Im going to get slate title, hopefully today.

[Freshover9000]

I have a few questions and topics I need help with. (i had a whole thing typed out and boswer refreshed -_-) So ill get to the point.

So I measured this morning, for my 20gal tank, I'll need 29 1/2 by 12, 1/4 thick.
-Is slate the preferred tile?
I'm changing to tile from carpet do to heat control and cleaner.
I have a UTH and CHE to heat up the tank.
Do i place the UTH(new one of course) under the tile or do I keep it under the tank?
-How long will it take to warm up to preferred temp? I have a Jumpstart on the UTH and dimmer on the CHE.
-Where do i place the termo probif i get tile?
Also have 40watt day and night bulbs for light, they really dont add to ground heat, slight air temp.
-I've been hearing about puting sand or sealant in the cracks/edges of the tile, is this necessary? I'm just not grasping the idea, due to I don't have the tile today(hopefully getting today). Can i just use the carpet to fill the spaces?
-I'm also having Moist/Humid hide issues. I currently have Zilla Decor Rock Lair Size Medium [http://a.co/1CfvVII] I think the buttom is too thick. The temps are good, but they fluctuate a lot. But I cant keep it moist, especially the entrance.
-Is the hide supposed to be humid that condensation is in the inside? if so that has not happen. I'm using sphagnum moss. half on heat mat half on cool side.
She sheds fine, the first time I had her and she shedded, i got to see the process. the next three time she did it all on her own, quick and easy. Ill see that she whiteish in the morning then later the night she back to normal.
But i plan on buying Exo Terra Gecko Cave for Reptiles [http://a.co/aCIlQiW] to see if it helps.

Thank you.

 

[GeckoFanboy]

Check your tank again. Use a tape measure to measure the "inside" of the tank floor. I have a 20 gallon long tank (30x12x12). The inside of my tank is 29 1/4" x 11 5/8". Whatever measurement you come up with (and be as precise as possible), subtract around 1/4" from the overall dimensions? Why? Because if the tile is a perfect fit, it might not go into the tank and lay on the floor...because of the silicone caulking around the floor bottom edges. If you have a bit of space once the tiles are on the floor, just take a piece of paper towel, roll it up tight, and cram it down into the cracks along the tile edge...this way no bugs can get down in the cracks and hide.

• Don't buy slate tile...buy 1/4" ceramic tile (that looks like rock).

• Your UTH should be on the outside bottom of the tank (NOT inside the tank). ZooMed UTH's have adhesive to do this easily. Just make sure you know exactly where you want to place it before you adhere it. The pads get damaged once you adhere them AND peel them back up (break the heating fibers inside of them).

• Once the pad is on the tank, it takes around 6-8 hours to come up to temp...when you first start using it.

• The thermo probe needs to be on the floor of his warm hide. If it doesn't rest there, you'll need to tape it. Most commercial hides have a hole in them to run the probe wire through.

• You don't need a night bulb AT ALL. Your gecko can see great in the dark. You can't, but he can.

• Get a 25 watt bulb for daylight, and set it on a timer to run 12 hours. Your gecko needs to know day and night. Make sure this bulb does not heat his tank. If you have a cold house, you can use a CHE bulb if the cool end of his tank drops too low.

• Sand can be messy as a sealant, and is a major pain when you need to clean the tank. Personally, I don't like sand or dirt in my tank at all. Take a single piece of paper towel, roll it up real tight, and wedge it down into any tile cracks along the edges.

• If your moist hide is drying up you either need to moisten it more often or you have too much heat in your tank. There is a debate about moist hide temps. Some folks keep their moist hides on the warm side of the tank, but I prefer mine right in the center. This way it's just room temp...not too warm, not too cool. Personally, I'm not a fan of moisture coating the entire inside of the moist hide. I don't want mold issues, and I don't want my gecko catching cold. I just have gotten in the habit of moistening my moist hide every night when I feed my gecko.

 

[Freshover9000]

Thank you so much for the info.
so followup comments and questions
-Ok so ill leave my pad where its at, that's good to know.
-so if I set my jumpstart thermostat to 92F it will get that temp in about 6 or so hours?
-prob for thermostat under/inside warm hide.
-the night bulb is a very dim "moonlight" bulb, almost like a black light. both day and night are low watt and dim.
-I have the CHE(i believe a 60W on a dimmer to as low as i can go without turning off) over the warm side right now, do i place in the middle if the cool side is too low?
-I remeasured this morning the bottom of the tank is 29 1/2 x 11 3/4. my issue is the opening at the top of the tank is 28 1/2 x 10 3/4. Should if just get 1/4 less then the top and cover the edges with carpet or paper towel. really don't ever let bug out roaming the tank. meal worms are in a bowl and crickets are fed in a smaller 10g tank.
-im going to try the new moist hide, current one is half/half warm and cool side (weird that the cool side(entrance) drys faster them the warm side.). new hide is flatter bottom and taller roof space. idk if that will help. it is also shallower.

 

[GeckoFanboy]

• If you set your JumpStart thermostat at 92°, when you first hook it up to the tank and plug it in, yes, it will take around 6-8 hours for the pad to come up to its desired running temps. Don't know why...that's just the way these pads are. Once that 6-8 hours period is past, you should be okay.

• Make sure the thermo probe tip is resting on the ceramic tile floor, in the very center of his warm hide. He'll be fine crawling over it and sleeping on it, just make sure it's ALWAYS touching the floor (tape it or whatever). If you have any questions about operating the thermostat, let me know. Just get it all setup, plug everything in, and wait 6-8 hours, then start checking your tank temps.

* I realize the moon bulb is like a black light and very dim, BUT it's also very HOT as well, and it will heat up the tank. If you were to use a dimmer with this light, you'd barely see it lit up at all, so what would be the point? I use to use one myself with my last gecko, and he had no problems roaming around the tank underneath it at night, but it heats the tank up, and you actually want the tank cooler at night somewhat. Meaning: the cool end of his tank at night should be in the low 70's. If it's not, you need to ditch that light.

• Like I said, you can always use a CHE bulb at night if his tank temp drops too low (which could be the case during cold winter months or when you run your AC during the summer). But he doesn't need light at night at all. You'll have to do some experimenting with your setup. Keep the lights away from the warm end of the tank. He has his UTH for heat on that end and that's all he needs there. Here's what I've been doing: I have a double dome light fixture sitting over the cool end of his tank (it holds two bulbs on two different switches). In one socket I have a 25 watt bulb, this runs for 12 hours during the day on a timer - I have it adjusted so that it's dimmed down to the point that the cool end of his tank is around 75-77° during the day. When this 25 watt light shuts off at 6:00PM, the CHE bulb turns on (I don't use a "lighted" bulb at night). The room goes dark, and again, the CHE is hooked to a dimmer, and I have it set so that it's around 71-73° at night ON THE COOL END. Some nights I don't need the CHE at all, and the only heat source in the tank is his UTH. The CHE should ONLY be used if the cool side is too low.

• Don't worry about the "opening/mouth" measurement of the tank, LOL. Just worry about the floor and subtracting 1/4" inch from the overall measurements you come up with. This is important, otherwise the tiles could fit too tight, making them hard to put in and remove for cleaning. Your going to "angle" the tiles into the tank VERY CAREFULLY when you place them, one at a time, so you don't drop them or smack the glass hard. Start at one end and work your way across the tank. You can put a single layer of paper towels under the tiles to cushion them, if you're worried about the glass. Be VERY, VERY careful with this and take your time.

• When you pick the tiles you want at Lowes, you will have to do the measuring/math for the guy cutting it. Take a tape measure with you. Tell him that after he cuts those tiles, that when they are butted together, they need to be exactly what you asked for, if not, he'll have to cut it again. Otherwise, you'll take it home and it won't fit right. The 1/4" tiles you're going to want to use on your tank will come in 11.75" squares (I don't believe they are 12"??), and will have to be cut accordingly. Just check the tile sizes when you get to Lowes with a tape measure. For a 20 gallon long tank, you'll need 3 of these large tiles. This is where you'll need to do your math for the cutting. You should pay no more than $6-$7 for this.

 

[Freshover9000]

so 29 1/4 and 11 1/2 should be good? i would really hate to good back home today to remeasure. i have two jobs i work back to back, i hardly get a day off. my first job is just and internship, so i can cut off a few hours earlly to give me time to get to lowes and set up before work. i guess i can remeasure tonight and cut out tomorrow. thanks for all the info.

 

[GeckoFanboy]

You just need to double check the EXACT measurements of your tank floor and subtract 1/4" from the overall measurement that you come up with. Don't go by my measurements, as every tank is slightly different.

I just bought a new 20 gallon long tank lastweek. I bought it at PetSmart (All Living Things is the brand). Anyway, it's 30x12x12. My overall tile size ended up being 11 5/8" x 29 1/4". I went to Lowes a couple days ago, picked out my 1/4" tiles, and had them cut. Here is what they look like laying in my tank:



You want just a smidge of space left, as this will make it easier to place and remove the tiles when needed. Just take a piece of paper towel, roll it up tightly, and shove it down in the crack. I pushed my tiles against the front of the tank, and filled the gap on the back wall with paper towel, seen here:

 

[Freshover9000]

thanks for the pics. now is the tile going to give the gecko good grip? i a guess they gave you 3 tiles, that will be a easy way to get it in. i was thinking they give you a slab tile the size you need.

 

[GeckoFanboy]

Trust me, as long as you go with a ceramic that is sort of a synthetic rock/marble surface, your gecko will have no problems walking around and getting a good grip with his feet. They have ceramic tile that almost looks like slate too. Just don't buy the shiny/smooth/glassy/glossy ceramic tile - you DON'T want that at all. They have an entire aisle of tiles. Just walk down it and figure out what you want. They don't have tile slabs to fit an entire 20 gallon tank, and because of the lip on the mouth you'd probably have a hard time getting it into the tank anyway...that is why it has to be done in sections.

This is the easiest substrate to keep clean. I've done repti-carpet and paper towels, and I can vouch that tile is the easiest to clean and maintain. When your gecko poops on it, just take a wet/warm paper towel and clean up that area of the floor. It's easy as pie.

 

[C. Don]

I'm new to leos and have been keeping other reptiles so I have some experience but the substrate, heating, and lighting issues are so confusing. I keep reading all kinds of conflicting issues. I'm simply trying to do the right thing to ensure my gecko is well cared for. Are all these issues with substrate personal opinions or facts? Same with lighting.

 

[GeckoFanboy]

Nothing is set in stone, since everyone has a different size tank, different substrates, different lighting setups, different room temps. Basically, you need to sift through all the info, and narrow down what works best for you. Opinions...facts...there's a fine blurry line between them. What works for one person and their gecko might not work perfectly for the next guy. Read up as much as you can, and make logical decisions based upon your own setup and needs. What I've written above, works for me and my gecko.

When you're not sure...come here to the forum and ask specific questions.
What is it you are having problems with? What are your questions?

 

[C. Don]

UTH is important I got that but air temp of the habitat seems un certain. I've heard some say important just to have belly heat and no need to heat with basking or UVB other say do both. If my UTH temp probe reads 88 deg is it OK not to have overhead heat room temp 75 deg?

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

I'm new to leos and have been keeping other reptiles so I have some experience but the substrate, heating, and lighting issues are so confusing. I keep reading all kinds of conflicting issues. I'm simply trying to do the right thing to ensure my gecko is well cared for. Are all these issues with substrate personal opinions or facts? Same with lighting.

Welcome aboard!

Please take what works from this thread. BUT afterwards begin your own New Thread to avoid mixing up your info with the OP.

Click: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/leopard-geckos-husbandry-housing-and-heating/

• Then press blue + Post New Thread button right at the top left.
• Type how GU can help.
• Then scroll down a little and press the blue button: Submit New Thread.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

UTH is important I got that but air temp of the habitat seems un certain. I've heard some say important just to have belly heat and no need to heat with basking or UVB other say do both. If my UTH temp probe reads 88 deg is it OK not to have overhead heat room temp 75 deg?

/\ /\ /\

Please begin your own thread. Do you see how?

 

[GeckoFanboy]

Last response, as Elizabeth said, we're hi-jacking the OP (so maybe start a new thread with all your concerns).

The warm hide needs to have a thermostat probe on the center of its floor. If it won't lay on the floor then you need to tape it down or however else you wish to accomplish this. Your geckos warm hide thermostat should be set around 91-92° (I have mine at 91°). Thermostats tend to go a little above their designated setting (as is normal). If you set it at 91°, the temp on his warm hide floor will fluctuate from 87-92° all day long (24/7), this is good. I tend to like the cool end of the tank to be around mid-upper 70's during the day, and low 70's at night. How do I accomplish this? I have a double dome light on the cool end. Each socket has a separate switch and they are both hooked to dimmer switches (which I bought at Lowes). The day bulb is a 25 watt bulb, that provides mostly light and very little heat. It's only there for my gecko to "know" daytime hours...this light is on a timer for 12 hours. When it shuts off, my CHE bulb (in the other socket of the double dome fixture) comes on. I dim this way back only to balance the temps on the cool end at night, as sometimes the room the gecko is in gets cold during the winter, and cold during the summer using AC. With summer approaching, and since we're not running the AC yet, but we've had a couple warm days...some days I turn the CHE completely off at night because his tank temps are perfect without it.

Chances are your air temps are okay. If the room your gecko is in is a near constant 73° than you’re fine. Don’t worry about air temps. But then again, do you keep a freezing cold house? Do you not have AC during the summer? These are factors that can change your setup...things that are going to affect your particular needs to get things right in your tank.

Just look at it this way…you need the warm hide floor to be between 87-92° constantly. And you need the cool end of the tank to stay in the 70’s. Your job now is to figure out a way to accomplish this based on things you’ve read here. Everybody’s different.

 

[Freshover9000]

Thank you for all your help. im measured one last time this morning, best measurement i got was 29 1/2 x 11 3/4, i'll take off 1/4 if each side and get that cut. now will she be ok with being in the tank while it heats up? or should i set of a temporary tank tank? i have her old 10 gal with heating mat, the only issue is i cant put the thermostat on that tank. i could just set up the CHE in the tile tank and that will help for the time being.

 

[GeckoFanboy]

I'm going to have to do the same thing you're doing as soon as I get everything for my new tank (still waiting on a couple of things). Just remember, the new pad (on the new tank) is going to take around 6 hours to come up to consistent temp. So, actually if you wanted to, you could just get the new tank setup COMPLETELY...hook the new pad up to it...plug it in WITHOUT the thermostat for now...wait 6 hours for it to heat up nicely...unplug the thermostat from your old tank...hook it up to the new tank...and you're done. If it's too warm initially, as soon as you hook the thermostat up it's going to make the temp drop fairly quickly. At least that's what I am planning on doing. This way Scooby goes directly from one tank to another without sitting in a box or something...stressing him out. He's going to stress out enough when I move him into a new tank. Captive reptiles hate change.

 

[Freshover9000]

right now i have her in a 20gal with carpet and all to goods. i still have her 10 gal i use for feeding, with old mat on it. So my question was, do i put her in the old tank till the tile is warmed up or will she be ok? i could do want you said and put the thermo on the old tank, to keep it ideal temp, then when i get home tonight switch her and the thermo over.

 

[GeckoFanboy]

LOL, reread what I wrote above. I think I've already answered your question.
Let the UTH on the new tank heat up for 6 hours WITHOUT the thermostat attached to it. When six hours have gone by, unattach the thermostat from your old tank, hook it to the new tank UTH, move your gecko into the new tank and you're done. It doesn't get any easier than that.