tail rot?
- Thread starter HeKai
- Start date
GeckoManiac91
New member
maybe I should start a new thread.... what does it mean in terms of husbandry if your gecko tries to climb out? His temps are really good right now in prep for when he goes on antibiotics. He has a moist hide and a dry hide, water and food. This more typical of him, but I don't get it AND all things considered, he is not coming out to explore.
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Please keep all your questions right on this thread
What did the vet say about Akinna's tail?
Sounds like you really don't have much of a cool end. Any chance of upgrading to a larger enclosure?
You mention Akinna's cage is 51 x 28 x 32. A suggested minimum size for a leo cage is 76 x 31 x 31 cm. It is difficult to keep a good temperature gradient in a tank that is just 51 cm long. Ideal not to go over 31 cm high. A taller cage will be harder to heat and leos often don't climb much.
Is getting a thermostat an option? This will keep temperatures in your leos cage much more stable. It is really a "requirement".
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Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Be careful with the wax worms...twice a week is a lot actually. They are fatty and are really only suggested for fattening up a gecko. I've only fed them to my Leo once and it was just for a little birthday treat Hehe
I would skip waxworms entirely. Besides being unhealthy, leos can become addicted to waxworms and want to eat nothing else but waxies. Just like humans eating chocolate as GeckoManiac91 is suggesting
.For "treats" and variety hornworms and silkworms are good choices. Those are higher in fat than crickets.
I believe what goes around comes back to us.
Saw the vet today. Not sure if there is an infection or not so Akinna starts antibiotics on Friday. I get to try to get him to eat before then, otherwise we have an issue getting antibiotics into him. So worrisome having an ill animal
Thanks for your help, though, guys!
I have only given Baytril shots/injections one time to a different species of gecko. I know from assist feeding that getting a gecko to open his/her mouth can be a challenge :-(.
A thin dowel brushed across the lips or maybe the tip of your feeding instrument can entice leos/geckos to open their mouths. Just be really gentle.
Click right here:
How to force feed a Leopard Gecko - YouTube
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Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Did Akinna have a negative experience with crickets? Fed one too large?
Did you see my post #25 here?
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
What did the vet say about Akinna's tail?
***When you pulled off the skin from the tail tip, did it seem like stuck shed or was it pink/raw underneath? Maybe infection set in?
***Can you get some very small hornworms? Perhaps Akinna will eat those while taking the Flagyl?
***77 F overall fine at night
***Good taking the temp inside the warm dry cave where the heat is naturally trapped
***Best to have 3 hides: warm dry, warm moist, cool dry. Warm moist hide assists not only in shedding but also in keeping your leo hydrated.
***Air temp on warm end too cool at 77 F. Consider getting an overhead dome and bulb for additional air heat during the day. Heat drops off rapidly as it rises. Leos need warm air too.
***Rheostat's will not shut off when the temperature goes too high...like over 93F. Thermostats will turn off. Thermostats take some of the worry out of heating.
***What did Akinna weigh at the vet?
Gutloading the Feeders versus Feeding the Feeders 24/7
The term gutloading causes some confusion. Feed your feeders a nutritious regular diet all the time to build strong feeder bodies. Then only feed a special GUTLOAD product to the crickets 36-48 hours prior to feeding the crickets to your geckos. T-REX Calcium Plus Food for Crickets is the only proven gutload food as of July 2013. Especially at gutloading time be sure to provide crickets with a damp paper towel for moisture but no fruits or vegetables because the crickets will consume fruits and veggies preferentially over the calcium-enriched diet.
Maybe, top off the crickets by lightly dusting with a multivitamin containing D3/vitamin A acetate no more than 1x weekly and according to the directions on the container.
***When you pulled off the skin from the tail tip, did it seem like stuck shed or was it pink/raw underneath? Maybe infection set in?
***Can you get some very small hornworms? Perhaps Akinna will eat those while taking the Flagyl?
***77 F overall fine at night
***Good taking the temp inside the warm dry cave where the heat is naturally trapped
***Best to have 3 hides: warm dry, warm moist, cool dry. Warm moist hide assists not only in shedding but also in keeping your leo hydrated.
***Air temp on warm end too cool at 77 F. Consider getting an overhead dome and bulb for additional air heat during the day. Heat drops off rapidly as it rises. Leos need warm air too.
***Rheostat's will not shut off when the temperature goes too high...like over 93F. Thermostats will turn off. Thermostats take some of the worry out of heating.
***What did Akinna weigh at the vet?
Gutloading the Feeders versus Feeding the Feeders 24/7
The term gutloading causes some confusion. Feed your feeders a nutritious regular diet all the time to build strong feeder bodies. Then only feed a special GUTLOAD product to the crickets 36-48 hours prior to feeding the crickets to your geckos. T-REX Calcium Plus Food for Crickets is the only proven gutload food as of July 2013. Especially at gutloading time be sure to provide crickets with a damp paper towel for moisture but no fruits or vegetables because the crickets will consume fruits and veggies preferentially over the calcium-enriched diet.
Maybe, top off the crickets by lightly dusting with a multivitamin containing D3/vitamin A acetate no more than 1x weekly and according to the directions on the container.
XoVictoryXo
New member
how long has he been off insects? get some liquid nutrients like reptaboost or oxbow, or see if the vet will prescribe you some. when Rex was on antibiotics he had ZERO appetite and the liquid nutrients helped him maintain weight until he went off and then he was eating again.
The vet said that part of the tail was something necrosis. Later conversation indicated that the tail probably got pinched and cut of blood supply.
Keep in mind the skin was already off and it was raw underneath but not pink.
I might be able to get small horn worms, I wonder what couriering will cost on those
Will work on bigger tank and three hides-the plan was to trade one of my thirty gallons with a friend for a 20 gallon once I got my new enclosure ready for my ball. It is not going to happen though so in the lookout for a 20 gallon sooner. Will have space for three hides. As a heads up, he has never had trouble shedding and seems well hydrated, so that is a relief (or he was, not sure about now).
Will do on dome or otherwise. I have some for my snakes so will borrow from them for the time being.
Thanks for the clarification on rheostats-I know. I manually monitor temps-if ambient temps change I adjust the rheostat. Was planning on getting one or two thermostats this summer. It seems it is better to pay for quality over quantity. Will check out your recommendations but I have not heard good things about lower end models. I found some vivarium electronics models for $86 each but shipping is an issue. Comes down to the hornworms too. I actually don't have a lot of money.
Akinna had lost 4 grams, 41 grams I think. He said a couple of grams from lack of fluids and a couple for loss of tail. I am still worried. Tail looks worse today so think I will call later and see if the vet can prepare the antibiotics sooner. Might not be able to ....
Keep in mind the skin was already off and it was raw underneath but not pink.
I might be able to get small horn worms, I wonder what couriering will cost on those
Will work on bigger tank and three hides-the plan was to trade one of my thirty gallons with a friend for a 20 gallon once I got my new enclosure ready for my ball. It is not going to happen though so in the lookout for a 20 gallon sooner. Will have space for three hides. As a heads up, he has never had trouble shedding and seems well hydrated, so that is a relief (or he was, not sure about now).
Will do on dome or otherwise. I have some for my snakes so will borrow from them for the time being.
Thanks for the clarification on rheostats-I know. I manually monitor temps-if ambient temps change I adjust the rheostat. Was planning on getting one or two thermostats this summer. It seems it is better to pay for quality over quantity. Will check out your recommendations but I have not heard good things about lower end models. I found some vivarium electronics models for $86 each but shipping is an issue. Comes down to the hornworms too. I actually don't have a lot of money.
Akinna had lost 4 grams, 41 grams I think. He said a couple of grams from lack of fluids and a couple for loss of tail. I am still worried. Tail looks worse today so think I will call later and see if the vet can prepare the antibiotics sooner. Might not be able to ....
Well, well, well. Akinna (my leo) decided he might eat a little and was sitting in a shallow hide. Then he came out, without his tail!
I am hoping all is good but have no way of knowing what a tail should or should not look like once detached. Mostly pink, but there is white showing-infection?glands? Hopefully when I go pick up his antibiotics tomorrow I will have a change to talk to the vet.
Would pictures be appropriate here?
I am hoping all is good but have no way of knowing what a tail should or should not look like once detached. Mostly pink, but there is white showing-infection?glands? Hopefully when I go pick up his antibiotics tomorrow I will have a change to talk to the vet.
Would pictures be appropriate here?
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Well, well, well. Akinna (my leo) decided he might eat a little and was sitting in a shallow hide. Then he came out, without his tail!
I am hoping all is good but have no way of knowing what a tail should or should not look like once detached. Mostly pink, but there is white showing-infection?glands? Hopefully when I go pick up his antibiotics tomorrow I will have a change to talk to the vet.
Would pictures be appropriate here?
Definitely post pictures.
This sounds like progress for Akinna!
It is very important to keep the wound clean and DRY. I recommend NOT using any type of ointment.
Best to spend more for a thermostat if you can. Many of the thermostats I list in the Leo Caresheet can vary + or - 3 degrees F.
Click here:
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...feeding-issues/68585-hornworm-guidelines.html
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Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
What variability do the thermostats have in the $100 range?
graphic photos for those who might be squeemish
So the big white globular thing really concerns me, but I just don't know at this point. Thanks for the advice. He is in the dry hide, with overhead warmth. Unfortunately it is set up with a red bulb and I have the surface temp constant at about 88, Maybe I should switch to the ceramic heater for the night so the red doesn't bug him... not sure. I am debating whether to replace all the paper towel or not. It was cleaned yesterday, I think, but still, cleaner is better. But so is reducing stress. Any recommendations in this regard?
So the big white globular thing really concerns me, but I just don't know at this point. Thanks for the advice. He is in the dry hide, with overhead warmth. Unfortunately it is set up with a red bulb and I have the surface temp constant at about 88, Maybe I should switch to the ceramic heater for the night so the red doesn't bug him... not sure. I am debating whether to replace all the paper towel or not. It was cleaned yesterday, I think, but still, cleaner is better. But so is reducing stress. Any recommendations in this regard?
GeckoManiac91
New member
In my opinion a CHE is always the best choice for night time heating