tail rot?

[Elizabeth Freer]

So the big white globular thing really concerns me, but I just don't know at this point. Thanks for the advice. He is in the dry hide, with overhead warmth. Unfortunately it is set up with a red bulb and I have the surface temp constant at about 88, Maybe I should switch to the ceramic heater for the night so the red doesn't bug him... not sure. I am debating whether to replace all the paper towel or not. It was cleaned yesterday, I think, but still, cleaner is better. But so is reducing stress. Any recommendations in this regard?View attachment 24165View attachment 24166View attachment 24167View attachment 24168

I do not know what the white globular mass is or the gray mass next to it. (Bring photos to vet.) Don't know how that would affect the vet's recommendation for antibiotics either. Is the end that is on the Akinna free from these other masses?

Hmm, I am still researching. So can't say off the top of my head... had a few other things occupying my mind lately. I would only use ointment if the vet recommended it. I think the idea is that if we do antibiotics, they would be oral. So the tail should heal up on its own.

The tail should heal up on its own. Pretty soon you will see a small bud, the beginnings of the new tail end.

Any ointment applied to the tail has a good chance of being licked by Akinna.

In my opinion a CHE is always the best choice for night time heating

Besides a CHE, Exo Terra (and Zoo Med) have Night-Glo Moonlight bulbs that come in a wide range of wattages: 15 watt - 75 watts. Those give a bit of light so that you can see.

The sooner you can move him to a larger tank the better. I think doing so would reduce his stress, because after the Flagyl, he could have proper warm and cool ends.

 

[HeKai]

The end on Akinna seems to have some of the white, hard to tell as I don't want to pick him up or move him around. I will call the vet in the morning and see if he wants to see him again. I will take the photos and the old tail for sure but not sure if he will have the chance to see me as I don't have an appointment. It was hard enough getting in last minute this week. However, considering the circumstances, I think they might be able to squeeze me in as long as I don't ask too many questions!

Flagyl is the antibiotic I am assuming. As an aside, this vet told me that polysporin was to placate the masses or some such-there really isn't a lot of antibiotic in it. Not something I would likely use anyway. But considering these other masses, he still might get that Flagyl I might have to force feed too as I am positive he will dislike the taste. I am going to see about buying a tank (wish people would not sell used for close to new prices). I can't very well work on my ball's enclosure (lots of electric sanding) while Akinna is convalescing.

 

[HeKai]

So yes, white (scary) mass is here. As is one of my hairs I see.

He is in the moist hide, should I remove it then?

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

View attachment 24169

So yes, white (scary) mass is here. As is one of my hairs I see.

He is in the moist hide, should I remove it then?

Since the white mass is also in the part of the tail that is still attached to Akinna, I would ask the vet to squeeze you in for an appointment. That is an emergency-type issue, because the mass is accessible now that the "wound' is fresh.

Don't remove the moist hide. Don't think that humidity would interfere with the tail end healing. Just keep the tail itself dry.

 

[HeKai]

First the dentist for me, then the vet for him. Should be fun. I am taking a heat pad, they must have somewhere I can plug it in in the dentists office. Hopefully it isn't too stressful, the vet couldn't get me in later. I think he is on the mend, tho. I hope.

 

[HeKai]

So dentist was understanding and let me postpone my cleaning, so no dentist, only vet in about an hour or so. YEAH! And there are 20 gallon tanks available. Kills me, there is an exoTerra terrarium for cheap but I have nowhere to store it and it is 18inches square, not big enough for a terrestrial species!

Thanks for you support and good wishes to my little guy!

 

[GeckoManiac91]

So dentist was understanding and let me postpone my cleaning, so no dentist, only vet in about an hour or so. YEAH! And there are 20 gallon tanks available. Kills me, there is an exoTerra terrarium for cheap but I have nowhere to store it and it is 18inches square, not big enough for a terrestrial species!

Thanks for you support and good wishes to my little guy!

Best of luck! Be sure to keep us updated

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

So dentist was understanding and let me postpone my cleaning, so no dentist, only vet in about an hour or so. YEAH! And there are 20 gallon tanks available. Kills me, there is an exoTerra terrarium for cheap but I have nowhere to store it and it is 18inches square, not big enough for a terrestrial species!

Thanks for you support and good wishes to my little guy!

Good enough, HeKai.

The new tank should measure: 30 x 12 x 12 inches (76 x 31 x 31 cm). This is a minimum.

 

[HeKai]

really? I already have one lined up that is 29.5 inches. That half inch will make a difference? It is a 25 gallon at 29.5X16.5(H)X12. AT $40 it is a decent deal.

As a suggestion (might not be easy to change) in the care section could it say that for heat gradient the tank should be 30 inches long at least AND if you have a larger gecko, 4 times its length should also be a minimum? Just so those of us with smaller specimens know to get a 3 foot long tank (some 20 gallons are only 24 inches long).

Thanks so much!

Ceri

 

[GeckoManiac91]

really? I already have one lined up that is 29.5 inches. That half inch will make a difference? It is a 25 gallon at 29.5X16.5(H)X12. AT $40 it is a decent deal.

As a suggestion (might not be easy to change) in the care section could it say that for heat gradient the tank should be 30 inches long at least AND if you have a larger gecko, 4 times its length should also be a minimum? Just so those of us with smaller specimens know to get a 3 foot long tank (some 20 gallons are only 24 inches long).

Thanks so much!

Ceri

The half of an inch will not make a difference. It is slightly taller though than needed however I think it will work

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

really? I already have one lined up that is 29.5 inches. That half inch will make a difference? It is a 25 gallon at 29.5X16.5(H)X12. AT $40 it is a decent deal.

As a suggestion (might not be easy to change) in the care section could it say that for heat gradient the tank should be 30 inches long at least AND if you have a larger gecko, 4 times its length should also be a minimum? Just so those of us with smaller specimens know to get a 3 foot long tank (some 20 gallons are only 24 inches long).

Thanks so much!

Ceri

Ceri ~

That tank will be excellent!

Will think about tweaking the wording later tonight. No problem at all to amend it to something that works. I appreciate your suggestions.

 

[HeKai]

I will get a bit of sand (for zen garden on my deck, don't worry), a water filter (waterfall one day for one of my snakes) and some artificial plants in the deal. Thank you so much Elizabeth for your encouragement. I did start reading other posts and not all little ones make it. I know it is us humans who are attached, but it still breaks my heart.

How many reptiles do you have? Any mammals or birds or other? Wrong thread I guess.... you don't need to answer.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

You are very welcome, Ceri. I try to do my best. Always new stuff to learn.

Yes, it's true. The posts for assistance on these forums are sometimes too late to help the gecko :*(.

 

[HeKai]

Well, as I found out, things can happen pretty unexpectedly and rapidly too.

I posted some questions about feeder insects on the feeding forum. Trying to determine sizing Just if you have time to look it over (as you seem to know a great deal).

I guess it is getting close to Akinna's first antibiotic doese. Letting him sleep as we left here about 12:30 and didn't get back till 5. You will be happy to know I got a nice 25 gallon tank. Perhaps too high but a ceramic heater in one of my dome lights should serve nicely. I am also going to post some questions in substrates as well.

My desire to drink beer and play video games (yes, I am female) has been crushed by my poor gaming abilities (stuck) so I think I will do some research on thermostats instead. If I find anything of importance I will start a thread or PM you.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Well, as I found out, things can happen pretty unexpectedly and rapidly too.

I posted some questions about feeder insects on the feeding forum. Trying to determine sizing Just if you have time to look it over (as you seem to know a great deal).

I guess it is getting close to Akinna's first antibiotic doese. Letting him sleep as we left here about 12:30 and didn't get back till 5. You will be happy to know I got a nice 25 gallon tank. Perhaps too high but a ceramic heater in one of my dome lights should serve nicely. I am also going to post some questions in substrates as well.

Did you need to travel that far to visit your vet today? Did she say anything about the extra masses still attached to Akinna's stub of a tail?

Textured ceramic, porcelain, or slate tile is great for a substrate. No thicker than 1/4 inch. Easy to clean, looks good, great heat conductor, permanent.

My desire to drink beer and play video games (yes, I am female) has been crushed by my poor gaming abilities (stuck) so I think I will do some research on thermostats instead. If I find anything of importance I will start a thread or PM you.

Thanks for everything, Ceri.

Really best to continue on this thread, Ceri. Much easier than looking here and there. Then I for sure will not miss your info.

 

[HeKai]

alrighty... except I thought we were supposed to stay on topic?

Well, one answer may have already come. Wanted to know about sizing of prey for leos. Someone said that it should be no bigger than the space between his eyes. Funny since he used to eat supers no problem. Refuses them now so that is moot. I emailed the localish breeder of silks and horns requesting small sizes and mentioned how small my leo is and she says she can get littler ones. I am thinking 1-2 cm.... hopefully he will eat these as they are more nutritious than meal worms. I also fired off an email to get a quote on shipping on phoenix worms (first I had heard of them on this forum). Though, it might cost far more to ship than the larvae themselves, we will see.

Otherwise, ideas for getting him to eat crickets. I don't know that he had a BAD experience, per se. Probably ate some that were too big. Certainly ate supers for months that were too big. He seems disinterested and if I hold the crickets up, he looks at them and then turns away as they wiggle their antennae. I do try and avoid them touching his nose but they invariably get him as he goes in to smell them.

Also wanted to know if you had heard anything about ZooMed excavator clay. Slate seems great (guess glass and stone both conduct heat) but I was hoping to have various levels (not too high) because this little guy LOVES to climb.

That was all

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

alrighty... except I thought we were supposed to stay on topic?

Topic is Akinna's Leo Husbandry.

Well, one answer may have already come. Wanted to know about sizing of prey for leos. Someone said that it should be no bigger than the space between his eyes. Funny since he used to eat supers no problem. Refuses them now so that is moot. I emailed the localish breeder of silks and horns requesting small sizes and mentioned how small my leo is and she says she can get littler ones. I am thinking 1-2 cm.... hopefully he will eat these as they are more nutritious than meal worms. I also fired off an email to get a quote on shipping on phoenix worms (first I had heard of them on this forum). Though, it might cost far more to ship than the larvae themselves, we will see.

Phoenix worms, also marketed in the USA as calciworms, are a hit and miss for leos and other geckos. At max they are only 3/4 inch long, so not really big enough for older leos. On the other hand, very small hornworms would probably work. The hornworms need to be kept at 55 F in order to slow down their growth.

Otherwise, ideas for getting him to eat crickets. I don't know that he had a BAD experience, per se. Probably ate some that were too big. Certainly ate supers for months that were too big. He seems disinterested and if I hold the crickets up, he looks at them and then turns away as they wiggle their antennae. I do try and avoid them touching his nose but they invariably get him as he goes in to smell them.

Have you tried cutting off the back legs of the crickets at the "knees" in order to slow them down and/or placing them in a short glass feeding dish?

Also wanted to know if you had heard anything about ZooMed excavator clay. Slate seems great (guess glass and stone both conduct heat) but I was hoping to have various levels (not too high) because this little guy LOVES to climb.

Make sure that there is a safe way down without falling.

That was all

Look for my replies between the lines above too.

Did you need to travel that far to visit your vet today? Did she say anything about the extra masses still attached to Akinna's stub of a tail?

Not heard anything particularly about Zoo Med Excavator Clay. Check in the DIY subforum as well as some of the posts following the main part of the Leo Caresheet for exemplary custom build especially for leos.

 

[GeckoManiac91]

Also wanted to know if you had heard anything about ZooMed excavator clay. Slate seems great (guess glass and stone both conduct heat) but I was hoping to have various levels (not too high) because this little guy LOVES to climb.

That was all

I know this question was directed towards Elizabeth however I've never heard of this Excavator Clay and decided to do research upon it. It sounds really cool!. The general idea of it is amazing, natural and realistic. Part of me worries of any chance of impaction and also just by doing some research for about 15minutes I came across mostly bad reviews (Some good of course) with users claiming it needs a lot more water than it said on the package, took 2 weeks to dry and that you need a lot of it to actually make anything. There were also some good reviews saying how its great for their animals to dig in, holds no odor and of course looks very well.

Sadly it costs a lot of money because of the amount of bags you will most likely need.
Just by thinking as well I'm sure bacteria must grow inside it? It holds moisture and water, its basically a breeding ground for bacteria I would think.
As great as it sounds and as wonderful I would think it is I personally wouldn't use it. If Elizabeth doesn't have experience with it then you may consider posting a thread about it in the substrate section or even the DIY forum?

 

[GeckoManiac91]

Oops, didn't know she answered

 

[HeKai]

yeah, I am about to go to that thread.