Leopard gecko not eating- possibly ovulation?

Meaningoflife42

New member
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Hello, my gecko has not eaten in a few weeks. Prior to that, she had eaten above normal for a week following a one month hunger strike. She is still active and fat. Do you believe she may be ovulating? I have not noticed such large hunger strikes before, except one matching the others in early August. She appears to have a larger width near the tail. Please advise. Am I just being overly worried?
General Information
Species of lizard: Leopqrd gecko, scientific name unk.
Gecko's name: Pinky
Morph: I believe hypo or baldy
Gender: female
Age:roughly 8, two previous owners so exact unknown.
Weight: 76 g
Total length: unknown, roughly 8 inches
Length of your reptile when you first acquired it: unknown, definitely around same.
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner): two previous owners
Captive bred or wild caught: captive

Vivarium
Enclosure dimensions (length x width x heighth): roughly 30x12x12
Cage (type, size): unknown type- 20 gallon long
Substrate provided: carpet
Types of hiding places provided: one humid hide/nest, one cool, one warm
Is there a humidity hide? location? Yes- on cool side
Please describe any other furnishings: plastic bush- calcium, food, and water dish
List recent changes in the environment, if any: nest bedding changed from paper to moss- after hunger strike began

Lighting-
Artificial lighting- bedroom light
Incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s): none for cage
Fluorescent (tube bulbs):none for cage
Access to ambient daylight from a distant window: yes

Heating
Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? No
What type and brand of thermometer (digital with probe, temperature gun, LCD strip, analog (circle), combo digital thermometer/hygrometer, stainless steel aquarim type, other): temp gun- zoo med
What is the ground temperature right on the substrate under the warm dry hide: 96 degrees used to be higher
What is the air temperature on the warm end about 4 inches up from the ground: 84 deg
What is the air temperature on the cool end about 4 inches up from the ground: 73 deg
What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature (Under Tank Heater, heat light, ceramic heat emitter, Flexwatt heat tape, hot rock, other): 2 uths, one controlled CHE
Ventilation space for your UTH by elevating the tank above the shelf (some UTHs come with sticky feet for the tank corners):yes
Are you using a thermostat(s)?: for CHE
Which hide does she/he spend most of her time? Mainly cool at day and warm at night
Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much?
No
Humidity
Is the humidity measured? No
Humidity range: N/A

Diet
Insects and worms, list type:mealworms, superworms occasionally, and waxworms as treat- dislikes crickets
Regular diet fed to the insects and worms: mainly greens
Are the insects and worms formally “gutloaded” 1-2 days prior to feeding off to your gecko? If so with? Usually with greens
How often do you feed your gecko? Not eating- previously every other day
Please list any supplements (with brand names) used. How are they given and how often? Repti cal calcium with d3 left in dish until plain is getting shipped (until about tuesday) occasionally fluker's repta boost- food dusted with either half the time
What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both? See above
Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without? See above
Multivitamins (include brand name)? See above
Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet: none

General Health
If your gecko is sick, please describe the signs and how long your gecko has been showing these signs: possibly ovulating- hunger strike- believe pink lumps on side of belly (not sure if eggs) abnormal defecation and I believe shiny nose and mouth (possibly from birth and not infection$ one month followed by week normal followed by 2 weeks
Is your gecko’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased? Normal
Is your gecko’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased? Severe deceease
Have you noticed any of the following?
Weight (loss or gain): no
Discharge from the eyes or nose: possible shiny nose/mouth- believed to be scales and not mucus
Increased breathing rate or effort:unk- not believed
Change in the droppings: more green- most recent had large white area possibly due to recent shed- a little possible mucus
Urates
---white or yellowish:yellowish- recent white I believe but may not be urate- see pic
---size of urates as compared to size of feces:large due to relative lack of feces
Abnormal skin color or shedding: possibly a little dull but not related to shed
Parasites on the skin or in the feces: not believed
Weakness: not noticed

Previous problems and/or illnesses: see top- two previous strikes

Other Critters in Same Cage or in Household: no other pets- other pet questions all no
List other animals that are kept in the same cage:
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months):
Are any of your other pets ill?
Pictures of poop and gecko attached as well as very bad underside view. Please advise- pretty sure parents will deny vet visit. When should I start to worry? This is the best quality photo available to me. Finally, I have an additional question. Is it safe to add the repta boost directly to her drinking water? Thanks!
 

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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Hi ~

Thanks for completing GU's Health Questionnaire right from the geck-go!

Hopefully someone else can stop by this thread to offer more suggestions.

Diet
Insects and worms, list type:mealworms, superworms occasionally, and waxworms as treat- dislikes crickets
Regular diet fed to the insects and worms: mainly greens
Are the insects and worms formally “gutloaded” 1-2 days prior to feeding off to your gecko? If so with? Usually with greens
How often do you feed your gecko? Not eating- previously every other day
Please list any supplements (with brand names) used. How are they given and how often? Repti cal calcium with d3 left in dish until plain is getting shipped (until about tuesday) occasionally fluker's repta boost- food dusted with either half the time

1. No need to add Repta+Boost to the diet at all. Your leo is of adequate weight.

2. Something is off. The feces should be dark brown, not yellow. Should be well-formed, the size and shape of about 2 tic tacs.

3. Can someone hold the leo or gently press her up to the glass so we can view the belly?

4. Remove the calcium with D3 from the cage right away. Chance of D3 overdosage. :-(

5. Don't keep any supplement including plain calcium in the vivarium at all. For reasons why check posts #22 and #48 following the Basic Guidelines in my Leo Care Sheet.

6. Would switch to mainly crickets, few mealworms, no superworms, no waxworms. Genuine Phoenix worms, hornworms, and silkworms are good.

7.. This might be helpful: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...ckets-blaptica-dubia-hornworms-silkworms.html
 
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Completeleopard

New member
Hello and welcome to gecko's unlimited, all questions regrading leopard geckos are welcome!

There are a few things that could be the reason your Leo isn't eating, as a few things in your husbandry is incorrect, here are my suggestions

Leos should not go on hunger strike for a month regardless of whether ovulating or not, this is worrying.
It is recommended to put your moist hide on the warm end of the tank.
Your hot temps are too high, will post recommended temps later in this.
It is recommended to have a thermostat for uth heaters as well, these help keep temps correct, reduces fire hazards and saves electricity.
Please remove d3 from the tank, Leo's do not know when they have consumed to much d3 and this can cause complications, use only phosphorus free calcium in the tank without d3
It is recommended to feed your feeders a varied diet that includes protein, a good source of protein for mealworm and crickets is alfalfa hay. Use carrots as moisture source for them.

It is hard to tell from the pictures if she's ovulating.

Reccomded temps for Leo's from Elizabeth's care sheet:

Recommended temperatures for all leos regardless of size
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end
 

Meaningoflife42

New member
Thanks for the help- will try to get belly pics later. I'll try to get other feeders, but I'm not sure if she'll eat them. As for the thermostat, I'll try to get it. Any suggestions on where to acquire silkworms and phoenix worms?
 
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Completeleopard

New member
If you cool the crickets down in a refrigerator for 5 minutes that should slow them down, if not use tweezers, but yes they are hard to catch! Do you mean easy to catch yourself or for your Leo's?
 

Completeleopard

New member
Oh, in that case still try refrigerator, or just keep them held in the tweezers for your Leo but it depends if you want him hunting more, the only way to slow them down successfully is to remove the long back legs which are usually called the hopper legs
 

Meaningoflife42

New member
Okay, things just got serious. Anyone seen this before? Ever? I've heard of baby geckos doing this whenever they just shed, but this seems to be common whenever she hasn't eaten. Could it be her fat reserves possibly? I'm posting a link to an article regarding geckos- scroll down to see various poop types. The one with pinworms looks like a match, do the symptoms line up with pinworms?http://sleepydeegeckos.webs.com/health.htm#Faeces
 

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Elizabeth Freer

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Thanks for the help- will try to get belly pics later. I'll try to get other feeders, but I'm not sure if she'll eat them. As for the thermostat, I'll try to get it. Any suggestions on where to acquire silkworms and phoenix worms?

Best to take belly pictures as soon as you can.

A Hydrofarm MTPRTC is a good thermostat. It has a digital readout and a small metal probe. Amazon.com carries those for about $35.

Click here for one source for online worms: http://www.mulberryfarms.com/Care-Raising-Tips-FAQ-12.html

The feeder care sheet I linked in post #2 gives you comprehensive cricket care advice and tips for other feeders too.

How would you recommend making the crickets easy to catch? I am not comfortable with taking their legs off, anything else?

Removing the cricket's hopper legs from the knees down is the only way to slow down crickets. The crickets will still be able to walk around. If you use some clear glass feeding dishes with straight sides they will also be easier for your leo to catch!

I use a tablespoon size kitchen measuring spoon to help catch crickets from my cricket bin.


Okay, things just got serious. Anyone seen this before? Ever? I've heard of baby geckos doing this whenever they just shed, but this seems to be common whenever she hasn't eaten. Could it be her fat reserves possibly? I'm posting a link to an article regarding geckos- scroll down to see various poop types. The one with pinworms looks like a match, do the symptoms line up with pinworms?Leopard Gecko Health and Problems

:feedback: Did you remove the D3 calcium from the enclosure?

The yellow feces are abnormal. If your leo has pinworms, they are contagious. :-( Medicine is needed to get rid of them. I would take a fecal sample to the vet right away!!! Instructions for collecting follow.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#2---Fecal Sample Collection Procedure
Just phoned my exotics vet for his recommendation:

1. Place a piece of clean plastic where your leo usually poops. If your gecko poops somewhere else, take the poop to the vet anyway. Some poop is better than no poop! (Thanks to TheOneBlueGecko - 25 July 2011)

2. As soon as your gecko has passed some poop and urates, but without physically touching the sample, place the feces and urates directly onto a clean plastic bottle cap. (Vet has fecal sample containers if you can stop by first.)

3. Then place the bottle cap with fecal sample directly into a plastic ziploc bag. (Do NOT use paper towels or newspaper because those will absorb some of the feces necessary for a proper culture.)

4. Refrigerate this sample...unless you are taking the sample to your vet immediately. Do NOT freeze it.

5. Take this fecal sample to your vet within 24 hours of collecting...the sooner the better!


[There are two types of fecals: direct smear and fecal float tests. For geckos, ask the vet whether both tests should be run.]

Click: http://www.wasatchexotic.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Fecal_Exams_for_Reptiles.pdf
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Hydrofarm MTPRTC is a good thermostat. It has a digital readout and a small metal probe. Amazon.com carries those for about $35.
 

Meaningoflife42

New member
Thanks for all the help- will contact a vet regarding a fecal. Hopefully we can take care of this. Also, took belly pics but didn't save by mistake- will try soon. I may have seen a little pink on the underside, but it may be just me. Finally, she exhibited the same symptoms on her previous hunger strikes- does that suggest parasites? When she is eating, her feces are normal. The calcium is out of the cage.
 
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Completeleopard

New member
The hunger strikes could be due to parasites or it could be due to other things like the stuff me and Elizabeth have suggested. but you need to be certain it isn't parasites so take a fecal to a vet and get it checked out. Until parasites are ruled out it's hard for us to keep giving you advice on husbandry! Good luck
 
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Completeleopard

New member
Are you using a type of sand mat substrate? If so after you've collected your leos poop on some clear plastic as Elizabeth explained and taken it to the vet for a fecel exam place paper towel in the corner your gecko poops, the ides is your gecko poops on the paper towel then to clean all you do is remove the towel and replace it, this makes cleaning easier in the tank and also reduces to risk of harbouring bacteria.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Thanks for all the help- will contact a vet regarding a fecal. Hopefully we can take care of this. Also, took belly pics but didn't save by mistake- will try soon. I may have seen a little pink on the underside, but it may be just me. Finally, she exhibited the same symptoms on her previous hunger strikes- does that suggest parasites? When she is eating, her feces are normal. The calcium is out of the cage.

You are welcome. :)

Click: http://www.reptileveterinarians.com/

I don't know why her feces would be yellow at times and normal at other times. Parasite load waxing and waning?

Are you using a type of sand mat substrate? If so after you've collected your leos poop on some clear plastic as Elizabeth explained and taken it to the vet for a fecel exam place paper towel in the corner your gecko poops, the ides is your gecko poops on the paper towel then to clean all you do is remove the towel and replace it, this makes cleaning easier in the tank and also reduces to risk of harbouring bacteria.

I'd actually put paper towels down for the entire substrate till the yellow feces issue has been resolved. :) Better to be safe rather than sorry.
 

Completeleopard

New member
Yes good point Elizabeth, until the yellow poop is resolved it is suggested to change your entire tanks substrate to paper towel, until you can go to the vet it would be recommended to keep the tank as clean as possible.
 

Meaningoflife42

New member
Will do- setting up an appointment and will try to change out her substrate when I get home. Appointment at 2- will hopefully get results.
 
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