Please help...gecko won't eat!!

[stacey6678]

I am new to this forum and I really hope that you guys can help me.

I have a 2 yr old male leopard gecko who we got last summer. He has been doing great since we got him. He has probably doubled in size and has a beautiful fat tail. He eats mainly crickets, but we supplement with Mealworms and he gets super worms and wax worms as a treat. He was eating every other day and would eat 4-6 crickets and a few meal worms at every feeding.

We gut load the feeders and dust them with calcium + D3 plus a multi vitamin 1-2 times a week. He has straight calcium powder in his terrarium regularly.

We had him in a 20 gal tank up until about a month ago but bought a new Exo-Terra 18x18x18 terrarium for him. He seemed to adjust well and was enjoying the extra room he has. He was still eating his regular meals. But all this changed 2 weeks ago when he just stopped eating. He shed his skin about 10 days ago and ate it all.

Generally when he sheds, he will eat really well 2 days before but then won't eat for a few days. This has been his pattern. But on the 2nd or 3rd day after shedding, he eats like a pig. This last time though, he didn't eat at all. It's been just over 2 weeks now and all he has eaten was 2 super worms about 6 days ago.

We thought maybe it had to do with his temps...as we had a dial thermometer reading 70° on the warm side!! So I went into the local reptile store where I buy my feeders and talked to them about it. I was told the dial thermometers are garbage and needed an infrared gun and or a digital thermometer for in his tank. I went and bought both. The digital is also a hydrometer. When I came home with these new ones, his warm side measured 92° and his humidity was 41%. The ambient temp is about 70°.

He has 3 hides, one on warm side, one on cool side and a moist hide in between. He loves his moist hide and seems to spend a lot if time in there. But he goes back and forth between that and his warm hide.

Other than that, absolutely nothing has changed. We use a humidifier in the room but I don't let it get above 45% except when he sheds...then I mist the tank and him frequently to assist his sheds.

Basically, I am concerned about him not eating. He hasn't lost any weight and his tail is still nice and fat. He still appears to be active as well. I take him out to give him some exercise every night and he still runs around as always.

Should I be concerned?? What could be causing him not to eat? He doesn't even have an interest in his food...he just turns his nose up at it and walks away. Being new to the world of geckos, I don't know if this is normal behaviour or not. I have done plenty of research and everything says that as long as he is not losing weight...not to worry!?! So then, at what poinot should I worry???

I don't know what else to do with him. I keep trying to feed him, but he keeps refusing. I hope that I can get some feedback here.

Thank you!!!
I attached a pic of "Cricket"...named by my daughter!!

 

[Completeleopard]

Hello and a warm welcome to GU.

. It is recommended not to feed Leo's wax worms due to their high fat content, they are unhealthy and also addictive to your Leo. Instead use Horn worms as treats.

. Super worms are also not recommended, they can bite your Leo.

. How often do you dust with the Calcium with D3? Please remove Calcium from the tank, Leo's can overdose.

. The recommended tank size for one full grown Leo is a 20 gallon LONG (30X12.5X12.5")

. Here are the recommended temperatures, these need to be correct as your Leo needs heat to digest his food. Without heat he won't eat as he knows he can't digest.


Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

. Place the moist hide on the warm side, above the UTH, this helps increase humidity keep your Leo warm whilst he's in the moist hide.

. Thermostat's are recommended, it helps keep the temperature of your UTH constant, saves electricity and reduced fire hazard.

. Your Leo looks overweight, this may be why he is not eating

 

[stacey6678]

Thank you for your reply.

I have removed the calcium from his tank. I was told that he needed to have that in there as long as it didn't have D3 and would only take what he needed.

When I take him out at night lately, I will put a little bit of Calcium D3 on my finger and he will usually lick a little bit of the powder off my fingers. Please note that I am ONLY doing this because he has not eaten for over 2 weeks and therefore I can not dust his crickets.

As far as the Super worms, when I say he only gets them as a treat, I mean maybe 1 or 2 once a month. I know they are very fattening.

He is also fed in a separate box from his tank and has seemed to prefer this method (and was fed this way before we got him but would eat from the tongs). I have tried to convert him to eating in his tank and would put his crickets and meal worms in there and he would not eat them. But I do find tong feeding it a better way to control how much he does eat. He knows when I clap the tongs together it's supper time. He would get really excited and wag his tail at the sight of his crickets. But I put them into the box and let him hunt them. I have gotten him to stop eating right from the tongs though.

When I got him, along with plenty of on going research, I spoke to the owner of the reptile store here and he told me that a gecko can not really be over fed. He will eat as much as he needs and then will stop when he's had enough. When I read through here and several other places as well, the amounts he was eating seems very averge. He would eat 4-5 crickets every 2-3 days, dusted with calcium D3 1-2 times a week. I do not dust his meal worms, only crickets. That being said, he only eats Mealworms maybe once a week and even then will only eat a few. He prefers his crickets.

The temps in his tank are all perfect according to your specs as well as many others I've read.

I know you recommend a 20 gal long tank, but everything in his 18x18x18 is just fine. Humidity, temps, etc.

My biggest question now is, how to proceed if he is overweight?? I was told by a few gecko friends that he looked really good and healthy...but you're saying he looks overweight. He gets lots of exercise daily when I take him out at night.

So then what do I do to get him to a healthy weight? And what is the average healthy weight of a leopard?? I guess not eating may do that...he has plenty of reserves to draw from!

Should I be worried or concerned? He seems perfectly fine other than not eating.

I appreciate your advice and recommendations.

 

[Completeleopard]

. It is debated whether it is OK to keep Calcium within the tank, but if you supplement correctly there is no need.

. The wax worms are more of a issue, they are very unhealthy. They shouldn't be fed to your Leo at all.

. Gecko's will only eat till they are full but it depends what you are feeding them, the wax worms could well be the issue.

. I would recommend getting digital scales and weighing him, anything over 80g is over weight.

. If he is over weight this could be the reason he's not eating , because he is not hungry.

. Judging by his weight, how he is still alert and healthy I wouldn't worry about him not eating.

. How are his poops? Is the urate white?

. Any chance of a picture of the enclosure?

 

[Cymmie]

I would stop feeding wax worms and super worms completely until he loses some weight, because even super worms are pretty high in fat if I remember correctly. You can start feeding supers (if you disable their jaws) when he loses some weight (if he needs to, which it does look like he needs to a little) as a treat on a occasion. Also you should probably stop feeding mealworms altogether, they are probably just as unhealthy as waxworms because they have high amount of exoskeleton which can cause impaction and are still really fatty. I would definitely keep doing the exercise thing. And keep offering crickets, pinch off the back legs of the crickets so they can't jump and let them run around the cage for a few hours, see if that interests him? It will expend energy and perhaps help him lose weight. If you want to feed him healthy worms there are such worms as silkworms, phoenix/repti/calci worms, small hornworms. Phoenix worms can be found in petco under the name calciworm, though they turn into flies rather fast, so if you don't have a chameleon to eat them it kinda sucks XD I have realized the ones called phoenix worms don't change as fast, but all three names have great amounts of calcium in them, help fight coccidia and have little fat in them. Hornworms are great for rehydrating and giving some calcium, not much fat at all. Silkworms are great all around but places rarely have them, they need to be fed special food and are die really easy when babies.

Silkworms and hornworms can only be gotten online unless you have an awesome store near you, it's always worth looking at. Be warned hornworms grow amazingly fast at an amazing rate, they can get to 4 inches in a week I think, to slow down their growth put them in the fridge every other day. They also need special food but I also think they can eat silkworm food and live off it, in case you just want to get a bunch of that, it's worth a try *shrugs* I am going to try it next time I get hornworms.

Just keep him well hydrated while he's not eating, if you notice he starts acting super lethargic and shows no interest in drinking, or moving, or anything out of character besides not eating I would start to worry. IF he loses what you think is too much weight definitely bring him to a vet, keep record of his weight. Get a food scale if you don't have one. ^^ Good luck

 

[CorgiNole]

The issue with the 18x18x18 is getting an adequate temperature zones in the tank - with a long tank you can more easily have a warm side and a cool side for them to thermoregulate. My girls became much more active when we moved them from the 18x18x18 to a 30x12x12. I am coveting the Exoterra 36x18x12 (the added height doesn't do much for leopards as they generally are not climbers).

Cheers, K

 

[stacey6678]

Ok, so I am going to get him a new tank soon, even though I check his temps twice a day and they are perfectly fine on warm & cold sides...according to what every one has recommended.

He still hasn't eaten...it's been over 3 weeks!! He is still very active and he is well hydrated. His poops look good (urates are nice & white)! I have removed the calcium from his tank but still continue to have him lick little bits of his calcium +D3 & multi vitamin mixture off my finger a couple times a week...just to ensure he is getting some as I can't dust his crickets right now!

I also want to state that I have only bought him wax worms one time and he only ate about 4 or 5 out of the batch over the course of a few weeks. I ended up throwing the rest out. He actually didn't seem to crazy about them, contrary to what everyone says! As far as super worms go...he gets literally 1 or 2 a month and meal worms...only a couple a week...if at all. He definitely prefers his crickets and that is pretty much what he always eats. I think the reason he has become over weight isn't about what he eats as it is more about HOW he eats. When I got him, he was already transitioned to being fed in a box separate from his terrarium. I tried to put the crickets in the tank with him, but he would not eat them at all. I think he became so accustomed to being fed that he became lazy and knew he didn't have to hunt. I have continued to try getting him to hunt naturally over the year that I have had him, but he just refuses to eat in his tank. So what do I do???? I have had to follow what he's always known. He was also about a year and a half old when we got him and has been fed that way for almost all of his life. I do not know why they ever started this with him but now I can't break it. He does get about 20-30 minutes every night out of his tank to wander and get some exercise. We have done this since day 1. He loves to be handled and is very affectionate!

I have to buy a new digital scale to monitor his weight...mine died last week so I don't know if he's losing anything. He certainly doesn't appear to be though! His tail is still nice & plump.

So should I worry about him not eating? At what point should I worry??? I read that they can go for 6+ weeks without eating, but I'm fairly new to the world of reptiles and just don't know...which is why I'm here. I've invested a lot of time, effort & money into him and I have become very attached. I do not want to lose him. I'm trying to do everything right here...but I am concerned.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Stacey ~

Leo Cricket is a bit chunky.

For more information regarding calcium, D3, and multivitamins scroll past the Basic Guidelines in my Leo Care Sheet to posts #22 and #48. There you will find clear information written by mod Hilde about the interactions of these supplements and why even pure calcium can be overdosed.

Click here too: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...ckets-blaptica-dubia-hornworms-silkworms.html

Hope this info is beneficial.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Stacey ~

You might troubleshoot these causes? Maybe leo Cricket is just taking a break from food right now?

#66---Leo Not Eating? Troubleshoot these causes......cricket4u (July & Nov 2013)

"Leos are very greedy and normally eat right away if everything is set up properly. However, I know there are exceptions. Try switching the hides. (The Exo-Terra hide is more secure and may be the reason. If he's not utilizing the heat, chances are he may not eat.) If that does not work, lower the temp as Elizabeth suggested. You may want to cover the sides of the glass so that he will feel more secure."

"Improper temps---air temps too hot or too cold
Improper humidity---too dry is most common
Stress---too much handling---lack of hides or not enough---cagemate bullying, cage too small, et cetera......
Repetitious Diet---variety is important
Spoiled food---upset stomach or simply a bad experience (common with superworms)
Food offered at the wrong time of day---lights on
Wrong size prey---too big or too small
Improper photoperiod
Prey not recognized---leo needs moving prey to elicit feeding response
Malfunctioning heating equipment---goes unnoticed---should be checked daily
UTH is too warm---unregulated---gecko avoids the warm spot, therefore will not eat (need thermostat)
Most common of all CHEAP thermometers => false temp readings
Too much calcium causing constipation and/or loss of appetite

Parasites
Infection
Metabolic---calcium or vitamin deficiency
Impaction
Dehydration
Pain from an injury or otherwise"

 

[cricket4u]

Hi Stacey.

The ambient temp is about 70°.

This is too cool. I guess your other readings are just ground?

Do not give him calcium with d3 without food. His body is not proportional which is normally a sign of improper heating or something is causing his bowels to move too slow (sometimes too much calcium). As already mentioned this size and shape of enclosure is almost impossible to provide a healthy temperature gradient. Can you post a picture of the enclosure? Is his neck actually as wide as it appears in this photo? He appears quite small for his age. There may be other problems that need correction as well.

 

[kimwal]

Wow your gecko is really beautiful! In my experience, my geckos go off the food for weeks at a time often especially once they are fully grown. Breeding season also has an effect on the appetite on both sexes. Watch the weight and their poops. I don't think you have a problem at this stage. I put the moist box over the warm side and condensation develops (they like it)which I keep clean--anyway I think mine really like the moist warm heat.
check out my geckos if u get a chance--I have been told they are getting overweight so I actually have cut back on their food. supergiantleopardgecko.com

 

[cricket4u]

Wow your gecko is really beautiful! In my experience, my geckos go off the food for weeks at a time often especially once they are fully grown. Breeding season also has an effect on the appetite on both sexes. Watch the weight and their poops. I don't think you have a problem at this stage. I put the moist box over the warm side and condensation develops (they like it)which I keep clean--anyway I think mine really like the moist warm heat.
check out my geckos if u get a chance--I have been told they are getting overweight so I actually have cut back on their food. supergiantleopardgecko.com

my geckos go off the food for weeks at a time often especially once they are fully grown.

I'm afraid you may be a victim of poor information Kimwal. There's no reason for them to go off food for weeks. Something is wrong with their husbandry and is likely on the list I posted. I don't know how often you dust, but I'm beginning to think too much calcium may be playing a greater role in this problem. The only way to know if this is the cause is to cut back slowly.

 

[stacey6678]

I am happy to report that Cricket has started eating his crickets again and is doing great!!

I have since removed the calcium from his tank which I'm pretty sure he never bothered with anyway because he liked to poop in it!! Haha!!

But I did buy an infrared temp gun and his temps are absolutely bang on perfect!! Ground temps are 92° on warm and about 78° on cool. He loves his warm moist hide and spends lots of time in there!!

But most importantly....he is eating again and getting lots of excersise.

As for his size...he is not small for his age. He measure 10.25" from end to end!! He is a big boy!! And yes, he may be slightly over weight, but he is getting lots of excersise daily!! We make sure of it.

So thank you again to your all for your advice, comments and suggestions!!

 

[cricket4u]

Great to hear he is eating.

Place a tape measure flat on the ground. Place your leo on it and make sure it's it's directly in the center and take a picture. Just to make sure you are measuring correctly.

 

[stacey6678]

I don't mean to be rude, I really don't...but I have done exactly that...I know how to measure!! He is 10.25 inches from his nose to the tip of his tail!

 

[cricket4u]

I don't mean to be rude, I really don't...but I have done exactly that...I know how to measure!! He is 10.25 inches from his nose to the tip of his tail!

I wanted you to prove it and shut me up.:lol:

he is well hydrated.

What makes you think he's well hydrated, just asking?

 

[kimwal]

You have a nice gecko and seems like you are a great gecko owner, very concerned about your gecko. I appreciate what Cricket wrote about the calcium and I am interested in finding out more about that. I believe you have a giant, possible super giant leopard gecko. Stacy--your gecko looked great. I think it is awesome that you and your family value your pet gecko and have time out of the box etc--he probably loves that. 10.25 inches is dead on for a giant/supergiant--go to geckosetc.com website and look at his supergiants or Ron Trempers website--he lists the lengths sometimes and they are anywhere from 10-11 inches. Good for Cricket the gecko!

 

[JIMI]

Giant maybe, but I don't think he's a Super Giant. My Super Giant is only a year and he's about 12 inches long maybe a little longer though I think I'll measure him again today because it's hard to get a good measurement from him! He could also just be a very large gecko! One thing I've learned from owning a large leo is that larger leos demand more space than normal sized leos. You mentioned that you will be getting him a different enclosure, correct? You might want to consider getting something that is around 40 inches long or longer if you can. Your leo will really appreciate it!

 

[Completeleopard]

Hello,

How is your Leo ?

 

[stacey6678]

He is doing great! He just shed his skin last night and ate it all. But I'm happy to say he seems to be back to normal and eating has resumed! Thanks for asking!