I would change what you have pictured. It's really simple. The info is all right here.
Where are those egg flats from Denny's?
Blaptica dubia: Care & Breeding
Breeding Blaptica dubia in a 10 gallon tank with 5 vertically positioned egg flats trimmed just a bit shorter than the height of the tank is simple. Alternating the egg flats back-to-back, then front-to-front, allows better hiding opportunities for your Blaptica dubia. Keep ground (or not) (Albers) All Purpose Poultry Feed, Purina Layena Sunfresh Crumbles, or Zoo Med's Natural Adult Bearded Dragon Food in a shallow lid to one side of the egg flats. Vitamin A acetate is one important ingredient in the dry diet. Collard greens can be added occasionally. Dandelion flowers and greens are also great sources of calcium. For moisture I dampen a clean medium-size sponge and spray the egg flats. In a room which ranges upwards from 67 F/19.5 C, I keep a 40 watt or 60 watt bulb in a 10 inch diameter reflector dome directly over the screened tank and on 24/7.
Dubia give birth to live nymphs when the temperatures are sufficiently warm. Females have this pointy body part called an ootheca. The babies emerge from the female's ootheca. The males "sprout" wings when they are mature. Mature dubia are way too big for most leopard geckos to eat.
Avoid cross contamination by not returning Blaptica dubia to the dubia tank if they are not eaten. They'll do fine in the leopard geckos' cages for a few days as long as they are contained within a feeding bowl. Place a little cricket food in their bowl.
Do NOT feed Blaptica dubia any type of dog, cat, puppy, or kitten food no matter how organic. I stay away from fish flakes/food as well.
Keep the dry diet DRY! Shield or remove the dry food when you spray the egg flats.
Tips
- "If you do not want to breed the roaches, keep them around 70 degrees F (21 C) to slow their growth. Eventually, if not fed off, they will grow larger than is safe for a gecko to eat.
At 70 degrees F, a dubia's metabolism is running on reserves and they won't eat or drink very much. Somewhere between 75 and 85 degrees F, they turn into eating machines. For the health of your lizard, you want them to eat good, nutritious foods that are high in moisture for 48 hours before feeding them off.
My breeders are kept at about 90-95 F and they seem to grow 2-3 times as fast as the ones I have set aside for feeders." [Thanks to GU's Geckologist.tj in October 2013 & January 2015]
- "You can tell when Blaptica dubia are sexually mature simply by looking at them. When they molt past their final instar, they are sexually dimorphic- that is, the males and females have different physical characteristics. The females will develop a more noticeable orange color to their patterns, more obvious than with the nymphs, and will have tiny wing nubs. The males when mature will have full wings upon the final molt.
The males develop their wings immediately during the final molt. Wing size, along with general body size, can sometimes vary, so when you say the males don't seem to have the wings like males should have, they may just be smaller wings than usual. If the wings cover the length of their backs, then they're adult males.
I read that dubia aren't cannibalistic although it's difficult to say for sure unless someone were to test this. I know orange head roaches are cannibalistic and even readily eat live insects." [Thanks to GU's Mogey in May 2014]
Click this excellent link: Feeder Roaches: Care and Breeding
Link:
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...ckets-blaptica-dubia-hornworms-silkworms.html
