Senior Leopard gecko not eating for 3 weeks and not pooping for a week

Chipchase

New member
She is a 7-8 year old leopard gecko. She’s in a 20g long tank with a warm hide, wet hide, and cool hide. I monitor the temps every few days and they’re within correct ranges. I took her to the vets 5 days ago after she had stopped eating for two weeks and hadn’t pooped in 4 days. The vet said it’s either the end of her life or parasites. I was unable to get a fecal done because she hasn’t pooped in so long. The vet gave me carnivore care to assist feed her. It’s been a week since the vet visit and every time I try to feed her she violently thrashes her head around and wipes the food off on the paper towels and tank walls. She refuses to eat and now hasn’t pooped in over a week. I’ve been giving her warm soaks everyday. She shed about 2 weeks ago and is still drinking water. She rarely moves from her hides she’ll stay in one hide for days at a time. Just was wondering if you guys think it’s time to let her go or if it’s something that can be fixed
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
She is a 7-8 year old leopard gecko. She’s in a 20g long tank with a warm hide, wet hide, and cool hide. I monitor the temps every few days and they’re within correct ranges. I took her to the vets 5 days ago after she had stopped eating for two weeks and hadn’t pooped in 4 days. The vet said it’s either the end of her life or parasites. I was unable to get a fecal done because she hasn’t pooped in so long. The vet gave me carnivore care to assist feed her. It’s been a week since the vet visit and every time I try to feed her she violently thrashes her head around and wipes the food off on the paper towels and tank walls. She refuses to eat and now hasn’t pooped in over a week. I’ve been giving her warm soaks everyday. She shed about 2 weeks ago and is still drinking water. She rarely moves from her hides she’ll stay in one hide for days at a time. Just was wondering if you guys think it’s time to let her go or if it’s something that can be fixed

Welcome to Geckos Unlimited! Providing daily warm soaks for your leo is excellent!

Of course, just like us, leos live for different amount of time. Currently there are several leopard geckos who live in Europe (2 separate keepers). Those leopard geckos may have now reached their early 40s!

  1. Did your leo visit an Exotics vet?
  2. Have you checked on her at different times of night and day?
  3. Where is the "wet" hide located?
  4. What size/dimensions is your heat mat?
  5. Which supplements are you using?
  6. Please list brand, exact name, and frequency.
  7. Are you consistently meeting the temps in this chart? \/ \/

Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun. Set your thermostat at 91*F/32.8*C.

Tape the thermostat's probe and a digital thermometer's probe together, but offset a little. Place them right on top of the substrate underneath the warm dry hide. If you use a UTH + a CHE you'll need 2 separate thermostats, because ground and air temperatures are substantially different.

  • Warm dry hide ground temperature: 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) inside a leo's warm dry hide.
  • Warm humid/moist hide: Place the humid hide 100% on top of the heat mat. Keep temperatures similar to the warm dry hide.
  • Cool dry hide ground temperature: 70ish-75 F (21.1-23.9 C) Usually the cool end ground temperature matches the room temperature where the enclosure sits.
  • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) surface temperature - 4 inches (10 cm) above ground on the warm end
  • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) surface temperature - 4 inches (10 cm) above ground on the cool end
Leave your heat mat on 24/7 IF ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C). If NOT, during the night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off)
 
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