I am interested in getting a good incubator and don't know what kind is best. I am interested in something that I can monitor my clutches without having to open the incubator and disturb anything. I also want a fairly large incubator. The species that I keep that I will use the incubator for are Uroplatus, montane chameleon species, Rhacs(and other New Caledonian species), Phelsuma, Ebanavia inunguis, Parodura masobe, Aleuroscalabatoes felinis and some others. I also plan on getting into GTP's and ETB's in the future. I also understand that I will need two incubators set at different temps to incubate all the mentioned species successfully, maybe more. Anyways any advice is much appreciated.
Incubators
- Thread starter Rbeitle
- Start date
DCReptiles
New member
im using 2 hovabators FROM LLLREPTILE , they both have picture windows on top so you can view, they have thermometer, and a thermostat that works very fast the temperature stays very constant, and the humidity stays very constant,i put all my eggs in bottle caps and i place the bottle caps in a deli cup, each deli cup holds about 4 bottle caps so 8 eggs, and the incubators hold about 8 deli cups so in total you can be holding 50-70 eegs, i also have had better hatch rates as the temperature has stayed so constant, and nothing hAS CHANGED
Riverside Reptiles
Administrator (HMFIC)
I use hovabators as well. They're pretty much the tried and true classic. Inexpensive, easy to use, and work well.
PS Since you mentioned A. Felinus, I incubate my felinus eggs at room temp in no incubator...just deli cup with vermiculite and water at the old standard 1:1 ratio by weight.
PS Since you mentioned A. Felinus, I incubate my felinus eggs at room temp in no incubator...just deli cup with vermiculite and water at the old standard 1:1 ratio by weight.
For those room temperture species get a thick styrofoam box (2 inch plus).
Cut a whole in the top if you NEED to look in. Place a clear material like plastic or glass, then keep a inch or more gap. Then put another piece on the outside of the hole so you basically make a "double pane" with an air gap to act as a temp buffer. Do not make it to big.
It's probably better just to skip that and open the box and look in though.
You can use a water layer at the bottom to act as a temperture buffer.
Cut a whole in the top if you NEED to look in. Place a clear material like plastic or glass, then keep a inch or more gap. Then put another piece on the outside of the hole so you basically make a "double pane" with an air gap to act as a temp buffer. Do not make it to big.
It's probably better just to skip that and open the box and look in though.
You can use a water layer at the bottom to act as a temperture buffer.
Bowfinger
New member
I incubate all my gecko eggs in room temperature set for species and have an almost 100% success unless failure due to other non temp problems. I have lost eggs especially from Aleuroscalabatoes felinis, Uroplatus phantasticus, Uroplatus ebenaui and mossies using the stable/constant temperature of an incubator. They do work well with many eggs, maybe most but consider some species need that fluctuation for best results.
I plan on getting into green tree pythons and emerald tree boas. The incubator will be used for them. I also think I would like to incubate some of my Diplo eggs in an incubator. Also the chameleon eggs should be incubated in an incubator, althought the species I work with will require lower temps than most. I also thought of incubating phelsuma eggs in an incubator. I thought I could plug in the incubator into an appliance timer setting it on twelve hours on and twelve hours off. This would create fluctuating temps but it would also enable me to reach my desired highs during the day. Any thought on this idea. With higher temps we might have better success hatching better sex ratios. When I incubate my Phelsuma eggs in deli cups in my reptile room I don't think it is getting warm enough and this method, in my opinion, will allow my temps to reach the desired range that I set on my thermostat. The twelve hours that the incubator is shut off at night will allow temps to fall creating a daytime high and a night time low but with much more control. By adjusting the amount of time the incubator is off you can control just how much the incubator cools off. This is just an idea requiring some feedback for some experienced people that are on this forum. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.