New 1.1 Henkels

Lunar Gecko

New member
Well I just got back from the SD Super show... Its VERY late and I'm (atm) setting up all the new acquisitions from the show. I picked up a WC 1.1 Henkels and I have never dealt with them. I have successfully kept satanics for some time now but was wondering as to what experienced keepers suggest as a guideline of husbandry for the Henkels. Basically just treat me as a herper noob, I want to make sure I get this correct. :coverlaugh:

For now I'm setting each of them them up in there own basic 96qt tub with a large water dish as I was told that was best for them. I know I will need to set them up with a UV light but as thats still in debate, I figured it could wait for after a panicure cycle? I have a planted 24x24x36 tank i would like to move them into. Is it best to keep them in pairs or should i keep them split up till a good weight or time of year like I have now. AS they are WC i have no idea on age, what weight should I wait for for breeding. The APPAIR to be adult as they are the same size but you know what they say about assuming! What temps and humidity do you suggest, or is satanic guidelines fine here? I'm fine with doing what ever is required, just tell me. TY TY TY!:biggrin:

I'll post pictures as soon as I am 100% unpacked and can find my camera. :roll:
 

Lunar Gecko

New member
Like a plastic storage tub with a screen opening until they finish there panicure treatment. This is what i put most of my animals in until they finish QT
 

Justin

New member
Ah right, sorry I thought you meant permanently :)

B. dubias are fine, you might want to feed from a bowl with a layer of sponge in to stop injuries as the dubia have a tendency of hiding up pretty quickly.
 

the-1

New member
I figured it could wait for after a panicure cycle?

FYI: PANACUR only treats nematode infections... If they are infected with tapeworms, or protozoans (coccidia...yeah I brought it up) they will need different drugs.

Have a fecal run and post the results in my Uroplatus Health thread ;-)
 

jadrig

New member
Well, the plastic tub is fine...

its probably better than a glass tank...
You can get better ventilation with a plastic container...if you are crafty.

As for the UV...you dont even need any light for them.

If you have live plants, whatever you need to keep the plants alive is sufficient for the Henkels.

Dubia are good, but sometimes the only way you can get the geckos to eat them is with forceps.
I use dubia's cuz they are so big, but they prefer crickets.

Only use superworms as a treat, they are too high in fat.

Do not treat your gecko for parasites...it is not neccessary...

Parasites are the least of its problems...

henkels come around real easily and dont have long term problems with parasites...if you take care of the gecko.

The two Henkels in my photo album were in real bad shape when I got them.
The came around and put meat on their bones...before you know it, they started cycling.
After I noticed they were producing eggs, I put them with the males and they started laying fertile eggs.

Do NOT TREAT YOUR GECKO FOR PARASITES...Unless you are bored and are feeling experimental.
 

Lunar Gecko

New member
Okay I wont treat then. How long should they be fine in the tubs for? Think I will need at least a week maybe 2 to get the other tanks together and planted.
 

jadrig

New member
The tubs are fine...as long as you have proper ventilation in order to keep the right humidity levels. Also, they like large vertical pieces of wood. 2-5 inches in diameter are good.

When I first got my two WC females, I put them in vertically set up 10 gallon tanks. Housed individually. At first, it is always best to house the animals individually, especially if they are WC.

Henkels come around real quickly, but be patient.

You should probably put them together when the female starts to develope (infertile) eggs. They are receptive for a couple days after they lay. Sometimes infertile eggs do not get deposited in accordance to their cycle/receptivity.
 

jadrig

New member
Rep cal is good, especially for the female.

Also, I forgot to mention that the main reason why you should keep them separate is because it would be easier to monitor how much/what they are eating.

how long are they from head to tail? They usually max out at 9-10 inches.
 

RFB2

New member
I would recommend keeping them separated for a minimum of 30 days. I usually aim for a month or two, if my newly obtained animals have never been housed together. Like jadrig, I think the worming can be skipped. If you do your homework and set them up properly you will most likely succeed in keeping them.

As far as housing goes, your planted tank is a lot bigger than most give. I applaud you for that, most keepers do not give the space needed for these geckos. Keep in mind that these geckos can negotiate a 3 foot jump with out any issues. If you start seeing a lot of bruised noses it would be a good idea to increase the size; the Svtek/Van Duin book suggests a minimum of 40x40x80 inches for the larger Uroplatus.

Good luck in you venture:)

Rob
 

Lunar Gecko

New member
egads! thats a costly book. =( may have to wait a few weeks but I WILL be getting it. I was unaware that there were any books on them. TY so much for the link.
 
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