Teeny gecko hatchling setups?

WingedWolfPsion

New member
Just wondered what folks were using for their TINIEST baby geckos--the ones so small a D. hydei is too big for them to eat. I had an issue with one of my Lygodactylus hatchlings disappearing, and I've blocked off every hole I could find on a zoomed tank. Is there a better solution?

The hatchlings were unhappy in a mason jar. Do folks have a line on very tight cages, or use larger jars, or what?
 

Hilde

Administrator
Staff member
I remember why I gave up keeping Lygos -- the hatchlings found invisible holes to escape. ;)

The best idea I came up with was large pickle jars - the gallon or two size so that it's not too cramped and hard to manage the environment. Plastic ones were great, but were easy to topple, so the needed something heavy (like a rock) on the bottom.

I kept it simple - plastic plants, a few bamboo sticks - make sure to silicone the ends securely so they can't hide inside and laugh while you're searching all over for them. Or, cut the bamboo right close to the 'divider', if it cracks or has a hole, silicone is your best friend.

Cut the centre out of the lid, or see if you can find a mason jar lid ring to fit. Use fibreglass screen over the jar, then screw the lid on - it will be a tight fit because of the screen, but I managed to get it to work.

For feeding, carefully remove open the jar and lift the screen, put a dab of fruit or Rhac diet on one of the plastic leaves. Since the little guys don't eat much the first few months, it's not worth using a food dish. Crickets or other bugs can be added once they get big enough to handle pinheads. I had springtails in with my Lygo hatchlings and know they ate them. They also ate the rice flour beetles that are used for dart frogs. Fruit flies come in several species, try the smallest ones you can get, they should work.
 

WingedWolfPsion

New member
Thanks! My baby williamsi has been eating primarily dusted D. melanogaster fruit flies. There are tropical springtails available in there as well. I haven't really started it on CGD yet.

I made a tiny magnet dish by gluing a balloon to some round magnets and then trimming it (to protect the glass and provide some grip), and then attaching one magnet to half of one of those little seed bead sorting canisters--the tiny, short round ones. I can easily remove that, put in some calcium dust, add flies, shake, and then return it to the cage.

I'm going to try permanently modifying a ZooMed 12X18 to use as an incubation 'cage'--I can just put the bamboo sections with eggs in them in there until the babies hatch, then move the babies to rearing cages. I just have to make sure to plug all the holes... >.<
 

WingedWolfPsion

New member
Well, I was breeding leopard geckos and some bandeds for a couple of years..almost a decade ago, now, lol. I have had these guys for just a couple months. The closest thing to these guys that I have kept before are green anoles.
I love them absolutely to pieces, though, so I really want to be successful with them.
 

geckogirl123

New member
Well, I was breeding leopard geckos and some bandeds for a couple of years..almost a decade ago, now, lol. I have had these guys for just a couple months. The closest thing to these guys that I have kept before are green anoles.
I love them absolutely to pieces, though, so I really want to be successful with them.

i hope you are successful with them best of luck!
 

hexentanz

New member
From what I have heard from a few people they are pretty escape proof. If you find otherwise from others on the web let me know and I can get the contact info of someone who builds tanks there for darts in the euro style which is used over here. :biggrin:
 

mkschaefer

New member
I purchase plastic, Rubbermaid one gallon kitchen containers from Walmart. Unfortunately, I can't find them anywhere else, so I have to purchase them there. I believe they are 2-3 dollars and have a white lid that screws onto the top.

I simply use a hole saw in my drill to make a hole in the top of the lid for ventilation/light penetration. I then use a hot glue gun to secure screen over the hole. The miniature enclosure is then secure. I have drilled small holes in the sides in various containers and covered them with screen to increase air flow. I have never had a problem retaining humidity in these setups, especially when you place live plants inside them with a small amount of substrate. I usually place bamboo or small branches in the setups also. Like Hilde said, you have to make sure you don't knock them over. If you place rocks in the bottom, you should be fine. The only accident I had occured when one setup slipped out of my hand (though they have a grip on the back) because I was rushing through feeding. The enclosure fell, the bamboo knocked around and nicked the tail of a young Phelsuma kochi. It could have been much worse. I am please with this setup as it is cheap, actually looks somewhat decent, provides vertical space, keeps in humidity, and you can easily place them under a fluorescent strip for heating and lighting. I will try to post pictures shortly.
 

PrestonG

New member
I purchase plastic, Rubbermaid one gallon kitchen containers from Walmart. Unfortunately, I can't find them anywhere else, so I have to purchase them there. I believe they are 2-3 dollars and have a white lid that screws onto the top.

Sounds like a great economical set up! Looking forward to a few pictures :)
 

jadrig

New member
Yeah, I use similar plastic jars that are almost identical to the rubbermaid ones available at wal mart. I ve been bartending at Outback Steakhouse for like 5 years. Their Maraschino Cherries/Olives come in these 64 oz clear plastic jars with the white lid. They just throw them out...so I save them...I remember paying over $3 for one at WalMart too. If there is an Outback Steakhouse near you, ask the bartender to save the jars for you...
I cut out a window on the side and hot glue some screen...It keeps baby lobster roaches IN so I am happy!
 

zohariels

New member
For my williamsii babies I use setups meant for tarantulas, such as EctoPhiles vases. If you want to make one on your own, buy a tall vase- I like ones at least 12-18 inches tall, helps provide a better temperature gradient-and put a layer of clay balls. I then put the dirt mixture, a plant or 2, and some bugs in there. Place a piece of screen mesh on top, and then your light and voila'! At night I usually put the lid on, this really boosts the humidity since they seem to need quite a bit, plus puts my mind at rest since they are such little escape artist devils!
On the exoterra, I once had a baby williamsii escape between the door and the side wall, right by where the hinges are. It was an older exo so I suppose the gap may have been slightly larger, but still. Good thing they're not criminals!
 

mkschaefer

New member
The bamboo section in this enclosure is rather short and I'm still working on trying to figure out how to add horizontal sections. I may just drill holes in the sides, slide a thin piece through, and secure it with sealant. That actually sounds like a decent idea.

Container1.jpg


Bamboo.jpg


This photo of the top depicts what happens when one gets lazy and does not look for his hole saw. Using a smaller (considerably so) spade bit results in a small and sloppy cut. Simply cut some mesh and affix to the underside of the top with some hot glue.

Containertop.jpg


Over the next few days, I'll be trying some other approaches. I'll post those pictures as well.
 
Last edited:

mkschaefer

New member
Prototype hatchling enclosure housing Phelsuma klemmeri

IMG_5825.jpg


IMG_5824.jpg


IMG_5823.jpg


IMG_5820.jpg


I really have to comb the archives to look for additional ideas.

What I like about this new setup:

1. The bamboo is secure (no shifting when moving cages-I have nipped tails before)
2. The bamboo is elevated near the light source (heat and UV)

What I don't like:
1. Bamboo is fixed into position with a hot glue gun. The "perches" can be removed but it will take more effort.
2. Tall, narrow enclosures are difficult to service and now even more potentially inaccessible(in the event of a problem with a hatchling)
3. Screening material allows the Drosophila to climb out when they get near the top. I need to find some sort of balance for permitting UV penetration and keeping the feeders in.

Still working on it, but a potential step in our collective search for the right setup.
 
Top