100% Leopard Gecko Care Sheet - Geckos Unlimited

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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#120---Metabolic Bone Disease PDF: Improvement is Possible!!! . . . . . . Eric Klaphake, DVM -- 2010


1. PDF written in 2010: A Fresh Look at Metabolic Bone Diseases in Reptiles and Amphibians......Eric Klaphake, DVM

file:///C:/Users/Liz/Downloads/A-Fresh-Look-at-Metabolic-Bone-Diseases-in-Reptiles-and-Amphibians.pdf
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2. RyoDai89 (re leo Boomie):
This link shows up!
Thread: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/78338

3. leopard gecko rehabbed (? leo Boomie)
This link also shows up!
Thread: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/posts/455648

DiscoverLight left pure calcium carbonate in a dish 24/7. She says that "The leo practically licked her calcium dish clean for the few months I've had her so it's gotten better. :)"

In addition DiscoverLight dusted some prey with calcium + D3.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#121---"Leopard Gecko Diseases & Care" . . . . . . Pacific Veterinary Conference -- 2015

Authors: Thomas H. Boyer, DVM, DABVP (Reptile & Amphibian Practice); Michael M. Garner, DVM, DACVP; Drury R. Reavill, DVM, DABVP (Avian); DACVP; Zachary J. Steffes, DVM.

This conference note is from the 2015 Pacific Veterinary Conference.

Click: https://newcms.eventkaddy.net/event...eopardGeckoDiseasesandCare_20150512213140.pdf

REFERENCES

"This article was previously published and used with permission. See Boyer T, Garner M, Reavill D, Steffes Z. Common problems of leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius). Proc ARAV. 2014:117–125, for references and full article."


Thanks to Susan Kaisaki's share (leo Poppy's keeper).
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#122---Water Treatment Precautions . . . . . . GU's amsdadtodd (Todd Sandahl) -- Jan 2016

Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/80016

"Beware, not all filtered water is as good as you'd think. Some types of ion exchange filters soften water by "trading" chemicals to soften water. Honestly, most hard water can be softened just by boiling it."

post 23:
"I believe hard vs soft water is really the wrong discussion to have as it relates to leopard gecko health.

"Water that is considered hard contains higher levels of calcium and magnesium salts than that which is considered soft. It should be noted that that these salts are minerals which we strive to keep in the diets of our pets. I don't use any softening techniques for my pets. I'll explain why a bit later.

"There are actually two kinds of hardness: carbonate hardness and permanent hardness. Carbonate hardness is the result of calcium bicarbonate and magnesium bicarbonate salts dissolved in the water. These salts are easily broken down by boiling, resulting in a reduction of the overall hardness of the water. Permanent hardness is the result of sulphate and chloride salts, and these can only be removed by more aggressive softening techniques, such as ion exchange, distillation, or RO/DI (Reverse Osmosis/De-Ionization).

"All three of these softening techniques have their risks. It's important to understand them before considering whether or not to employ them. Ion exchange is performed by passing water through a resinous material rich in sodium and/or potassium to replace the calcium and magnesium ions. The most commonly available ion exchange systems are "softener pillows" which are porous bags of resinous granules designed to either pour water through, or soak in a container of water to be softened. The net effect this has on our pets is alarming. It basically removes essential chemical elements like calcium and replaces them with chemicals which are intended to decrease those vital minerals inside their bodies. In other words, using ion exchange softened water is likely to remove calcium and magnesium from our leos' bodies. I don't know if this effect is sufficient enough to actually cause MBD, but I'm certainly not going to find out the hard way!

"Distilled water and RO/DI water both have largely the same risks. They are so purified that when they are ingested, they may leach nutrients from the tissues they pass through. In other words, the absence of any dissolved compounds in a solution creates an imbalance when it passes through the body of any organism. That imbalance is resolved by robbing dissolved minerals from the body tissue. This can lead to degradation of intestinal walls to the point of causing diarrhea. The same goes for humans. If we drink this ultra-pure water, it will sicken us quickly.

"The first part of the RO/DI process, stand alone Reverse Osmosis, is becoming more common and less costly. It's also less aggressive and probably less detrimental than the other methods.

"My personal preference is to not use any water softening methods. The tap water where I live is quite hard and has been chlorinated at the treatment plant. I use ReptiSafe water conditioner drops to remove any chlorine before pouring tap water into the water bowls. I wash the water bowls once a week with Dawn dish soap. There is no scale building up in the water dishes, but even if there was it's not a problem for our pets. The only other water I use for my pets is for spraying the moist hides. I have store bought spring water on hand which I use to spray many of the plants I keep in my herp room. I use this same water for the moist hides."


I hope this helps!
Todd Sandahl
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#123---Taming your Leopard Gecko . . . . . . GU's mecoat, Zux (Shane), & others

Leos can be very skittish. Don't scoop up your leo from above like an eagle would. That's what a predator would do! With your palm facing up, slide your hand underneath your leopard gecko's belly. Then lift.
  • Let your leo settle in. He should be eating & pooping regularly before trying this.
  • When approaching his cage, always speak quietly. Move slowly so as not to startle him.
  • Avoid sudden movements. They will spook your leo.
  • Next visit place your hand in the cage palm facing up. See whether he'll walk up to it.
  • Try that on several different days.
  • See whether he'll come up & sniff/lick your fingers. Maybe he'll climb on your hand.
  • If this goes well, with your palm facing up gently slide your fingers underneath his belly & lift him.
  • Judge your progress by your leo's reaction.
  • Remember baby steps. Don't rush it.
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mecoat -- Nov 2016
"Start with talking to your leo when you're feeding him, so he recognizes your voice and associates it with food, and non-scary stuff.

"Once he's used to that, add your hand in at the far side of the viv from him, talk at the same time. You may want to try having a mealworm on your hand at this point, so he might feel he'll come for the food.

"Once he's used to that, slowly add your hand closer to him.

"Once he's used to that, he may climb on board to get at the mealworm, don't pick him up at this point, let him get used to the fact that the hand isn't scary.

"Once he's used to coming on board, then you can try picking him up. Keep an eye on his body language and breathing rate, if you think he's starting to panic, keep calm yourself and pop him back in the viv near a hide so he can skuttle in there if he wants.

"Always be aware of him, and stay calm. (Beware if he strikes for a mealworm on your hand, try not to jump yourself). Slow and steady for taming."

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Zux -- Jan 2016
"I have gathered the following information from taming a number of different Geckos with wildly varied personalities and tolerances of human contact. This is by no means the only way to do things.

The first thing to remember when trying to tame any Gecko is that they all have distinct personalities. Anything you have read about a particular keeper's experience may or may not apply to you.

None of the taming process is scripted. It is wise for us to be respectful and to go at a pace comfortable for the individual at hand. Forcing things too quickly is likely to have a negative mental impact on the Gecko and, believe it or not, they do remember these (sometimes forever).

With that said there are some rules which you can/should always follow while taming your pet.
  • When close to your reptile never make sudden/jerky movements. This instantly triggers a flight response in all Geckos irrespective of their personalities. In other words - They all hate it.
  • When close to your reptile speak at a reasonable volume. Shouting or other loud noises tend to startle and/or stress them out, making them less receptive to handling or anything but hiding. Getting them used to your voice is very useful long term.
  • When taming any Gecko do so at a time they are normally comfortable being awake and outside of their favorite hides. For example, a Leopard Gecko or African Fat Tail will likely not wish to come to your hand for any reason including food bribes during daylight hours as this is a time they normally stay hidden, compounding the stress of your presence further.
  • When introducing your hand to the Gecko, and assuming you're not fortunate enough to have a terrarium with front opening doors, then let him/her see the hand coming from as far away as possible. In other words, just don't reach in from the air above the gecko as this is seen by them as predatory behavior and instantly makes them wary!
Keep these rules in mind as you begin the sometimes lengthy process of taming your Gecko. As I hinted at earlier this may take a very short or a very long time (likely somewhere in between) depending upon the Gecko's personality and how careful you are throughout the process.

For example, I have one Leopard Gecko who is now almost 10 months old and will still instantly flee to her hide at the sound of even my voice despite hearing it every night and tolerating handling itself very well. Some of them are just nervous individuals and this in most cases can still be worked with, though there are rare exceptions.

In contrast to that, another Leopard Gecko I have took no taming at all, and I mean none! She came and ate from my hand the first night I placed her in her terrarium. The next morning she instantly crawled onto my hand, up my arm, and out of her environment. I have yet to see a single sign of fear months later. No matter what happens even her breathing doesn't elevate.

My point is that Geckos can be vastly different even with the exact same care from the owner. Don't worry if things do not go as quickly as you'd like. Some things, as with humans, take time.


Follow, then repeat, these steps one by one until your Gecko is totally OK with each of them.
  1. Step 1: After you have given the Gecko one to two weeks to settle in and begin functioning normally, begin to familiarize them with your sight and sound. Sit by the tank when you know they can see you and talk to them, a little softly but not too far from what they are going to hear daily from now on. This will help your new pet realize you are not there to hunt them. Do this at night as often and for as long as you have time. A friend of mine studies and reads books aloud next to his African Fat Tail Gecko's terrarium.
  2. Step 2: Now that your Gecko is used to your presence, get him/her used to your smell and your hand. Begin by slowly placing your hand (palm down) on the floor of the terrarium. See if they will come to investigate. This may take a long time. If this isn't working or stopped working, move your hand to the door of the hide. Wait for them to come and investigate. Position your hand so that if your Gecko wishes to leave its hide it must walk across your hand. I have yet to see a gecko that, without due patience, won't come and at least look at your hand to see what it is. They are naturally curious. However, please note that some may take significantly longer than others to show any interest. Patience WILL be required. Getting the Gecko to realize that your hand is absolutely zero threat to them is your aim. Developing real trust with your hand enables further taming throughout the next stages. It's highly advisable but not a prerequisite to wait until the Gecko walks onto your hand by itself before moving forward with the next steps.
  3. Step 3: Once your Gecko has no fear of walking onto your hand, slowly lift it off the ground. Do this slowly. Only lift it a couple of inches at first before slowly placing it back down. This allows the Gecko to get used to the sensation.
  4. Step 4: The next step is some short hand walking. Once your gecko is on your hand lift it up. Slowly place your second hand in front of your Gecko as it begins to try to walk off the lifted hand. Judge your Gecko's comfort level by the speed at which it walks. If it slowly ambles from hand to hand continue this for 30 seconds or so. Otherwise, as soon as it begins to run, carefully lower your hand and place the gecko back on the ground in a secure spot. Repeat this until you can get the Gecko to calmly walk between the hands at least 10 times. At first the Gecko may not even like walking once, but this will improve with time.
  5. Step 5: Next up is getting the Gecko used to not just your hand, but to your touch. Once your Gecko is comfortable climbing on and over your hand, start very slowly touching it. I gently stroke its side with a finger, because that's the place it would be lifted up from when it comes to handling. Generally speaking, once your Gecko is used to your hand and sees your touch coming, it won't react badly to very light contact. Repeat this until you can tell that the Gecko is not frightened by touch. Try different areas such as the back and top of the head. Always be gentle and avoid the tail. Mistakes here can push taming backwards, so pay attention and be gentle.
  6. Step 6: The next and final step is picking up your Gecko. Note I did not say grabbing your Gecko! That isn't and never will be something I suggest doing, no matter the situation.

    Using as many fingers as the space between your Gecko's legs allow, very gently push your fingers underneath his/her belly while doing the same with your thumb from the other side. If you're doing this while they are laying down, make sure that you do not pinch his/her skin. With your fingers and thumb under the belly supporting your Gecko, gently lift the Gecko out of the vivarium.
So that covers the basics. Once you have gone through all of these stages and allowed a sufficient amount of time within each for your gecko to become accustomed the the new experiences, it becomes a matter of repetition in order to fully tame your Gecko.

As a final note I can't stress enough the importance of patience and of trying to look at things from their point of view. Rushing things like this with reptiles only has negative consequences on their long term tolerance to handling and to people in general.

Be aware when your Gecko is not happy or feeling scared. Quick pulsing of the throat almost always indicates increased fear! Extra care should be taken when your Gecko is feeling this way. Likewise when they move in sudden bursts and stay deathly still between those they are behaving defensively and shouldn't be stressed further. If you are somewhat informed as to how they normally move and act, you can make more effective decisions on how you behave around them and minimize the negative experiences they associate you with.

Good Luck"
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#124--Weekly Feeding & Supplement Schedule 124 for leopard geckos 0-12 months old

  • Use Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 at 1 feeding per week. Dust it on most every insect at that feeding.
  • Use plain precipitated calcium carbonate at 1 feeding per week. Dust it on crickets or dubia. Precipitated calcium carbonate is purer than oyster shell calcium. The NOW brand sold in health foods stores or on Amazon is ideal.
  • Use Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins withOUT D3 at 1 feeding per week. Dust it on most every insect at that feeding.
These schedules depend upon feeding a good quality dry diet to your insects & worms 24/7/365. Finely grind Zoo Med's Natural ADULT Bearded Dragon Food (or an equivalent high quality dry diet) to feed bugs & worms. That covers the basics. Then supplement this 24/7/365 dry diet frequently with high calcium, low phosphorus, leafy greens: collard, mustard, turnip greens, pesticide-free dandelion flowers/greens, fresh carrots, & sweet potatoes. Vary your leopard gecko's diet. Crickets, Blaptica dubia, hornworms, Phoenix worms, & silkworms are all good.

Nutritional Comparisons of Insects & Worms


Weekly Schedule 124 for Leopard Geckos 0-12 months old
(withOUT UVB)
The medical term for Metabolic Bone Disease = Nutritional Secondary HyperParathyroidism. NSHP symptoms include leaning to one side when walking, walking on one or both "elbows", bowed limbs, belly dragging, & an underbite. Hind leg paralysis can be due to a narrowing of the spinal column. Difficulty chewing should be closely monitored.
The Reptile Supply Company (916-226-4089) based in Bonham, Texas stocks Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins withOUT D3.

repticalciumwd3.jpg+ 5777.jpg+ 5774.jpgOR 49151.jpg
(click to enlarge)

Dust the prey 3x per week even when your leopard gecko eats daily. When your leo graduates to eating ~3x per week, still dust the prey ONLY 3x per week.

During this time (0-12 months old) your leopard gecko will be transitioning from daily feeding to feeding ~3x per week. This all depends upon how fast your leo grows!

  • Monday > > crickets or dubia dusted with Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3
  • Tuesday > > mealworms, superworms, or black soldier fly larvae (Phoenix worms) > > no dusting
  • Wednesday > > crickets or dubia dusted with pure precipitated calcium carbonate withOUT D3 (Zoo Med's Repti Calcium or NOW's human-grade pure calcium carbonate)
  • Thursday > > mealworms, superworms, or black soldier fly larvae (Phoenix worms) > > no dusting
  • Friday > > crickets or dubia dusted with Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins withOUT D3
  • Saturday > > mealworms, superworms, or black soldier fly larvae (Phoenix worms) > > no dusting
  • Sunday > > no food or free choice > > no dusting

For link 124 click:
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#125---Weekly Feeding & Supplement Schedule 125 for leopard geckos 12-18 months old

Here goes:
Weekly Schedule 125 for leopard geckos 12-18 months old
(withOUT UVB)
The medical term for Metabolic Bone Disease = Nutritional Secondary HyperParathyroidism. NSHP symptoms include leaning to one side when walking, walking on one or both "elbows", bowed limbs, belly dragging, & an underbite. Hind leg paralysis can be due to a narrowing of the spinal column. Difficulty chewing should be closely monitored.

These schedules depend upon feeding a good quality dry diet to your insects & worms 24/7/365. Finely grind Zoo Med's Natural ADULT Bearded Dragon Food (or an equivalent high quality dry diet) to feed bugs & worms. That covers the basics. Then supplement this 24/7/365 dry diet
frequently with high calcium, low phosphorus, leafy greens: collard, mustard, turnip greens, pesticide-free dandelion flowers/greens, fresh carrots, & sweet potatoes. Vary your leopard gecko's diet. Crickets, Blaptica dubia, hornworms, Phoenix worms, & silkworms are all good.
The Reptile Supply Company (916-226-4089) based in Bonham, Texas stocks Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins withOUT D3.

Powdered supplement recommendations for leopard geckos 12-18 months old depend upon how much your leo has grown thus far & whether he/she is walking strongly. Leopard geckos usually reach maximum size at about 18 months old.


repticalciumwd3.jpg + 5777.jpg + 5774.jpg OR 49151.jpg
(click to enlarge)

Feed dusted prey 3x per week.
  • Monday > > crickets or dubia dusted with Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3
  • Wednesday > > crickets or dubia dusted with pure precipitated calcium carbonate withOUT D3 (Zoo Med's Repti Calcium or NOW's human-grade pure calcium carbonate)
  • Friday > > crickets or dubia dusted with Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins withOUT D3
  • Saturday > > mealworms, superworms, or black soldier fly larvae (Phoenix worms) >> no dusting

For link 125 click:
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#126---Weekly Feeding & Supplement Schedule 126 for leopard geckos 18 months old +

If a leo is doing well at 18 mo, here's the Feeding & Supplement Schedule I recommend next:
  • Use Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 at 1 feeding per week. Dust it on most every insect at that feeding.
  • Use Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins withOUT D3 at 1 feeding per week. Dust it on most every insect at that feeding.
These schedules depend upon feeding a good quality dry diet to your insects & worms 24/7/365. Finely grind Zoo Med's Natural ADULT Bearded Dragon Food (or an equivalent high quality dry diet) to feed bugs & worms. That covers the basics. Then supplement this 24/7/365 dry diet frequently with high calcium, low phosphorus, leafy greens: collard, mustard, turnip greens, pesticide-free dandelion flowers/greens, fresh carrots, & sweet potatoes. Vary your leopard gecko's diet. Crickets, Blaptica dubia, hornworms, Phoenix worms, & silkworms are all good.

Nutritional Comparisons of Insects & Worms

Weekly Schedule 126 for Leopard Geckos 18 months old +
(withOUT UVB)
The medical term for Metabolic Bone Disease = Nutritional Secondary HyperParathyroidism. NSHP symptoms include leaning to one side when walking, walking on one or both "elbows", bowed limbs, belly dragging, & an underbite. Hind leg weakness or paralysis can also be a MBD symptom. Difficulty chewing should be closely monitored.
The Reptile Supply Company (916-226-4089) based in Bonham, Texas stocks Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins withOUT D3.


5777.jpg + repticalciumwd3.jpg
(click to enlarge)

This supplement combination lets one use Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 separately from Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamin withOUT D3, if necessary. You might not need Zoo Med's Repti Calcium (plain calcium carbonate) at all right now.
  • Monday > > crickets or dubia dusted with Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3
  • Thursday > > crickets or dubia dusted with Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins withOUT D3
  • Saturday > > Optional: mealworms, superworms, or black soldier fly larvae (Phoenix worms) > > no dusting

For link 126 click:
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#127---Housing Leopard Geckos Alone . . . . . . GU's Zux (Shane) -- July 2016

"OK, so there are myriad reasons to keep every Gecko regardless of sex in separate enclosures.

They gain absolutely nothing from cohabiting as they are solitary creatures in the wild. If we force them to cohabitate they quickly establish an order of dominance within the group and have extremely subtle ways of communicating with one another to maintain this. One example of this would be the 'stacking' behavior when sleeping, often perceived by humans as cuddling.

Recent evidence coupled with more understanding surrounding their complex behaviors suggests even females appear far more content and thrive far better when they are given their own territory. I feel very strongly they deserve this anyway!

In answer to your question about the male constantly breeding: yes, he absolutely will pester the females nightly throughout the year, further stressing those who are already forced to live in a group. It is impossible for you to know who he pesters to breed and how badly without keeping 24/7 watch.


I could go on for a month about how many reasons there are to never house any Gecko together unless during breeding. I cannot stress enough if it is possible for you to house each Gecko separately you absolutely should! They will be exponentially happier, even if that is hard or impossible for us to perceive."


- Shane
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#128---Natural History & Biology of Eublepharis macularius . . . . . . Hilde -- August 2016

For the thread click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/81734

The post itself:
"Interesting first hand field experience with leopard geckos. This should help one understand why they do what they do (and don't do), as well as give some insight into their natural environment, making it easy to figure out the type of setup they will thrive in.

You can read it online or download the PDF. The PDF includes pictures of their natural habitat, wild geckos, and diagrams of their typical resting places (burrows). There are a few minor rough spots in translation, but nothing that will make things difficult to understand.

*Please don't comment on the persecution section. It's a cultural thing, not relevant here, so leave it out of any discussion. We don't want to risk starting anything nasty.*


Natural history and biology of Eublepharis macularius
Muhammad Sharif Khan
Herpetological Laboratory
Click: morphology and ecology of leopard gecko (E. macularious) from pakistan | muhammad S khan - Academia.edu

Info about the author, which shows he's not a fly-by-night kind of guy, he knows what he's talking about: Muhammad Sharif Khan has a PhD in Zoology. He taught at Talimul Islam College from 1963 to 1999. He was Director of Herpetological Laboratory, 15/6 Darul Sadar N. Rabwah, Punjab, Pakistan. His research included taxonomy, development, and zoogeography of amphibians and reptiles of Pakistan. He worked on feeding ecology of amphibian tadpoles. He has written several research papers and two books in Urdu. He has collected widely in Pakistan and has photographed and described several new species of frogs, lizards, and snakes from Pakistan.

Special interests: Amphibians and reptiles of Pakistan.

Click: Muhammad Sharif Khan"
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#132---Why I use & highly recommend Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 & Zoo Med's Reptivite withOUT D3 for geckos . . . . . . Elizabeth Freer

I use these powdered supplements for my geckos.
  • Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3
  • Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins withOUT D3 (The Reptile Supply Company based in Bonham, Texas carries Reptivite multivitamins withOUT D3. Pangea & Amazon also carry Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins withOUT D3.)
    5777.jpg
    (click to enlarge)
  • NOW brand or Zoo Med's Repti Calcium (withOUT D3) = pure precipitated calcium carbonate
  • + Shaved cuttle bone in powder and in chunks for mature female Cyrtodactylus zebraicus always, even when they are only producing infertile eggs. Even infertile eggs deplete their bodies of calcium. :( Just shave the powder OFF the bone/shell backing. Do not shave the "bone" itself.
I recommend the above supplements for many reasons.
  1. Some vitamins (A, D, E, & K) are fat soluble. Those vitamins stick around a longer time & don't need to be taken daily or at every feeding.
  2. Vitamin C & the B vitamins are water soluble. They are excreted in urine.
  3. Some reptile multivitamins (Rep Cal's Herptivite, Exo Terra's multivitamin, others) only contain pro-formed vitamin A (beta carotene). It's been proven that lizards need a wee bit of pre-formed vitamin A acetate (retinol) to metabolize beta carotene.
  4. A wee bit of vitamin A acetate (retinol) @ 1 feeding per week reduces both eye and skin-related issues in many geckos! [Oedura castelnaui (Northern Velvet Geckos) may be particularly sensitive to retinol dusted prey!]
  5. As your gecko grows, she will eat larger crickets. Then, when you dust, she'll naturally be getting more supplements per cricket.
  6. Zoo Med's ReptiVite™ multivitamins are highly recommended by Scott Stahl, DVM, the premiere reptile vet.
  7. My vet only recommends a wee pinch of Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins at 1 feeding per week.
  8. Phosphorus negatively impacts calcium absorption. The more phosphorus a supplement has, the less any calcium is absorbed by the bones.
  9. Vitamin D3 needs to be taken with food.
  10. Calcium needs vitamin D3 in order to be absorbed. Dusting with plain calcium carbonate without giving vitamin D3 only helps if there is residual D3 inside your gecko.
  11. Excess calcium in the digestive tract can hinder absorption of vitamins A, D, E, & K. That's why I don't recommend keeping plain (no D3) calcium in a bottle cap inside the enclosure for most my geckos..
  12. Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 contains 22,907 IU/kg (10,390 IU/pound) of D3. Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 contains "enough" D3.
  13. One supplement & feeding schedule isn't good for life. My leopard gecko care sheet contains 3 non-UVB schedules (#124, 125, & 126) and 3 UVB schedules (#154, 155 & 156). Schedule 144 covers Repashy's Calcium Plus multivitamins.
  14. For geckos 12 months old & younger (including breeding females) add one day of pure calcium.
  15. It's harmful to have vitamin D3 in both the multivitamin & the calcium powder.
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  • Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 contains significantly more calcium per "dose" than does Reptivite with or withOUT D3 per "dose".
    • Repti Calcium with D3 = 38-43% calcium per dose
    • Reptivite multivitamins = 25-28% calcium per dose
  • Your gecko gets weekly vitamin D3 without overdoing other multivitamins.
  • Reptivite multivitamins contains phosphorus; Repti Calcium is phosphorus-free.
  • My recommendations depend upon feeding your crickets key veggies along with a good dry diet.

Consider using Nutrabol all-in-one multivitamins with a calcium : phosphorus ratio of 46 : 1 along with a pure precipitated calcium carbonate.
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Dr. Scott Stahl, the premiere reptile vet, highly recommends Zoo Med's product ReptiVite™. Dr. Stahl states: "Originally formulated for zoos, it seems to work better than any other product I've tried including the Repashy supplements."

"My gutload mix includes paprika for Vitamin A. I also include carrot and dandelion greens for their moisture and other vitamins and nutrients. Plant-based is always more assimilable than manufactured supplements."

/\ Thanks to GU's billewicz (Michael) for sharing Dr. Stahl's feedback!

Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/posts/456690
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#133---Leo Merlin's struggles with gout . . . . . . GU's Samurai Drifter -- 4 December 2016

Retroactive and long overdue "thank you" for your supplementation schedule, Elizabeth! I have adapted his schedule to match this more closely.

As an update, I did finish the course of antibiotics, and it does not seem to have made Merlin worse. I should have just trusted the vet from the beginning, I guess. It didn't totally fix his eye (still closed/squinty all the time), but the cloudiness did go away.

I also figured it would be a good idea to include a general status report, just for the benefit of anyone else attempting to research what they can expect out of caring for a Leo with gout, and community knowledge.

Time since diagnosis: approximately 2 months.

Medication/Treatment: 0.5 mg allopurinol daily. Most days receives a bath in a 3:1 water to pedialyte mixture, occasionally mixing in cherry extract (have heard this is good for gout on other reptile forums. Vet said he wasn't aware of studies showing its effectiveness, but that it wouldn't hurt).

General Status: Active with a good appetite (almost bit my finger when I was dropping in his cricket earlier). Weight is normal. Feces are normal.

Signs/Symptoms: Definitely consuming more water than normal, which is likely related to the decline in kidney function. The swelling of his limbs has not progressed very noticeably, but there does seem to be greater opacity in certain areas on his underside, such as where the forelegs meet the body. There is decreased mobility of joints. Spends the vast majority of his time on the warm side of his tank, though that may also be due to the fact that it's winter here and I live in a very cold environment, so it sometimes gets cold in my room.


For Samurai Drifter's thread about leopard gecko Merlin click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/posts/468974


RIP Merlin 2001-2017 (Scroll to post 51.)
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#134---Vitamin D3 Overdosage in an Actual Leopard Gecko......2017 threads

"D3 serves the function of breaking down calcium. While this makes it an essential nutrient, it also means that too much D3 breaks down ALL the calcium, and results in just as severe a calcium deficiency as if your gecko wasn't being given any supplements.

With the schedule you're using, it's possible your Leo has MBD, which is basically bone deformities caused by calcium deficiency. You should not dust with D3 more than about once per week."

Thanks to Samurai Drifter -- 29 January 2017 :)

Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/posts/470101
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#135---Supplement Overdose Cure for leopard gecko leg tremors -- Zux + (update)

GeckoFanboy's leo Scooby

19 April 2021 - post #41
Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/82595

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"Hi Elizabeth,

"Yes it is wonderful to see more and more keepers beginning to take heed of advancements in knowledge and experience, and bring their care closer to meeting the most modern standards. The benefits seen in the animals are astounding.

"I have had all the Geckos, and in fact, all species under UVB for approximately 1.5 years now.

"Details Below -

"Species: Leopard Geckos / African Fat Tailed Geckos
Dimensions of enclosures: 48Lx24Wx18H (inches)
Brand and type of bulbs: Arcadia 6% High Output T5 Bulbs
Strength of UVB: 6% UVB providing a UVI of 3-4 at the closest basking spot and slowly decreasing into total shade.
How long UVB is left on during the day?: The Bulbs are now on 12 hours a day, on average, every day, though I feel it is safer to build up to this point slowly, increasing exposure by a couple of minutes per day.

"Species: Bearded Dragons
Dimensions of enclosure: 72Lx36Wx36H (inches)
Brand and type of bulb: Arcadia 14% High Output T5 'Dragon Lamps'
Strength of UVB: 14% UVB providing a UVI of 6 at the closest basking spot and slowly decreasing into total shade.
How long UVB is left on during the day?: The Bulbs are on 12 hours a day on average, every day.

"I listed some of the most common species above which should be of interest to some, I also keep various Chameleon species and can offer some advice based on my experience with those also should anybody wish me to do so.

"Hope that helped, any further questions, do let me know."

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"Hi guys,

"I too have observed this in many Leopard Geckos in captivity.

"It is my feeling that 'mild' symptoms such as these are almost always connected to either a slight under or over supply of one or more vitamins and/or minerals.

"It has been my experience that symptoms like those 'slight shake/shudders' seem to be in some way tied to Calcium provision in the diet and the Geckos capability to absorb and effectively make use of that Calcium. I have absolutely zero scientific evidence to support this however and it is merely a theory of mine.

"When caring for Leopard Geckos, and any Reptile for that matter, it is very difficult for us to provide exactly what they need in terms of vitamins/minerals through supplementation alone, that is usually because we actually have almost no idea what they need and are merely trying to cover the bases in a bid to stave off any potential critical deficiencies.

"There are almost as many opinions on supplementation regimes as there are Leo owners, so I won't comment on those and instead explain what I do for mine.

"All of my Geckos have UVB lighting and thereby self regulate their D3 cycles without any 'synthetic D3' supplementation from me. I dust at every second feeding with a balanced and full spectrum Calcium based multivitamin powder designed for daily or bi-daily re-balancing of insect prey. I also, periodically, provide a small dish of Calcium with Magnesium in the Geckos enclosures, especially for those females who may have been feeding poorly due to ovulation for example (it is worth noting that it these individuals in which I tend to notice the shaky leg in particular, further supporting the theory that it is through a dietary deficiency that this issue arises). The Geckos can almost always correct the symptoms themselves via self regulation of not only their Calcium/Mg levels but their D3 production also.

"If you would like information regarding the products I use in particular, or anything else for that matter, just let me know.

"I hope that might be of some small help to you.

"Thank-you to Elizabeth (yet again) for pointing your thread out to me."

/\ /\ Above quoted information contributed by Zux (Shane) in March 2017
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#136---Important Links

Click & scroll to post 4 (blondebrowncoat on Inkbird model thermostats):
/\ April 2018: Now you can buy a separate additional probe so the Inkbird can be used to monitor 2 separate heat mats.

Amazon: digital thermostats from $20 (Apollo) (Andy Hauser)

Click: GeckoWeb? - Home

Click: 10 Fascinating Facts About Crickets

Click: NEHERP - Vivarium Construction 101 - The most complete vivarium building articles online!

From GU's winterminute on 18 Jan 2019: re rescue of son's leo stuck in a build-in bookcase for ~90 minutes with outside wall temps ~30*F: "I think she's doing good. Thank you for asking! She's coming out a bit more at night. Last night she waded into her water dish which was funny to watch. I'm glad I got a camera otherwise I'd have no idea what happens when we go to bed. FYI for others, Wyze wireless cams are $25 and great little toys."

"Trace Elements" -- Hilde link (2-18-2013)
The best thing to do is read the actual PDF, get all the details, including diagrams and tables.

from post 5 on this thread -- https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/67992

Click: https://www.traceelements.com/EducationalResources/PublishedArticles.aspx

There is no need to have a supply of calcium in the enclosure, the gecko doesn't need big gobs of it to stay healthy. Compare the size of a vitamin/mineral supplement for humans to the size of the person taking it. That small pill can fully supplement a human body. Why would a tiny gecko need a dose of vitamins and/or minerals big enough for a human?
The idea is to "dust" the prey, not ice the bugs like a cake so they look like moving snowmen.

The only way to properly regulate vitamin and mineral intake, calcium in particular, is to only supply it via gutloading and dusting.

Natural Sea Sponges for warm moist hides from Amazon . . . . . . Geecko123 -- May 2019
Click: https://www.amazon.com/4-Pack-Spong...FQTT8QSM60H&psc=1&refRID=8YNQQK2DXFQTT8QSM60H

Solarmeter 6.5R . . . . . . EF -- April 2019
Click: https://www.solarmeter.com/pdfs/6.5R_UV-Index-Interactive.pdf

Terrario para Geckos Leopardo parte: 1 (Leo Enclosure Build: part 1)---shared by Sg612 -- March 2019
Click:
(post 15 on this bioactive terrarium thread: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/86647)

Phelsuma standingi care sheet . . . . . . Wally Kern, author
Click: http://supremegecko.com/phelsuma-standingi

Ultratherm link from Bean Farm's website -- March 2019 (copyright 2005)
Click: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0442/8753/files/ultratherm_info_sheet.pdf?4632153124885612981

***** Exercise performance of reptiles . . . . . . shared by Hilde -- March 2019 (on this thread: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/86637)
Click: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/7810376

*** "Zoo Med's Lighting Zones Charts". . . . . . shared by DrGreatScott -- February 2019
Click: https://zoomed.com/wp-content/uploads/Choosing-Correct-UVB-Lamp-2018-07.pdf
Screenshot (8).jpg

*** Pangea's Digital Thermometer with probe . . . . . . shared by Aliza -- February 2019
need URL

*** Zoo Med: "Reptiles & UVB". . . . . . shared by Sg612 -- January 2019
Click: https://zoomed.com/wp-content/uploads/Reptiles-and-UVB.pdf

Conversion Kits for Tanks (2.5, 5.5, 10, 20 L/29, 20 tall, & 40 Br) . . . . . . shared by Aliza -- January 2019
Ventilation can be customized. Just ask.​
Ventilation LOW on the cool end and HIGH on the warm end produces good airflow. That can partially be achieved by carefully removing one end and creating a 1/8" or 1/4" inch grid hardware top/screen.​
Click: https://store.iheartgeckos.com/

Setting up an 18 x 18 x 24 inch Exo Terra bioactive for Lygodactylus williamsi . . . . . . shared by Sg612 -- January 2019
Click:

***** Reptile Lighting Information . . . . . . Fran Baines, DVM -- January 2019
Click: http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Reptile-Health/Habitats-Care/Reptile-Lighting-Information/

Post 3 shares +++ info on Herpstat thermostats -- January 2019
Click Jedijon's thread: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/86367

Captured -- February 2018
Click: https://dubiaroachdepot.com/guidance/dubia-roaches-vs-other-feeder-insects

UVB for AFTs . . . . . . Pon (with Zux's feedback) -- December 2017
Click & scroll to post https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/84293

Good Substrate Mix for AFTs & Plants, & Bug Stuff . . . . . . ludwig.donn (Zux's feedback on post 2) -- July 2017
Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/83406

Another thread's vet suggests an Arcadia 2.4 UVB 8 watt bulb for a 23 x 11 x 10 inch tank + powdered D3 @ 1 feeding per month as back up . . . . . . LilBobbyD -- October 2017
Click & scroll to UVB lighting posts 1, 19, & 20: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/83943

Custom Builds for leos Cecil & Cleo . . . . . . Seth9999 -- September 2017 (Leo Cecil's 48 x 20 x 12 inch high enclosure)
Click & scroll to posts 42, 43 (Zux), 44, 45: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/83817

Phelsuma grandis Freddy & keeper Mariska (Netherlands) Problem began June 2016: Male bit tail off after "minor" injury -- continues to bite stump -- won't let wound heal! -- July 2017
Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/posts/474898

Phelsuma keeper from Israel: Nika ----> female Phelsuma recovers from sudden death of her cagemate with total redo of enclosure -- July 2017
Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/83426
  • Nika shares cricket ideas as well!
DubiaRoaches.com Feeder Chart combined with Mark Finke's Feeder Chart -- July 2017
Click: The Most Complete Feeder Insect Nutrition Chart | The Reptile Report

Eco Earth coco fiber impaction thread -- July 2017
Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/83271

How I Breed Mealworms!......PoppyDear -- June 2017
Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/83261

Zoo Med Lighting Chart -- June 2017
Click: https://zoomed.com/wp-content/uploads/Reptile-Lamp-Chart.pdf

Post 3 by PoppyDear -- June 2017
Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/83199

Treating Thermal Burns in Reptiles . . . . . . shared by PoppyDear -- April 2017
Click: https://savethereptiles.wordpress.com/2010/01/07/treating-thermal-burns-in-reptiles/

Mark Finke, PhD + DubiaRoaches.com Feeder Chart combo -- March 2017
Click: The Most Complete Feeder Insect Nutrition Chart | The Reptile Report

Automated Cricket Dispenser . . . . . . Jeff92 (Jean-François) -- 13 May 2016
Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/81238

Zoo Med Excavator Clay Custom Build . . . . . . swisswiss (Jeff) -- 27 Jan 2016
Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/80283

Self Cleaning Dubia Roach Set Up . . . . . . kholtme (Kyle Holtmeyer) -- 31 August 2015
Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/79355

Custom Hexagon top . . . . . . booth2010 -- March 2015 (On E's Crestie Summary)
Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/77953

*****A link shared by Hilde -- April 2014
Click: http://www.merckvetmanual.com/manag...nd-zoo-animals/nutrition-in-reptiles#v3321842

Pinworms . . . . . . matt0101 -- 9 Sept 2013 (PoppyDear)
Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/71071
Cleaning Reptile Cages . . . . . . cricket4u (M. Wiseman DVM) -- March 2012
Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/62822

Feeder Roaches: Care and Breeding , , , , , , Ozymandias -- February 2011
Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/53949
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#137---EarthPro-A (multivitamin/multi-mineral) & EarthPro Calcium + Magnesium

Available from LightYourReptiles.com in the USA and from Swell Reptiles in the UK.

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??? August 2017 comments from Zux (Shane) regarding Arcadia EarthPro's-A multivitamins/multimineral:
[*]"Arcadia EarthPro's-A multivitamin/multi-mineral video illustrates that much of the thinking behind liberal provision of vitamins and minerals in a natural manner is totally safe and something I feel very strongly is the future of supplementation in captivity.

"Relating back to our discussion surrounding Vitamin A provision and my thoughts surrounding liberal provision of 'the building blocks' of such in the form of carotenoids: The science team behind the product is confident that, in mimicking wild-like provision, any captive reptile irrespective of their requirements for such, can safely self-produce all they would need at any given time."

August 2017 comments from Zux (Shane) regarding Arcadia EarthPro's Calcium-Pro Magnesium supplement:
  • "The second video explains some of magnesium's role and why it so important to include magnesium along with calcium!

    "What is not covered sufficiently, and conveniently relates to our discussion regarding water treatments, is that Mg is found in great quantities in the majority of wild water supplies (among other sources) and something wild reptiles would all have access to in volume. This is a large part of why (along with the obvious lack of synthetic D3) the abundance of Ca in those wild diets never results in issues related to oversupply so often seen or feared in captivity.

    "Also of note here is how such provision can help alleviate any concern surrounding liberal provision of Ca in the diet or even within enclosures."
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Arcadia EarthPro's-A's multivitamin/multi-mineral

Potent carotenoids and bee pollen are used to cater safely for vitamin A and to aid digestion and growth. The product contains NO synthetics that can be easily over or under dosed. Importation from England has been approved by the FDA exclusively for LightYourReptiles.com!

We are excited to be able to offer such a high quality supplement. Especially since it contains bee pollen, a supplement that is naturally occurring in the diet of most reptiles and many amphibians.

Herbivorous reptiles ingest pollen in the plants and flowers they eat. Insectivorous and carnivorous get it either gut loaded in the prey items they eat or on the prey's bodies.

Bee pollen naturally has the following nutrients:

  • Vitamins: Provitamin A, B-1 Thiamin, B-2 Riboflavin, B-3 Niacin, B-5, B-6 Pyridoxine, B-12 (cyanocobalamine), Pantothenic acid, Vitamin C, F, Vitamin D, Vitamin E, Vitamin H, Vitamin K, Vitamin PP, Folic Acid, Choline, Inositol, Rutin.
  • Minerals: Calcium, Phosphorus, Potassium, Iron, Copper, Iodine, Zinc, Sulfur, Sodium, Chlorine, Magnesium, Manganese, Molybdenum, Selenium, Boron, Silica, and Titanium.
  • Other: Amino Acid, Carbohydrates, Fatty Acids, Enzymes & Co-Enzyimes, Fats.
  • Bee Pollen contains at least 22 amino acids, 18 vitamins, 25 minerals, 59 trace elements, 11 enzymes or co-enzymes, 14 fatty acids, 11 carbohydrates and approximately 25 % protein. Bee pollen is extremely rich in carotenes, which are metabolic precursors of vitamin A. It is also high In B complex and vitamins C, D, E and Lecithin.
Arcadia EarthPro's-A also contains mineral clay, a natural source of minerals along with protein powder for added vitality.

Try Arcadia EarthPro's-A today and you will be hooked. We recommend dusting 2 to 4 times a week with EarthPro-A.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#138---More Info -- Feb 2017
  • Consider buying this book: Reptile & Amphibian Nutrition . . . . . . by John Courtney-Smith, author
You're searching for a vitamin A acetate (retinol) source. That's pre-formed vitamin A. Vitamin A acetate helps a lizard metabolize the beta carotene (pro-formed vitamin A) in it's diet. Not the other way around.
Nutrobal is an excellent all-in-one multivitamin! It contains 46% precipitated calcium carbonate (not oyster shell calcium)! Give your new leo a better chance with Nutrobal!

The cricket/dubia diet I use right now is finely ground Zoo Med's Natural Adult Bearded Dragon Food. It's a great blend of ingredients.
  • Feeders: Feed the highest quality dry diet 24/7/365 that you can afford to cover the basics.
  • Supplement that dry diet with high calcium, low phosphorus, veggies (collards, dandelion flowers/greens, mustard, & turnip) greens, fresh carrots. & sweet potatoes.
  • A 24/7/365 dry diet should not include wheat germ or wheat bran. Wheat germ & wheat bran contain excessive phosphorus!
  • For juvie & sub-adult leos, males, & non-breeding female leos my Supplement Schedules (#124, 125, 126, 154, 155, & 156) suggest adequate calcium "dosages".
  • Excessive calcium in the digestive tract can hinder absorption of vitamins A & D!
  • "D3 serves the function of breaking down calcium. While this makes it an essential nutrient, it also means that too much D3 breaks down ALL the calcium, and results in just as severe a calcium deficiency as if your gecko wasn't being given any supplements.
    You should not dust with D3 more than about once per week. [Samurai Drifter -- Jan 2017]"
  • TetraMin Fish Flakes contain 47% protein! In 1988 TetraMin Fish Flakes were recommended to me as a cricket diet by a chameleon breeder who also suggested the kitten, cat, puppy, dog food samples pet stores give out. All bad information!
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
#139---Silver SulfaDiazine (SSD) 1% Creme . . . . . . Yossarian -- April 2017

"Silver SulfaDiazine (SSD) 1% Creme is a soft, white, water-miscible cream containing the antimicrobial agent silver sulfadiazine in micronized form.

SSD is contraindicated if a female is gravid/pregnant. A bactericidal glue exists that might be worth investigating.

"Each gram of SILVADENE Cream 1% contains 10 mg of micronized silver sulfadiazine. The cream vehicle consists of white petrolatum, stearyl alcohol, isopropyl myristate, sorbitan monooleate, polyoxyl 40 stearate, propylene glycol, and water, with methylparaben 0.3% as a preservative. Silvadene cream spreads easily and can be washed off readily with water."


Click & scroll to post 12: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...l-drop-help-please-2.html?highlight=Yossarian

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Neosporin WITHOUT pain relief contains:

"The active ingredients in Neosporin include neomycin, polymyxin and bacitracin. Inactive ingredients in Neosporin include cocoa butter, cottonseed oil, olive oil, sodium pyruvate, vitamin E and white petrolatum."

Yossarian comments:
  • "I think the fact that Silvadene is water miscible and easily washed off makes it a far superior choice over antibiotic ointments, even though both contain white petrolatum as part of their base."
  • "Neosporin or comparable ointment versus silvadene or comparable cream. I'm no expert, but from my investigation I'd go with a product that can be easily washed off as opposed to practically waterproof, as most triple antibiotic ointments are."
 
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