Getting Baby leopard gecko tomorrow..

xkellyyp

New member
I have two Golden geckos already but i'm getting a captive bred leopard gecko tomorrow. Just feel like checking just to make sure on what i should get equipment wise. ( size Aquarium,light,substrate etc..)
Also should i get a lid for the aquarium even though leopard geckos cant climb?
 

Pokeefe88

New member
Make sure to read through this http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...pard-gecko-care-recommendations-nutshell.html

Basics:
20 gal long tank to get the optimum heating gradient.
Under Tank Heater (UTH) Needs to be 1/3 of the tank.
Thermostat to control temp around 91-95 f
Digital Thermometer with probe on hot side to monitor temp.
Have something for the humidity level, I like to know what it is at all times.
Substrate: Slate tiles, 2.5 for 20 long tank Century tile will cut it for you, call ahead to make sure. I like slate tile because it is the best, no impaction absorbs the heat (takes about 3 hours to heat up)
Water bowl:Change water daily and clean the bowl 2 x a week, I use 1:3 of Vinegar:Water mix
Escape proof mealworm dish
Pure Calcium dish
Humid Hide
Hot Hide
Cool Hide
****

Pure Calcium
Calcium plus D3
Herpvit/ Multivit

Mealworms
Crickets
Gut loading supplies
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...rition/49403-feeder-insect-diets-gutload.html
Spring water, Dont use tap water.

Optional:
Temp gun
Feeding Tongs
Separate Feeding Tank (I use a kritter keeper)
*Lamp Fixture*
*Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE)*
*if needed to up ambient air temp*

I think thats everything I have/use/recommend.

I would set up the tank before getting the gecko so that you know everything is working. I had a few problems with my tank before I had everything in running order.

IE my heating pad didnt work (I bought my tank at a garage sale)
The tiles didn't fit (3)
Wasn't heating up to the correct temp, it varied too much, I have a dial thermostat. I can't just set it to 95 and be okay. Its like a dimmer switch.

You can read the thread that I posted: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...eublepharis/57312-my-first-leopard-gecko.html

You can see everything I went through. There's a lot of posts because I kept adding everything that happened for the first 3 weeks I had my Leo
 

Saskia

New member
I would add this:
How to pick the best leopard gecko??? Pet stores are known for not providing the best care to their animals, so, when you go make sure you select the best animal in order to decrease possibilities of getting a sick one, look for this signs: Eyes fully opened and clear, Fat tail (or at least not thin), complete toes, alive looking active gecko, bright colors (not greyish), nice looking skin (not with old shed attached), and I would suggest trying to get the biggest, if they have juveniles/sub adults even better, hatchlings have a bigger risk of being sick or eventually die, and also agree that it is better to have everything set up before getting the gecko, that way you make the moving in process faster and less stressfull for it, good luck!! and hope to see some pics very soon!! :)
 
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TifaBea

New member
I agree with Saskia. Because I live in an area where people don't breed leopards, I ended up going to a pet store.

When I found her, she was in the fake tree they had. I thought that she was smart for getting away from the others. I could be wrong but with so many in there with her, I figured it was good that she could get away. She was brightly colored and when the lady put her on me she was friendly. I was scared because she was tiny and they can stress easy, but she ended up a great gecko.
 

M&S-328

New member
A lid is not "necessary" but if you ever end up needing a secondary heating source (such as a dome light) it will be cheaper to get a screen lid that you can place the dome lamp on top of instead of buying a whole stand for the light fixture (and that takes up a lot more space too).
Also, if you have any other pets in the house, or if you ever get mice (or other pests) then it would be safest to get a lid to help prevent any damage to your new leo.

Basically, The true necessities are...

1. A 10-20 gal aquarium
2. a UTH that covers 1/3 of the bottom of the tank
3. A safe substrate - such as paper towels, slate/tiles, or repticarpet (no matter what the people selling you the leo say, DO NOT get sand/calci-sand, wood chips/shavings, dirt, or any other loose substrates!).
4. Feeders - crickets that are no bigger than the length across the leo's head/appropriately sized mealworms/appropriately sized dubia roaches.
5. A probed thermometer (typically digital - which is best).
6. The proper calcium and vitamins - pure calcium to be left in tank with it, calcium with D3 to be dusted onto feeders 2-3 times a week, repti-vitamins for leos.
7. A semi-shallow water dish (no deeper than 1.5 inches).
8. A calcium dish (a bottle cap can be used for this).
9. An escape-proof mealworm dish - if you plan to feed your leos mealworms. (Dishes are typically ceramic).
10. At least 2 hides - 1 must be a humid hide packed with a thick layer of wet/moist sphagnum moss (recommended on the hot side).
11. Sphagnum moss
12. Natural and leo safe decor. (Never use anything you find outside unless you soak and wash thoroughly or bake thoroughly).

Thats all I can think of off the top of my head. I hope that helps! Be sure to ask any more questions you have!

Good luck
 

xkellyyp

New member
Here she is! i named her Yoshi. Can someone tell me what morph she is? she's beautiful!

1fbioo.jpg


sd33mc.jpg
 
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Yoshi'smom

New member
Hey!! Your little one looks mostly to be normal but I'm not any good with morphs so someone else may be able to help you better than I can! On a side note: My 2 year old boy (who is a normal) is also named Yoshi! What a great name!!
 
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