Best source of vitamin D
- Thread starter Vee-vee
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Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
I totally agree with Doublet74 for the exact same reasons. All bright lights are hard on the leo's eyes, at the least from the stress factor.
Yoshi'smom
New member
+ 1 on the two previous posts.
I use both UV light and vitamin D powder, but powder is the main source.
In nature they have the possibility to go out in sunlight, and I'm all about naturalistic setup, so I like to give them this possibility in captivity as well.
Only one of my leos are out at day, so they don't use it much.
In nature they have the possibility to go out in sunlight, and I'm all about naturalistic setup, so I like to give them this possibility in captivity as well.
Only one of my leos are out at day, so they don't use it much.
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
I recommend replacing that 40W bulb with a bulb which produces red light of whatever wattage you need. If you need to go to a higher wattage to find a bulb, then plug the bulb into a dimmer to adjust down the heat. Many folks totally heat their leos with an Under Tank Heater (UTH).
Vee-vee ~ How are you checking the cage temperature?
Here is a quote from my leo recommendations:
"A 20 gallon long tank (30 inches long x ~12 inches x ~12 inches) is the best choice to maintain the thermal gradient you want: 90-95 F/32.5-35 C on the warm side to 70ish F/21 C on the cool side. The lighting/heating can be turned off at night if room temperatures do not fall lower than about 65-67 F/18.5-19.5 C. This tank will make a leopard gecko or a pair happy for life! With a standard 10 gallon or even a 15 gallon long tank, it is difficult if not impossible to maintain the required thermal gradient.
An infrared red or other red lightbulb is good because it allows you to see your leo and can provide some heat. Ceramic Heat Emitters last longer and may be more penetrating, but they only emit heat. Many folks combine Under Tank Heating with overhead heating/lighting. It is recommended that the UTH be 1/3 the length of your tank. Overhead wattages vary depending upon the ambient room temperatures. Do NOT use standard white incandescent bulbs, white compact fluorescent bulbs, or fluorescent strip lighting. Any of those are much too bright for your nocturnal leo's eyes. Leopard geckos do not require UV lighting.
When using only overhead lighting/heating with a paper towel substrate, it is good idea to place slate tile on the warm third of the cage over the paper towels and especially under the moist hide for better belly heat absorption.
When considering the UTH (1/3 the length of a 30 inch long tank---not the UTH for "regular" 10-20 gallon tanks because it is the actual length that is important), you need unobstructed ventilation underneath the tank. This can be achieved by placing the tank on a wrought iron stand or somehow elevating the tank all the way around. My wrought iron stand supports the periphery of the tank but is completely open on the bottom.
As an alternative heat source: Flexwatt Heat Tape is the industry standard heating method!
Buy a thermostat to control your UTH and to prevent accidental overheating. These are good ones: BAH-1000DC Reptile Thermostat New Model - Incredibly Reliable Digital Chip for Accurate Temperature Control or Amazon.com: Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat For Heat Mats: Patio, Lawn & Garden."
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Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Is your yellow bulb a regular incandescent bulb with a yellow coating? When you compare it to a white bulb of the same wattage does it seem "less bright" to you?
A little thermometer may not be all that accurate? Does it have red fluid that goes up and down with the temperature? A digital thermometer is much better.
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Yes, there can be problems both ways with vitamin D3...too little or too much. I don't know the recommended daily dose of vitamin D3 for geckos. I do know, that with the phosphorous-free vitamin D3 calcium products available in the USA and Canada, only a "light dusting" of crickets, grasshoppers, prey, 2 not more than 3, times per week is recommended. I use the Rep-Cal product which has a pink label. It has been around a long time.
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Vee-vee
New member
I use exo terra multivitamins (Exo Terra : Calcium / Calcium Powder Supplement mixed with Exo Terra : Multi Vitamin / Multi Vitamin Powder Supplement) and I dose 2 crickets 2 times a week. Can you tell me if it is right?
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
2 times per week does sound alright...but read further.
I really just use the calcium with D3 regularly. Maybe I dust with the combo calcium with D3 and Herptivite once a month. Never use any multivitamin every time I dust.
(Don't know whether you have ever tried any of those online tranlators like Babel
? When I once did, I was not all that impressed with the translation.)That 1:1 mixture is the exact same ratio that Rep Cal states for their calcium with D3 plus their multivitamin Herptivite with Beta Carotene.
However, the Exo Terra calcium product says low phosphorous. Because feeder insects are particularly high in phosphorous and because phosphorous interferes with the absorption of the calcium, posphorous is NOT recommended in the supplements we use. Our goal is to have our feeder insects meet a 1.5-2.0 ratio of calcium to phosphorous. We dust to correct the natural "overbalance" of phosphorous.
It is also difficult to get the "dust" to really stick on the roaches.
PS:
Although the Exo Terra calcium supplement states "low phosphorus", I don't see any phosphorus in the ingredient listing. However, this calcium supplement does NOT contain D3.
The Exo Terra multivitamin supplement does contain D3.
D3 is essential in the metabolism of the calcium! Some folks do not use vitamin supplements all that much. All feedback from members will be appreciated.
I like the way Rep Cal does this better ;-). Check out their pink label, blue label, and green label. Amazon.com is one resource.
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Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
In the Exo Terra multivitamin there is not very much calcium...very low percentage.
You could check out the levels in the Rep Cal products online to compare them with Exo Terra.
Since this Exo Terra calcium product has no D3 I would definitely mix them together 1:1 as directed and dust 2x per week like you have been doing.
On the other hand, 100% pure calcium is recommended for a small dish in your leo's cage 24/7.
I have heard bad news about using sepia bone...used to do that...don't know whether the news has been confirmed.
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MauricesExoticPets
New member
Dietary Supplement Fact Sheet: Vitamin D
The above link is a good refresher on how Vitamin D works and while not directly related to geckos (leopard geckos in particular), it does let you know that exact dosing is not something that could be answered without knowing your particular geckos situation.
In most peoples experience, lightly dusting feeder insects with a phosphorous free calcium dust that contains vitamin D3 works. Several products have differing levels of the vitamin, yet no real issues seem to be found with any of them as far as quantity of D3 goes.
There is a relationship between available calcium and phosphorous to vitamin D3 needs, but there is a wide margin of safety that makes it somewhat less of an issue to fret over.
The popular method of leaving a small dish of powdered calcium in the geckos enclosure is to allow the gecko to adjust its overall calcium intake as needed. This dish of calcium should be vitamin D3 free.
Your best way of knowing if there is too little vitamin D3 is to learn how to identify MBD as early as possible, MBD Metabolic Bone Disorder in leopard geckos shows up when they are not getting enough calcium, or their calcium to phosphorous intake ratio is outside of the established 1.5:1 - 2:1 range combined with too little or too much vitamin D3.
I do not supplement extra vitamins and minerals using a dust, I provide all required nutrients via my feeder insects and their diets, using just phosphorous free calcium with vitamin D3 to correct their calcium to phosphorous ratio with a light dustingat every feeding. Additional phosphorous free calcium in a dish inside the enclosure is used from time to time, but not excessively so.
I believe light dusting is the trick here, you are not looking for powdered sugar cookie type coating, you are looking for the I just washed my car and two days later if I wipe a finger across it I can notice its dusty sort of light dusting.
Maurice Pudlo
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Hi Maurice ~
Kudos for this information and providing helpful links!
Just one question: In your post above you mention that you lightly dust your geckos' prey with phosphorous-free calcium with D3 at every feeding. Is that based upon maybe 3 feedings per week or so? Just wondering about the weekly frequency...in small geckos the margin for error decreases.
Kudos for this information and providing helpful links
!Just one question: In your post above you mention that you lightly dust your geckos' prey with phosphorous-free calcium with D3 at every feeding. Is that based upon maybe 3 feedings per week or so? Just wondering about the weekly frequency...in small geckos the margin for error decreases.