Leopard gecko eating, but not pooping.

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cwatkins

New member
Hello,
I recently got a leopard gecko for Christmas that is 9 months old. When I first got him he was pooping regularly, but not eating. I am assuming he was pooping out the food he had consumed previously with his new owner. The owner told me that they fed him superworms and the odd cricket, however I looked up their diet and asked around and found out the superworms are very hard on their digestive system so I decided to try meal worms. Hades (the gecko) refused to eat the mealworms for about a week, he would look at them and lick them but not consume them. Then I went to a petstore and asked what got some butterworms to try and fatten him up abit, for his tail didnt seem as large as the ones in alot of pictures of healthy geckos that I had looked up. It wasnt shrivelled by far, just not as round. He ate a few of these butter worms, however they are very expensive, and fatty so I knew I should not use these as a primary diet. Next, I decided to try crickets. When I got these crickets and fed them to him, he ate! I guess maybe he is just picky and does not like meal worms, that was the only reasoning I could come up with. Now he has been eating 3-4 crickets every second day, with the odd butterworm snuck in there too. I am covering his crickets with a mixture of reptile multiivitamin and calcium with no phosphorus and with D3 and gut loading them with carrots, potatos and apples (this is what the cricket breeder told me to feed them).
So thats the story of my cricket... Now here is the problem..
Since Ive been feeding him these crickets and butter worms he has pooped twice, the poop looks completely different then when I first got him and he was pooping, but I also changed his diet, and his substrate (what the originally owner had him in) from sand to reptile carpet since I also read that sand is not good for them, and can cause impaction if consumed, so Im guessing this is why the poop looks different, now it looks like what a healthy geckos poop should look like, or atleast thats what I got from pictures off the internet. He has been eating steady now since about Jan 3rd, and has pooped twice. I am very worried. His stomach does not feel hard, or atleast I dont think so.. He also remains in his humid hide all day (which I know is normal since they are nocturnal) and all night, I have seen him out of his hide three times in the month that I have had him.. and the bottom of his humid hide seems cold since it has a wet papertowel on the bottom and isnt directly on the floor. I have the hot side of his tank to be about 90-95.. I have a heat lamp, which is what I use. I have a reptile heat pad as well, but whenever I use it the tank gets too warm.
Any ideas on what this could be? If he is eating enough? Why he wont ever leave his humid hide? Also, would he be considered a juvinelle or a adult since he is 9 months old? I was just curious as what to classify him as.
Thanks.
 

cwatkins

New member
Hello,
I recently got a leopard gecko for Christmas that is 9 months old. When I first got him he was pooping regularly, but not eating. I am assuming he was pooping out the food he had consumed previously with his new owner. The owner told me that they fed him superworms and the odd cricket, however I looked up their diet and asked around and found out the superworms are very hard on their digestive system so I decided to try meal worms. Hades (the gecko) refused to eat the mealworms for about a week, he would look at them and lick them but not consume them. Then I went to a petstore and asked what got some butterworms to try and fatten him up abit, for his tail didnt seem as large as the ones in alot of pictures of healthy geckos that I had looked up. It wasnt shrivelled by far, just not as round. He ate a few of these butter worms, however they are very expensive, and fatty so I knew I should not use these as a primary diet. Next, I decided to try crickets. When I got these crickets and fed them to him, he ate! I guess maybe he is just picky and does not like meal worms, that was the only reasoning I could come up with. Now he has been eating 3-4 crickets every second day, with the odd butterworm snuck in there too. I am covering his crickets with a mixture of reptile multiivitamin and calcium with no phosphorus and with D3 and gut loading them with carrots, potatos and apples (this is what the cricket breeder told me to feed them).
So thats the story of my cricket... Now here is the problem..
Since Ive been feeding him these crickets and butter worms he has pooped twice, the poop looks completely different then when I first got him and he was pooping, but I also changed his diet, and his substrate (what the originally owner had him in) from sand to reptile carpet since I also read that sand is not good for them, and can cause impaction if consumed, so Im guessing this is why the poop looks different, now it looks like what a healthy geckos poop should look like, or atleast thats what I got from pictures off the internet. He has been eating steady now since about Jan 3rd, and has pooped twice. I am very worried. His stomach does not feel hard, or atleast I dont think so.. He also remains in his humid hide all day (which I know is normal since they are nocturnal) and all night, I have seen him out of his hide three times in the month that I have had him.. and the bottom of his humid hide seems cold since it has a wet papertowel on the bottom and isnt directly on the floor. I have the hot side of his tank to be about 90-95.. I have a heat lamp, which is what I use. I have a reptile heat pad as well, but whenever I use it the tank gets too warm.
Any ideas on what this could be? If he is eating enough? Why he wont ever leave his humid hide? Also, would he be considered a juvinelle or a adult since he is 9 months old? I was just curious as what to classify him as.
Thanks.

I know thats a really long message.. So if you dont want to read that heres the short version...
My gecko has aten probably about 20 crickets, and 7-10 butterworms in the past 3 weeks, and has pooped twice. Rarely leaves his humid hide, and his hot end of the tank is 90-95 degrees..

Im just new to having a gecko, and am very concerned. I just want him to have the happiest and healthiest life possible since he will be alive for a very long time with me..
 

cassicat4

New member
Do you have pictures of your gecko and setup?

Can you provide a rundown of your enclosure including temps and humidity? What do you use to measure both? You mentioned 90-95, but is that the basking spot, or ambient temp? What size of enclosure are you using?

Lack of bowel movements can indicate numerous things - illness, stress, improper digestion due to improper temps or humidity, inappropriate or too large of prey offered, impaction from substrate or too large of prey offered or improper temps, etc.

In order to gauge what's going on, we'll need a bit more info on your situation.

Not leaving the humid hide could also indicate problems with temperature or humidity.
 

cwatkins

New member
Do you have pictures of your gecko and setup?

Can you provide a rundown of your enclosure including temps and humidity? What do you use to measure both? You mentioned 90-95, but is that the basking spot, or ambient temp? What size of enclosure are you using?

Lack of bowel movements can indicate numerous things - illness, stress, improper digestion due to improper temps or humidity, inappropriate or too large of prey offered, impaction from substrate or too large of prey offered or improper temps, etc.

In order to gauge what's going on, we'll need a bit more info on your situation.

Not leaving the humid hide could also indicate problems with temperature or humidity.

I am currently stuck away from my gecko, but I found a picture online of the same tank that I use, it just has different items inside since I dont know the exact size of it. The temperature measured is the basking temp of the floor of the carpet (thats where I placed the thermometer since I figured thats what he is touching), I asked the petstore guy if it was necessary for me to buy two thermometers so I could measure the opposite corner of the tank of the heat lamp but he said it was not necessary.
In the enclosure, I have reptile carpet for the substrate (changed it from sand that the previous owners used), a humid hide on the warm side, and a dry hide of the cool side, two med-lg size plants, a rock and a fake stump along with a water bowl, and no foam in the back (the previous owners fed him super worms and they ended up infesting the foam so I had to throw it out).
 

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Embrace Calamity

New member
You need to add a dry hide on the warm side. Without one, the gecko has three choices: stay where it's too cold, stay out in the open and risk being eaten, or stay in the humid hide and suffer with high humidity when it doesn't need it. Put a dry hide over the UTH and put the humid hide in the middle of the gradient.

Also, that tank is kind of useless for leopard geckos, since they don't really climb much. They need more floor space than anything. Those kinds of tanks are made for climbing herps like arboreal geckos and tree frogs. You'd be much better off getting a 20 long so that you can provide a good temp gradient. I'd be concerned that there isn't a very good gradient in your setup.

As a note, don't listen to pet store people. They might mean well, but the fact of the matter is most of them have limited (if any) experience or knowledge. Many people (including myself) have taken advice from pet store people and ended up with sick, injured, or dead reptiles. I know of one person whose gecko had MBD, and the pet store diagnosed it as a calcium overdose and told him to stop giving any - which obviously would have killed it eventually.

Hopefully the other person can give you some more ideas and suggestions. Just my two cents. :)

~Maggot
 

cwatkins

New member
You need to add a dry hide on the warm side. Without one, the gecko has three choices: stay where it's too cold, stay out in the open and risk being eaten, or stay in the humid hide and suffer with high humidity when it doesn't need it. Put a dry hide over the UTH and put the humid hide in the middle of the gradient.

Also, that tank is kind of useless for leopard geckos, since they don't really climb much. They need more floor space than anything. Those kinds of tanks are made for climbing herps like arboreal geckos and tree frogs. You'd be much better off getting a 20 long so that you can provide a good temp gradient. I'd be concerned that there isn't a very good gradient in your setup.

As a note, don't listen to pet store people. They might mean well, but the fact of the matter is most of them have limited (if any) experience or knowledge. Many people (including myself) have taken advice from pet store people and ended up with sick, injured, or dead reptiles. I know of one person whose gecko had MBD, and the pet store diagnosed it as a calcium overdose and told him to stop giving any - which obviously would have killed it eventually.

Hopefully the other person can give you some more ideas and suggestions. Just my two cents. :)

~Maggot
Thanks! Yeah I know I need a longer one, that is just the tank that he had come with.. (I got him off of kijiji), and I am currently a student, and tanks are expensive... my plan was to try and wait until May, when I start working so I can get him a proper one.. It is sad, but I just currently don't have the funds for another cage since they run for about 200$ around here... I will try the dry hide on the warm side.. It may be abit crowded, but he can still climb ontop of them too right? Also, he doesnt really come out anyways unless I force him to get out abit, by removing his hides.. I read somewhere on here that you could do that if they dont come out much? Thanks though! any ideas about the pooping thing?

Oh and I forgot to mention that I use a basking heat lamp instead of a heat pad underneath. It doesnt keep the tank warm enough by itself, and makes it too hot when they are both on.
 
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cwatkins

New member
Here is an actual picture of my enclosure. I just removed the calcium dish since I just read the too much D3 can cause constipation and I originally had calcium with D3. I am going to get pure calcium this week. Does it need to be specific reptile calcium or can I just buy regular stuff?

The large hide is the humid one, and smaller one the dry one. I would obviously have to re arrange the tank and have it very crowded if I was to get the third hide, or atleast have it that way until I can afford a larger one. You can also see a tinge of red light which is approx. where the heat lamp is above. I use window light to give the day light so it is realistic, or if it is cloudy I put my room light on.
 

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Embrace Calamity

New member
Here is an actual picture of my enclosure. I just removed the calcium dish since I just read the too much D3 can cause constipation and I originally had calcium with D3. I am going to get pure calcium this week. Does it need to be specific reptile calcium or can I just buy regular stuff?
I believe so. I just use Repashy, which covers all of the gecko's needs. I've never had to worry about using more than one supplement.
The large hide is the humid one, and smaller one the dry one. I would obviously have to re arrange the tank and have it very crowded if I was to get the third hide, or atleast have it that way until I can afford a larger one. You can also see a tinge of red light which is approx. where the heat lamp is above. I use window light to give the day light so it is realistic, or if it is cloudy I put my room light on.
You can just use a Tupperware container for the humid hide. It'd take up less space than that. Also, I wouldn't suggest a red light. It's just an unnatural color light for them, and if that's what you're using, that very well might be why your gecko is hiding all the time.

I'm a little confused how your temp gradient works. It looks like the light is in the center, so where's the hot side and the cool side?
Thanks! Yeah I know I need a longer one, that is just the tank that he had come with.. (I got him off of kijiji), and I am currently a student, and tanks are expensive... my plan was to try and wait until May, when I start working so I can get him a proper one.. It is sad, but I just currently don't have the funds for another cage since they run for about 200$ around here...
Small fish tanks run $200? I'd suggest looking for a used one. Many people have old fish tanks they need rid of.
Also, he doesnt really come out anyways unless I force him to get out abit, by removing his hides.. I read somewhere on here that you could do that if they dont come out much? Thanks though! any ideas about the pooping thing?
Well, yeah, if you remove the hides, obviously it's not going to be able to hide any more and will be forced out. I wouldn't recommend it, though. Stressing out a gecko that's having any issues at all isn't a good idea. It doesn't matter whether it comes out or not; all that matters is it's healthy. May I ask why you feel the need to force him out?
Oh and I forgot to mention that I use a basking heat lamp instead of a heat pad underneath. It doesnt keep the tank warm enough by itself, and makes it too hot when they are both on.
It is generally suggested to use a heat pad when possible, as most people agree that leos require belly heat to properly digest their food and thus defecate. (I'm not a vet so I can't personally say whether this is true or not, but it definitely can't hurt.) So I'd suggest using that. If the heat bulb and UTH make it too hot, then you could try switching to a regular light bulb - it puts off some heat, but not as much as a heat bulb. Or get a lower wattage heat bulb or a low wattage ceramic heat emitter (which you could use during the day and at night).

~Maggot
 

cwatkins

New member
I believe so. I just use Repashy, which covers all of the gecko's needs. I've never had to worry about using more than one supplement.
You can just use a Tupperware container for the humid hide. It'd take up less space than that. Also, I wouldn't suggest a red light. It's just an unnatural color light for them, and if that's what you're using, that very well might be why your gecko is hiding all the time.

I'm a little confused how your temp gradient works. It looks like the light is in the center, so where's the hot side and the cool side? Small fish tanks run $200? I'd suggest looking for a used one. Many people have old fish tanks they need rid of.Well, yeah, if you remove the hides, obviously it's not going to be able to hide any more and will be forced out. I wouldn't recommend it, though. Stressing out a gecko that's having any issues at all isn't a good idea. It doesn't matter whether it comes out or not; all that matters is it's healthy. May I ask why you feel the need to force him out?
It is generally suggested to use a heat pad when possible, as most people agree that leos require belly heat to properly digest their food and thus defecate. (I'm not a vet so I can't personally say whether this is true or not, but it definitely can't hurt.) So I'd suggest using that. If the heat bulb and UTH make it too hot, then you could try switching to a regular light bulb - it puts off some heat, but not as much as a heat bulb. Or get a lower wattage heat bulb or a low wattage ceramic heat emitter (which you could use during the day and at night).

~Maggot

The light isnt in the middle, its in the corner, I though that would be the best arrangement to give the heat gradient, sorry I should have made that clear. And I tried to remove his hides to make him come out because I was scared that if he remained in there that he wouldnt get enough exercise and would become over weight.. I used to have a guinea pig and I had to do that with him to get him to run around a bit because he got very chubby... Also, when I remove his hides he goes directly under the heat lamp and lays flat so his stomach is touching the warm repti carpet so I thought that would help his digestion and perhaps make him poop more.
And I didnt look at fish tanks, just the exo terra tanks that they had in the petstore since that is the same brand that he had come with.
Sorry, I dont know how to multi quote so this is all I could manage. I am still very new to this.
 

Embrace Calamity

New member
The light isnt in the middle, its in the corner, I though that would be the best arrangement to give the heat gradient, sorry I should have made that clear. And I tried to remove his hides to make him come out because I was scared that if he remained in there that he wouldnt get enough exercise and would become over weight.. I used to have a guinea pig and I had to do that with him to get him to run around a bit because he got very chubby...
He's a gecko, not a guinea pig. Those are two very different animals, so don't do anything based on what you did with a guinea pig. If you're concerned about your gecko becoming overweight, then just make sure your temps are right and don't feed a ton (but from what I could see, its weight looks fine). Leos evolved to survive by hiding; by taking that away, you're threatening its ability to survive, which is only going to stress it out.
Also, when I remove his hides he goes directly under the heat lamp and lays flat so his stomach is touching the warm repti carpet so I thought that would help his digestion and perhaps make him poop more.
The carpet doesn't hold heat well at all; that's nothing compared to a UTH. It's just trying to make due with what you're providing. I would say it's possible, given your setup, that your gecko isn't defecating because it's not getting warm enough to digest its food properly because it's choosing security over proper temperatures. If you put a dry hide over the UTH, the gecko can feel secure without having to sacrifice the heat it needs. Your setup should be such that your gecko can self-regulate without you having to interfere except to feed, clean, and do basic maintenance.
And I didnt look at fish tanks, just the exo terra tanks that they had in the petstore since that is the same brand that he had come with.
Forget Exo Terra. They're great for certain reptiles, but imo, they're not worth the extra money for leos. You can buy ones that are more terrestrially-oriented, but there's still going to be height that's going to be wasted. Just buy a 20 long aquarium (or 30 or 40 if you really want to go all out) and put hides everywhere you can. The more hides you give, the more secure your gecko will feel and the more options you provide for it to find the healthiest place. The most important thing for keeping herps is options. They know what's best for them, so give them choices galore and let them decide.

Also, get a digital thermometer, not the analog you have. They're known to be very off. A temp gun would be good too. (Digital thermometers measure the air temps where the probes are placed, whereas temp guns measure the actual surface temperature.)

~Maggot
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Just stopping by to say Hello!

Vitamin/calcium recs:
Pure calcium carbonate in small bottlecap in tank 24/7

Either lightly dust prey 2x per week with Reptivite with D3/vitamin A acetate

OR

1x per week with Reptivite with D3/vitamin A acetate
1x per week with Zoo Med's calcium with D3

Don't know whether Repashy Calcium Plus contains vitamin A acetate which is important for eye health.

Exo Terra does make a front opening tank 36 x 18 x 12 inches high. Just priced that one...$200. Petco has a $1 per gallon sale several times a year.

Please check the Leo Caresheet linked in my signature below. It is super thorough and has several different vitamin/calcium scenarios.
 
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Embrace Calamity

New member
Don't know whether Repashy Calcium Plus contains vitamin A acetate which is important for eye health.
Yes, it does. That's why I usually suggest it for people - it includes everything and is meant to use for dusting with every feeding. No multiple supplements, no schedules, nothing to worry about. :)

PetCo just closed their $1/gallon sale a few days ago, I believe, but I saw an ad for PetSmart having a sale right now, so maybe they do the same thing. I don't know. 20 longs aren't that expensive anyway (certainly less than $200), even when they're not on sale.

~Maggot
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Yes, it does. That's why I usually suggest it for people - it includes everything and is meant to use for dusting with every feeding. No multiple supplements, no schedules, nothing to worry about. :)

PetCo just closed their $1/gallon sale a few days ago, I believe, but I saw an ad for PetSmart having a sale right now, so maybe they do the same thing. I don't know. 20 longs aren't that expensive anyway (certainly less than $200), even when they're not on sale.

~Maggot

Maggot ~

By some chance might you get the Petsmart sale dates? Also a $ per gallon? I'd like to post it on the forums.

A couple people I know are not fans of Repashy Calcium Plus.
 

Embrace Calamity

New member
Maggot ~

By some chance might you get the Petsmart sale dates? Also a $ per gallon? I'd like to post it on the forums.

A couple people I know are not fans of Repashy Calcium Plus.
Sorry, I don't know. I honestly don't think I've ever even been to a Pet Smart.

Really? Everyone I know really likes it. I know several who've seen great improvements in their geckos after switching to it. But, hey, everyone has their preferences.

~Maggot
 

Corwin's Keeper

New member
PetSmart & Repasy

By some chance might you get the Petsmart sale dates? Also a $ per gallon? I'd like to post it on the forums.

Attached is what I found in my PetSmart ad (from the website). Says the sale runs through Feb 03, 2013.

Yes, it does. That's why I usually suggest it for people - it includes everything and is meant to use for dusting with every feeding. No multiple supplements, no schedules, nothing to worry about. :)

I thought dusting every feeding was not recommended? I tried to see if Repashy Calcium Plus contains D3 (don't want an overdose!) but couldn't find anything.

I will try to look a little more and let you know if I find something.

(As always, if any of this information is incorrect, please feel free to chime in!!);-)
 

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cricket4u

New member
Attached is what I found in my PetSmart ad (from the website). Says the sale runs through Feb 03, 2013.



I thought dusting every feeding was not recommended? I tried to see if Repashy Calcium Plus contains D3 (don't want an overdose!) but couldn't find anything.

I will try to look a little more and let you know if I find something.

(As always, if any of this information is incorrect, please feel free to chime in!!);-)
So you can compare.:)
Repashy Superfoods :: RETAIL SALES :: By Product Name :: Calcium Plus :: Calcium Plus 4 oz BAG - Repashy Ventures - Distributor Center
 

Embrace Calamity

New member
I thought dusting every feeding was not recommended? I tried to see if Repashy Calcium Plus contains D3 (don't want an overdose!) but couldn't find anything.

I will try to look a little more and let you know if I find something.

(As always, if any of this information is incorrect, please feel free to chime in!!);-)
Quote from my bottle:

"Leopard Gecko Calcium Plus is designed to be used every feeding."

It does contain D3, but I'd imagine it would probably be in smaller doses than others, since it's designed to use every feeding.

~Maggot
 

cwatkins

New member
Okay, I will try Repashy, hopefully they have it at my petstore, we only have Petcetera and Pets Unlimited here... So this is the only powder I need to use? I wouldn't need the multivitamin either?
Also, do you guys think I should take him to a vet? I am just worried about the drive, it would be a 2.5 hour drive to get to a vet that accepts reptiles around here.. and I dont want to stress him out anymore then he already has been, especially since three weeks ago he had to make that same drive in order to get here... I really just want to do everything I can to make his life the most peaceful...
I just have to wait a bit until I can get a new tank for him, then I plan on getting the tiles to put in, I just don't want to get tiles and install if Im going to get a new tank very shortly anyways.. I found a 20 gallon long fish tank for 50, so I may try that one if it is still available.

Also, he isnt the greatest hunter, so whenever I feed him I remove all his stuff in the tank inorder to stop the crickets from hiding since I dont have any other container that the crickets wont escape from that I can use for feeding. And how many should he be eating? Often he eats one or two right away, then quickly looses interest, and stops hunting quickly... Normally the most he will eat is 4 every second day.. Is that enough?
 

Embrace Calamity

New member
Okay, I will try Repashy, hopefully they have it at my petstore, we only have Petcetera and Pets Unlimited here... So this is the only powder I need to use? I wouldn't need the multivitamin either?
Well I'm new here and don't want to step on any toes, but it's what I personally recommend, and everyone I know that uses it really likes it. If you use it, you won't need anything else. It covers everything. Most people that use it don't even leave any calcium in the enclosure (except breeding females) because they don't need it, but it wouldn't hurt.

Also, do you guys think I should take him to a vet? I am just worried about the drive, it would be a 2.5 hour drive to get to a vet that accepts reptiles around here.. and I dont want to stress him out anymore then he already has been, especially since three weeks ago he had to make that same drive in order to get here... I really just want to do everything I can to make his life the most peaceful...
I just have to wait a bit until I can get a new tank for him, then I plan on getting the tiles to put in, I just don't want to get tiles and install if Im going to get a new tank very shortly anyways.. I found a 20 gallon long fish tank for 50, so I may try that one if it is still available.
I'm not going to comment on the vet, but make sure you make what changes you can now. He needs that UTH under his hide so he can get belly heat. He's probably not warm enough. When you first got him, did he eat and defecate fine?
Also, he isnt the greatest hunter, so whenever I feed him I remove all his stuff in the tank inorder to stop the crickets from hiding since I dont have any other container that the crickets wont escape from that I can use for feeding. And how many should he be eating? Often he eats one or two right away, then quickly looses interest, and stops hunting quickly... Normally the most he will eat is 4 every second day.. Is that enough?
That doesn't sound like much to me. But if he's not defecating, he's not going to each much.

~Maggot
 

cricket4u

New member
Quote from my bottle:

"Leopard Gecko Calcium Plus is designed to be used every feeding."

It does contain D3, but I'd imagine it would probably be in smaller doses than others, since it's designed to use every feeding.

~Maggot

You'd think, but no. Look at the last pages of Elizabeth's caresheet and compare the amounts with other brands.
 
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