Hi I'm new here and I've had me gecko about 4 weeks unsure of age or sex as got at pet shop and they didn't seem to know anything. Anyway my tank is about 20 x 12 x 12 I'm getting a bigger one I have 3 hides one moist one warm and one cool pure calcium in tank and I dust with reptivite with d3 twice a week. My temps are 90-95 f on the warm side and stay about 80 on the cool side. My gecko shed the first day I got it and got some stuck in its eye I followed advice I read here and helped it out with saline. It has happened again but even after removing it from both eyes my poor gecko still seems to have no aim and has trouble catching food and so will only eat mealworms. I took it to the vet who said there are no parasites or infections or anything just wondering what else I can do to help?
Hi new owner gecko has eye problem?
- Thread starter kirst
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Embrace Calamity
New member
Do they look abnormal at all or is it just the behaviour that concerns you? Is it albino? Also, I assume this is a leo?
~Maggot
~Maggot
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Greetings to GU. Hope that you are looking forward to meeting some of us :biggrin:!
Is this a leopard gecko? What are you feeding him?
Have you the warm moist hide on/near the warm end of the tank? Are you keeping it moist 24/7? A gecko uses that for shedding assist as well as hydration.
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Hi sorry yes a Leo. I have the warm moist hide in the middle but more over the warm side. It eats about 10-15 mealworms but won't eat crickets even if I take the back legs off. I had to remove shed from both eyes last night and I'm wondering if that's what is putting its balance off. It seems to bump into things and its aim is terrible. The eyes look a lot better today. Ill find out if there is improvement to aim later but this is the second time and I've only had it a few weeks. Just want to know if there any way of helping this so it don't keep happening? Also was skinny when I got it but is getting fatter slowly.
Embrace Calamity
New member
Did you remove all of the stuck shed, or is there still some left? Also, fill out what you can of this:
Gender:
Age:
Weight:
How big was the reptile when you first acquired it?
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner):
Captive bred or wild caught?
Do you handle him? If so how often?
Enclosure:
Cage: type, size:
Substrate provided?
What types of hiding places are provided?
Is there a humidity hide? location?
Please describe any other furnishings:
Lighting:
Artificial lighting?
incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s) ?
fluorescent (tube bulbs)?
Temperature:
Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? what type?
What is the temperature in the warm part of the cage? under the warm hide? In the coolest part?
What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature? hot rock, UTH, heat light, ceramic heater, other:
Are you using a thermostat?
Which hide does she/he spend most of her time?
Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much?
Humidity:
Is the humidity measured? Range:
List other animals that are kept in the same cage:
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months)
Are any of your other pets ill?
List recent changes in the environment, if any:
Diet:
Insects, list type?
Are they “gut loaded”? If so with?
How often do you feed your reptile?
Please list any supplements used. How are they given and how often?
What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both?
Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without?
Multivitamins?
Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet:
If your reptile is sick, please describe the signs and how long your reptile has been showing these signs:
Is your reptile’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased?
Is your reptile’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased?
Have you noticed any of the following?
Weight loss, Weight gain
Discharge from the eyes or nose
Increased breathing rate or effort
Change in the droppings
urates white or yellowish
Abnormal skin color or shedding
Parasites on the skin or in the feces
Weakness
~Maggot
Gender:
Age:
Weight:
How big was the reptile when you first acquired it?
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner):
Captive bred or wild caught?
Do you handle him? If so how often?
Enclosure:
Cage: type, size:
Substrate provided?
What types of hiding places are provided?
Is there a humidity hide? location?
Please describe any other furnishings:
Lighting:
Artificial lighting?
incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s) ?
fluorescent (tube bulbs)?
Temperature:
Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? what type?
What is the temperature in the warm part of the cage? under the warm hide? In the coolest part?
What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature? hot rock, UTH, heat light, ceramic heater, other:
Are you using a thermostat?
Which hide does she/he spend most of her time?
Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much?
Humidity:
Is the humidity measured? Range:
List other animals that are kept in the same cage:
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months)
Are any of your other pets ill?
List recent changes in the environment, if any:
Diet:
Insects, list type?
Are they “gut loaded”? If so with?
How often do you feed your reptile?
Please list any supplements used. How are they given and how often?
What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both?
Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without?
Multivitamins?
Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet:
If your reptile is sick, please describe the signs and how long your reptile has been showing these signs:
Is your reptile’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased?
Is your reptile’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased?
Have you noticed any of the following?
Weight loss, Weight gain
Discharge from the eyes or nose
Increased breathing rate or effort
Change in the droppings
urates white or yellowish
Abnormal skin color or shedding
Parasites on the skin or in the feces
Weakness
~Maggot
Gender:?
Age:?
Weight:?
How big was the reptile when you first acquired it?bout 4 inches
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner)
et store
Captive bred or wild caught?
Do you handle him? If so how often?
Enclosure:
Cage: type, size:86cm long viv
Substrate provided?repticarpet
What types of hiding places are provided?cool hide warm hide moist hide
Is there a humidity hide? location?middle
Please describe any other furnishings:
Lighting:
Artificial lighting?no
incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s) ?
fluorescent (tube bulbs)?
Temperature:
Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? what type?digital probe
What is the temperature in the warm part of the cage? under the warm hide? In the coolest part?warm side between 90 and 95 cool between 75 and 80
What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature? hot rock, UTH, heat light, ceramic heater, other:uth covers third of tank
Are you using a thermostat?yes
Which hide does she/he spend most of her time?warm and moist
Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much?
Humidity:
Is the humidity measured? Range:
List other animals that are kept in the same cage:
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months)
Are any of your other pets ill?
List recent changes in the environment, if any:
Diet:
Insects, list type?locusts and dubia
Are they “gut loaded”? If so with?insect gut load
How often do you feed your reptile?daily
Please list any supplements used. How are they given and how often?
What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both?
Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without?
Multivitamins?pure calcium in tank dust with reptivite with d3 2x week
Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet:
If your reptile is sick, please describe the signs and how long your reptile has been showing these signs:
Is your reptile’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased?
Is your reptile’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased?
Have you noticed any of the following?
Weight loss, Weight gain
Discharge from the eyes or nose
Increased breathing rate or effort
Change in the droppings
urates white or yellowish
Abnormal skin color or shedding
Parasites on the skin or in the feces
Weakness
Age:?
Weight:?
How big was the reptile when you first acquired it?bout 4 inches
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner)
et storeCaptive bred or wild caught?
Do you handle him? If so how often?
Enclosure:
Cage: type, size:86cm long viv
Substrate provided?repticarpet
What types of hiding places are provided?cool hide warm hide moist hide
Is there a humidity hide? location?middle
Please describe any other furnishings:
Lighting:
Artificial lighting?no
incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s) ?
fluorescent (tube bulbs)?
Temperature:
Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? what type?digital probe
What is the temperature in the warm part of the cage? under the warm hide? In the coolest part?warm side between 90 and 95 cool between 75 and 80
What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature? hot rock, UTH, heat light, ceramic heater, other:uth covers third of tank
Are you using a thermostat?yes
Which hide does she/he spend most of her time?warm and moist
Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much?
Humidity:
Is the humidity measured? Range:
List other animals that are kept in the same cage:
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months)
Are any of your other pets ill?
List recent changes in the environment, if any:
Diet:
Insects, list type?locusts and dubia
Are they “gut loaded”? If so with?insect gut load
How often do you feed your reptile?daily
Please list any supplements used. How are they given and how often?
What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both?
Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without?
Multivitamins?pure calcium in tank dust with reptivite with d3 2x week
Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet:
If your reptile is sick, please describe the signs and how long your reptile has been showing these signs:
Is your reptile’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased?
Is your reptile’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased?
Have you noticed any of the following?
Weight loss, Weight gain
Discharge from the eyes or nose
Increased breathing rate or effort
Change in the droppings
urates white or yellowish
Abnormal skin color or shedding
Parasites on the skin or in the feces
Weakness
Sorry my Internet was down for a long time. I don't know age or sex. I did remove all the shed but the eye still not right and the aim is really bad. Have to hold food in front of her( just calling it a her) she won't eat crickets at all but will eat locusts and small dubia if I hold them in front of her. I can post pics if someone can tell me how?
Embrace Calamity
New member
It would be much more helpful if you'd fill out the questionnaire. To include pics, go down below your post and click "Manage Attachments."
~Maggot
~Maggot
Embrace Calamity
New member
My bad. It's hard to say without seeing a pic. Is it the eyeball itself or does it seem like there's something stuck under the eyelid?
~Maggot
~Maggot
I been cleaning it with sterile saline there doesn't appear to be anything stuck just one seems to be open wider than the other and the wider one looks darker in colour. She otherwise appears fine eating well if it held in front of her walking and pooing normal. She seems quite happy and behaviour not changed. Her aim is really bad even with holding food in front of her she still misses.
Embrace Calamity
New member
Eh, would need pics. Just post them when you can. Hopefully someone can give you an idea of what might be wrong.
~Maggot
~Maggot
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Please share pictures of your leo, her eye, and her habitat.
With an 86 cm long tank it should be easy to achieve a thermal gradient!
How about adding a 10 inch dome fixture with a ceramic heat emitter to provide warm air temperatures? A UTH does not do that.
Temp on warm end right on substrate under warm dry hide: 88-93 F
On warm end 4 inches up from the ground: no warmer than 85 F
On cool end 4 inches up from ground: no warmer than 75 F
Gutloading the Feeders versus Feeding the Feeders 24/7
The term gutloading causes some confusion. Feed your feeders a nutritious regular diet all the time to build strong feeder bodies. Then only feed a special GUTLOAD product to the crickets, for example, 1-2 days prior to feeding the crickets to your geckos. T-REX Calcium Plus Cricket Food is a good gutload food. Top off the crickets by lightly dusting with a multivitamin containing D3/vitamin A acetate and phosphorus-free calcium with D3 no more than 2x weekly.
With an 86 cm long tank it should be easy to achieve a thermal gradient!
How about adding a 10 inch dome fixture with a ceramic heat emitter to provide warm air temperatures? A UTH does not do that.
Temp on warm end right on substrate under warm dry hide: 88-93 F
On warm end 4 inches up from the ground: no warmer than 85 F
On cool end 4 inches up from ground: no warmer than 75 F
Gutloading the Feeders versus Feeding the Feeders 24/7
The term gutloading causes some confusion. Feed your feeders a nutritious regular diet all the time to build strong feeder bodies. Then only feed a special GUTLOAD product to the crickets, for example, 1-2 days prior to feeding the crickets to your geckos. T-REX Calcium Plus Cricket Food is a good gutload food. Top off the crickets by lightly dusting with a multivitamin containing D3/vitamin A acetate and phosphorus-free calcium with D3 no more than 2x weekly.
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Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Click the YouTube link, not the arrow, for added info.
Here's a suggested list of stuff for your tank.
#36---Leopard Gecko Setup Checklist: 4 January 2013
Thanks to Zena Reitano-Nesting for her suggestion that I add a Leo Setup Checklist.
20 gallon LONG tank (for 1 leo) -- 30 x 12.5 x 12.5 inches; 76.2 x 31.75 x 31.75 centimeters. For those who prefer front opening tanks, Exo Terra makes a tank: 36 inches x 18 inches x 12 inches high. As of January 2013 this Exo Terra tank costs $200.
Under Tank Heater (UTH) -- main heat source...extremely important! Your UTH should be 1/3 the length of the tank and as close to the width as possible.
10 inch (25.4 cm) diameter overhead dome fixture -- important for warm air no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) ~6 inches (15.2 cm) above the UTH. The 10 inch diameter dome is preferred because it will better direct the heat from a bulb back into the tank. With smaller domes a greater amount of heat escapes into the room .
Ceramic heat emitter (CHE) or Exo Terra's Night-Glo Moonlight bulb
Substrate -- ceramic, porcelain, or slate tiles (slate needs sealing with a food grade sealant), paper towels, kitchen roll
Thermostat(s) -- 1, possibly 2
Thermometer -- digital with probe, temperature gun, possibly an aquarium-type thermometer with a red display which has been calibrated against a trusted source. NO LCD (liquid crystal display) stick-ons or circle analog dial types. Both the latter are inaccurate.
Hides (3 per gecko) -- warm, warm moist, cool
Supplements --
100% pure calcium carbonate---NOW brand is fine, Zoo Med, or Rep-Cal. Shaved cuttlebone is a good source of pure calcium carbonate.
Phosphorus-free calcium with vitamin D3
Multivitamins which include vitamin D3 & vitamin A acetate
T-REX Calcium Plus Cricket Food for gutloading/pre-feeding crickets 48 hours prior to feeding off to leopard geckos.
Water dish
Food dish -- sturdy clear glass with tallish vertical sides. Good so gecko can view the tempting feeders and tallish so the feeders are less likely to escape. Small ceramic ramekins from a kitchen store work well too.
Cage furniture -- leo-friendly. A 3-D background is very attractive and extends your leo's playground !
Here's a suggested list of stuff for your tank.
#36---Leopard Gecko Setup Checklist: 4 January 2013
Thanks to Zena Reitano-Nesting for her suggestion that I add a Leo Setup Checklist.
20 gallon LONG tank (for 1 leo) -- 30 x 12.5 x 12.5 inches; 76.2 x 31.75 x 31.75 centimeters. For those who prefer front opening tanks, Exo Terra makes a tank: 36 inches x 18 inches x 12 inches high. As of January 2013 this Exo Terra tank costs $200.
Under Tank Heater (UTH) -- main heat source...extremely important! Your UTH should be 1/3 the length of the tank and as close to the width as possible.
10 inch (25.4 cm) diameter overhead dome fixture -- important for warm air no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) ~6 inches (15.2 cm) above the UTH. The 10 inch diameter dome is preferred because it will better direct the heat from a bulb back into the tank. With smaller domes a greater amount of heat escapes into the room .
Ceramic heat emitter (CHE) or Exo Terra's Night-Glo Moonlight bulb
Substrate -- ceramic, porcelain, or slate tiles (slate needs sealing with a food grade sealant), paper towels, kitchen roll
Thermostat(s) -- 1, possibly 2
Thermometer -- digital with probe, temperature gun, possibly an aquarium-type thermometer with a red display which has been calibrated against a trusted source. NO LCD (liquid crystal display) stick-ons or circle analog dial types. Both the latter are inaccurate.
Hides (3 per gecko) -- warm, warm moist, cool
Supplements --
100% pure calcium carbonate---NOW brand is fine, Zoo Med, or Rep-Cal. Shaved cuttlebone is a good source of pure calcium carbonate.
Phosphorus-free calcium with vitamin D3
Multivitamins which include vitamin D3 & vitamin A acetate
T-REX Calcium Plus Cricket Food for gutloading/pre-feeding crickets 48 hours prior to feeding off to leopard geckos.
Water dish
Food dish -- sturdy clear glass with tallish vertical sides. Good so gecko can view the tempting feeders and tallish so the feeders are less likely to escape. Small ceramic ramekins from a kitchen store work well too.
Cage furniture -- leo-friendly. A 3-D background is very attractive and extends your leo's playground !
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I'm looking into adding more to the tank. My uth is on a thermostat I have 3 hides food dish water dish and a cap with rep-cal pure calcium. I dust with reptivite 2x week. She will only eat locust and roaches and I put meal worms in occasionally. My tank measures 86 cm long I have repticarpet in there. My temps are good they stay between 90-95 warm side 75-80 cool. It's the eye I'm worried about. Vet said its nothing to worry about but it's been a while and while it seems a bit better it still not great
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Looking good!
Zoo Med's Reptivite comes with and without vitamin D3. What type do you have?
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
I don't know about her eye. Perhaps a vet can determine whether her vision is impaired.
Have you tried feeding her from a feeding dish? If she finds her water, she could find her food.
Good that your Reptivite contains D3! Make sure you only lightly dust the prey.
Try lowering the warm end temps a few degrees to 88-93 F.
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