What Does an Overweight LG Look Like?

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Corwin's Keeper

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I have a decent size order of new feeders that I am trying to feed off. With all this food, I was getting concerned about potentially over feeding my gecko. Can anyone share a photo (whether a personal photo or from Google) of an overweight leopard gecko and a picture of a leopard gecko of healthy weight? I would just like to know what I should look out for. Thanks for anyone that can help! :)
 

XoVictoryXo

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overweight :
IMG_0158.jpg

images
 

Saskia

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I would also be interested in seeing pctures to compare an overweight animal with a healthy weight one, I have lately been thinking that leos in general are becoming a bit fat, mine are a bit thinner than most "show geckos" do, and sometimes I wonder what would be optimal, what do wild leos look like???
 

XoVictoryXo

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I think "healthy weight" might be controversial according to each expert. LOL ;) (hey what do you know- just like humans) I think its why it is such a broad range on the care sheet when it says 55g-85g. Also allow age and length of leo to determine proper weights.
female tails are shaped differently from males who are just overall larger.

Heres a comparison of male/female tail (my Xena on left, Rex on right)
xovictoryxo-albums-gecko-love-picture4024-hanging-out-mom-watching-tv.jpg

Some may argue the female may be a little underweight (This tail could be plumper to my comfort level, so i give her a few more treats then male)
Some may argue that the male is a little overweight (he has a pretty slender body, but I personally think that is a rather large tail but Im comfortable with it- but dont want it larger- he is a monster eater)
( i am no expert - just an observer speculator)
 

Duster

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Leopard geckos carry their fat stores in their tail. Typically that is a good indicator of health. It is very easy to tell if a gecko has been properly cared for by the thickness of their tail.

From what I've read, and in my past experience, a healthy leopard gecko will have a tail that ranges in thickness of approximately the width of their neck to the width of their head.

So anything outside of that range might be an indicator of a skinny gecko, or an overweight gecko.

Now keep in mind this only works for adult geckos who haven't dropped their tail. A lot of times if the gecko has dropped their tail it will be thicker than their head...

Edit: I should clarify, the thickness should be taken at the widest part of the tail, not the base.
 
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Saskia

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a healthy leopard gecko will have a tail that ranges in thickness of approximately the width of their neck to the width of their head.

I believe this could be considered a good indicator! I had never put it that way, but will for sure start doing so from now on... :biggrin:
 

Corwin's Keeper

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From what I've read, and in my past experience, a healthy leopard gecko will have a tail that ranges in thickness of approximately the width of their neck to the width of their head.

So anything outside of that range might be an indicator of a skinny gecko, or an overweight gecko.

Thanks for that quick rule of thumb; easy enough to use that as a guideline! :idea:

Oops, Saskia beat me to it! Haha.
 
:scratchhead: Ok, so should I focus on tail, the abdomen, or both? Ahh! Lol.

Both and more.

It isn't so much about over weight but over fat, excess fat is stored in the tail for times when the diet is restricted in nature, in captivity the restriction never happens unless the owner puts his or her geckos on a restricted diet.

When the tail is as fat as it is going to get you see the development of fat elsewhere, the first picture above is clearly a bit on the chubby side.

Leos in general have a range of sizes they will attain, take away the tail which may not grow back to the same length it was and you have what we call the SVL (Snout to Vent Length). This is the length most stable for any one gecko once it reaches its full adult size.

A shorter gecko will not be expected to carry the same weight as a longer gecko, and females are nearly always the smaller of the two sexes (assuming the same genetics).

Any gecko that is fed mainly a high fat diet of mealworms, superworms, or wax worms will be over fat.

For the most part leopard geckos in captivity are a bit on the (lets be politically correct here) big boned side of things. Which is fine to a point, they have little to fret over, and being in captivity has offered them the chance to live far longer than on would expect them to live in the wild.

With this long life comes issues though, certainly few leos in the wild live so long as to die of old age, most are going to die from predation, rapid onset of illness, or injury. In captivity death is most often dietary related (starvation, MBD, fatty liver disease, gout, dehydration, etc.), husbandry related deaths are likely slightly less common (impaction, falls, escape followed by predation by other household pets, thermal burns, scale rot secondary to improper substrate choice and/or lack of hygiene, etc.), the least common causes of death are old age related and can run the gamut of anything from simple old age to cancer, we are all only going to live as long as our genetics allow and how well we care for ourselves, this applies to our geckos as well.

So if we monitor our geckos well enough from birth, we can see when they make the switch from growing (increases in SVL) to gaining mass. As has been pointed out differing opinions will be found as to where the limits of this gain should be held at.

In my opinion, growing leos need to eat as much as they can as often as they can, it is here that they will grow the fastest, and you will see huge gains in weight and SVL. When the change in SVL month to month of a leopard gecko starts to decline they will begin to fill out and bulk up. They are using the nutrients and calories in their diet to build fat reserves, and put on weight for breeding and the expected cold / foodless season they would encounter in the wild.

On the assumption that the gecko is well fed and otherwise properly cared for it should take between 9 and 10 months to reach the geckos optimal weight. They should be neither slender or overly bulky, and quick on their feet as a result of their good health. A leo fed the same as it was as a growing hatchling will become lazy and over fat due to being more heavy than its size is designed to carry. It is common to mistake this laziness for tameness, leos are curious geckos that will spend a great deal of time and energy in search of food, water, and comfortable temps.

Adjust the quantity and or frequency of food or type of food to maintain your geckos desired weight. Adjust upward for breeding females and either sex if a tail is being regenerated.

Maurice Pudlo
 

cricket4u

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2 quick details to keep an eye out for.

Tail should never be as wide or wider than the body. The abdominal area should be close to flat with the exception of right after a meal.
 

Corwin's Keeper

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Wow, thanks for all the info! I guess I should be measuring her length in addition to her weekly weigh ins (but she's not too keen on being held). She is about 4 months old now, so she is still in the growing stages, I guess I could afford to feed an extra cricket here and there and see how she does.

On another note "For the most part leopard geckos in captivity are a bit on the (lets be politically correct here) big boned side of things." :rofl:
 
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