in cases of impaction does a gecko laxative exist?

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veepveep

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just wondering about sand / mealworm exoskeleton impactions.... what do you use to relieve the gecko's constipation besides hydration? i thought i read somewhere that a leo owner tried using mineral oil orally and as an enema (i dont understand how that would work in a reptile) with success. i'm curious and after lurking on this site for the past year, thought i'd post!
thanks!
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
just wondering about sand / mealworm exoskeleton impactions.... what do you use to relieve the gecko's constipation besides hydration? i thought i read somewhere that a leo owner tried using mineral oil orally and as an enema (i dont understand how that would work in a reptile) with success. i'm curious and after lurking on this site for the past year, thought i'd post!
thanks!

There's a separate post about constipation among the 50 or so following the Leo Caresheet linked in my signature below. See whether that helps.

Has this leo been on sand?
 

avoidtheboyd

New member
I'm not sure if a laxative specifically for reptiles is available but I believe some people have used cat laxatives before.
 

cwatkins

New member
You can use mineral oil as a laxitative. My gecko is slowly recovering from impaction and that is what the told me to use, 0.2ml. Along with two warm water baths daily. You can also message this belly. This is in more detail on Elizabeths care sheet like she said.
 

veepveep

New member
yes she was on sand until i read that post about "peach & her fight w/ sand impaction" & it broke my heart so now my gecko is on paper towels. im glad to hear there is a way to help her if the need arises. why i asked is because i had some mealworms lately and she had been refusing them. so i gave her some crickets, but she shows no interest. i do have some fluker's repta + boost for emergencies & want to be prepared for all eventualities! Thank you!
 

veepveep

New member
ah, here we are:
#7---Constipation/impaction recommendations

During the warm water soak try massaging his belly from throat to vent (longitudinally).


"Apart from the bath you could also try a drop of mineral oil on your gecko's nose or if you can't get that 2 drops of olive oil. I used a combination of bathing (warm water not too hot) and mineral oil and gently rubbing my lizard's belly from front to back in the water. In addition check that your temps are warm enough, that your gecko has enough water and calcium, and that your gecko isn't eating food that's too big as these can cause constipation. If you're keeping it on sand or any other substrate that they can eat - change it as ingestion could be causing your gecko to be impacted too. If there's still no poop you'll have to take your gecko to the vet. 20 days with no poop is way too long! Can you see a big black mass of poop in your gecko's body - their skin's pretty transparent on their underside? Good luck with your poor little gecko! I really hope it's better soon." Thanks, Debbie7054 (10/14/2011)


"When I thought my gecko was constipated the vet told me to give her her liquid paraffin (medicinal), 2 times a day for 2 days. It worked.

Dosage for a 40 gram leo: 0,2 ml 2 times a day, for 2 days." Thanks, zelda (10/14/2011)

Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 01-21-2013 at 02:06 AM. THANKS!
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
yes she was on sand until i read that post about "peach & her fight w/ sand impaction" & it broke my heart so now my gecko is on paper towels. im glad to hear there is a way to help her if the need arises. why i asked is because i had some mealworms lately and she had been refusing them. so i gave her some crickets, but she shows no interest. i do have some fluker's repta + boost for emergencies & want to be prepared for all eventualities! Thank you!

Crickets are very good feeders. However variety is super important. For the mealworm part of "variety" feed freshly shed mealworms and mealworm pupae. Hornworms are excellent! Dubia are very good.
 
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cricket4u

New member
yes she was on sand until i read that post about "peach & her fight w/ sand impaction" & it broke my heart so now my gecko is on paper towels. im glad to hear there is a way to help her if the need arises. why i asked is because i had some mealworms lately and she had been refusing them. so i gave her some crickets, but she shows no interest. i do have some fluker's repta + boost for emergencies & want to be prepared for all eventualities! Thank you!

Hi,

Before you start thinking about mineral oil, you must rule out the common causes. Impaction is usually secondary and a result of a number of things such as, improper temps, dehydration, parasites, infection, vitamin deficiency, fed prey too large, ect. You don't just want treat the symptom and allow the cause to continue. A trained professional (vet) should be the one to conclude it's an actual impaction, what caused it (r/o parasites, infection, nutritional issues) and the best way to proceed.
 

veepveep

New member
thank you, i did feed nymph dubias for awhile but when by boyfriend discovered my small dubia colony, he went insane (apparently he has a phobia of non-pest species of roaches :/) and i had to get rid of them. i will look into getting a supply of silkworms / horn worms for my reptiles (for nutritional variety) in the near future. currently i am messing with my temps because she was in an 18x18x18 exo terra and wasn't warm enough 74 - 80 F so i moved her to a temporary 10 gallon and the temps are too high (the tank is on top of my vision cage with a black headed montior inside) so i've been trying to find a steady medium in the past two weeks. i check the temps periodically during the day & night and they range from 80 - 94 F. ultimately i'm going to have to move the tank and fiddle with a UTH/rehostat instead of red lamp. : ) anyway i figured that might give you a better idea. right now she's soaking in warm water and i gave her some oilve oil she only wanted about 5 drops but its a start. i'll try again in a bit and do the soak / tummy massage 2x a day and if i don't see any poo it's off to the vet. she looks pretty good atm, tho, no lethargy, active & such, just not eating. i'm working on it and love the site here! thanks all!
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
veepveep ~

Let's fill out this questionnaire, please:

Gender:
Age:
Weight:
How big was the reptile when you first acquired it?
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner):
Captive bred or wild caught?

Enclosure:

Cage: type, size:
Substrate provided?
What types of hiding places are provided?
Is there a humidity hide? location?
Please describe any other furnishings:

Lighting:

Artificial lighting?
incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s) ?
fluorescent (tube bulbs)?

Temperature:

Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? what type?
What is the temperature in the warm part of the cage? under the warm hide? In the coolest part?
What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature? hot rock, UTH, heat light, ceramic heater, other:
Are you using a thermostat?
Which hide does she/he spend most of her time?

Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much?

Humidity:

Is the humidity measured? Range:


List other animals that are kept in the same cage:
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months)
Are any of your other pets ill?
List recent changes in the environment, if any:

Diet:

Insects, list type?
Are they “gut loaded”? If so with?
How often do you feed your reptile?
Please list any supplements used. How are they given and how often?
What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both?
Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without?
Multivitamins?

Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet:

If your reptile is sick, please describe the signs and how long your reptile has been showing these signs:
Is your reptile’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased?
Is your reptile’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased?
Have you noticed any of the following?
Weight loss, Weight gain
Discharge from the eyes or nose
Increased breathing rate or effort
Change in the droppings
urates white or yellowish
Abnormal skin color or shedding
Parasites on the skin or in the feces
Weakness

Any known illinesses or problems:
 

veepveep

New member
first of all i'm sorry for the delay, i got a little busy but here goes:
Questionnaire

Gender: female
Age: 1 1/2 years (raised since she was a 2 1/2 inch hatchling)
Weight: dont have a digital scale but her tail is fatter at the widest point than the width of her neck)
How big was the reptile when you first acquired it? 2 to 2 1/2 inches
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner): local pet store, must have been CB
Captive bred or wild caught? CB

Enclosure: currently ten gal tank

Cage: type, size: ten gal aquarium
Substrate provided? paper towels
What types of hiding places are provided? i warm moist hide with eco earth (disposable tupperware container w/ hole cut in lid ans edges sanded smooth)
Is there a humidity hide? location? yes, in warm side
Please describe any other furnishings: hide in cool side. it's a reptile hide that goes against the glass so you can see the animal with ledges and holes on opposite side, faux rock

Lighting: UTH with rheostat for adjusting temp

Artificial lighting? Used to use red zoo med bulb in previous exo terra tank for heat but it wasn't strong enough to have hides at optimal temperature
incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s) ? standard zoo med "red" bulb... forgot wattage as it's being used now to heat feeder house geckos for timor monitor (who is a picky eater, & WONT eat anything else besides feeder lizards unfortunately, hope i dont offend anyone)
fluorescent (tube bulbs)?

Temperature: hot side approx 86 degrees F, cool side 80

Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? what type? forget if it's zoo med or exo terra but both a temp gauge and a humidity gauge that stick to the glass, also have a zoo med digital thermometer w/ probe & a infrared temp gun.
What is the temperature in the warm part of the cage? under the warm hide? In the coolest part? the bottom of the marm side is about 90 F, in the humid hide 86 F, cool side 77 - 82
What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature? hot rock, UTH, heat light, ceramic heater, other: UTH w/ rheostat
Are you using a thermostat? no i just check temps every few days (if i notice anything odd like what prompted my post, i check multiple times a day & night)
Which hide does she/he spend most of her time? humid hide, asleep.

Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much? our condo has a thermostat and it doesn't get lower than 65 F in the house, but the reptile room stays at al least 75 at night currently durign winter in colorado as we keep the door shut.

Humidity: about 0 except when i mist her humid hide to keep it moist, about every two days

Is the humidity measured? Range: honestly, not really. the gauge goes up when i mist the humid hide but of course goes down in a couple of hours because it is so dry here.


List other animals that are kept in the same cage: none. i periodically wash the tanks with a weak bleach & dishsoap solution, esp once i get a new reptile
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months) house geckos i got in late december to feed my timor montior. actually i ordered anoles from lllreptile but they only had feeder house geckos.
Are any of your other pets ill? no
List recent changes in the environment, if any: none i can think of.

Diet: crickets & most recently mealworms because i had ran out of crickets

Insects, list type?
Are they “gut loaded”? If so with? yes, i gut load my feeder insects with fresh kale, oranges, apples, oatmeal & my homeade mix that i used to feed my dubia roach colony (crushed kitten food mixed with bone meal & fish flakes
How often do you feed your reptile? the leo, about once a week and leave the crickets in his cage (with food) and montior him to make sure they don't get nibbly. so far i've never seen me leo with any cricket bites
Please list any supplements used. How are they given and how often? repti-cal and reptivite
What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both? reptical w/ 0% D3
Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without? in tank is without D3
Multivitamins? reptivite and (repti+boost just in case it's ever needed)

Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet: about two months ago i ran out of crickets and lost my job and has a surplus of mealworms so i had fed her those

If your reptile is sick, please describe the signs and how long your reptile has been showing these signs: i noticed she had been refusing the mealworms & even crickets about early feburary, if i remember correctly.
Is your reptile’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased? normal.
Is your reptile’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased? had decreased, which is what worried me and prompted me to post here for the 1st time
Have you noticed any of the following?
Weight loss, Weight gain no
Discharge from the eyes or nose no
Increased breathing rate or effort no
Change in the droppings yes, decrease in droppings
urates white or yellowish white
Abnormal skin color or shedding no
Parasites on the skin or in the feces no
Weakness no

Any known illinesses or problems: just that she was refusing food lately which prompted me to watch her more closely.
she has since pooped! her activity levels remain normal, although she was pissed about the warm baths 2X a day & the tummy massages and being forced to eat olive oil ^_^

so thank you for your help! today i noticed my house gecko cage (which has eggs in the eco earth / sand mixture) had a broken egg inside (there are five eggs that i can see, perhaps more in the substrate) and found a hatchling! its super cute! i hate that they have to be feeders.
 

Embrace Calamity

New member
1) You need a dry hide on the warm side. Your gecko needs to be able to be in an area that's warm without being forced to be somewhere with very high humidity. Without this option, she will either choose high humidity - which isn't always good - or cold temperatures, which will decrease her digestion. Put an open-bottom hide right on top of the UTH.
2) EDIT: Disregard this part.
3) Your cool side is a bit too warm. It should be around 75. I believe PetSmart is still having its $1/gallon sale on aquariums (plus about $7 for the lid), so now would be a great time to pick up a 20 LONG. You'll get almost twice the floor space of the 10 gallon and an excellent temp gradient. You can also check garage sales, thrift stores, etc.
4) Ditch the red bulb. These lights are stressful for geckos. They have color vision that is approximately 350x better than ours is, so the red bulb is very disruptive. If you need overhead heat, I'd invest in either a regular basking bulb during the day and a ceramic heat emitter at night or a ceramic heat emitter 24/7.
5) Keep the warm side temp above 80 at night. Again, this will help with digestion, especially since your gecko likely eats at night.

It's possible your gecko has stopped eating just because of the season. They do weird things during breeding season. I know many people's have stopped eating right now, including mine. I wouldn't be too concerned as long as her body condition is good and she's not losing weight.

~Maggot
 

veepveep

New member
appreciate your advice!
regarding:
1.) thanks, i will make a magnetized hide/ledge out of styrofoam (tutorials on youtube) for her.
3.) i will be looking out for a 20 gallon tank asap most likely craigslist or my local reptile store/thrift store.
4.) red bulb is no longer in use for the leopard gecko, she's got a UTH w/ a rheostat to adjust temps. red light is used for feeder house geckos. was, but no longer. thats the main reason i put her in the ten gallon until i can get a 20 gal or feed off the house geckos (and put her back in the exo-terra with a UTH) but they keep breeding and laying eggs and my timor monitor can only catch so many at a time.... *sigh*
5.) im sure the temp on the hot side is above 80 at night, it's the ambient room temp that is at least 75 F because this bedroom is my designated woman-cave / reptile room. the UTH stays pretty constant - what had been affecting the temp is the black headed monitor's vision cage that my leo's tank is on top of. black headed monitor has a helix heat pad & thermostat almost under the leo's cage which is the only place for it at the moment until i can make some adjustments (i'm looking to sell my timor to someone who already has timors, long story) and some room. anyway when i was really concerned about my leo i was checking on her at night and the night time hot temps were fluctuating between 86 - 95 F. i moved the ten gal off of the hot spot on the vision cage as far to the left as i could and it seems to have stabilized.
& as for the last comment, that's kinda what i was wondering about since this is my first leo and i didn't think they needed to hibernate/brumate but is is winter here and i dunno.... i freaked out about her being constipated but it looks like shes okay (thank god). as long as she is pooping and active and doesn't appear in distress or in pain i'll just keep a close eye on her & her temps.
i do appreciate everyones advice and criticisms, its by making mistakes that we learn the biggest lessons even if we do our research... i don't know what i would have done in the age before internet forums! can you imagine?!?!
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
veepveep ~

At the age of your leo, he should be fed 3x per week.

Tank humidity should range between 40-50% with warm humid hide having a greater humidity.

Consider getting a thermostat, better than a rheostat. It will make your leo more comfortable cuz the temps will be more stable. It will also provide a safety measure against house fires in case your UTH overheats. The Hydrofarm MTPRTC can be purchased at places like Amazon for just $25.

Have you the Reptivite with D3?

We suggest lightly dusting prey with a D3 containing vitamin 2x weekly. That can either be 2x weekly with Reptivite with D3 or 1x with that Reptivite and a second time with a phosphorus-free calcium with D3.

Some people suggest a very small bottlecap of plain calcium in the tank 24/7; others don't.

Pictures?
 
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