Feeding issues

Gymcie

New member
Boyfriend got an approximately 1 month old mack snow leopard gecko from our local reptile expo. The gecko is about a month and a half now, so we've had it about 2 weeks. Its hardly been eating anything. The breeder said they had been feeding it mealworms. Its eaten about 3days since we brought it home. Probably 2 worms and a combined # of about 15 small crickets. When the gecko did eat, it would only eat after we left food in front of it and leave the room. My boyfriend was coming home on his lunch break and leaving food out for it and by time hr got home it was gone. the other days they would all still be there by that time. It also was pooping when we first brought it home, and a couple times after it ate, but now its just pee it looks like.

There it a food bowl, a water bowl with a hide underneath it on the cool side.
there is a 3 story hide on the warm side in the corner.
and a little skull on the other corner opposite of the 3car story so its not on the heater but it is warm.
we have seen it move all over to all of the hides.

I have put a bowl of repashy superfoods leopard gecko calcium plus vitamin mineral supplement.
We dust the crickets and worms with tetrafauna reptocal with d3.
Ee also have an undertank heater.
I will come up with temperatures soon.

I have read before about feeding it chicken baby food with some vitamin supplements mixed in, and im thinking about trying it, so maybe it can gain a little weight. Do babies eat something different? I have 3to of my own and have not had this problem before, and I am trying everything I can to keep it alive. Although I am starting to get very worried. I kept saying you have to be patient and let it adjust to its new surroundings but I can't also don't want to die because its not eating. we offer food everyday. Does anyone have any suggestions?


Thank you. I will also post pictures soon too.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Thanks for sharing these details, Gymcie. Please post a picture of your leo and of the habitat.

Remove the bowl of Repashy Superfoods Calcium Plus + vitamins from the tank. The only supplement that belongs in the tank is a very small bottlecap of plain calcium carbonate for backup only.

How often are you dusting the crickets with Tetrafauna's Reptocal with D3?

Please complete this questionnaire as completely as you can.

#50---Cricket4u's Gecko Health Questionnaire
Please do not make the mistake of using this forum as an alternative to seeking proper medical treatment for your pet. If you fear that your leopard gecko is sick, the best step is to get him/her to a vet who can visually and physically examine and diagnose the problem(s).

Geckos Unlimited members have wide ranges of experience. Not all of the advice that you get is valid.

When asking questions about your leopard gecko's health, it's best to include as much information as you can in order to help us best determine what might be wrong with your animal. High quality pictures of your leo, his issues, and his habitat are extremely useful. Include a video if the leo's gait is problematic.

General Information
Species of lizard:
Gecko's name:
Morph:
Gender:
Age:
Weight:
Total length:
Length of your reptile when you first acquired it:
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner):
Captive bred or wild caught:

Vivarium
Enclosure dimensions (length x width x heighth):
Cage (type, size):
Substrate provided:
Types of hiding places provided:
Is there a humidity hide? location?
Please describe any other furnishings:
List recent changes in the environment, if any:

Lighting
Artificial lighting
Incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s):
Fluorescent (tube bulbs):

Natural lighting
Access to ambient daylight from a distant window:

Heating
Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage?
What type and brand of thermometer (digital with probe, temperature gun, LCD strip, analog (circle), combo digital thermometer/hygrometer, stainless steel aquarium type, other):
What is the ground temperature right on the substrate under the warm dry hide:
What is the air temperature on the warm end about 4 inches up from the ground:
What is the air temperature on the cool end about 4 inches up from the ground:
What device(s) are used to heat the tank (Under Tank Heater, heat light, ceramic heat emitter, Flexwatt heat tape, hot rock, other):
Ventilation space for your UTH by elevating the tank above the shelf (some UTHs come with sticky feet for the tank corners):
Are you using a thermostat(s)?
Which hide does she/he spend most of her time?
Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much?

Humidity
Is the humidity measured?
Humidity range:

Diet
Insects and worms, list type:
Regular diet fed to the insects and worms:
Are the insects and worms formally “gutloaded” 1-2 days prior to feeding off to your gecko? If so with?
How often do you feed your gecko?
Please list any supplements (with brand names) used. How are they given and how often?
What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both?
Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without?
Multivitamins (include brand name)?
Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet:

General Health
If your gecko is sick, please describe the signs and how long your gecko has been showing these signs:
Is your gecko’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased?
Is your gecko’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased?
Have you noticed any of the following?
Weight (loss or gain):
Regurgitation:
Discharge from the eyes or nose:
Increased breathing rate or effort:
Change in the droppings:
Urates
---white or yellowish:
---size of urates as compared to size of feces:
Abnormal skin color or shedding:
Parasites on the skin or in the feces:
Weakness:

Current medications & dosages:
Previous problems and/or illnesses:

Other Critters in Same Cage or in Household
List other animals that are kept in the same cage:
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months):
Are any of your other pets ill?
 

Gymcie

New member
General Information
Species of lizard: Eublepharis macularius
Gecko's name: Ninja
Morph: Mack Snow
Gender: Unknown
Age: 1 1/2 months
Weight: Last checked (day he was brought home) 5.4 grams
Total length: 4 in
Length of your reptile when you first acquired it: 4 in
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner): Reptile expo breeder
Captive bred or wild caught: Captive

Vivarium
Enclosure dimensions (length x width x heighth): 10 gallon tank
Cage (type, size): ^
Substrate provided: paper towels over repticarpet
Types of hiding places provided: 3 in one cave/water dish/basking rock, 3 story rock, and a skull.
Is there a humidity hide? location?: yes, cool side.
Please describe any other furnishings: food dish
List recent changes in the environment, if any: none

Lighting
Artificial lighting: none
Incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s): none
Fluorescent (tube bulbs): none

Natural lighting
Access to ambient daylight from a distant window: there is a window behind the tank, but it has storm shutters covering the entire window, the only light it has is the ceiling fan light.

Heating
Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage?: no. (temp gun is used)
What type and brand of thermometer (digital with probe, temperature gun, LCD strip, analog (circle), combo digital thermometer/hygrometer, stainless steel aquarium type, other): cornwell
What is the ground temperature right on the substrate under the warm dry hide:
What is the air temperature on the warm end about 4 inches up from the ground:
What is the air temperature on the cool end about 4 inches up from the ground:
What device(s) are used to heat the tank (Under Tank Heater, heat light, ceramic heat emitter, Flexwatt heat tape, hot rock, other): undertank heater
Ventilation space for your UTH by elevating the tank above the shelf (some UTHs come with sticky feet for the tank corners): sticky feet that came with the uth, and the tank itself is a little bit raised.
Are you using a thermostat(s)?: yes
Which hide does she/he spend most of her time?: it switches all day long, i havent seen it favor one over the other.
Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much?: i dont think the temperature decreases alot.

Humidity
Is the humidity measured?: yes.
Humidity range:

Diet
Insects and worms, list type: regular mealworms & small crickets
Regular diet fed to the insects and worms:
Are the insects and worms formally “gutloaded” 1-2 days prior to feeding off to your gecko? If so with?:
How often do you feed your gecko?: *try to offer food everyday.
Please list any supplements (with brand names) used. How are they given and how often?: reptocal with d3 (so far with every feeding, i do know it is supposed to be every other, but the 3 times it has eaten has been spaced apart) & repashy vitamin supplement in the food dish
What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both?: ^
Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without?: without
Multivitamins (include brand name)?: ^
Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet: nothing

General Health
If your gecko is sick, please describe the signs and how long your gecko has been showing these signs: not eating regularly, 2 weeks.
Is your gecko’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased?: id say normal, has no problem lounging around or sometimes he walks around in circles until hes decided where he wants to be. he climbs alot.
Is your gecko’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased?: decreased.
Have you noticed any of the following?
Weight (loss or gain): neither
Regurgitation: no
Discharge from the eyes or nose: no
Increased breathing rate or effort: no
Change in the droppings: no just only after he has eaten as normal.
Urates
---white or yellowish: not sure the color of it, its on paper towel, whiteish or clearish maybe.
---size of urates as compared to size of feces: about the same size, it seems to be a normal size.
Abnormal skin color or shedding: well, his stripes were white as white can be at the expo, but since hes been home its alot darker, gray color. weve only seen it white once since hes been home. i think shedding is fine, i believe he has only shed once, and after was when he was white.
Parasites on the skin or in the feces: none.
Weakness: doesnt seem to appear weak.

Current medications & dosages: none.
Previous problems and/or illnesses: none.

Other Critters in Same Cage or in Household
List other animals that are kept in the same cage: none.
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months): none.
Are any of your other pets ill?: no.
 

cricket4u

New member
Hi,

You left a few of the most important questions unanswered?

What is the ground temperature right on the substrate under the warm dry hide:
What is the air temperature on the warm end about 4 inches up from the ground:
What is the air temperature on the cool end about 4 inches up from the ground:


For the air temps you will need to buy a digital thermometer if you don't already have one. I suggest that you upgrade to a 20 gallon long at least in order to provide a better temp gradient.

These are the temps you want to aim for:

Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the UTH on 24/7. Can turn off overhead heating at night.
 
Last edited:

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Hi,

You left a few of the most important questions unanswered?

What is the ground temperature right on the substrate under the warm dry hide:
What is the air temperature on the warm end about 4 inches up from the ground:
What is the air temperature on the cool end about 4 inches up from the ground:


For the air temps you will need to buy a digital thermometer if you don't already have one. I suggest that you upgrade to a 20 gallon long at least in order to provide a better temp gradient.

These are the temps you want to aim for:

Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the UTH on 24/7. Can turn off overhead heating at night.

Are you certain about the weight: 5.4 gms on a 4 inch leopard gecko? That is critically skinny :-(. Please post a picture.
 

Gymcie

New member
That is what it weighed the day we brought it home we weighed it yesterday and it just said 6.. with a different scale. The warm side temp is 89, air 86.. cool side 75, air 77. Humidity is about 30/40%.
 

Gymcie

New member
It wont let me click the option to add the pictures straight to here. So here is the album I just uploaded. The first being the first day I brought it home and the last being taken yesterday.

Gymcie's Album: Ninja
 

cricket4u

New member
Set the thermostat to 91.
Move the enclosure away from the window, open up the storm shutters and allow him to see daylight.
There's a chance he may be constipated from too much supplementation.
I have put a bowl of repashy superfoods leopard gecko calcium plus vitamin mineral supplement.
We dust the crickets and worms with tetrafauna reptocal with d3.

Move the humidity hide to the warm side.
You may have to give him a warm soak.

Cornwell Thermometer? Does it have a probe?

I'm wondering how you achieved these temps in a 10 gallon without the use of a bulb.

The warm side temp is 89, air 86.. cool side 75, air 77. Humidity is about 30/40%.

I'm not sure your thermometer is reading properly? It's rare to have an air temp of 89 and a cool side of 75f without an overhead source. In order for the cool side to be 75f, the room temp must be the same or less than.

Can you post a picture of the thermometer you are using? You can't read air temps with a temp gun.
 
Last edited:

Gymcie

New member
i dont think he even found the calcium or food bowl to be honest. but i fed him some chicken baby food, watered down so he could lick it off his nose, i did it one night Last sunday) and boyfriend did it the next day(monday of this week), and i told him to start offering food. and so far he had 5 crickets tuesday, and about 6 or 7 wednesday. hes getting fed again on boyfriends lunch break. and so far hes had 2 healthy digested poops.


and a cornwell thermometer is a mechanics tool. it is an infrared thermo. point and shoot. and the temperatures are right, and it is a 10 gallon. i didnt do anything special those are just the temps i got.

he is slowly making progress. thanks for the suggestions guys.
 

cricket4u

New member
The problem is the tool you are using only measure the surface temp (the exact spot it's pointing to) not the air. The beam is not going to stop half way in the air, to read the air temp. Makes sense?

If the air temp is too high or too low, the gecko may not eat. This is a way that the body protects itself when the conditions are not ideal for proper digestion. Forcing food without correcting conditions can lead to digestive problems.
 
Last edited:
Top