That may be a better option I'll have to try both out. And as for now while I just have my Calcium D3 should I dust everyday?
Over Feeding New Leo? And Heating QU.
- Thread starter Petrie
- Start date
That may be a better option I'll have to try both out. And as for now while I just have my Calcium D3 should I dust everyday?
It depends where you are, the UTH can go inside the viv (mine is, in fact that's what's reccommeded in the UTH instructions for my kind of viv (wooden)). Of course here in the UK it's not called a UTH, it's a Heat mat, so you can put it anywhere without it being an contradiction.
DrenneRvc
New member
ROFL
My petco said the same type of things, and even had me buying a starter kit cage, which was a big mistake.
Learn from mistakes tho.
Now I've learned much more about gecks, and every time I go there to buy my crickets or whatever I need they try to give me advice and stuff, and I ALWAYS challenge them and pretty much tell them they are wrong. I know its rude but if they say incorrect information to me, how many other people will they tell the same wrong stuffs :S
It depends on your ambient temperature. If you live in a cold/cool location, you may need the lamp for extra air heat, but that should be on a thermostat too (dangle the probe in mid air on the warm side about 4cm from ground). One of the reasons I use a CHE (no light, just heat), that way the constant on/off isn't a problem.
Mardy
New member
Your heat lamp is only needed if you live somewhere cold and that your ambient temperature drops below 70 degrees on a consistent basis. Otherwise, you're fine without it. Since it's the summer time, chances are you don't need the heat lamp once you've got a thermostat hooked up to a UTH.
Muffins94
New member
Set it to about 93, and then monitor to see if your gecko will use the warm hide. If it doesn't, decrease the temperature until you see your gecko is comfortable. Everyone if different, our adult likes hers at 92, and then our hatchling likes it at 89/90. So it all depends on your actual gecko, play around with it and see what works.
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Lots of advice here 
, :yahoo:......
It is best for your leo to have a warm zone on the warm end, not just a warm spot. The UTH provides basically just a warm spot. Heat drops off quickly as it rises. Just a couple inches above the ground temps are basically cool.
By providing overhead heat from a ceramic heat emitter or an Exo Terra Night-Glo moonlight bulb, you will have a more active leo. Embrace Calamity and others on GU have experimented with all 3 options. She and others confirm their leos are considerably more active when provided with an UTH as well as overhead lighting. Addiitionally, a 10 inch diameter dome will redirect the overhead heat best.
Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end
Leave the UTH on 24/7. Can turn off overhead heating at night.
, :yahoo:......It is best for your leo to have a warm zone on the warm end, not just a warm spot. The UTH provides basically just a warm spot. Heat drops off quickly as it rises. Just a couple inches above the ground temps are basically cool.
By providing overhead heat from a ceramic heat emitter or an Exo Terra Night-Glo moonlight bulb, you will have a more active leo. Embrace Calamity and others on GU have experimented with all 3 options. She and others confirm their leos are considerably more active when provided with an UTH as well as overhead lighting. Addiitionally, a 10 inch diameter dome will redirect the overhead heat best.
Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end
Leave the UTH on 24/7. Can turn off overhead heating at night.
Just hand fed Petrie, it was so cute! I was a little afraid of him from when he hissed at me the day I got him, but I've been sticking my hand in his cage and then hand feeding him made me feel comfortable . In a day or a few I'm gonna see if he will let me put him in my hand, or if he will crawl into it.
. In a day or a few I'm gonna see if he will let me put him in my hand, or if he will crawl into it.
Muffins94
New member
Hatchling geckos usually hiss up to about a month- month and a half. Our baby stopped hissing around 1 month old and is now getting used to be held and taken out, it's currently about 2 months old now. It's just a hatchling trait, don't worry it will go away soon, it's just scared. Hand feeding will help immensely, it will build trust.
Muffins94
New member
Also, I recommend the UTH paired with a low wattage heat bulb to raise air temps and create more of a warm side. I have tried all three ways, strictly using heat lamp, strictly using UTH and using a combination of both and I found out my gecko is more active when using both. That way she isn't glued to the warm hide.
Mardy
New member
It's the summer time folks, my geckos are hugging the cool side as-is, I would hate to bake them with heat lamps and see them suffer. I can understand recommending overhead heat lamp for cold winter or if you live somewhere cool. But for a lot of the States right now, it's pretty darn warm throughout the day and well into the night. All of my geckos are hugging the coolest spots in the tank during the day, that or staying in their moisthides which they wouldn't use without me moving it away from the warm spots during the summer.
I think when it comes to leopard gecko care & husbandry, it's important to remember there's not a "one size fits all" guide. That's why I always say there's not just one right way to take care of leopard geckos, and why I'm always open to different opinions. It's important to take in all the information, but then exercise some personal judgement and see what works for you and your gecko based on your gecko's personality, needs, and a lot of the time based on your location and your situation.
Where I live, southern california, most days now are in the low 80's or high 70's. And since I'm 10mins from the beach, humidity level is also higher where I live (60% today). And to further add to that, my gecko room gets full on sunlight until 1pm in the afternoon, which means the room is well baked by the mornings even with blinds always closed, and it stays warm throughout the evening. Since leopard geckos are crepuscular (most active during dawn & dusk), it's plenty warm here in the evenings for them to wake up and go on a hunt without supplemental heating. You can imagine my gecko's needs are very much different from someone who lives more inland, or in another State, or at different elevation where they may get a bigger temperature fluctuation & drop, or lower humidity levels.
What's funny is while I'm a crybaby complaining about 80's temperature, I know there are a lot of people facing 90's and over 100 degrees during the day and well into the night. My parents for an example, they live more inland, an hour and half from me. Their ambient temperature is 80 degrees at 9pm on most nights during the summer. 80 degrees at 9pm! 95-110 during the day. Ugh, I would be miserable living there, forget about how my geckos would feel. Their humidity level is much lower, at 25%. As you can see, if they were to have a leopard gecko, their care would be so much different from mine. Not only would their moist hides dry out faster, they would probably need to change water every day for their gecko. So heat lamps, it may work well for some, but do check your condition and see whether your gecko really needs it. If your gecko is sleeping in the cool hide during the day, there's a reason for that, and it's because it's comfortable and they wouldn't necessarily want a higher ambient temperature.
My 2 cents, just wanting to bring in a different perspective.
I think when it comes to leopard gecko care & husbandry, it's important to remember there's not a "one size fits all" guide. That's why I always say there's not just one right way to take care of leopard geckos, and why I'm always open to different opinions. It's important to take in all the information, but then exercise some personal judgement and see what works for you and your gecko based on your gecko's personality, needs, and a lot of the time based on your location and your situation.
Where I live, southern california, most days now are in the low 80's or high 70's. And since I'm 10mins from the beach, humidity level is also higher where I live (60% today). And to further add to that, my gecko room gets full on sunlight until 1pm in the afternoon, which means the room is well baked by the mornings even with blinds always closed, and it stays warm throughout the evening. Since leopard geckos are crepuscular (most active during dawn & dusk), it's plenty warm here in the evenings for them to wake up and go on a hunt without supplemental heating. You can imagine my gecko's needs are very much different from someone who lives more inland, or in another State, or at different elevation where they may get a bigger temperature fluctuation & drop, or lower humidity levels.
What's funny is while I'm a crybaby complaining about 80's temperature, I know there are a lot of people facing 90's and over 100 degrees during the day and well into the night. My parents for an example, they live more inland, an hour and half from me. Their ambient temperature is 80 degrees at 9pm on most nights during the summer. 80 degrees at 9pm! 95-110 during the day. Ugh, I would be miserable living there, forget about how my geckos would feel. Their humidity level is much lower, at 25%. As you can see, if they were to have a leopard gecko, their care would be so much different from mine. Not only would their moist hides dry out faster, they would probably need to change water every day for their gecko. So heat lamps, it may work well for some, but do check your condition and see whether your gecko really needs it. If your gecko is sleeping in the cool hide during the day, there's a reason for that, and it's because it's comfortable and they wouldn't necessarily want a higher ambient temperature.
My 2 cents, just wanting to bring in a different perspective.
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cricket4u
New member
Mardy, you're admitting that you do not provide a proper temperature gradient for your geckos. It is our duty as keepers to provide a temperature gradient for our ectotherm friends at all times. The temperatures outside should be irrelevant to the temperatures in their enclosure. In order for you to have a cool side the room temp must be 75 or below.
Your geckos are not comfortable staying away from the warm side all day, they simply do not have a choice because they're unable to thermoregulate. This causes stress to reptiles and can lead to health problems. Digestion, respiration and their immune system if affected by temperatures, therefore it is crucial for us to provide a temperature controlled environment. Many reptiles end up with kidney failure due to loss of fluids via respiration alone when kept in inappropriate temperatures.
A humidity hide within 2 feet of enclosure does not compare to the microclimates and elements that allow them to thermoregulate in the wild. We simply can not duplicate the microclimates available in the wild and have to try to make up for it by providing a range of temperatures at all times. Have it ever crossed your mind that perhaps the reason that your geckos stopped eating is because you allow their warm side to exceed 75f? Perhaps at times it has nothing to do with the obvious, ovulating?
You recently stated that one of your geckos developed mouth and tail rot:
"With my gecko it wasn't dirty environment, as it was a new tank. But the gecko was always timid and stayed in the cool hide, thus her body got cold and immune system was compromised due to it."
Please don't get offended. I am just using this as example to show everyone how important it is to provide a proper temp gradient at all times in order for your gecko to utilize the heat as needed. Chances are your geckos are quite stressed having to spend all day in the cool side, although not apparent.
Your geckos are not comfortable staying away from the warm side all day, they simply do not have a choice because they're unable to thermoregulate. This causes stress to reptiles and can lead to health problems. Digestion, respiration and their immune system if affected by temperatures, therefore it is crucial for us to provide a temperature controlled environment. Many reptiles end up with kidney failure due to loss of fluids via respiration alone when kept in inappropriate temperatures.
A humidity hide within 2 feet of enclosure does not compare to the microclimates and elements that allow them to thermoregulate in the wild. We simply can not duplicate the microclimates available in the wild and have to try to make up for it by providing a range of temperatures at all times. Have it ever crossed your mind that perhaps the reason that your geckos stopped eating is because you allow their warm side to exceed 75f? Perhaps at times it has nothing to do with the obvious, ovulating?
You recently stated that one of your geckos developed mouth and tail rot:
"With my gecko it wasn't dirty environment, as it was a new tank. But the gecko was always timid and stayed in the cool hide, thus her body got cold and immune system was compromised due to it."
Please don't get offended. I am just using this as example to show everyone how important it is to provide a proper temp gradient at all times in order for your gecko to utilize the heat as needed. Chances are your geckos are quite stressed having to spend all day in the cool side, although not apparent.
Muffins94
New member
I agree, yes different places require different care. I was simply saying where I live this works for me, in the colder months. The hot months I use just an UTH because here in my area of CA, were getting 100 degree temps! It all depends on your region. But continuous proper care is key!
GeckoManiac91
New member
For the longest time I did not use a thermostat and it wasn't until joining GU that I read and found out how much of a necessity it is myself! I too thought the ground felt nice and not too hot when really my thermometer WITH a probe was reading temperatures over 108.... I can't stress enough how much this forum has helped me since joining
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Mardy
New member
I've never admitted to not providing proper temperature gradient, and it's apparent you don't know my situation, nor do you understand what happened to the one gecko that had mouth rot & lost her tail. Now that you've brought it up, I'll be happy to explain in more detail.
The gecko that got mouth rot & tail rot wasn't my gecko, it was purchased from another breeder, and she was the most schizophrenic gecko I've ever had. She developed mouth rot & tail rot rather quickly after I got her, so I've always suspected that she wasn't properly cared for while with another breeder. For the first 2 weeks she ran crazily at the sight of me, and always hid in the cool hide even though husbandry was right. She started to develop mouth rot, then her tail tip shriveled. I rehabbed the gecko back to health, not by installing a heat lamp or making ultra detailed changes, but I simply moved the cool hide she always hid in to the warm side. Sure enough, without changing husbandry (which was proper already), she continued to hide in the warm hide and with proper heating, she got back to health without a problem.
She then started eating, and now has a fat regenerated tail, and she owns her 20 gallon terrarium like a boss (aka she does what she wants and is no longer timid). Bad husbandry or improper temperature gradient had absolutely nothing to do with what happened to her. Although I find it weird you have to bring that up without knowing all the details. Lesson learned for me was to always have proper hides, as leopard geckos enjoy tight fitting hides with small openings for privacy. Sometimes they really just prefer one hide over another. A simple swap of hides can do wonders if they really prefer one hide over another. I've used that experience and wrote care guides based on that experience so other hobbyists know how important it is to have proper hides for leopard geckos. She remains the only gecko that has ever gotten mouth rot or tail rot under my watch.
As for the gecko room temperature, did I ever say I don't have the AC on when the temperature gets high? My AC is on when temperature goes over 80 in the rooms, and even with AC on, the geckos still slept on the cool side or moisthide throughout the day. AC is often on from 10am until late in the afternoon, that's when I turn AC off because it starts cooling off. In the evenings when they start waking up and want to go hunting, it's still plenty warm (mid to high 70's) because it's summer time, the ambient temperature naturally is elevated during the summer both day and night. I still see no reason to have a heat lamp where I live because it never gets cold enough that they require them. Nor do I think they'll even enjoy them, especially during the summer.
I'm not offended, but I'd appreciate it if you don't assume the worst all the time. I understand you dislike breeders, but not all breeders are alike. If you've seen my gecko room, you would know I'm as much a hobbyist as anybody else here. But my opinions remain, there is not a "one size fits all" care guide for leopard geckos, nor is there just one right way to take care of leopard geckos. It's important for hobbyists to read all there is out there, then take a subjective approach and see what works for them the best. What works for someone else may not work the best for you and your gecko.