Climbing up the walls! You're not a crestie!

HeKai

New member
So my leopard gecko can be odd at times. He has been known to try and climb the glass of his enclosure. Concerning, albeit cute, apparently this is not good for their spines.

A few weeks ago he would literally look up (that is where my hand comes from so maybe he knows that is out) and proceed to climb the highest thing in the cage, then look up again. I even got him an artificial jade plant which he seems to think is a jungle gym. If I put my hand in, he will crawl in. My interpretation is that he wants out. I asked the vet today (see below) and he suggested that the gecko is drawn to the heat of my hand. Well, he doesn't seem interested in my hand outside his cage except in what seems to me like specific situations. Tonight I would say that most of the tank is warmer than my hand also.

He is currently not doing well, he has a necrotic tail and is supposed to start antibiotics on Friday. In any case, I am using several UTH to keep the temp at 85 F + (Until tonight, I didn't realize how much different spots on the bad vary with temperature). There are spots that are 80/81, he has a moist hide and a huge bowl of water (I am trying to cover up spaces that are well above 90, like 96 or so. Or adding paper towel). He is at least active but is going from corner to corner, trying to climb the glass. Any ideas of what is going on? It is hard enough seeing him trying to get out but it is torture when he is sick. I am assuming there is something very very off with my husbandry.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Here's the other thread: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...lth-diseases/70246-tail-rot-3.html#post401580

All husbandry is connected.

Posting 2 separate threads makes it much more difficult for GU members to see what has gone on before without doing searches :-(.

Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the UTH on 24/7. Can turn off overhead heating at night.

Best to invest in a thermostat and a larger tank. That will help keep the temperatures much more stable.

In a 51 x 28 x 32 cm tank, it is basically impossible to get a proper cool end and warm end. A tank 76 x 31 x 31 cm is strongly recommended.
 
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HeKai

New member
Wasn't my intent, I was trying to respect the request to post things in appropriate threads :)

It looks like I can include links which might make it simpler. Not thinking too well, sorry.
 

Conched

New member
You mentioned a "very" large water bowl. You also mention temps that are on the high side "96 or so".

That combo will cause high humidity levels. Leo's don't need a large water bowl.

Do you have UTH under the entire enclosure ?

Something sounds a bit off. Can you post a picture of the enclosure and maybe one of the leo ?
 

HeKai

New member
yes, I have heat under the entire enclosure. He is going to start a course of antibiotics so he needs to be at 85 minimum. Good point about the humidity. I am going to set up overhead lighting today instead to try and get those temps up as the heating mat (or mats) are not consistent. 96 scares me, it is far too high.
 

Conched

New member
You only want heat 25 - 30% of the enclosure using the UTH. The idea is to have a temperature gradient. I am thinking your UTH is what's causing health problems with your Leo.
 

HeKai

New member
Thanks. The vet said while he is on antibiotics he can't have anything cooler than 85. I am going to set up lights. I hope gecko antibiotic courses aren't too long. He isn't going to like not being able to cool down and it is hard to get the entire enclosure a consistent temperature.

Anyway, maybe I will stop posting on this thread until he is better :)
 

Ignitius

New member
Thanks. The vet said while he is on antibiotics he can't have anything cooler than 85. I am going to set up lights. I hope gecko antibiotic courses aren't too long. He isn't going to like not being able to cool down and it is hard to get the entire enclosure a consistent temperature.

Anyway, maybe I will stop posting on this thread until he is better :)

Hopefully keeping the UTH on one side and creating that gradient will help more than anything. Depending on where you are, you may not even need lights for supplemental heat (I could be wrong, though).
 

HeKai

New member
we'll see, I keep my home pretty warm in the winter but the ambient temps might be too cool for him, :) Anyway, supplemental heat for a basking spot, yes?
 
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