Tommy's Thread.

matt0101

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FaaFaa

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Maybe he didn't eat as much because he was hungry from his large mealworm meal :) Don't panic yet. I personally do not think that mealworms are a HUGE impaction threat. I have always fed them as part of a healthy diet full of variety and have never had an issue. I guess if your worried you could always give him a little soak if he will tolerate it. That has helped to get things moving with every lizard I have ever had.
 

matt0101

New member
Maybe he didn't eat as much because he was hungry from his large mealworm meal :) Don't panic yet. I personally do not think that mealworms are a HUGE impaction threat. I have always fed them as part of a healthy diet full of variety and have never had an issue. I guess if your worried you could always give him a little soak if he will tolerate it. That has helped to get things moving with every lizard I have ever had.

thanks, if he doesn't poop in the next couple days i'll attempt to give him his first soak. i'm not sure how well he'll tolerate it though, he always seems so frightened of me. it makes me sad because i'm only trying to help him. :(
 
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cricket4u

New member
Hi,

Can you update us of any changes? Have you switched the size of the UTH? The long one posted in this thread can be a problem with providing a temp gradient.

This morning in his usual pooping spot I found a tiny bit of smeared poop on the paper towel, but not the big brown log he usually leaves for me. It almost seems like he was trying to poop but couldn't get it all out?

Good observation.

http://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/leopard-geckos-health-diseases/70227-first-shedding.html

A picture of how his enclosure is set up today will be helpful.

Temperatures in the enclosure? cool side? warm side air? under the warm hide?
What supplements are you dusting with?
Type of thermometer?
Where is he spending most of his time?
 
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cricket4u

New member
I haven't made any changes yet. His enclosure is exactly the same as the latest pictures I have posted. I'm not going to install the larger UTH until I clean his enclosure next week, but I can assure you that it takes up almost exactly 1/3 of the floor of the enclosure as specified in the care sheet (i've done the actual math.)

the temperatures in the air on the cold end move between 70-85, and the hot side is likely similar. i don't use the heat lamp much just because it's so hot outside already and it seems like that would be overkill. the temperature in the warm hide stays between 89 and 93 for the most part.

i'm dusting his crickets and mealworms 2x weekly with exo-terra calcium+d3, and exo-terra multivitamin. i feed my crickets rep-cal cricket food in addition to apple slices, baby carrots, and spinach leaves. i feed my mealworms baby carrots and a leaf of spinach once a week when i take them out of the fridge to warm up for a day.

i leave a very small bottle cap and fill it approx 1/4 full of exo-terra calcium without d3.

i use a thermostat for the warm hide, and a digital thermometer for the air in the cold end.

he spends nearly all of his time in the warm hide, using the moist hide periodically to lap up water. i don't think he touches his water dish.
I guess it was just a coincidence that he was in the humidity hide in the picture.


Discontinue feeding the insects spinach. Spinach may interfere with calcium.

I doubt that you will achieve a good temp gradient using a UTH in that position. There's just not enough room left in that direction so chances are the temps will be a disaster. The hide will have to fit awkwardly. I would really hate for you to stick that UTH on and then realize it won't work.

Your gecko needs a cool side at all times. A fluctuation between 70-85 is not appropriate. This should be the air temp range going across at all times. Do you have an AC unit?

If you use an AC and set it to turn off and on at a certain temp, it will allow the cool side to remain within proper temps, therefore you can use the digital to monitor the warm side instead. You will need an overhead heat source to provide warm air temps. If you use a bulb, place it on a rheostat. If you go with a CHE, attach it to a thermostat.

Are you relying on the thermostat probe reading for the uth temp? It would be best to have a digital probe placed next to it for accuracy.

Exo-Terra makes several supplements. Can you provide a link to show me exactly which ones you are using?
 
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matt0101

New member
I guess it was just a coincidence that he was in the humidity hide in the picture.


Discontinue feeding the insects spinach. Spinach may interfere with calcium.

I doubt that you will achieve a good temp gradient using a UTH in that position. There's just not enough room left so chances are the temps will be a disaster. The hide will have to fit awkwardly. I would really hate for you to stick that UTH on and then realize it won't work.

Your gecko needs a cool side at all times. A fluctuation between 70-85 is not appropriate. This should be the air temp range going across at all times. Do you have an AC unit?

If you use an AC and set it to turn off and on at a certain temp, it will allow the cool side to remain within proper temps, therefore you can use the digital to monitor the warm side instead. You will need an overhead heat source to provide warm air temps. If you use a bulb, place it on a rheostat. If you go with a CHE, attach it to a thermostat.

Are you relying on the thermostat probe reading for the uth temp? It would be best to have a digital probe placed next to it for accuracy.

Exo-Terra makes several supplements. Can you provide a link to show me exactly which ones you are using?

I will discontinue feeding the insects spinach. Both the entire humid hide and the entire warm hide fit onto the larger UTH perfectly, not awkwardly. I don't have an AC unit. I am relying on the thermostat probe, I only have one digital thermometer.

Supplements are as follows:

Exo Terra : Calcium + D3 / Calcium + D3 Powder Supplement
Exo Terra : Calcium / Calcium Powder Supplement
Exo Terra : Multi Vitamin / Multi Vitamin Powder Supplement
 

cricket4u

New member
I will discontinue feeding the insects spinach. Both the entire humid hide and the entire warm hide fit onto the larger UTH perfectly, not awkwardly. I don't have an AC unit. I am relying on the thermostat probe, I only have one digital thermometer.

Supplements are as follows:

Exo Terra : Calcium + D3 / Calcium + D3 Powder Supplement
Exo Terra : Calcium / Calcium Powder Supplement
Exo Terra : Multi Vitamin / Multi Vitamin Powder Supplement

Exo-terra supplements really give me a headache. The plain calcium should be plain, yet it contains extras such as copper, ferrous fumarate(great for constipation and toxicity)which should be in the multivitamin supplement. Then again it just says calcium powder supplement. Very confusing and dangerous for those not familiar with ingredients.

These are horrible products and I highly recommend that you switch to Zoo Med. Remove the calcium from the enclosure ASAP. It would be best to buy Zoo med repti-calcium with d3 and Reptivite without d3. I can not provide you with a dusting schedule, however I suggest that you use the Reptivite (multivitamin) less frequently than the calcium with d3.

If you prefer to keep plain calcium in the enclosure, purchase the Zoo med 100% calcium carbonate (no d3).

Unfortunately, the only way to provide a proper temp gradient during the summer is to use air conditioning. I suggest that you purchase one.

Think twice about the UTH before you stick in on. There's really not enough room left in that direction that will allow a varied temp range.
 
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matt0101

New member
I'll get zoo med supplements when my current supplements run out. I'll remove the calcium from the tank. I don't see why the UTH i have wouldn't work. someone in my other thread asking about it said it would work fine. who am i to believe, and why?

I don't have the money for an air conditioner, nor for the power to run one, so that isn't happening. If that's so much of an issue that I shouldn't own a gecko, I guess my only option is to return him to the pet store. He spends all of his time in his warm hide. It seems clear to me that he's trying to get warmer, not colder, but i'm no expert.
 
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cricket4u

New member
I'll get zoo med supplements when my current supplements run out. I'll remove the calcium from the tank. I don't see why the UTH i have wouldn't work. someone in my other thread asking about it said it would work fine. who am i to believe, and why?

I don't have the money for an air conditioner, nor for the power to run one, so that isn't happening. If that's so much of an issue that I shouldn't own a gecko, I guess my only option is to return him to the pet store. He spends all of his time in his warm hide. It seems clear to me that he's trying to get warmer, not colder, but i'm no expert.

Well, that's why it's important to do your research ahead of time. Perhaps you can work a few more hours to earn extra money? Make a few sacrifices here and there? If you are young and live with parents, maybe you can do some chores around the house to earn money and help them pay for the electric bill?

Perhaps he feels more secure in the warm hide?

You stated he spends all his time in the warm hide, but it was apparent he was in the humidity hide in the picture.

I guess the only way to find out if it will work is by trying it.
 

cricket4u

New member
That's exactly what I was just about to post. I noticed you mentioned in another thread that the temp was slightly above 70F.:)
 

cricket4u

New member
Perhaps those were the times he moved to the humidity hide. There is still a risk of dehydration or digestive problems. Right now you are concerned about constipation and dehydration can be a factor. Of course it can be related to several other issues such as the calcium in the enclosure containing iron.

It would be best to switch products right away. The exo-terra uses beta-carotene which is a form that insectivores may not be able to metabolize. If not your gecko is at risk for Vitamin A deficiency.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
I'm disabled and mostly housebound, so I can't work, and I'm on a fixed income. I decided owning a pet would be an interesting and relatively cheap hobby. I had budgeted in supplies that I'd need to replace like paper towel, supplements, crickets and worms. I got my tank and some accessories for free; it used to house a corn snake who died of old age at 18 (vet autopsy confirmed), and the tank was cleaned thoroughly several times over many years as dust piled up inside it, etc. I did research for a month and a half ahead of time and this is the first I've heard anything about an air conditioner.

I stated in post #5 that he spends most of his time in his warm hide, but periodically goes to his moist hide to drink water. I caught him doing the latter in those pictures.

I should also note that very rarely does the cage ever go past 80 degrees, and probably stays below 75 about 60% of the time. I think i've only seen it at 85 once.

Perhaps those were the times he moved to the humidity hide. There is still a risk of dehydration or digestive problems. Right now you are concerned about constipation and dehydration can be a factor. Of course it can be related to several other issues such as the calcium in the enclosure containing iron.

It would be best to switch products right away. The exo-terra uses beta-carotene which is a form that insectivores may not be able to metabolize. If not your gecko is at risk for Vitamin A deficiency.

Matt ~

Can you please refresh my memory about the range of temperatures you are able to provide for your leo? Many locales get warm in the summer above the minimum recommended levels. Excessively high seasonal temperatures months on end is a problem.

Cricket4u's concerns about Exo Terra products have been duly notied and recorded in the appropriate place.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Matt ~

Thanks for your reply. I can tell that you have the welfare of your new leo at heart.

right now the air in the cold end is 74, and the floor of the warm hide is 92. the air temperatures fluctuate with the weather outside as i don't have an AC unit, but they generally don't go much past 80 and usually hover around the mid 70's.

Ideal warm air temps could be higher. Might wish to use your night-heat lamp during all but the hot days?

it was a very hot day yesterday (cold end was 80), so i put a fan on in the room and that brought it down to 77. it's not much, but it's the best i can do. an AC unit just isn't economically feasible for me, and if it turns out i absolutely need one, i will have no choice but to return my gecko to the pet store. i live in Canada, so the ambient temperature will start drop naturally in a month anyway. then, if it gets too cold, i can use my night-heat lamp!

he really seems okay now though. he was even up and active this morning! i watched him go to his mealworm dish and back to his warm hide 3 times all on his own, grabbing a meal worm each time. it was adorable! he is definitely growing and gaining weight too. i've only had him for 2 weeks, but i can already see a difference in bulk, especially on his tail.

Sounds to me like you are doing a good job with your leo. Have you decided upon a calcium powder with D3 and some multivitamin?

What size tank do you have? Please accept my sincere apologies if you have already posted this somewhere.

Below are the ideal temps cricket4u and I like to see.

Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the UTH on 24/7. Can turn off overhead heating at night.

A light timer can be purchased for not too much money to automatically turn off any overhead night lights.
 
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matt0101

New member
yep, i'm getting zoo med supplements cricket4u suggested. i ordered a 2 oz bottle of each yesterday and i'll get 8 oz bottles once the 2's start to run out.

the tank is 24"x18"x12".
 
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