Lighting & UTH

[GeckoManiac91]

Well, this is nuts. I got the right tower, thermostat and all, it's exactly what I need, but it doesn't work! I just set it all up, and it must have been a return or something. So I'll have to take it back tomorrow and get another one... I'm beyond frustrated by this.

Elizabeth - I would love to borrow the one from my office, but the person who had my job before me was fired for theft (among other illegal activities) so I don't even want to broach the subject of borrowing something, ha ha.

Frustration aside, I do think this thermostat tower fan will help a lot. Now I just need to get little Reggie acclimated to the UTH.

It might be stressful and frustrating now but in the future your gecko will appreciate its long, happy life you are able to provide it with

 

[ChiTea]

Agreed. I love coming home to his sweet little gecko face.

 

[ChiTea]

Good news! I haven't had a chance to exchange the faulty room cooler yet, and it was supposed to hit 100 degrees today (it did). So before I left for work this morning, I arranged my doors so that the air conditioning would blow through my living room, across the hall, and into Reggie's room - and it worked! I came home and his temps were just perfect, even though it was 95 outside.

Even better news: I turned on the UTH to just 2 degrees above the temp on the warm side, and he's still in the hide that's above the heater! It's only been about half an hour, and I did only raise the temp slightly, but I'm hoping this will get him used to a warm tummy.

 

[cricket4u]

Good news! I haven't had a chance to exchange the faulty room cooler yet, and it was supposed to hit 100 degrees today (it did). So before I left for work this morning, I arranged my doors so that the air conditioning would blow through my living room, across the hall, and into Reggie's room - and it worked! I came home and his temps were just perfect, even though it was 95 outside.

Even better news: I turned on the UTH to just 2 degrees above the temp on the warm side, and he's still in the hide that's above the heater! It's only been about half an hour, and I did only raise the temp slightly, but I'm hoping this will get him used to a warm tummy.

Just curious, what are the final temps your gecko appears to be comfortable with? You mentioned 2 degrees higher, 86 belly heat? How about the air temperature?

 

[ChiTea]

Hi Cricket,

I missed this post earlier for some reason. Anyways, he's most comfortable between 84 and 87. I know that's on the low side of what's recommended, but he's the most 'normal' with those temps. Even in the low 90's, he sometimes won't eat. The other day, the air temp was 86, so I set the UTH for 88, and he was good with it for a while. Since then, it seems to be hit or miss with him. Yesterday, I don't think he went near the UTH at all, but he did sporadically last week. He's a funny one!

Since I've been leaving the air conditioning on during the day, he's definitely been more active with a heartier appetite. I went to take some pics of him the other day, but he wouldn't do more than poke his head out of the hides.

 

[cricket4u]

Since then, it seems to be hit or miss with him.

I'm not surprised due to the lack of temperature control. There will be tremendous air temperature fluctuation unless the air conditioner is set to turn on and off once it reaches a desired room temp.

You mentioned a few temperatures, however you did not specify whether ground temp or air? I'm assuming between 84 and 87 is belly heat? The temperatures recommended are only estimates based on personal experiences. You will always want to offer various options in order to find what your leo is comfortable with. This is one of the reasons I always recommend longer enclosures. It will allow more space, more hides and overall options.

I will mention that I've never had a leo who is comfortable in air temperatures higher than 85, so you may want to keep that in mind.

Since I've been leaving the air conditioning on during the day, he's definitely been more active with a heartier appetite.

Very good! You're on the right path.

 

[ChiTea]

Hey everyone,

I'm getting ready to purchase the CHE, but I have more questions (surprise, surprise). Should it be on 24/7, or would it be best to hook it up to another thermostat, or even a timer? Since this will be replacing my heat lamp, I need some other sort of light source, right? Otherwise, it gets very dark in the tank after the sun goes down, before I get home from work to turn the room lights on.

What do you guys think? Here's the CHE I'm looking at: Amazon.com: Exo Terra Ceramic Heater, 40-Watt/110-Volt: Pet Supplies

thanks, as always!
ChiTea

 

[GeckoManiac91]

Hey everyone,

I'm getting ready to purchase the CHE, but I have more questions (surprise, surprise). Should it be on 24/7, or would it be best to hook it up to another thermostat, or even a timer? Since this will be replacing my heat lamp, I need some other sort of light source, right? Otherwise, it gets very dark in the tank after the sun goes down, before I get home from work to turn the room lights on.

What do you guys think? Here's the CHE I'm looking at: Amazon.com: Exo Terra Ceramic Heater, 40-Watt/110-Volt: Pet Supplies

thanks, as always!
ChiTea

It should be connected to a thermostat regardless of whether or not you choose to keep it on 24/7. Temperature drops are not essential so whether or not you choose to keep the over head heating in 24/7 or not is up to you. Another benefit to the CHE; No light I would opt for a 60watt bulb or even higher because you will be able to have more temperature control with the thermostat.

If you chose to turn off over head heating at night then yes a timer is a good idea. Simply plug your CHE into the thermostat and then plug the thermostat into the timer.

With lighting all you need is 10-14hours of light during the day. As long as there's ambient light coming in through a window you'll be fine

 

[ChiTea]

I did want to keep the CHE on at night, because it tends to get chilly.

I don't need to have any light on at night at all? It's verrrrry dark without a light, and he's always had the red heat lamp on at night. Won't he get scared suddenly not being able to see at night?

 

[GeckoManiac91]

I did want to keep the CHE on at night, because it tends to get chilly.

I don't need to have any light on at night at all? It's verrrrry dark without a light, and he's always had the red heat lamp on at night. Won't he get scared suddenly not being able to see at night?

Then by all means leave it on at night

No, not at all, he won't get scared

 

[mecoat]

I'd be tempted to go for the lower temperature. I had a 100W CHE, and it totally messed up my temps. Even with a thermostat the temps rocketed so high so quickly it was unreal. I watched it rise one time on a thermometer - a 10-20 F difference in less than 30 seconds, let's just say the thermostat can't keep up with that kind of difference.

I've now got a 25W in and the temps are much more stable. Even if it's on for longer than a higher Wattage, I think the temps'll be more stable.

 

[ChiTea]

I live in Los Angeles, so it's warm all the time. Where did you get your 25W? I had trouble finding a 40W bulb online, let alone in a store... Thanks for the tip!

 

[GeckoManiac91]

I'd be tempted to go for the lower temperature. I had a 100W CHE, and it totally messed up my temps. Even with a thermostat the temps rocketed so high so quickly it was unreal. I watched it rise one time on a thermometer - a 10-20 F difference in less than 30 seconds, let's just say the thermostat can't keep up with that kind of difference.

I've now got a 25W in and the temps are much more stable. Even if it's on for longer than a higher Wattage, I think the temps'll be more stable.

I'm curious as to what type of thermometer you were using?

 

[ChiTea]

I live in Los Angeles, so it's warm all the time. Where did you get your 25W? I had trouble finding a 40W bulb online, let alone in a store... Thanks for the tip!

 

[mecoat]

Original one came from Amazon, but more recent one (spare) came from ebay. I think I've got the second one off hand (from Hong Kong), but see what suits you.

Reptile Vivarium Ceramic Heat Emitters 25W White Screw Type ES27 1? | eBay
AC 220-240V 25W Ceramic Emitter Heater Pet Reptile Heat Lamp Bulb Black | eBay
220V-240V Ceramic Emitter Heated Pet Appliances Reptile Heat Breeding Light T5 | eBay

Good Luck.

P.S. the thermometer I was using was a smart material one (one with coloured bars that light up at different temps) about 6 bars were all lit up at the same time when the bulb was on up to well over 100F. Let's just say Daff was very unhappy with this variation in his viv temps in such a short space of time. He's much happier with the more stable 25W temps. Even though it's on for longer than it's off in general, the temps are far more stable than turning on the 100W for 30secs then having the temps skyrocket then switch off for ages while the temps go back to a reasonable temperature.

 

[GeckoManiac91]

P.S. the thermometer I was using was a smart material one (one with coloured bars that light up at different temps) about 6 bars were all lit up at the same time when the bulb was on up to well over 100F. Let's just say Daff was very unhappy with this variation in his viv temps in such a short space of time. He's much happier with the more stable 25W temps. Even though it's on for longer than it's off in general, the temps are far more stable than turning on the 100W for 30secs then having the temps skyrocket then switch off for ages while the temps go back to a reasonable temperature.

I have never heard nor run into this problem with sky rocketing temperatures. I have always been told to go for the higher wattage and I myself did that. I went for a 60watt when the 40watt would have worked fine. Hooked up the light to my thermostat, taped the probe 4inches above the substrate on the warm side (right beside the thermometer) and then everything worked and still works perfect!

I'm curious as to what your temperatures would read with a digital thermometer? I don't much trust the accuracy of other thermometers. I have tested analog thermometers and have got readings waaaay off. I have used the Exo-Terra stick on thermometer with the coloured bars that light up, such as the one you have, and its hard to even tell what temperature it's reading. So many temperatures are lit up, how do you even know?

 

[mecoat]

I have never heard nor run into this problem with sky rocketing temperatures. I have always been told to go for the higher wattage and I myself did that. I went for a 60watt when the 40watt would have worked fine. Hooked up the light to my thermostat, taped the probe 4inches above the substrate on the warm side (right beside the thermometer) and then everything worked and still works perfect!

I'm curious as to what your temperatures would read with a digital thermometer? I don't much trust the accuracy of other thermometers. I have tested analog thermometers and have got readings waaaay off. I have used the Exo-Terra stick on thermometer with the coloured bars that light up, such as the one you have, and its hard to even tell what temperature it's reading. So many temperatures are lit up, how do you even know?

I have a digital too, and the temps read the same, but I find for quick, rough measurements the strip is better (the digital takes longer to settle). Basically the smart materials light up if they get to the temperature that they are designed for, each one seperately, then gradually (a few secs-1min) fade as the temp changes. Only one or two should be lit at a time, unless you've just changed something drastic (eg taken from your slightly chilly room, and put direct onto the heat mat). I had the strip in the viv and it was stable, until the 100W turned on, then it lit up like a Christmas tree - one after the other - so quickly that about 1/2 the strip was lit up before the thermostat clicked off (about 30 secs after turning on). Then they gradually turned off leaving the temp showing at over 100 (the thermsotat was set to 85/6ish). Daff was sooooo not happy. He's much happier now that the 25W provides much more stable temps, still on the thermostat.

 

[ChiTea]

Just placed an order for a CHE. I decided to go with the 40W because 25W seemed too low to me... I figured that I can try it for a day, and if it's not ideal, I'll exchange it for a different wattage.

Thanks for all the tips, guys!

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Original one came from Amazon, but more recent one (spare) came from ebay. I think I've got the second one off hand (from Hong Kong), but see what suits you.

Reptile Vivarium Ceramic Heat Emitters 25W White Screw Type ES27 1? | eBay
AC 220-240V 25W Ceramic Emitter Heater Pet Reptile Heat Lamp Bulb Black | eBay
220V-240V Ceramic Emitter Heated Pet Appliances Reptile Heat Breeding Light T5 | eBay

Good Luck.

P.S. the thermometer I was using was a smart material one (one with coloured bars that light up at different temps) about 6 bars were all lit up at the same time when the bulb was on up to well over 100F. Let's just say Daff was very unhappy with this variation in his viv temps in such a short space of time. He's much happier with the more stable 25W temps. Even though it's on for longer than it's off in general, the temps are far more stable than turning on the 100W for 30secs then having the temps skyrocket then switch off for ages while the temps go back to a reasonable temperature.

I have a digital too, and the temps read the same, but I find for quick, rough measurements the strip is better (the digital takes longer to settle). Basically the smart materials light up if they get to the temperature that they are designed for, each one seperately, then gradually (a few secs-1min) fade as the temp changes. Only one or two should be lit at a time, unless you've just changed something drastic (eg taken from your slightly chilly room, and put direct onto the heat mat). I had the strip in the viv and it was stable, until the 100W turned on, then it lit up like a Christmas tree - one after the other - so quickly that about 1/2 the strip was lit up before the thermostat clicked off (about 30 secs after turning on). Then they gradually turned off leaving the temp showing at over 100 (the thermsotat was set to 85/6ish). Daff was sooooo not happy. He's much happier now that the 25W provides much more stable temps, still on the thermostat.

mecoat ~

Thanks for sharing these results of your LCD (?) test .

Is the strip you speak one of those Zoo Med (.75 inch x 5.25 inch) LCDs (liquid crystal displays)? As we speak I have a brand new Zoo Med LCD on the wall right next to my gecko room's Honeywell thermostat. It is NOT stuck to the wall with the adhesive which comes on it. The Honeywell reads 76 F; the LCD has the 75, 80, and 82 bars lit up. So how do you know what the temperature really is?

All 3 bars seem to stay lit. :-( The LCD thermometer has been on the wall a long time.

Something else concerns me. You mention your thermostat was set for 85-86 F, yet the LCD measured over 100 F? At that point was the thermostat still on...still heating?

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Just placed an order for a CHE. I decided to go with the 40W because 25W seemed too low to me... I figured that I can try it for a day, and if it's not ideal, I'll exchange it for a different wattage.

Thanks for all the tips, guys!

Be sure to update this thread with the results of your tests. We can all learn .