Sparty not eating willingly, been 5 days

cricket4u

New member
vet he told me there was nothing he could do.

About? I'm sure he must of mentioned some diagnostics to find out the reason why, if you went to see him/her. I can't imagine a vet just tell you there's nothing I can do without trying everything first. I know for a fact tests would have been offered, whether you refused due to cost is another story.

My concern is that all this time makes her susceptible to fatty liver disease. If she started eating now, I must suspect it's due to increased temperatures and/or humidity in your area. It's really not a good idea to allow this to repeat itself. Check your temperatures and humidity carefully and make sure that they remain adequate.
 
Last edited:

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Yes, i answered that there are urates when she poops and there always has been. They are normal sized.

And interested, i'd like to read more about the calcium deal.

She gets a multi-vitamin. It's the zoomed one, i thought i said that..I also use this vitamin spray as well that i bought initially until I was told it wasn't good because it only had Beta Carotene. I use that once a week and the zoomed once a week. Here's a picture View attachment 27048

About keeping plain calcium in the enclosure 24/7:

Check mod Hilde's posts that I have quoted on posts #22 and #48 (with linked post #5) immediately following the Basic Guidelines section of the Leo Care Sheet linked below. Hilde shares very clear information about this.
 

Amuna1225

New member
When I took her in, the vet (herp vet) stated she seems like a healthy gecko. Her weight didn't drop much due to force feedings/water/vitamins given through a syringe in her mouth. She always has a wet hide but is usually only in there for sheddings. She was shedding normally during the time she was not eating willingly however it did seem she was shedding more than usual. I suspected she was doing this to keep herself alive? The vet stated that may be the cause as well. She's been shedding every two weeks lately. There is no longer plain calcium in her cage and the temperature/humidity in the cage have had no changes. Everything is the way it's suppossed to be. She was pooping normally as well after the force feedings, ect.
 

cricket4u

New member
When I took her in, the vet (herp vet) stated she seems like a healthy gecko. Her weight didn't drop much due to force feedings/water/vitamins given through a syringe in her mouth. She always has a wet hide but is usually only in there for sheddings. She was shedding normally during the time she was not eating willingly however it did seem she was shedding more than usual. I suspected she was doing this to keep herself alive? The vet stated that may be the cause as well. She's been shedding every two weeks lately. There is no longer plain calcium in her cage and the temperature/humidity in the cage have had no changes. Everything is the way it's suppossed to be. She was pooping normally as well after the force feedings, ect.



Did you ever correct her photoperiod?
 
Last edited:

Amuna1225

New member
Update: Sparty has eaten 12-15 worms every other day since I posted. She wants to eat every day, but you guys told me to take it easy so I'm not feeding her every day. Since she's hungry, should I feed her every day?
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Did you ever correct her photoperiod?

What is that?


Update: Sparty ate 8 more worms today. No feces yet, expecting one today or tomorrow. Will not feed again until I see poop.

You might ask cricket4u about the photoperiod since she's the person who asked.

Update: Sparty has eaten 12-15 worms every other day since I posted. She wants to eat every day, but you guys told me to take it easy so I'm not feeding her every day. Since she's hungry, should I feed her every day?

Is she eating these mealworms independently? How about alternating crickets and mealworms?

Please post a current picture of Sparty so we can see how she looks.

What did she weigh at the herp vet?

So Sparty is nearly 14 months old now?
 
Last edited:

Amuna1225

New member
She's eating them by herself and she's just like she was before she stopped eating. As soon as she sees them she comes running out of her hide and aggressively eats the worms. It's awesome and I'm so happy that she's eating again. Here is a picture taken yesterday. I have noticed her tail already starting to get bigger.
 

Attachments

  • WP_20140317_003.jpg
    WP_20140317_003.jpg
    89.9 KB · Views: 6

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
She's eating them by herself and she's just like she was before she stopped eating. As soon as she sees them she comes running out of her hide and aggressively eats the worms. It's awesome and I'm so happy that she's eating again. Here is a picture taken yesterday. I have noticed her tail already starting to get bigger.

Good eating, Sparty! See how happy you're making your dad?

How about alternating 15 - 18 mealworms every other day with an equivalent amount of crickets on the other day? Genuine Phoenix worms are also great sources of nutrition.
 
Last edited:

Amuna1225

New member
She has no interest in Phoenix worms. Tried them multiple times when I first got her and back in september and she would spit them right back out. She also has no interest in hornworms or wax worms. She will eat crickets occasionally and was planning on picking some of them up tomorrow. Also, im a guy...I thought we've covered this before.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
She has no interest in Phoenix worms. Tried them multiple times when I first got her and back in september and she would spit them right back out. She also has no interest in hornworms or wax worms. She will eat crickets occasionally and was planning on picking some of them up tomorrow. Also, im a guy...I thought we've covered this before.

Thanks for your info on other feeders. Good on getting some crickets soon.

Sorry about forgetting your sex. Your GU profile gives very little information.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Leopard Gecko: Photoperiod

To Establish Some Necessary Photoperiod
A proper photoperiod is all about mimicing lighting (& heating) the particular reptile would experience in its natural environment. Short of having a comprehensive and expensive computer-controlled system that tweaks the lighting second by second, well minute by minute anyway, we can only approximate this goal. (If anyone has comments, please let me know via a PM.)

Since November 2013 this is what I have done. My leo Cha has been out and about more with her dawn-and-dusk-like lighting. The photoperiod light from my 5.5 inch dome is somewhat shaded by a tall silk palm tree in the center of the enclosure. Some natural daylight via distant windows and a sliding glass door adds to these methods. Vary the on-time monthly according to this Pakistan link.

Click: Sunrise Sunset Daylight Hours of Pakistan -- Timebie

Place a low wattage bulb (15 watt standard incandescent bulb) inside a 5.5 inch diameter fixture in the center of the screen top and right next to the Ceramic Heat Emitting bulb. Dim this 15 watt bulb to half power to provide dawn-and-dusk-like lighting since leos are crepuscular. It can be very small and simple. Vary the ON time seasonally according to leos' native habitat. For example, 11 hours ON for February is good.
 
Last edited:
Top