New Leo Home with multiple substrate

Solagratia500

New member
Jimi, Was kind confused as to why you send me that link...it didn't really show my anything..the guy even state that he doesn't put calcium and leave it in the enclosure so that obviously doesn't have anything to do with the poop..along with the fact that no one really seemed to know what was up and it's a bunch of assumption making. It's stuff like this, you can try to tell me all day long, but when you use proof of joe shmoe with 2 leopards preachin over in the corner there's no way in hell I'ma believe that. Like I said I've talked to vets and many leopard gecko breeders do the same thing and recommend it.
Gut loading and dusting -should- be enough. Should. But as you said there aren't many scientific article on the matter. That said who knows, we may not be giving enough, as well as breeder females need extra when producing eggs.But I'm not gonna trust everyone on GU, I've seen some really wacked out people on here before(one guy was trying to say two males can totally go together if kept from birth -facepalm-)

I find is incredibly amusing that with such a lack of scientific information on this animals nutritional needs that people always feel confident to control every aspect of supplement intake regardless and think they know best. These animals and their ancestors have been monitoring their own nutritional intake(and they don't die!...well..not of supplements 0.0;) for long before our species even existed. Granted yes, they are now different than their ancestors in the fact that they're domesticated. But I have never once see a vet go "oh yea to much calcium totally killed this gecko". They just...don't eat calcium if they don't need it. They're primitive but they aren't vegetables.

There are even instances in other reptiles that show we don't know better. At first a species of iguana when gravid would intake way to much calcium and people freaked out and cut them back drastically because they were getting Hypercalcemia(which we think is bad right?). Well now they're finding out that female iguanas actually should reach that level of calcium intake even though we think it's bad, it's actually said by vets that yes, this is the amount they should intake and yes this is normal. So obviously our knowledge hasn't always been the best. that said, if my geckos get enough from dusting, then they should never touch the bowl and it's there for decoration. As is I really never see them use it. But I feel better giving them the option rather than say I know the exact amount of calcium to the 0.01g that they need.

Also sorry sidenote..I see leopards die of MBD SO much more half the time because people are lazy and don't dust the crickets enough. Bad on them but it's funny to see people arguing to much calcium when the real problem to fight is lack there of.
 

Completeleopard

New member
Solagratia,

Please remember that too much Calcium is just as bad for Leo's as too little. It is surely much less risk if we supplement them the way the proven guidelines tell us too.

It is very unlikely you will catch your Gecko licking the Calcium unless you watch them all the time.

Also, if they are not licking it, what's the point in having it in the enclosure? Its been proven that Leo's don't know when they've had too much D3, maybe the same applies to normal Calcium?
 

Solagratia500

New member
Like I said..I've talked to vets as long as it is normal calcium with out d3 they do know the difference and don't od on it. You run into problems when you use calcium with d3. I've also tried to look up specific problems with just calcium and have found none. As well as most of the guidelines I've ever looked up which were from professional breeders all say to keep calcium in the enclosures as well.
 

Completeleopard

New member
OK no worries,

There are clearly opinions on each side it is mainly down to preference.

think its time to get back on topic now though.
 

Solagratia500

New member
YThis is true..didn't realize how farw e got o.o; sorry op. The different substrates is a neat idea though. You can also try tile, it's much easier to clean than carpet


Edit: also I hope I didn't offend anyone I'm not trying to argue I viewed this more of a friendly debate myself. Also I didn't write any of you off I took what you all said to heart and actually did more research last night an this morning just to make sure! So thank you for your responses. That said I got sidetracked as found some awesome articles one even listing reptiles and the optimal digestion temperatures for different species( why didn't I put it on here?! Now ill never find it again). But anywho just wanted to make sure no one got upset over all this :) I really enjoy these kind of discussion s with other keepers, it makes me questions and do more research which is always a good thing even if it doesn't really chance my stance. There's always new info to look for! ^^
 
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Olimpia

New member
Just for the sake of putting facts on the table, what Solagratia500 is saying is in line with everything I've ever heard from vets (who are close friends) as well, and from what I know of physiology. D3 is a tricky dietary vitamin because it is fat soluble - it builds up in fatty tissue and lingers there. So when you provide an animal with too much dietary D3 it just builds and builds, until it is excessive in the body and starts interfering with calcium absorption and starts to mimic the symptoms of MBD. This is why with diurnal reptiles, animals that would normally bask in the sun, it is SO much better and safer to rely on a good strong UVB bulb and natural sun if you have the weather for it than to supplement as often with D3. The kind of vitamin D they produce in the skin is never going to overdose them.

Calcium by itself is not anywhere near as dangerous. You would really have to supplement excessively to see problems with too much calcium, and by excessively I mean way beyond what anyone would consider a lot. It is vastly more common for reptiles to have insufficient blood-calcium levels than excessive levels.

All that said, I don't see the need to keep calcium in the cage at all times so I personally don't. My geckos get plenty of calcium through diligent supplementation, feeder variety, and gutloading and if I feel that a female needs additional calcium for egg production she will get a couple feeders injected with liquid calcium glubionate, which is very easy to digest and metabolize.
 

JIMI

New member
Yes, I agree (of course not about the calcium ;-)). Do want to make this clear though. The link regarding leo poop was not in support of leaving calcium in the enclosure, it was just an example it just happened to be about calcium lol. I do not know if you can say that they have been "monitoring their own nutritional intake" because, if you think about it, they would consume anything that would prevent them from starving. Do leopard geckos really have the mental capacity to know how much of each nutrient they are deficient in? When they take licks from the dish do they know that they need say 0.06 g of calcium? They are very curious. They lick everything; they could just be licking what's in the dish out of curiosity. Do they really know that that "white powder" is calcium? These are at least my questions and my opinions. I always hear others saying the same thing; that leopard geckos can regulate the amount of nutrients they take in because it is instinctual. I haven't been successful finding many scientific studies on this subject (I've been so busy!), so please, if you have been successful share them with me because I would love to read them!

Breeders may recommend to use a dish of calcium, but aren't they just really making assumptions as well? One last thing: as Olimpia said calcium overdosage is unlikely, but it can happen. With the way that new keepers are dusting (everyone thinks more is better!) isn't safer to get rid of the dish and encourage proper gut loading, variety, and proper insect feeding?

Now it goes to say that we really just can't tell if we're giving them enough. But there are ways now. We have the option of having blood work done to measure the levels of certain nutrients in their blood and of taking radio-graphs to check bone density. If many people are having so much success with proper gut loading, providing variety, and proper feeding then why provide the extra calcium? I am a fan of keeping things as natural as possible, and providing calcium in a dish is not that natural :lol:

Okay, I couldn't just go on without saying something! That would have been bothering me all day long. Now I throw in the white flag! I may not have been able to convince you, but at least I got the last word;-)

I apologize for carrying this on so long Solagratia500 and monkeystyle But it goes to show we do all really share a passion and for these animals and that we want to do what is best for them. Even if we have differing opinions:)

Edit: I just read your edit Solagratia500. I completely agree and was also hoping that there were no harsh feelings! I also want to add that if someone has found recent scientific studies revealing that reptiles (leopard geckos in particular. They are not as smart as other reptiles.) in fact can regulate their nutrient intake then please show me! I am just stating what I have read. I am still just a newbie that began research a couple of years ago.

So I agree about that reptile carpet:biggrin:
 
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monkeystyle

New member
I thought I would post some photos of my other 20 gal. tank set-up. I left my leo, Siren, in the original tank I had and, since I really liked how it had multiple substrates, I set up another tank with a similar variation of substrates for my other leo,Valor.

Original Tank- Siren's
Siren home.jpg

New Tank- Valor's

Valor's House3.jpgValor's House.jpgValor's House4.jpg
Valor’s new tank has a moist hide on the right, dry hides in the middle and left, a climbing log, a couple of plastic plants, and one real succulent plant. The substrates include a small strip of reptile carpet, ceramic tile, and glass beads. The under tank heater is located under the ceramic tile and moist hide and keeps the moist hide and a very comfortable temperature.

Valor’s powder room is a clear plastic tray that sits in the corner over the reptile carpet. Once a week I just pick up the tray and dump it and if any waste misses the tray I just pick it off the reptile carpet and wash the carpet with hot soapy water. I have a similar set-up in the original set-up in Siren’s tank. The plastic tray works great and both geckos are quite faithful where they do their business. I am very grateful that geckos always go to the bathroom in the same place!

I feed my leos a combination of genuine phoenix worms, mealworms, and crickets. Both the mealworms and phoenix worms go into their feeding bowls located in the tank, but because of the multiple nooks and crannies crickets could hide I relocate both leos to a small 2 gal. tank to feed them their crickets. They are both hardy eaters and I have never had a problem with them eating outside of their normal tanks.

I believe both tanks provide safe and attractive homes for my leos as well as making beautiful habitats to display in my home.
 

JIMI

New member
I'm glad that Valor is enjoying her own space now!:)

Have you ever tried feeding them hornworms? They would love them! Pet Kingdom sells hornworms if you would rather purchase them locally.
 
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monkeystyle

New member
I'm glad that Valor is enjoying her own space now!:)

Have you ever tried feeding them hornworms? They would love them! Pet Kingdom sells hornworms if you would rather purchase them locally.

I was just there yesterday! I have not tried feeding them hornworms yet, but next time I'm at Animal Kingdom I will pick some up. Thanks for the suggestion! :)
 

JIMI

New member
Most of the time you have to pick out the smallest ones yourself. Depending on how many you get you wouldn't be bringing them along with the container and chow so you'd have to feed them off immediately. I believe they may also have roaches, but I'm not too sure. Their prices are not the greatest (you get a discount if you purchase their food club card), but it's great that they're nearby. I'm not such a great fan of the store though; their leos are in such poor condition:sad:.
 

monkeystyle

New member
I just wanted to show an updated photo of Valor and Siren's tanks. I've put both tanks side by side on some affordable shelving that I bought for about $50 that also has some nice storage spaces as well. Both geckos seem to enjoy their homes very much.

My live succulent plants did not do well in the tanks, but the geckos did not bother them while they were in there. I use all fake plants now and that seems to work aesthetically, as well as providing some comforting hiding spots. Having a warm, moist hide seems to provide enough humidity for my girls to have consistently easy sheds with no signs of dryness from our desert environment here in Las Vegas.

I am still pleased with the multiple substrate material used in both tanks. I notice that each gecko will spend time on both the pet carpet and tile and I think it provides an interesting and stimulating environment for them. They are both still very good at using the plastic trays I set up in the corners of their tanks to relieve themselves so tank clean-up is still easy. Valor tends to like to dig around in her moist hide so I sometimes have to clean up the dirt she kicks out and I have to remove the river rocks/decorative glass pebbles when do a major cleaning, but generally I have to say these are the cleanest pets I have ever owned!


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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Hi monkeystyle ~

You've got great looking enclosures!

Can't tell from the photos. Did you elevate each tank a bit to provide ventilation for your UTHs?
 

monkeystyle

New member
Hi Elizabeth,

Thank you!

They are both reptile tanks so even though it is hard to tell from the photos both tanks are built with elevated space at the bottom for the UTHs.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Hi Elizabeth,

Thank you!

They are both reptile tanks so even though it is hard to tell from the photos both tanks are built with elevated space at the bottom for the UTHs.

If those tanks are like the ones I've seen, even though the base/floor of the tank sits higher than the rim I understand that is extremely important to further elevate the entire tank (rim) above the stand (at the corners) in order to prevent heat build up under the tank.

Excessive heat from an UTH can damage a wooden stand and potentially cause a fire!

Some UTHs come with little sticky feet for that purpose. Otherwise you might use hockey pucks (one GU member does that) or even those ~3/8" sticky pads that are designed for chair legs to prevent scratching of wooden floors.
 
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monkeystyle

New member
Thanks for the advice! I'll look into elevating the tanks a little bit higher to eliminate any potential fire risks. It's hot enough in Vegas! :biggrin:
 
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