I believe my gecko is dying..

LostTogether

New member
So, just about a month ago, I took my gecko to the vet and he was diagnosed with gout. I have written down an almost day-by-day update to see if anything has changed, and here they are:

May 7th: So, I took my five year old male leo to the vet late this afternoon due to the fact I noticed some pretty bad swelling in his left back leg. Turns out he has arthritis and gout. Since there's nothing you can really do about either of them, all I can do at the moment is give him painkillers. I believe the gout has spread to his right front foot, since there is slight inflammation beginning to show up on it, though not as bad as the inflamed leg of his.

A few days ago, before I noticed how bad the swelling had gotten, his foot was barely inflamed at all. Just a little puffiness, but I thought it'd be gone within a week or so. Turns out it got much worse than I expected. Right now, the leg is really puffy and there is a red lump protruding from the starting of his foot.

He isn't as active as he was before in his tank. I noticed while he walked, he just about drags the gout leg, barely moving it at all. He can't really lift himself well, so he slightly drags his whole body along. I also noticed that all he does is sleep under his log most of the day, in the corner of the tank. There is a female sharing the tank with him and she always lays next to him to keep him company. I wonder, can she sense that he is sick?

I picked him up earlier and it seems that his belly feels a bit tender/squishy. Is that from a vitamin/calcium deficiency? I tried feeding him earlier and I sprinkled some calcium powder on his wax worms, but all he did was lick the worms. It makes me more nervous knowing that he has stopped eating also. Sticking the worm in front of him doesn't work either.

Since I noticed the inflammation, I've been soaking him for about 20 minutes each day in warm water, and putting triple antibiotic on his feet and legs. Is there anything else I can do to help keep him comfortable and still alive? I've been trying my hardest the past few days doing what I can.

Additional information:

· How long have you owned the animal? 4-5 years. He's 5 years and 3 months old.
· What is the enclosure size? To be honest, I can't remember the exact gallons it holds, but it's definitely enough room for both geckos.
· What type of substrate are you using (shavings, bark, paper towel, etc.)? At the moment, I am using paper towels for the time being over the carpet I typically use because I need to clean the tank soon, since there's dead worms and poop all over. I didn't want his leg to get more infected, so I placed the paper towels on top of all of it.
· What type of lighting are you using and at what distance(s) are they from the animal? (UVB and Basking) I use both a UVB, white basking light (75w), and a red basking light. I keep the UVB light on constantly since I have a little pile of calcium powder sitting in the tank. The white basking light I use during the day, and since the red basking light has a lower wattage, I use that during the night since it's more dimmer also.
· What are the temperatures within the enclosure and how are they being measured? I have to say it's around 80-90F. I used to have a stick on thermometer, but it didn't exactly work as I thought it would.
· What is the humidity within the enclosure and how is it being measured? I spray fresh water upon the log on the left side of the tank once a day. I have a water dish filled with fresh water in the middle of the tank.
· What are you feeding (or attempting to feed) the animal? Wax worms and sometimes crickets. They don't like anything else to be honest.

May 8th: Yesterday, I cleaned their tank. The male walked around the tank for at least 10-15 minutes before settling down under the log. He rattled his tail a bit, so I assumed he was hungry. I set a few wax worms in front of him with Zoomed calcium powder on them. Since he has trouble eating (can't catch worms quite well; doesn't open his mouth quite enough to fully get the worm in his mouth), I kept pushing the worms in front of his mouth, and he was able to eat two of the worms. I could tell he wanted to hunt them because he was looking at the worms with his hunting eyes. He also licked up some of the powder I had put next to his water dish.

Today: He's been sleeping all day from what I've noticed. He occasionally moves around his tank to sleep somewhere else. For the past couple hours, he's been sleeping in the middle of the tank, not under the log or rock I have in the tank. Earlier he did go under the rock, but less than 5 minutes later he left for the middle of the tank. I opened the tank to make sure he was okay, but it seems that his left eye can't open. He opened his right eye, though. In about an hour, I have it scheduled for a warm soak, and to give him his painkillers and to put some ointment on his feet.

5-16-14 update: Today I was in a rush to soak him since my sister had to go to an appointment soon after I got home from school. I had to come with her, so there was no way for me to possibly avoid going. I only got to soak him for about 5 minutes, then I did the usual: gave him his medicine and put ointment on his bad feet. I also fed him tonight and he ate 6 decent (but kinda small) wax worms. He had a real good appetite. I didn't have to poke him in his nose constantly for him to take it from me. It only took one or two times then he snatched it right out of my fingers. I've been noticing that for about a week or a little longer, there have been tiny poops around the tank, but it might be from the female since she doesn't really eat much. Even though the male has eaten a bunch this past week, it doesn't look like he's gained any weight at all. He still looks like he has a decent weight though. Also, his left eye is still closed. He opens it once in a while, but for the majority of the time, he keeps it shut, and I'm not sure why. He only opens it if he's trying to get out of my hands, or out of his soaking container. When he does open his eye, it looks a bit dull and darker than his right eye, and it's watery too. When I soak him, I tried to dab water on it to see if there was something in his eye that I could rinse out, but that wasn't the case because it didn't improve.

5-17-14 update: He pooped today, although it doesn't really look like a normal one to me. In the middle of the poop was an undigested looking wax worm, body and all. The brown of the poop looked porous, with tiny holes in it. And the white part of it looked very small. Just a tiny sliver. His left eye is still closed. What shocked me most was that I found two splotches of blood in the tank, right next to each other. They were there recently because I didn't see them there two hours earlier. Before I soaked him, I checked everywhere to see if he had any dried blood on him, but there wasn't any that I saw.

5-20-14 update: Two more splotches of blood on the other side of the tank. I still can't really find the source of it. The bump on his hind leg doesn't look red anymore, but a pinkish-white. I can see little red blood vessels(?) through the bump's skin. His right front foot hasn't really changed much, it's still its normal purple shade, even though his scales on that foot are spread out due to the inflammation. The most swollen toe on that foot has black crusty stuff on the middle of it. Two other toes by the nail are black and crusty also. I'm guessing it may be dried up blood. His left eye is still closed. The toes that have the gout in them on the right front foot are beginning to turn white. I dunno if that's a bad or good sign...

5-21-14 update: Today, he seems a bit worse. He's more in pain than usual. Every time I try putting ointment on his feet, no matter how lightly I touch him, he winces and flinches, shaking that food really bad. I'm starting to wonder, does his medicine really work? His left eye is still closed, but with a bit of research, I think I came up with a solution on how to fix it. I'll see if we can get some vitamin A stuff to see if that'll work on his eye.

5-22-14 update: The gout has gone into his left back thigh. You can tell that thigh is bigger than the other one, but inside it doesn't feel hard/firm. He's more sleepy and limp and im starting to worry about him even more. While I was soaking him, he slowly started to close his eyes and he fell asleep in the water. I feel like he's slowly dying on me... there has been no sign of improvement. Since the beginning. Another thing, while I was soaking him, he kept his nose completely under the water for a few seconds before I fetched him out so he wouldn't drown. He doesn't even try to run away when he's in mg hands like he usually would. He just sits/lays there in my hand. He always feels a bit limp and doesn't move much when I pick him up. And I did notice: his medicine is for pain, but it DOESN'T work. He's obviously in noticeable pain still. I'm guessing the end may be near.

5-26-14 update: He hasn't eaten in the past 2 or 3 feeding days. I'm really starting to worry about him. I've been left to just force feed him because he doesn't go after food, or is too slow to go after the worm, and doesn't put full effort into the bite. Every time he gets a worm into his mouth, he gets of halfway into his mouth, then spits it right back up. I don't know why he's doing this... I usually take him out of the cage to feed, but when I put him back into the cage, it looked like he wanted to hunt, but he didn't attempt to bite after one. I wiggled a tiny wax worm under his lower jaw and it took him a while before he ate that one. I had the calcium powder on all of the worms, and before it increased his appetite, but now it doesn't work. I know force feeding gives them stress, but its about the only way he'll eat..

5-29-14 update: Yesterday, I gave him Flukers liquid vitamin to see if it'll help him at all with anything. He's still mostly sleeping throughout the day in the corner of the tank, partially under the log. This morning, I noticed two poops in the tank next to each other. I knew one was from the male, and one was from the female. I guessed the one with no brown in it was the male's since he hasn't eaten almost all this week. The urates in it looks normal. But the odd part is, attached to the urates is a thin yellow wavy piece, with a green kinda paste on it.

6-5-14 update (Today): I gave him his medicine earlier and put some ointment on his eye that the vet gave me a while ago for a different gecko. Both his eyes are now closed, and have been for almost a week now. He barely opens either of them.
He hasn't eaten any worms in over a week now. He barely even licks up his medicine when I put it on his nose every afternoon. He won't even lick up the water I put on his nose either. He's starting to scrunch up his head more often, and squeeze his eyes tighter shut. He's lying flat in his cage now, and barely moves around. I can feel how empty his stomach is every time I pick him up. When I take him out of the cage in the afternoon, he always walks around a bit after I soak him, but that's about it. He usually just lays down after that. His eyes are more sunken in also. His tail looks only a bit thinner than it did a month ago. I have been taking a few pictures every now and then to see if I notice a difference at all.

Since he has gotten much worse since the beginning, it means he's dying, right? Please someone tell me what's going on. I got nothing about of the last site I posted in and waited for in the last month, and I don't want to wait for an answer any time sooner.. It's getting too late for waiting; I have no time for it. It's getting extremely urgent.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
A warm welcome to Geckos Unlimited.

LostTogether said:
I tried feeding him earlier and I sprinkled some calcium powder on his wax worms, but all he did was lick the worms. It makes me more nervous knowing that he has stopped eating also. Sticking the worm in front of him doesn't work either.

---Please get a digital thermomoeter with a probe today. Leos depend upon belly heat to digest their food. Not knowing the exact temperatires can lead to a leo's death!!

---What are you feeding them besides waxworms? Can you get some repti/calciworms for them and order some hornworms online?

---What did the vet suggest?

---Please share photos of both leos and their enclosure.

---Please read this care sheet for other suggestions on temperatures, vitamins, and all. There is much you can do to improve both leos' care.

1. ===> URGENT: No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium EVER <===

2. Best to buy stuff individually rather than getting a 10 gallon set up kit.

3. Quarantine Recommendations
Any new gecko should be quarantined for a minimum of 90 days prior to introducing her/him to the other geckos in the same cage. That gives adequate time to check for parasites, cryptosporidia, and the beginnings of coccidia plus. 3-6 months of quarantine are recommended if your new gecko is imported or wild caught.

The quarantine area should be in a separate room apart from your established geckos. Stringent sanitation methods MUST be followed!

4. Never keep 2 males together.

5. Best to keep leos alone. Even 2 females can fight. Leopard geckos do not need companions/"friends".

6. Advise NO particulate substrates (sand, cocopeat fiber, bark chips, et cetera). Risk of impaction simply not worth it. Best: textured ceramic, porcelain, or slate tiles. Paper towels also work. Add paper towel layers to poop spot to facilitate clean up.

7. A temperature gradient from warm to cool is very necessary for maintaining leo health. That is difficult to do within a 10 gallon enclosure. That's why many of us recommend a 30 inch long x 12 inch wide (deep) x 12 inch tall enclosure minimum. That's 76 cm x 31 cm x 31 cm.

Use a digital thermometer's probe to measure air temps and ground temperatures. Temperature guns are excellent for measuring surface temperatures. A stainless steel aquarium-type thermometer that has been verified can also be used.

Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the UTH on 24/7. Can turn off overhead heating at night unless the ambient room temperatures are particularly cool during the night.

8. The UTH + the overhead heating both belong on the warm end of the tank. Your leo will be more active if you provide an UTH for belly heat/digestion as well as an overhead dome. Your leo will benefit from a "warm zone", not just a "warm spot".

9. To better meet the crepuscular needs of leopard geckos, place a low wattage bulb (15 watt standard incandescent bulb) dimmed to half power inside a 5.5 inch diameter fixture in the center of the screen top and right next to the Ceramic Heat Emitting bulb.

Vary the on-time monthly of both the CHE and the photoperiod bulb according to this Pakistan link. For example, 11 hours ON in February is good.

Click: Sunrise Sunset Daylight Hours of Pakistan -- Timebie

10. UVB lighting is recommended for leopard geckos ONLY IF there is adequate space and opportunities for the leopard gecko to dodge some of the rays like in a 4.5 foot x 2 foot x 2 foot vivarium. A 48 inch long vivarium is a suggested minimum for using UVB for leopard geckos. Never use UVB lighting in addition to a powdered vitamin D3 supplement!

11. Strongly recommend a thermostat! A thermostat will control your under tank heater, provide your leopard gecko with stable and comfortable temperatures, save $ on electricity, and lessen the chance of a house fire from accidental overheating.

12. 3 hides required per leo: warm DRY, warm MOIST, cool DRY. Keeping one hide warm and moist 24/7 is very important! Both warm hides should sit on top of the UTH. The warmth from your UTH will help generate the required humidity. Leopard geckos use their warm moist hides for hydrating even when not shedding.

13. Too much vitamin D3 is as bad as too little vitamin D3. Any multivitamin (Rep-Cal's Herptivite, Exo Terra's multivitamin) which supplies vitamin A in the form of beta carotene is not recommended because research on chameleons has shown that it is not absorbed. A very, very small amount of preformed vitamin A acetate is necessary for eye and skin health. For a detailed explanation please note mod Hilde's posts #22 and #48 immediately following the Basic Guidelines of my Leopard Gecko Care Sheet.

Lightly dust crickets/dubia with Zoo Med's supplements like this:
1. Monday - Repti-Calcium with D3 according to gecko weight on container label
2. Thursday - Repti-Calcium with D3 according to gecko weight on container label
3. PLAIN Reptivite (multivitamin) with A acetate adjusted for your leo's weight: Spread out the lightly dusted Reptivite crickets over the course of a week. Use the Reptivite (multivitamin) very sparingly.

14. Urates should be white, not yellow, and be approximately 1/3 the size of the feces. A healthy feces is dark brown and about the size and shape of 2 tic tacs.

15. Vary the diet: crickets, roaches, grasshoppers, silkworms, hornworms, mealworm pupae, freshly molted mealworms, genuine Phoenix worms, calciworms, and locusts (smallest locusts possible)

16. There are no benefits to feeding waxworms, butterworms, or superworms (pure fat like ice cream). Hornworms and/or silkworms provide excellent variety. They provide nutrition as well as moisture.

17. Click: Care & Breeding of Feeders: crickets, Blaptica dubia, hornworms, & silkworms

18. Click: USDA Foods link Foods List

19. Diet, DIET, D-I-E-T! A huge factor in the husbandry of any gecko is to feed the feeders (crickets, worms, etc) a very healthy diet 24/7. Variety of feeders is important too. Nutritious feeder bodies transfer like nutrients to your geckos. Consider light supplemental dusting of these feeders as just "icing on the cake".

Remember that, like humans, geckos are what they eat.

20. Consider covering three sides of your leopard gecko's enclosure with something like construction paper to provide additional security and privacy.

EDIT: Use an under tank heat mat (UTH) that is 1/3 the length of the tank and as close to the width as possible. If you have a 20 gallon LONG: 30 x 12 x 12, you will need to size up to the UTH recommended for 30-40 gallon enclosures.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
LostTogether said:
Since he has gotten much worse since the beginning, it means he's dying, right? Please someone tell me what's going on. I got nothing about of the last site I posted in and waited for in the last month, and I don't want to wait for an answer any time sooner.. It's getting too late for waiting; I have no time for it. It's getting extremely urgent.

Your leo sounds like he is in very bad shape. :-(

I am also concerned about your female leopard gecko.
 

LostTogether

New member
Oh, the calcium powder that I've been giving them had D3 in it.. Is that not good for them? I never really understood what was wrong with that.
I tried giving them mealworms, but just like the waxworms, both the sick gecko and the female with him totally ignored them.

I'll send the pictures in the next post I make, if that's okay. I'm going to have to upload them from a 3DS camera because our phones have been disconnected for the past couple months. If I can upload the pictures soon enough, I'll try and edit this post with them.

The female is perfectly fine. And I'm saying that because I feel like he's getting closer and closer to death.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Oh, the calcium powder that I've been giving them had D3 in it.. Is that not good for them? I never really understood what was wrong with that.
I tried giving them mealworms, but just like the waxworms, both the sick gecko and the female with him totally ignored them.

I'll send the pictures in the next post I make, if that's okay. I'm going to have to upload them from a 3DS camera because our phones have been disconnected for the past couple months. If I can upload the pictures soon enough, I'll try and edit this post with them.

The female is perfectly fine. And I'm saying that because I feel like he's getting closer and closer to death.

You mention using UVB + calcium with D3. Usually it is just one or the other to prevent overdosage.

How long is their enclosure? Lots of hides?

Waxworms are an extremely poor food for leopard geckos...nearly pure fat! It would be like us eating ice cream all the time.

It may be too late for your male. It is super important that you change their diets.

Was it a reptile vet you saw? Seems like he/she would have helped you with their care more.

Can you get some repti-worms/calci-worms very soon from a pet store?
 

cricket4u

New member
Oh, the calcium powder that I've been giving them had D3 in it.. Is that not good for them? I never really understood what was wrong with that.
I tried giving them mealworms, but just like the waxworms, both the sick gecko and the female with him totally ignored them.

I'll send the pictures in the next post I make, if that's okay. I'm going to have to upload them from a 3DS camera because our phones have been disconnected for the past couple months. If I can upload the pictures soon enough, I'll try and edit this post with them.

The female is perfectly fine. And I'm saying that because I feel like he's getting closer and closer to death.

Hi,

I don't know if it's too late or not, however, take him to an experienced reptile vet asap to find out. If caught early there is hope and treatments available. First, he will need I.V. fluids administered and likely a CBC and serum biochemistry. There are drugs such as corticosteroids, colchicine, allopurionol, B complex, dietary management etc. The key is to get them to the vet the minute that you notice a problem. If you wait around, the prognosis is poor. Please take him in immediately and update us after.

Eyes sunken is an indication of severe dehydration. This leo is in danger and will not likely make it without proper hydration administered by a vet immediately. His body can not tolerate food in this state.

Best of luck
 
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LostTogether

New member
So is it alright if I have the D3 as long as I also have a UVB light?

I'm not sure the exact gallon size, but it's around 30 in x 12 in. There are two hides for them. A log and a rock. I have a water dish in between both filled with cool water every other day (when I feed them)

I mean.. I tried giving them hornworms before since my mom bought them a few years back to give it a try, but only two of my 4 or 5 geckos at the time actually ate them. I don't even think my sick male even ate any of them when they were available. And the pet store that we got them from isn't even there anymore and none of our local pet stores sells worms like that. Only mealworms/superworms/waxworms.

Yeah, she was a reptile vet. She told me and my mom that there's nothing much that we could really do for the gout. She said as long as he's moving around and eating, he should be fine. And if he stops doing both, it means he's probably too sick and needs to be put down. The medicine is to minimize pain, so he's not in pain constantly. The gout will stay there inside him, and once it spreads to his organs, he just about done for. Surgery is pointless. That's what she said.

And I don't know if our local pet store sells that. I can ask when I'm able to go there. But my male sick gecko won't even open his mouth. He barely even licks off the medicine on his nose. I'm not even sure how I'd be able to get a worm in his mouth and it scares me when he scrunches up his head because it reminds me of my first gecko that died who refused to eat. :(

Pictures are uploading.

cricket- he can't be dehydrated. I soak him every afternoon for 10 minutes and I syringe give him water right after I give him his medications. And I did take him in right after I noticed the swelling in his foot. That's what I was explaining about to the other person who posted.

Female gecko that's sharing the tank with him:
10ga0lx.jpg


The sick male gecko:
slsdgp.jpg


The gout: First picture is the left hind-leg, second picture is front right leg.
a47ud2.jpg

2h3tu6c.jpg


Their tank: 3/4ths of it is a soft kitchen towel, 1/4th of it are napkins since we ran out of paper towels.
v3m63r.jpg
 
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LostTogether

New member
Edit: Oh, I didn't know a moderator had to approve of it before I posted it. Oops :/ I sent it twice too. Welp, waiting game.
 
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LostTogether

New member
And of course, right when I typed it back up, my laptop shut out of the internet. How wonderful. If this message shows up twice, I'm deeply sorry.

Cricket- He can't be dehydrated because I soak him every afternoon for about 10 minutes and I syringe give him a bit more water in his mouth after he's swallowed his medications. His eyes aren't really sunken in, it just looks like he's really tired.

Elizabeth- As long as I have the UVB light on every day, the D3 shouldn't be a problem?

The tank is about 30 in x 12 in. There are two hides: a log and a rock. Between both of them is a water dish which I fill every time I feed them (once every other day).

As for the reptile vet, she said something along the lines of: As long as he's eating and moving around, he should be fine. If he stops eating and moving around, he's getting more and more sick and he's probably not going to last much longer. She said he had only a few weeks to a few months left to live and it's been a month now. She said surgery would be pointless since she's sure he might not fully recover if it was done and surgery couldn't possibly get rid of it all. And I think that's about it; well, all I can remember at least.

I'll ask my mom if she can take me to the pet store later to see what other worms they have besides mealworms, superworms, and waxworms. And while I'm there, I might as well get one of those digital thermometers also. Anything else I should get in case? Also, a few years ago, my mom bought 10 hornworms for the geckos and only a couple of the geckos out of the four or five I had at the time ate them, and I don't think the current sick male had any of them. I don't think he's willing to try anything else besides his wax worms that he's been eating for the past few years. And what should I do about feeding him? He barely will even finish his medicine, and I can't even force feed him wax worms. he hasn't eaten anything in over a week. Changing his diet isn't going to really help right now :/ I mean, it's worth a try, but I don't know how I'm going to get it into his mouth. Especially when I did manage to get a wax worm in his mouth a week ago, he spit it right back up. And I've been keeping him hydrated too, so I don't know what else could be the problem.

The female that shares the tank with him:
10ga0lx.jpg


The ill male gecko with her:
slsdgp.jpg


His gout: First picture is the left back leg; second picture is the right front leg
a47ud2.jpg

2h3tu6c.jpg
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
LostTogether said:
Elizabeth- As long as I have the UVB light on every day, the D3 shouldn't be a problem?

The tank is about 30 in x 12 in. There are two hides: a log and a rock. Between both of them is a water dish which I fill every time I feed them (once every other day).

As for the reptile vet, she said something along the lines of: As long as he's eating and moving around, he should be fine. If he stops eating and moving around, he's getting more and more sick and he's probably not going to last much longer. She said he had only a few weeks to a few months left to live and it's been a month now. She said surgery would be pointless since she's sure he might not fully recover if it was done and surgery couldn't possibly get rid of it all. And I think that's about it; well, all I can remember at least.

I'll ask my mom if she can take me to the pet store later to see what other worms they have besides mealworms, superworms, and waxworms. And while I'm there, I might as well get one of those digital thermometers also. Anything else I should get in case? Also, a few years ago, my mom bought 10 hornworms for the geckos and only a couple of the geckos out of the four or five I had at the time ate them, and I don't think the current sick male had any of them. I don't think he's willing to try anything else besides his wax worms that he's been eating for the past few years. And what should I do about feeding him? He barely will even finish his medicine, and I can't even force feed him wax worms. he hasn't eaten anything in over a week. Changing his diet isn't going to really help right now :/ I mean, it's worth a try, but I don't know how I'm going to get it into his mouth. Especially when I did manage to get a wax worm in his mouth a week ago, he spit it right back up. And I've been keeping him hydrated too, so I don't know what else could be the problem.

Hi LostTogether ~

Thank you very much for sharing these very clear photos of your leos and their vivarium. :)

Please ask your mom to read my post #2. It should clarify many things that need changing with your leos' current setup right away.

Please turn off the UVB light until we do further troubleshooting! Is it a strip fluorescent tube or a simple bulb? Brand, strength? Using UVB + powdered vitamin D3 is often a recipe for disaster. :-( Your leos do not have enough hiding places so far to dodge the rays when they feel like it.

A leopard gecko can get "addicted" to waxworms and then refuse to eat anything else.

Possibly this male vomited his last waxworms because the temperatures are too cool???

Need more hides.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Leopard geckos need 3 hides per gecko.

Here are some directions for a moist hide you can make today.

Homemade Humid Hide recommended by GU's Conched (Matt)
1. Use a ~4 inch x 4 inch x 4 inch container or a ~16 ounce butter container.
2. Cut an entry hole about 2 inches off the ground so the moss will stay inside better.
3. Add 2 inches of sphagnum moss to that hide.
4. Keep moss or paper towels damp 24/7.
5. Use the lid of the container as the ceiling.
6. Locate the moist hide on the warm end of the enclosure.
7. Warm moist hides 24/7 help leopard geckos stay hydrated so that they shed completely by themselves. Even when not shedding you will find your leo inside. That is very good news!

EDIT: Better directions for Matt's humid hide
 
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LostTogether

New member
There isn't much more room for anything else in the tank. (Is it okay if I start to refer to them by their actual names?). And about the temperatures, something made me a bit iffy last night. I'm not sure if the reason it was cool because there was a breeze coming in my from from the opened living room window, but the red night light is barely even warm. I tested the heat with the same length distance between my hand and the lamp and I could barely feel the heat on my hand. I have both day and night lights on now, in hopes of raising the temperatures a bit.
As for the spitting out of worms, I didn't mean that he threw them up, even though he did that once almost a month ago, I meant once he took the worm into his mouth, he refused to swallow it and spit it back onto my floor.

I would have made them a humid hide, but I can't find enough room in the tank. The log takes up most of the left side and the rock takes up most of the right. I can try and move the log against the side of the tank and try and fit the humid hide next to it if I can find a good sized box for them. I'm really not sure how to keep the hide humid though. Just use warm water to spray it? To be honest I'm really not sure how that stuff works. Its either too cold or the hide would be flooding with water.
 

budriley

New member
Each of your geckos need 3 hides, warm dry, warm moist and cool dry. I suguest removing the log and replacing it with 2 hides made of 4x4x4 plastic containers for moist hides against the side wall on the heated end of the tank, and 2 more 4x4x2 containers next to them (still on the heated side) for warm dry. The holes for the moist hides can be in the roof and the dry on the side facing the cool side. The moist hides will not get to cold if they are on the warm side. You will just need to spray a mist in the daily as needed. Under the tank heater for leos is a must have. Good luck with them.
 
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Yuk

New member
The moist hide is really important. If you need room, move the rock out. A simple deli cup, sour cream container, or cottage cheese container can make an excellent moist hide. Just fill it with moss and wet the moss, drain any excess water and assuming the hole is just large enough for the gecko to easily fit through, it should stay pretty moist for most of the week. The issues I've noticed are cups with extra holes or holes that are way too big letting out that moisture every day. It is very low maintenance. My geckos spend a lot of time in their moist hides and I can't imagine not having one. If you need more room, you can use a plant holder, cut a hole in the middle, and place the moist hide directly above the UTH. The warm - cool hide will surround the moist hide and there will be plenty of room and it also makes a great gradient of heat under a dark hide. I just set mine up this way because I wanted additional room.

tank_zps33da476a.jpg
 

LostTogether

New member
Okay, thanks guys. Ill have to go buy moss once I got to the pet store later.

And how bad does the male look/sound in your opinions? Is it really bad?

Elizabeth- Would you be able to make me a list of the things I need to buy at the petstore, please?

So far:
-1 or 2 more hides + a humid hide
-Moss (is there any brand that's best for them?)
 

JIMI

New member
I'm sorry about your poor leo:sad:

Here's some information about gout:
Gout in Reptiles: Causes, Signs, Diagnosis, Treatment, and Prevention

Did the vet go over your husbandry with you to try to determine the causes? Do you by chance feed your insects dog food or anything else very high in protein?

For hides just use plastic food containers or something of the like that you can find around your home rather than purchasing the expensive hides from the pet store. Instead of moss use very damp paper towels, but if you really want moss, sphagnum moss is best. Save your money right now to buy proper equipment such as a UTH(30-40 gallon UTH not the 20 gallon for your enclosure), proper supplements (get reptivite without D3), thermometers with probes to measure the air temps and floor temps, and a thermostat. These are necessities.
 

LostTogether

New member
Thank you for the list of things to buy. I wrote down a list that I can take with to the store.

She just listed the possible causes of gout and I'm guessing it may have been dehydration or just old age since it's arthritis also. And no, I don't gutload my gecko's food anymore. A couple years ago, I did give the meal worms the Flukers jelly-like food, but that was a while ago. I haven't fed them meal worms since then. Someone told me that wax worms aren't really high in protein, so I eliminated that. It couldn't have been from too much protein.
 

JIMI

New member
Your leo is still quite young; a properly cared for leo can live well into their twenties. I believe he has arthritis because crystallized uric acid is building up in the joints causing them to become enlarged, stiff, and painful.

I remember reading something concerning regarding those cubes in one of Cricket's posts. Here it is:
"These cubes contain brewer's yeast as one of the first ingredients if I remember correctly. Brewer's yeast is high in purines which can increase uric acid and cause gout."

Those orange cubes could have contributed to the gout. This is something that could have built up over a long period of time. Did she perform any tests such as a radiograph or did she just say it was gout? I think she should have asked you a lot of questions about your husbandry to determine this.

It is important that you feed your insects a good diet to ensure that your leo is receiving essential nutrients. Feed things like collard greens, turnip greens, and mustard greens along with other fruits on occasion. Make sure to switch it up. Do not feed dog food. Feed more crickets, hornworms, phoenix worms, and slkworms. The last three can be bought online.

Make sure to buy a thermometer with a built in hygrometer to measure the humidity. Did you only recently start giving your leos warm baths? Have they ever had access to a moist hide when they were in shed?

They have these thermometers at most pet stores: http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digital-Terrarium-Thermometer/dp/B000MD3MFA
 
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LostTogether

New member
I asked my mom and she said the Flukers insect food was before we got the male. It was when he had My original 3 geckos, all of which are dead now. It was before we got our Juvenile leo, which was 4-5 years ago. Usually I don't hear of geckos living past 10 years in captivity. My vet said she was even surprised that one of her coworkers had one that was 10 years old.

None of my geckos have had a moist hide before, but I just bought them moss and a thermometer, so I'll set that up soon. My Juvenile is still healthy. He hasn't had any health problems and we've had him for 4 years already. He eats everything we get him.

I'll probably be ordering Silkworms and Hornworms online as soon as my mom gets home.

As for the warm baths, I've been giving Porkchop (the male) daily soaks for a month now, ever since I really noticed the gout.

The reptile vet took him in the back of the building because he was starting to shed and she came back around a half an hour later with him and a book showing what gout was. And it is gout because on the bump on his left back foot, you can see the white through it.

Would I have to feed my wax worms fruits for now while I wait for the silkworms and hornworms to arrive?

Also, I couldn't get them an UTH, I didn't have another $40+ to spend.
 
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