Vertical Heat gradient

[Yuk]

Does anyone do a vertical heat gradient? I am considering adding more levels of hides to my tank, but as I do that, the lower levels will become less accessible for me to capture their temperature. I am thinking if the hides are well closed off, the heat will be shared better between them. I made a new dry hide which is off of the heat mat, but the warm hide next to it is radiating heat into it, which is effectively turning a "cool" hide into warm one (which is good lol). Another interesting point is that if a single hide has levels, the levels are gradially warmed because they are connected.

Is there anything additional I could do or any tips on gradually cooling the heat as the gecko moves up a hide, rather than a rapid 10 degree change as I change hides?

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

How about providing a link to your latest build, the one with posted temps everywhere?

Where is your UTH located? overhead heat too?

 

[Yuk]

Sure, I'll post a picture as it is now (it happens to have my desired temperatures in yellow as well). I am currently using a small UTH, but I want to get a bigger one (I'm going to upgrade it to a 30-40 gallon recommended one instead of the 20 gallon one I have now). I'm planning to replace it sometime this week. I own a ceramic bulb, but it is not currently being used. I'm not sure how much heat the UVB bulb puts out, but it can't be much. I never notice it. The dome is hot, of course, but I don't feel any radiation of heat from it. The plan was to use the ceramic bulb in the winter if needed. The UTH is located directly under the hides with a thin layer of soil under the glass. The excavator doesn't directly touch the glass and at the moment it is not even above the UTH at all (since they don't advise it), but when I upgrade, the plan is to keep that layer of soil between the excavator and the glass so that the heat can escape away from the excavator and not cause problems.

Right now, the burrow hide (the one in the front of the cage you can see in the second image) has a sharp gradient. The floor is in the 90's and the top is in the 70's. That on it's own isn't horrible. It's the middle I'd like to get to the 80's. I believe it is in the 70's and I'd like it to be mid 80's.

The plan is to add additional hides on top of the ones in the middle (not directly on top, but nearby, sitting on the hides below, allowing the openings to be open to fresh air).

Basically I'd like to utilize the vertical space and not let it go to waste. I don't know if it can be done, so that's why I ask

 

[acpart]

Consider getting heat cable instead of a heat mat because then you can tape the cable in whatever configuration you want (check out Zoomed heat cable).

Aliza

 

[Yuk]

Thanks Can heat cable go inside the tank? Would there be an issue if it were covered partly by substrate? If it goes inside the cage, would it have an issue with the tank top not fitting properly? (I don't know how thick it is).

Checking it out now.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Thanks Can heat cable go inside the tank? Would there be an issue if it were covered partly by substrate? If it goes inside the cage, would it have an issue with the tank top not fitting properly? (I don't know how thick it is).

Checking it out now.

Flexwatt Heat Tape is designed to be taped outside the enclosure.

You may have already found the Bean Farm's Flexwatt instructions on post #44 following my caresheet. I have no experience using it.

 

[acpart]

The heat cable is designed to go outside the enclosure as well.

Aliza

 

[Yuk]

Thanks both of you

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

I am currently using a small UTH, but I want to get a bigger one (I'm going to upgrade it to a 30-40 gallon recommended one instead of the 20 gallon one I have now). I'm planning to replace it sometime this week. I own a ceramic bulb, but it is not currently being used. I'm not sure how much heat the UVB bulb puts out, but it can't be much. I never notice it. The dome is hot, of course, but I don't feel any radiation of heat from it. The plan was to use the ceramic bulb in the winter if needed.

I am wondering about that 98*F reading? What type thermometers have you? Cool end temps to "roughly" 70 F will be fine.

Upgrading to a 30-40 gallon sized UTH will definitely help. The Bean Farm carries 11 x 11 (14 watt) Ultratherm heat mats independently and via Amazon that can be restuck without damaging the internal wiring of the stick-on UTHs.

What wattage is your CHE? Overhead heating could help with your gradient. Usually the heat from an UTH drops off pretty quickly the further you get from it.

Consider a screen top too. (I can't see one.) Once those little guys grow a bit, they could escape. :-(

 

[Yuk]

The 98 dregree reading was taken with a temp gun inside that bottom dry hide. They seem to really like the heat of it. I've seen the both sharing it after a big meal (I had no idea it had that much room).

Thanks for the advice on the bean farm one! I always like moving things around to get it just right, and it has been hard with my current one since I can't move it without destroying it.

I don't know what a CHE is, but the dome can handle up to 250 watts. My ceramic bulb was purchased to keep my chicks warm. With a dimmer set about 60% it was in the high 90's. The plan is to use it if needed during the winter with a thermostat connected so it keeps the same temperature every day. Thanks for the suggestion. That might be the best way to go...

Thanks, I do have a screen top. It was just off for pictures.

 

[Completeleopard]

Yuk,

A CHE is a Ceramic Heat Emitting Bulb!