Yellow urates...

Alana

New member
Hello all,
I got my leo on 7/23. He didn't eat much the first week, but has now ate 2 times (8-10 mealworms each feeding) I dusted one of the feedings with calcium w/D3. Yesterday morning he pooped for the first time. The dark portion looked normal, but his urate had a lot of yellow in it. And then this morning I saw that he had only passed urates (Also yellow); no poop with it. I know yellow urates are a sign of too many vitamins, but I haven't gave him any since I've had him. Could something else be causing this? Time for a fecal?

I'll try to post pictures in a little bit.
 

Alana

New member
Now that I looked closer at the urates he passed lastnight, theres something stringy next to it. Its hard to see in the photo. What the heck :(
 

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kvnsu

New member
A huge urate like that means an excess of water, the urate should be 1/3 the size of the poop. What are your temps and how well is he shedding? A fecal to the vet is your best bet. :)


Edit from Elizabeth's care sheet: My exotics vet recommends:

1. Place a piece of clean plastic where your leo usually poops. If your gecko poops somewhere else, take the poop to the vet anyway. Some poop is better than no poop! (Thanks to TheOneBlueGecko - 25 July 2011)

2. As soon as your gecko has passed some poop and urates, but without physically touching the sample, place the feces and urates directly onto a clean plastic bottle cap. (Vet has fecal sample containers if you can stop by first.)

3. Then place the bottle cap with fecal sample directly into a plastic ziploc bag. (Do NOT use paper towels or newspaper because those will absorb some of the feces necessary for a proper culture.)

4. Refrigerate this sample...unless you are taking the sample to your vet immediately. Do NOT freeze it.

5. Take this fecal sample to your vet within 24 hours of collecting...the sooner the better!


[There are two types of fecals: direct smear and fecal float tests. For geckos, ask the vet whether both tests should be run.]
 
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Alana

New member
A huge urate like that means too much water, the urate should be 1/3 the size of the poop. What are your temps and how well is he shedding? A fecal to the vet is your best bet. :)


Edit from Elizabeth's care sheet: My exotics vet recommends:

1. Place a piece of clean plastic where your leo usually poops. If your gecko poops somewhere else, take the poop to the vet anyway. Some poop is better than no poop! (Thanks to TheOneBlueGecko - 25 July 2011)

2. As soon as your gecko has passed some poop and urates, but without physically touching the sample, place the feces and urates directly onto a clean plastic bottle cap. (Vet has fecal sample containers if you can stop by first.)

3. Then place the bottle cap with fecal sample directly into a plastic ziploc bag. (Do NOT use paper towels or newspaper because those will absorb some of the feces necessary for a proper culture.)

4. Refrigerate this sample...unless you are taking the sample to your vet immediately. Do NOT freeze it.

5. Take this fecal sample to your vet within 24 hours of collecting...the sooner the better!


[There are two types of fecals: direct smear and fecal float tests. For geckos, ask the vet whether both tests should be run.]

Hm, thats interesting. The temps on the warm end stay between 89-92, the cold end is 70-72, and air temps on the hot end stay around 80 degrees. He hasn't shed yet, but looks like he might soon. I'll put plastic down and hope that he poops tonight.
 

Alana

New member
Hey Alana, I found a good website about feces from Elizabeth's care sheet again.

Heres the link-->Leopard Gecko Health and Problems

Thanks for that :) His poop actually looks similar to one of the photos, which just makes me worry more ha. I'm going to call the vets in my area. The problem is that there aren't many that are specialized in herps, and the one I know of is only in the office once a week :( wish me luck!
 

kvnsu

New member
Thanks for that :) His poop actually looks similar to one of the photos, which just makes me worry more ha. I'm going to call the vets in my area. The problem is that there aren't many that are specialized in herps, and the one I know of is only in the office once a week :( wish me luck!

I wish you the best of luck, I'm glad you caught it early and I'm sure he is fine since he is in good hands :)
 
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PowayRock

New member
Hello all,
I got my leo on 7/23. He didn't eat much the first week, but has now ate 2 times (8-10 mealworms each feeding) I dusted one of the feedings with calcium w/D3. Yesterday morning he pooped for the first time. The dark portion looked normal, but his urate had a lot of yellow in it. And then this morning I saw that he had only passed urates (Also yellow); no poop with it. I know yellow urates are a sign of too many vitamins, but I haven't gave him any since I've had him. Could something else be causing this? Time for a fecal?

I'll try to post pictures in a little bit.

Hi there. I have similar issues. I should be getting float results tommorow. My gecko too was getting yellow urates. With no dust vitamins ( I was in a trail for the week) and still getting yellow urates. He did find bacteria with the smear test and prescribed medicine. (since the medicine the female actully passed an orange urate, I am really hoping its the medicine because the females urates were white prior) I dont assume the vet I went to was gecko specialized, I would call it gecko friendly, he told me he does not worry to much about the color of the urate :scratchhead: . I was alarmed by that. I only gutloaded my crickets ( with mazuri as usual ) without dust because I was having irregularities with my male feces and urates. So I was monitoring the potties and cut all dust supplements off pending a vet visit. I am not feeling great about that vet for future visits but I will be getting results soon from the fecal culture. I will share on this thread. Im hoping that if you go to to a vet you will share what may be causing the yellow and what can be done. It seemed my vet totally minimized urate color and i would love a second opinion.
 
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Alana

New member
Hi there. I have similar issues. I should be getting float results tommorow. My gecko too was getting yellow urates. With no dust vitamins ( I was in a trail for the week) and still getting yellow urates. He did find bacteria with the smear test and prescribed medicine. (since the medicine the female actully passed an orange urate, I am really hoping its the medicine because the females urates were white prior) I dont assume the vet I went to was gecko specialized, I would call it gecko friendly, he told me he does not worry to much about the color of the urate :scratchhead: . I was alarmed by that. I only gutloaded my crickets ( with mazuri as usual ) without dust because I was having irregularities with my male feces and urates. So I was monitoring the potties and cut all dust supplements off pending a vet visit. I am not feeling great about that vet for future visits but I will be getting results soon from the fecal culture. I will share on this thread. Im hoping that if you go to to a vet you will share what may be causing the yellow and what can be done. It seemed my vet totally minimized urate color and i would love a second opinion.

Hello. Did you get your results yet? I also got a float test done, and they called me today and said it was positive for an intestinal parasite :( The receptionist didn't know what type. She said she would ask the vet and call me back, but i never received a call. I do have an appointment on monday, and I will call back tomorrow to see what exactly the fecal was positive for. Hope you're having better luck than I am!
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Hi Alana ~

Please update this thread after your vet appointment.

For the appointment: Bring a list of any supplements you use, the feeders, and what you feed your leo's feeders.
 

PowayRock

New member
Hello. Did you get your results yet? I also got a float test done, and they called me today and said it was positive for an intestinal parasite :( The receptionist didn't know what type. She said she would ask the vet and call me back, but i never received a call. I do have an appointment on monday, and I will call back tomorrow to see what exactly the fecal was positive for. Hope you're having better luck than I am!

Hi, I did get results back with no parasites. I have no experience or knowledge of parasites, they can be killed right. Im glad (givien its treatable) that you found your problem and can find a solution. As of last two days we have normal potties and urates.Given your found your problem and that it can be treated, I wouldnt call that bad luck. Your gecjkos obviously in good hands with you. I had bacteria and the madicine is down to one last treatment. Hopefully my normal potties/urates are a result of the bacteria being gone. Hope everything works out for you. I am trying to be positive and commend you for your excellent care and attention to your leo. I am only hoping I am not mispeaking on this as good news ( being you found the/a problem and are haveing it treated). I just dont know how serious or how hard they are to treat.

Another hypothesis of ours (GU members) is my reptivite causeing it. It gas been removed for last two week and now we have white urates. Removing reptivite was in relative do to high vitamin foods and gutloads I use. Havent got to the very bottom yet. MAy not be removing reptivite permanently, just trying to solve the yellow urates. Keep us posted, hope all goes well for you and your leo. :D
 

Alana

New member
I just got back from the vet. She didn't know what type of parasite he has because she only found eggs in the fecal sample. She said 5 or 6 of them. She gave me panacur saying that it will kill most things. I'm not sure what to think really, because I don't even know what type of eggs they are, and if it's even a threat to him. I don't have any experience with treating reptile parasites. I think I will try the med since it's a small dose (she did dose it according to his weight) and then take another sample back and see if it's still positive...what do you guys suggest?

I also brought a list of ingredients of his supplements and what I've been giving the feeders. She had no interest in looking at them, and said as long as I dust with calcium w/D3 he will be alright. She was concerned about me feeding him mealworms, and I agree, but I haven't gotten him to eat crickets yet. She said wax worms would be much better... :shock: I asked her what she thought about the yellow urates and she said that they are an "insignificant finding" and they may be from me feeding him meal worms, but didn't elaborate on that idea. She was in such a rush and was out the door before I knew it.

It's frustrating because this is pretty much the only vet in my area that will see reptiles.

So...what do you guys think? One good thing is that he weighs 59 grams, so he's put on some weight since I got him.
 
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Alana

New member
Oh and I also asked her about his urate being a bit large, and she had no explanation and said I shouldn't be concerned about it. So helpful ;-) So I guess this urate issue is still a mystery haha.
 

hmarie186

New member
I have hypothesized Edgars sudden development of yellow urates is from carrots being fed to the feeders vs sweet potato which I've always used and he's had white urates. I've switched the mealworms and dubia back on to sweet potatoes and I'll see what develops.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
I just got back from the vet. She didn't know what type of parasite he has because she only found eggs in the fecal sample. She said 5 or 6 of them. She gave me panacur saying that it will kill most things. I'm not sure what to think really, because I don't even know what type of eggs they are, and if it's even a threat to him. I don't have any experience with treating reptile parasites. I think I will try the med since it's a small dose (she did dose it according to his weight) and then take another sample back and see if it's still positive...what do you guys suggest?

I also brought a list of ingredients of his supplements and what I've been giving the feeders. She had no interest in looking at them, and said as long as I dust with calcium w/D3 he will be alright. She was concerned about me feeding him mealworms, and I agree, but I haven't gotten him to eat crickets yet. She said wax worms would be much better... :shock: I asked her what she thought about the yellow urates and she said that they are an "insignificant finding" and they may be from me feeding him meal worms, but didn't elaborate on that idea. She was in such a rush and was out the door before I knew it.

It's frustrating because this is pretty much the only vet in my area that will see reptiles.

So...what do you guys think? One good thing is that he weighs 59 grams, so he's put on some weight since I got him.

Oh and I also asked her about his urate being a bit large, and she had no explanation and said I shouldn't be concerned about it. So helpful ;-) So I guess this urate issue is still a mystery haha.

WOW about the vet recommending waxworms instead of mealworms! Seems like that's a red flag.

Treat the "egg parasites" with the Panacur as your vet recommends. Then be sure to follow up with a second fecal.

We are what we eat and so are geckos. It would have been good if your vet had been thorough and not in a big rush. :)
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
I have hypothesized Edgars sudden development of yellow urates is from carrots being fed to the feeders vs sweet potato which I've always used and he's had white urates. I've switched the mealworms and dubia back on to sweet potatoes and I'll see what develops.

I am awaiting news of the color of Edgar's urates once the feeders get back to the sweet potatoes.

Did you notice my vitamin A caution in another thread? Sweet potatoes contain huge amounts of vitamin A. Here's what Dr. Ivan Alfonso says just a few years back: Vitamin A in Chameleons: Friend or Foe?

Vitamin A in Chameleons: Friend or Foe?
by IVAN ALFONSO, DVM on JUNE 15, 2011


"Vitamin A has a long history in reptile medicine and unfortunately, most of that history isn’t good. It started mainly with turtles developing puffy eyes which was determined to be the result of Vitamin A deficiency. Supplementing with vitamin A became popular and almost every eye ailment in turtles and tortoises alike was attributed to Vitamin A deficiencies. Unfortunately it is a lot easier to overdose with vit A than underdose, and many turtles and tortoises (especially tortoises) developed severe issues due to the overdose. Since then, vitamin A became public enemy and many supplements switched to its precursor (beta- carotene) as the source for vitamin A. The reasoning being that you can’t overdose beta-carotene and reptiles, like mammals, would be able to manufacture Vitamin A from it. And so was the understanding for many, many years until reptile medicine advanced and research, true research, was done with vitamin A and its benefits.

Recently, and I say recently in relative terms, vitamin A has been discovered to play an important role in eye function, skin health and reproductive function in reptiles among other things. In chameleons, vitamin A plays an important role in keeping the overall health of the reptile and some species need it more than others. It has been my experience that species that are known to include vertebrate prey as part of their diet will need vitamin A in larger quantities than those who are strict insectivores. Panthers, Veileds, Mellers, Oustalets, Verrucosus and to some degree Parson’s all have shown some degree of vitamin A needs. Jackson’s, Mountain, Four-Horned, Giant Three-Horned and other montane species seem to benefit from vitamin A but at much lower levels.

So how much vitamin A is really needed? So far nobody knows for sure and that’s why it is better to not use too much and be safe. But, when used sporadically and responsibly, vitamin A is an invaluable ally in keeping chameleon health, especially in actively breeding females. I normally recommend using vitamin A in its palmitate form once every 14 days and only 1 little drop at that. On montane species, the dose can be every 21 days. For breeding females I like doing it every 10 days for lowland species and every 14 days for montane species. I use my own mix of vitamins that I make myself for my reptiles and have had great success, but any vitamin A palmitate should work just as good.

But what about the study that says vitamin A deficiencies are rare? There is such a study and it has been used as a rule in many places. However, the study failed to actually examine every lizard species. The study likely used Iguanas and maybe some carnivorous lizard such as Tegus or Monitors as the subjects. Herbivorous lizards are capable of deriving their vitamin A from precursors found in high carotene items such as carrots, sweet potatoes and squash among others. Carnivorous lizards can get all the vitamin A they need by ingesting the flesh of their prey, being that vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin and found in the fat and tissues of vertebrates. So yes, it is very easy to overdose vitamin A in herbivores and carnivores, but what about insectivores? Where is the study on them? A small study was done many years ago where Panther chameleons would show a dramatic health improvement when provided with pre-formed vitamin A. Why would that be? Think about it…..chameleons and all insectivores depend solely on their insect prey to pass along all their nutrition. In captivity, our feeder insects never get the same nutrition they would in the wild therefore providing less than optimal vitamin levels to our chameleons.

Add to this an even more recent study where it has been proven that reptiles in general do not metabolize beta-carotene into vitamin A, they actually use different precursors for this. We immediately find ourselves depriving our chameleons entirely of vitamin A and then thinking that’s ok because too much vitamin A is bad. Extremes are bad, we need to aim for the balance, the middle of the road, and it is hard to do when you don’t know just how much to give.

My advice is to not neglect vitamin A in your chameleon’s diet regardless of the species. They need it but maybe in very small amounts. If you use vitamin supplements that contain the active form of vitamin A or pre-formed vitamin A, then use them sporadically as stated above. If you use the liquid form of vitamin A, be careful and use also very sporadically. Aim for very little exposure to the vitamin but some exposure none thle ess. I have managed to treat many chameleons, mainly panthers, with chronic health problems with a protocol of vitamin A dosing. Not every chameleon issue is due to vitamin A problems and with proper nutrition and supplementation, vitamin A issues should be rare, but don’t think that vitamin A isn’t necessary because you will be running into issues sooner or later."
 
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Alana

New member
Yeah the wax worm thing scared me a bit. But I gave him his first dose last night and it went well...he actually didn't seem to mind it.

I'll be interested to hear if the carrots are the cause of the yellow urates! Thanks for the replies everyone :)
 

hmarie186

New member
Regarding vitamin A:

Carrots contain 16706 IU/100g whereas sweet potatoes contain 14187 IU/100g. What I have read is that excess carotenoids can discolor urine in people to a darker yellow and even orange. I am suspecting that's what it is. However, if they are being excreted in urates, does that mean it is not converted to a usable form of vitamin a by the feeder? Thank you for providing the study Elizabeth :) I will let you know what I find out!
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Regarding vitamin A:

Carrots contain 16706 IU/100g whereas sweet potatoes contain 14187 IU/100g. What I have read is that excess carotenoids can discolor urine in people to a darker yellow and even orange. I am suspecting that's what it is. However, if they are being excreted in urates, does that mean it is not converted to a usable form of vitamin a by the feeder? Thank you for providing the study Elizabeth :) I will let you know what I find out!

Thank you for sharing that carrots contain even more carotenoids than sweet potatoes do.

Let us know what you discover.
 

JocelynC26

New member
Screen Shot 2020-01-03 at 1.30.28 AM.jpg Screen Shot 2020-01-03 at 1.41.23 AM.jpg

This was my leopard geckos poop and uric acid today at around 1:30 am. I'm thinking that she might be dehydrated and its because her crickets haven't been getting enough water therefore affecting her. Any ideas why she has this big odd looking urate and then this other one with white and yellow small one? Also there seems to be some mucous on her poop. She just began shedding on the 31st and was completely done the following day. Let me know your opinions.
 
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