My gecko threw up?

[swanguin]

So on Tuesday night, I fed my gecko 6-8 mealworms (don't remember how many but quite a lot) on Wednesday night he was, ok just a little bit inactive. But this morning I went to check my geckos and I noticed there was something like a poop but they were mealworms half digested and another ball like thing which seems to be shed skin. Nothing has changed in the husbandry. He was eating perfectly fine earlier this week, the crickets I gave him were perfectly digested and last week, both mealworms and crickets were digested.
Could it be because he are too much and then after eating the skin it was too much for his stomach to handle?
Do you need pictures of what he threw up?

General Information
Species of lizard: leopard gecko
Gecko's name:Aggro
Morph: bell albino? ( I'm not sure)
Gender: I think he's male
Age: will be one year in late October
Weight: not sure, he's not underweight
Total length: 8inches
Length of your reptile when you first acquired it: around 4 inches
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner): rescue from pet store. The woman didn't know how to take care of him and just gave it to me.
Captive bred or wild caught: captive bred

Vivarium
Cage (type, size): glass 20 gallons
Substrate provided: paper towels
Types of hiding places provided: dry warm, moist warm, dry cold
Is there a humidity hide? location? Yes, next to the warm dry hide
Please describe any other furnishings: a water dish
List recent changes in the environment, if any: nope

Lighting
He can't stand light like a vampire. He gets indirect sunlight.

Heating
What is the ground temperature right on the substrate under the warm dry hide: 91F
What is the air temperature on the warm end about 4 inches up from the ground: (83F he likes it warm)
What is the air temperature on the cool end about 4 inches up from the ground: 73F
What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature (Under Tank Heater, heat light, ceramic heat emitter, Flexwatt heat tape, hot rock, other): uth, and I use a heather inside my room on cold days to keep my room around 72-75F
Ventilation space for your UTH by elevating the tank above the shelf (some UTHs come with sticky feet for the tank corners):yep
Are you using a thermostat(s)?yeah
Which hide does she/he spend most of her time? During day, warm dry hide. Night he lays outside on the warm end or occasionally cold.
Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much? By 1-2 degrees

Humidity
Is the humidity measured? Yeah
Humidity range: 40-45

Diet
Insects and worms, list type: crickets and mealworms
Regular diet fed to the insects and worms: fruits and veggies
Are the insects and worms formally “gutloaded” 1-2 days prior to feeding off to your gecko? If so with? Green veggies
How often do you feed your gecko? 5 crickets each time, 3 times a week. And some mealies other days.
What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both? The multivitamins has d3 so without
Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without? I don't have a calcium in the tank
Multivitamins (include brand name)? Repashy vitamin supplements, I lightly dust 5 crickets a week
Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet: no change

General Health
If your gecko is sick, please describe the signs and how long your gecko has been showing these signs: he seems healthy
Is your gecko’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased? Last night he seemed less active (maybe because he shed)
Is your gecko’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased? It's normal
Have you noticed any of the following?
Weight (loss or gain): no
Discharge from the eyes or nose: nope
Increased breathing rate or effort: nope
Change in the droppings: droppings as in poo? Everything was fine till he threw up
Urates
---white or yellowish: white
---size of urates as compared to size of feces:the normal size
Abnormal skin color or shedding: I didn't see him shed, but there isn't any skin left on him so that's a good sign?
Parasites on the skin or in the feces: not that I can see
Weakness: just light, as usual

Previous problems and/or illnesses: earlier this year he randomly stopped eating but it was fixed by removing the legs of the crickets. Then, he stopped pooping for a few days due low humidity but that was fixed.

Other Critters in Same Cage or in Household
List other animals that are kept in the same cage: nope
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months): nope
Are any of your other pets ill? My other gecko is wonderfully fine

Thanks for your time guys

 

[kvnsu]

Seems your husbandry is fine.. Probably just ate too much. I would just cut back how much you feed him and see how it goes.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Hello ~

Will check in soon with a link to some Cricket Guidelines. It is important that your crickets and mealworms get some type of dry diet too...not only fruits and veggies. Some veggies are better than others. Collard greens are quite good! Prickly pear cactus is good.

I use Albers All Purpose Poultry Feed as my dry diet for crickets and dubia. Click: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...-feeding-issues/68574-cricket-guidelines.html

 

[swanguin]

Guys he seems lethargic and didn't eat the mealworm I left in his food dish. Should I wait a bit more or call the vet?

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Guys he seems lethargic and didn't eat the mealworm I left in his food dish. Should I wait a bit more or call the vet?

Heating
Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage?
What type and brand of thermometer (digital with probe, temperature gun, LCD strip, analog (circle), combo digital thermometer/hygrometer, stainless steel aquarium type, other):

We are missing the answers to some critical questions on the Health Questionnaire. Please reply to the above. Knowing precisely your leo's enclosure temps is a must. Either a good digital thermometer with probe and/or a temp gun is necessary to verify your thermostat's readouts.

I tape the probe of my digital thermometer to my Hydrofarm thermostat's probe and leave both under the warm dry hide 24/7.

Could be that the heating is off some???

Adding an overhead dome fixture containing a Ceramic Heat Emitting bulb will provide a warm zone for your leo, not only a warm spot (UTH only).


1. Pictures of your leo Aggro and his set up, please?

2. What size is your UTH in relation to the tank's bottom? Autumn is here in the USA. When did you last check the temps?

3. Even though you only dust 5 crickets per week, are you lightly dusting those crickets?

4. Have you a vet in mind who is experienced with leopard geckos?

5. Click for sexing pictures: http://www.reptilecare.com/leopardgender.htm

 

[swanguin]

I have a digital with probe and a temperature gun.

The uth is a little under half of the tank. I've been checking the temps and they haven't changed at all. Only from 23.6 to 23.2 C

Yeah I dust them very lightly, I've read how harmful it can be to them to over do it so I'm very careful with that.

Luckily my parents are friends with the vet that is in care of the reptiles from the zoo I'll message him tonight

I feel like I shouldn't bother him right now, but I remember when I checked to see if he was impacted and he resembles more the picture on the right. I'm not entirely sure though.

He seems very tired, which is unusual cause he's usually very active and curious.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

^^ Sounds good. Lucky for you guys to have zoo vet connections! Let us know what the vet thinks.

No hemipenile bulges right below the vent? If leo Aggro resembles the picture on the right, then probably you've got a lady leo. :biggrin: How about a picture when she wakes up?

Just so nothing is missing in the "translation" to *C:

Recommended temperatures for all leos regardless of size
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the UTH on 24/7. Turn off the overhead lighting/heating at night (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures are particularly cool during the night.

Lighting
He can't stand light like a vampire. He gets indirect sunlight.

:lol:

Have you read up on bell albinos?

 

[swanguin]

Im positive he's a male

When I got him, I looked up it it was normal for him to be so sensible to light and I only found a forum where some owners seemed to have similar issues with bell albinos. He immediately closes his eyes when exposed to light and his sight gets really bad. He can't hunt with the light on. I also read that the issue would be fixed when he becomes an adult, but he's close to being one and he's still the same.

He's still very lethargic and tired. He pooped last night, it looks normal, just smaller than usual and the urate is white but very small.
I think he threw up half of his food when he threw up his skin because he was able to digest some of the mealworms. What could possibly make a gecko throw up his skin?

Thanks a lot for your time and help
I will post a picture of his enclosure when I get access to a laptop

 

[swanguin]

Hey this might be a silly question, but is it possible that his odd behavior is caused by season changes? I've noticed that whenever he stops eating, and goes into something like hibernation, it's when raining season starts. My sister is allergic to season change so maybe he's sensible to it?
I'll try giving him some crickets tonight. Sometimes he decides to stop eating mealies and only eats crickets.

 

[swanguin]

Guys Aggro pooped again. At first it seemed normal, but when i looked closer, there was this weird greenish thing next to the urate.
He only seems to move to poop and drink water. Im very worried

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Im positive he's a male

When I got him, I looked up it it was normal for him to be so sensible to light and I only found a forum where some owners seemed to have similar issues with bell albinos. He immediately closes his eyes when exposed to light and his sight gets really bad. He can't hunt with the light on. I also read that the issue would be fixed when he becomes an adult, but he's close to being one and he's still the same.

He's still very lethargic and tired. He pooped last night, it looks normal, just smaller than usual and the urate is white but very small.

In your pictures the urate does not look pure white. Is the off white color due to lighting?

I think he threw up half of his food when he threw up his skin because he was able to digest some of the mealworms. What could possibly make a gecko throw up his skin?

I think he ate too much in addition to his skin the night he threw up.

Thanks a lot for your time and help
I will post a picture of his enclosure when I get access to a laptop

You are welcome. Hope that we can get to the bottom of these issues.

Hey this might be a silly question, but is it possible that his odd behavior is caused by season changes? I've noticed that whenever he stops eating, and goes into something like hibernation, it's when raining season starts. My sister is allergic to season change so maybe he's sensible to it?
I'll try giving him some crickets tonight. Sometimes he decides to stop eating mealies and only eats crickets.

I'm not sure whether your leo is sensitive to seasonal changes, whether seasonal changes account for his lethargic behavior. Keep the temps normal in his enclosure. Were the room temperatures where his enclosure sits warmer during the summer?

Guys Aggro pooped again. At first it seemed normal, but when i looked closer, there was this weird greenish thing next to the urate.View attachment 32574View attachment 32575View attachment 32576
He only seems to move to poop and drink water. Im very worried

I would definitely make an appointment with a vet experienced with leopard geckos. Share your poop photos with him/her right now.

That's the best way to help Aggro.

Next time Aggro poops, collect the sample. Here's how:


#2---Fecal Sample Collection Procedure
My exotics vet recommends:

1. Place a piece of clean plastic where your leo usually poops. If your gecko poops somewhere else, take the poop to the vet anyway. Some poop is better than no poop! (Thanks to TheOneBlueGecko - 25 July 2011)

2. As soon as your gecko has passed some poop and urates, but without physically touching the sample, place the feces and urates directly onto a clean plastic bottle cap. (Vet has fecal sample containers if you can stop by first.)

3. Then place the bottle cap with fecal sample directly into a plastic ziploc bag. (Do NOT use paper towels or newspaper because those will absorb some of the feces necessary for a proper culture.)

4. Refrigerate this sample...unless you are taking the sample to your vet immediately. Do NOT freeze it.

5. Take this fecal sample to your vet within 24 hours of collecting...the sooner the better!


[There are two types of fecals: direct smear and fecal float tests. For geckos, ask the vet whether both tests should be run.]

 

[swanguin]

Yep, the light in my room is very warm, and the camera of my phone makes it look warmer

Yeah the size of the skin, plus the mealworms was huge.

The temps didn't change inside my room, but during summer, there was more sunlight and now it's very cloudy and rainy during the day.

After he popped last night, I followed those instructions right away, and I will take the sample this afternoon.

He still poops and drinks water so that's a good sign right?

Thanks

 

[swanguin]

I took him after typing that reply. The vet said he looked really good and healthy. Aggro pooped on the vet's table, providing a better sample to be examined. The vet found out Aggro has a protozoic? infection however, the regurgitation was probably caused by eating too much. He gave Aggro some oral medicine and I'll have to take him again next week for another dose of medicine. I'm going to take my other gecko to be examined. They don't share anything, but I want to make sure he doesn't have the parasites. The vet said he would be inactive for a few more days but that he'll be alright

Thank you again for your time

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

I took him after typing that reply. The vet said he looked really good and healthy. Aggro pooped on the vet's table, providing a better sample to be examined. The vet found out Aggro has a protozoic? infection however, the regurgitation was probably caused by eating too much. He gave Aggro some oral medicine and I'll have to take him again next week for another dose of medicine. I'm going to take my other gecko to be examined. They don't share anything, but I want to make sure he doesn't have the parasites. The vet said he would be inactive for a few more days but that he'll be alright

Thank you again for your time

I'm happy that Aggro was seen and that he's being treated for the protozoa.

Be sure to wash your hands well between geckos, because parasites are contagious. Handle Aggro last just to be on the safe side.

Nice to hear that Aggro is healthy and that soon he'll be all better.