Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
My picture is taken from your link. It's the 10 inch Repta clamp lamp you should get.
`Do I have a correct list of what my leopard gecko will need?
- Thread starter logan1234
- Start date
My picture is taken from your link. It's the 10 inch Repta clamp lamp you should get.
My dad ordered the flukers 10 inch dome and the second hydrofarm and hes gonna see if there is a CHE like the one you listed at the pet shop.
We set up the tank, and the hydrofarm was set to 90. Once fully heated up it went down to about 86.1 then was starting to go back up again. Is that the temperature I should be getting for inside the warm end dry hide?
Also I will post the colder end hide temperature later, and the warm moist hide inside temperatures.
I'll also see what the temperatures are 4 inches up for the cold and warm end when I get the CHE.
EDIT: It seems like the yellow zoo med thermometer with a white probe updates more quickly and is more accurate maybe. It says 87.__ and the hydrofarm was still lower at 84.__
We set up the tank, and the hydrofarm was set to 90. Once fully heated up it went down to about 86.1 then was starting to go back up again. Is that the temperature I should be getting for inside the warm end dry hide?
Also I will post the colder end hide temperature later, and the warm moist hide inside temperatures.
I'll also see what the temperatures are 4 inches up for the cold and warm end when I get the CHE.
EDIT: It seems like the yellow zoo med thermometer with a white probe updates more quickly and is more accurate maybe. It says 87.__ and the hydrofarm was still lower at 84.__
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I remeasured the temperatures and I gave them time to update since they're kinda slow.
Warm dry: 91.5 with zoomed yellow thermometer / 89.0 hydrofarm
warm moist (no moss in it): 88.8 with zoomed
colder end hide: 78.6
Like I said in the post above, I have not yet got a CHE so i'm not going to measure air temperatures yet.
Warm dry: 91.5 with zoomed yellow thermometer / 89.0 hydrofarm
warm moist (no moss in it): 88.8 with zoomed
colder end hide: 78.6
Like I said in the post above, I have not yet got a CHE so i'm not going to measure air temperatures yet.
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
This sounds excellent! :yahoo:
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
All this will be much easier once you get your leo. From what you have mentioned, you're getting the leo in the spring after you move.
The thermostat can vary +/- 3*F. If you set it for 91*F, it could drop to 88*F before turning back on.
It's important to verify the thermostat's temperature with the Zoo Med digital. Just tape the digital's probe to the thermostat's probe and leave both probes under the warm dry hide 24/7.
Checking the temps depends upon you. Daily? at each feeding?
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Ya know, if you set it up at your dad's house and that does not work, you can always move it to your mom's.
Do you have a tough screen top? Can you link it?
I got the thermostat and lamp today. The CHE was not at the pet shop so we ordered it today and should be here around the 24 to 27th I think. And the thermostat I got was jumpstart which is a type of hydrofarm and looks the same and my other one just says hydrofarm. They look the same besides the title and both go up to 1000 watts. I read it is the same thing but a different name, is that true?
Also the the thermostats temperature is 3 temperatures off of the zoo med when there duct taped together. Is that normal? They are sometimes closer together but sometimes around 3 degrees off.
Also the the thermostats temperature is 3 temperatures off of the zoo med when there duct taped together. Is that normal? They are sometimes closer together but sometimes around 3 degrees off.
Also, don't forget about the post above, but
Is this the area of temperatures I should be trying to get?
Warm dry hide/warm moist hide: 88-92F
Colder end hide: No lower then 68F
Air temperature on warm end(4 inches up): No greater than 85F
Set hydrofarm for CHE to 80
Air temperature on cool end(4 inches up): No greater than75F
Is this the area of temperatures I should be trying to get?
Warm dry hide/warm moist hide: 88-92F
Colder end hide: No lower then 68F
Air temperature on warm end(4 inches up): No greater than 85F
Set hydrofarm for CHE to 80
Air temperature on cool end(4 inches up): No greater than75F
JessJohnson87
New member
Sometimes it can be 3 degrees off, so I would set it 3 degrees higher than the desired temperature. Mine is like a degree or 2 off from the thermometer. And yes the above temps sound good.
Zux
New member
Hi Logan,
Those temperatures sound spot on.
Regarding the temperature difference between the thermostat and thermometer, that is totally normal and is the main reason that thermometers are required as the thermostat dials can almost never be relied upon.
General Rule - Trust your thermometers and adjust the thermostat according to those.
PS: Jess is a fast human.
Those temperatures sound spot on.
Regarding the temperature difference between the thermostat and thermometer, that is totally normal and is the main reason that thermometers are required as the thermostat dials can almost never be relied upon.
General Rule - Trust your thermometers and adjust the thermostat according to those.
PS: Jess is a fast human.
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
As far as I know, all Hydrofarm MTPRTCs are the same.
I'd set the UTH Hydrofarm for 91*F. Then it will drop to 88*F before turning back on.
I'd set the UTH Hydrofarm for 91*F. Then it will drop to 88*F before turning back on.
Okay a couple more questions, sorry.
How big should the tote be for the crickets?
How many crickets do you recommend buying a month? My dad said that we may not need to buy 500 since it will be too much. So say the leopard gecko eats 15 crickets per serving (Is that accurate?) then 3 times a week 15X3=45 every week so 180. So Should I only buy 250 every month?
How long after I buy 1/2" crickets will they die?
Including the shipping of the crickets would it be cheaper to buy 250/500 crickets online or at a pet store?
Also do you mean for the thermostat to go by the thermometer like if the thermometer 3 degrees higher then the thermostat, then set the thermostat 3 degrees lower?
P.S. My brother and maybe mom is going to possibly give me some egg flats from their work. If I ever need to buy more any suggestions where?
How big should the tote be for the crickets?
How many crickets do you recommend buying a month? My dad said that we may not need to buy 500 since it will be too much. So say the leopard gecko eats 15 crickets per serving (Is that accurate?) then 3 times a week 15X3=45 every week so 180. So Should I only buy 250 every month?
How long after I buy 1/2" crickets will they die?
Including the shipping of the crickets would it be cheaper to buy 250/500 crickets online or at a pet store?
Also do you mean for the thermostat to go by the thermometer like if the thermometer 3 degrees higher then the thermostat, then set the thermostat 3 degrees lower?
P.S. My brother and maybe mom is going to possibly give me some egg flats from their work. If I ever need to buy more any suggestions where?
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amsdadtodd
New member
15 crickets per day is a LOT for one leo. Juveniles will eat every day, two to five usually. Adults will slow down to about three times a week, and usually less than 5 per serving. That's presuming crickets are the only feeder, which I hope you know is not appropriate. For me, I use crickets and turkestan roaches alternately, and some of my leo's need mealworms or hornworms, since they are slower and easier to catch.
Todd
Todd
Oh, I thought you only needed to use crickets. I'll need to look into of how to care for mealworms. (I'm not looking into breeding crickets/mealworms.) Do you just put mealworms in a feeding bowl and feed crickets 3 times a week. Or do you just feed like how many crickets they will eat in 15 minutes once a week and how many mealworms they will eat in 15 minutes twice a week. I had a feeding schedule and I'll post it again, but if I have to add mealworms can you help me with that?
My feeding/supplementing schedule I had:
Week 1:
Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Thursday- no dusting
Saturday- no dusting
Week 2:
Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Thursday- plain (No D3) Reptivite
Saturday- no dusting
Week 3:
Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Thursday- no dusting
Saturday- no dusting
Week 4:
Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Thursday- plain (No D3) Reptivite
Saturday- no dusting
My feeding/supplementing schedule I had:
Week 1:
Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Thursday- no dusting
Saturday- no dusting
Week 2:
Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Thursday- plain (No D3) Reptivite
Saturday- no dusting
Week 3:
Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Thursday- no dusting
Saturday- no dusting
Week 4:
Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Thursday- plain (No D3) Reptivite
Saturday- no dusting
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JessJohnson87
New member
I feed roaches twice a week and mealworms once.
Or
Roaches and a hornworm one feeding, mealworms the next feeding and maybe crickets or just roaches he next feeding.
It's honestly in the preference of how much they will eat until they're full, I put the roaches and crickets in one at a time so I don't have to chase down a bunch that he doesn't eat. I put mealworms in an escape proof dish and leave in there until he's done. I usually just feed one hornworm so I place it on the floor of the tank.
The max mine will eat crickets wise is about 5-8. Roaches is 3 and sometimes the mealworms are small so he will eat about 10 of those.
Or
Roaches and a hornworm one feeding, mealworms the next feeding and maybe crickets or just roaches he next feeding.
It's honestly in the preference of how much they will eat until they're full, I put the roaches and crickets in one at a time so I don't have to chase down a bunch that he doesn't eat. I put mealworms in an escape proof dish and leave in there until he's done. I usually just feed one hornworm so I place it on the floor of the tank.
The max mine will eat crickets wise is about 5-8. Roaches is 3 and sometimes the mealworms are small so he will eat about 10 of those.
Is this a good schedule?
Feed them how many crickets they will eat in 15 minutes/how many mealworms they will eat in 15 minutes.
Week 1:
Crickets>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets>Thursday- no dusting
Mealworms>Saturday- no dusting
Week 2:
Crickets>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets>Thursday- plain (No D3) Reptivite
Mealworms>Saturday- no dusting
Week 3:
Crickets>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets>Thursday- no dusting
Mealworms>Saturday- no dusting
Week 4:
Crickets>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
crickets>Thursday- plain (No D3) Reptivite
mealworms>Saturday- no dusting
P.S. I thought you were only needed to feed them crickets, thanks for telling me.
EDIT: Also I can't find any mealworm care sheets, so any help?
Feed them how many crickets they will eat in 15 minutes/how many mealworms they will eat in 15 minutes.
Week 1:
Crickets>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets>Thursday- no dusting
Mealworms>Saturday- no dusting
Week 2:
Crickets>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets>Thursday- plain (No D3) Reptivite
Mealworms>Saturday- no dusting
Week 3:
Crickets>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets>Thursday- no dusting
Mealworms>Saturday- no dusting
Week 4:
Crickets>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
crickets>Thursday- plain (No D3) Reptivite
mealworms>Saturday- no dusting
P.S. I thought you were only needed to feed them crickets, thanks for telling me.
EDIT: Also I can't find any mealworm care sheets, so any help?
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Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Your schedule is very good!
We talked about mealworms on post 150. There you'll find a GU mealworm caresheet I linked: Mealworm Breeding. I have not mentioned the benefits of feeding your leo variety yet.
Mealworms contain more fat than crickets do. I like to increase the more nutritious feeders for growth. The only time I've used mealworms is when I raised a leo hatchling.
Once in awhile I also feed my leo roaches (Blaptica dubia). Sometimes I buy Phoenix worms or hornworms for variety.
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