`Do I have a correct list of what my leopard gecko will need?

[logan1234]

I'll try that. I see he looks at his reflection in the glass when finding crickets and that might be stressing him out some maybe.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Please post a horizontal picture of your vivarium.

 

[logan1234]

Elizabeth, I'll post a picture tomorrow when I'm at my dad's house feeding mealworms to him.
Also, tomorrow I will possibly try to use the brown bags to cover the back, left, and right sides.
While I was doing my daily routine for Flynn (possibly his name, like I said) I got the temperatures. The colder hide temps got a bit lower, but are the warm side air temps still good?

Warm dry hide: 86.2

Warm side Air temps: 77.2

colder hide temps: 76.6

 

[JessJohnson87]

The cool side temps are fine, they need to be about 10* lower than the warm and those air temps are perfect.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Elizabeth, I'll post a picture tomorrow when I'm at my dad's house feeding mealworms to him.
Also, tomorrow I will possibly try to use the brown bags to cover the back, left, and right sides.
While I was doing my daily routine for Flynn (possibly his name, like I said) I got the temperatures. The colder hide temps got a bit lower, but are the warm side air temps still good?

Warm dry hide: 86.2

Warm side Air temps: 77.2

colder hide temps: 76.6

Thanks, Logan.

The ground temps under the warm dry hide should be a little warmer: between 88-92ish *F.

 

[logan1234]

I'll bump up the thermostat for the heatmat up 1 if its not warmer by tomorrow when I go to my dad's house.

 

[logan1234]

I bumped up the hydrofarm thermostat for the warmer end, and its been on for a while and here are the temps. Ill read them again and post them after I am done feeding my leopard gecko. I haven't turned on the CHE again but the temps may still be good. Should I turn it back on, or only turn it on when it looks needed? I have it off but I have the hydrofarm set for 80*F for it.

Here is the temps:

Warmer end air temps: 76.2

Warmer end hide: 89.6

Colder end hide: 75.7

Here's a picture of the tank. I think it's horizontal but I don't know until I post it.

EDIT: I got the picture right side up now.

 

[logan1234]

This is an addition to my post before this. He ate 8 mealworms today. I only put 8 in the thing I gutload them in (I gutload them in a small container the mealworms came in with crushed bearded dragon food and a small piece of carrot.) I only put 8 in since he seemed to only eat 2 crickets the other day so I thought he wouldn't be eating as much but thankfully he is ! Here are the temperatures that I said I would take again before I fed him. (Read my post before this)

Warmer end Air temps: 76.4

Warm end hide: 89.2

Colder end hide: 75.7

 

[JessJohnson87]

Your tank looks good! It will take a little time to get the temperatures tweaked just right, I played with my thermostat for like a week and watched it like a hawk until I was satisfied, while Ziggy was satisfied to just have a working heat pad. The air temperatures are still great, unless you notice a significant drop, it will be fine without the CHE for now.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

This is an addition to my post before this. He ate 8 mealworms today. I only put 8 in the thing I gutload them in (I gutload them in a small container the mealworms came in with crushed bearded dragon food and a small piece of carrot.) I only put 8 in since he seemed to only eat 2 crickets the other day so I thought he wouldn't be eating as much but thankfully he is ! Here are the temperatures that I said I would take again before I fed him. (Read my post before this)

Warmer end Air temps: 76.4

Warm end hide: 89.2

Colder end hide: 75.7

Super job, Logan! Many leos don't eat right away. Your leo has hit the ground running/eating! That's because you had everything ready to go and scarcely need to tweak his habitat at all.

A leopard gecko's preferred body temperature is 86 F.

I'd turn the CHE back on. I think 76.4*F is a little low for warm air temperatures. He'll be fine with the CHE on as long as the warm air temps do not exceed 85*F. Some keepers find that their leos are more active when the leo does not need to "stick" to the UTH in order to feel comfortable.

You could add 2 more bottle caps for tank support, one in the middle of the front and the second in the middle of the back.

 

[amsdadtodd]

It does seem like you're in good shape, but I would turn the CHE on. That will both increase the air temp at that side of the tank, and may increase the warm end hide a couple of degrees. Also, I would recommend making only that change at first, and leave it that way for a day or two before changing anything else. Your temps are not far enough off to be harmful, but the air temp is lower than ideal, and worth the effort of gradually tweaking it.

Todd

 

[logan1234]

He only ate 2 crickets today! Is this bad? I took everything out of the tank and he seemed to be wondering around, so would moving the hides cause him not to eat? They were both dusted, so I guess that's good. My dad said he may just of not been that hungry since he ate 8 mealworms his last time he ate. I kept the crickets incase I needed to try to feed him again. If I don't, I'll put them back in the big bin, but what do I do with the dusted one? Do I put it back in the big bin with the others?

 

[JessJohnson87]

You can put it back in the bin, the crickets will actually clean the calcium off of themselves. I would try leaving the hides in next time and see if he will eat more. I only remove my hides because roaches will hide behind them and not come out. But then again my leo is a lousy hunter.

 

[logan1234]

He only ate 2 crickets again today. I put them infront of him with a tong and he seemed not interested so I stopped feeding him after trying that for a while. Also he is shedding and I saw shed pieces on the floor earlier this week so the moist hide must be working .

 

[JessJohnson87]

They will usually go off food before and after a shed, so wait until Saturday to try again with food.

 

[amsdadtodd]

I'm surprised that you saw pieces of shed on the floor. Usually, they eat it right when they pull it off. I would recommend giving a thorough lookover to see if all the old skin is off, especially around feet and eyes.

Todd

 

[logan1234]

I saw some around the feet, if its not off by tomorrow evening what should I do?

 

[JessJohnson87]

You can do a soak in warm water and rub it off with a wet Q-tip. If that doesn't work, you can do a "sauna" where you put a bit of water in a container (with air holes in the lid) and stick him in that for about 15-20 minutes on the warm side then try to coax it off with a Q-tip or tweezer.

 

[amsdadtodd]

I second what Jess said. If he's done shedding and it's still on his foot, then I wouldn't wait a whole day to do the q-tip thing.

 

[logan1234]

He doesn't look like he had any shed left on him, so I didn't do the Soaking/"Sauna" thing with the Q-Tip. He ate 9 out of 10 mealworms today, I would of fed him 10 but 1 turned into pupae. I think at least. It looks like what I've seen of pupae and its white. I was also clumsy and spilled some water on the paper towels so I had to replace 2 and the extra one for him going to the bathroom. Hes also going to the bathroom in the colder end hide which is okay with me since he isn't going in the warm hide or warm moist hide which he is in more and are harder to get him out of probably.

Until I get a colony going, I'm going to put pupae in a cup with a little bit of oats in the bottom so they don't get eaten by the mealworms. I'll just put them in with the mealworms once they turn into beetles. In the pupae cup I'm going to put the ones I find (I'm not going to search through it every day thoroughly). The pupae cup will be one of the cups I got the mealworms in with air holes in the top, and oats in the bottom. They shouldn't need food since they won't be in there without being pupae.

Also, how long until they will become beetles?