`Do I have a correct list of what my leopard gecko will need?

JessJohnson87

New member
Try not to be nervous when attempting to handle and stuff. They can sense the apprehension and will be less likey to come to you. Squeaky chairs might do it to, do you have a wooden chair or a stool that makes less noise?


I also want to say this, it's a little off topic, but I want to applaud you for all the hard work you have done to make sure Flynn is happy and healthy before buying him. Most 12/13 year olds now days only care about texting, Instagram, Facebook and Justin Beiber. But you took the time to research a pet that you wanted, made sure it had the proper housing and heating arrangements, asked tons of questions and are taking care of the little guy yourself. Ok I'm done being a sappy mom. :)
 

logan1234

New member
Thanks a ton :) :) :D

There are wooden chairs downstairs. I'll try to bring it up when I'm at my dad's house.

I found a container I could feed the crickets in. I also found a shorter one that I could attach to it for a stepping stone. Would hot glue gun glue be toxic for leopard geckos?

Here are the containers like I could maybe glue them.IMG_0121[1].jpgIMG_0121[1].jpg
 
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JessJohnson87

New member
Smaller one would be better. I love my glue gun, just make sure that you get all the stringy glue off before you put it in there.
 

logan1234

New member
I found a smaller container, and I glued another container to it as a stepping stool. I'll edit this with a picture when its done drying.
 

logan1234

New member
I didn't see that message before I glued it. I would think the smallest container would have the crickets jump right out of them. This is what I glued together before I saw that.


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logan1234

New member
I unglued what I said I glued and I'll try to feed him crickets in the smaller container tomorrow.

Yesterday instead of feeding flynn 7-9 mealworms, my dad fed him 12 since he acted like he was pretty hungry. A few weren't gutloaded though. You said to feed him less mealworms since he was eating not as much crickets. He is eating around 3-4 crickets. The mealworms are smaller then to crickets, too. Should we feed him around 10 mealworms so he won't be hungry, but not be too full for crickets? It also could be the fact he might like mealworms better.
 

JessJohnson87

New member
I feed mine around 10 and I have the larger ones. If they're not great hunters, they prefer things that are easier to eat. Even with roaches, mine is still not the greatest hunter so he loves mealworm night.
 

logan1234

New member
I buy large ones from either local-owned petshop or pet supplies plus. So i'll feed him 10 from now on. Even though they are the closest to me, there 30+ minutes away. Flynn isn't a good hunter with crickets that's why I've been tong feeding him. Tomorrow I'm going to try to put them in a dish for him with there back legs cut off below the knees. Hopefully he will eat more crickets that way :). Flynn seems like he likes mealworms better also.
 

JessJohnson87

New member
"Lazy" geckos tend to like them better :)

I have my first container of mealworm beetles so I'm waiting on some eggs and babies from them :)
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
I buy large ones from either local-owned petshop or pet supplies plus. So i'll feed him 10 from now on. Even though they are the closest to me, there 30+ minutes away. Flynn isn't a good hunter with crickets that's why I've been tong feeding him. Tomorrow I'm going to try to put them in a dish for him with there back legs cut off below the knees. Hopefully he will eat more crickets that way :). Flynn seems like he likes mealworms better also.

I'd make sure Flynn is not overloaded with mealworms. Generally they contain more fat than crickets do.

I'm hoping your dish method of cricket feeding motivates Flynn to eat more crickets.

Have you been able to get a small digital scales? It would be a good idea to monitor Flynn's weight once a week.
 

logan1234

New member
I'll ask my dad about if he can get a scale. I haven't really held him out of his cage since his old owner let me hold him when I bought him. I'm still trying to get him to come to my hand. He just stares at my hand. Should I try another method of getting him to come to my hand?
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
I'll ask my dad about if he can get a scale. I haven't really held him out of his cage since his old owner let me hold him when I bought him. I'm still trying to get him to come to my hand. He just stares at my hand. Should I try another method of getting him to come to my hand?

That's a long wait. :/

If Flynn's out of the hide, what happens if you slowly place your fingers right by his nose?

I'm hoping that gecko whisperer [MENTION=55860]Zux[/MENTION] will stop by soon to give us some pointers.
 

logan1234

New member
I put my hand right under infront of his head and he didn't crawl on my hand, he just sat there looking around. He was outside of his hide when I first came in the room but when I took the CHE and screen off and went on the chair, he went back in his hide.

He also looks duller then normal so might be about to shed(extra information)
 
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logan1234

New member
I put my hand in his tank a few more times about 1 inch away from his head or closer. He doesn't lick me even, he just stares at me.
 

logan1234

New member
I got the hammock earlier and I'm going to clean it with dawn when my dad gets home. I'll let you know the temps of it when it dries and gets set up for a bit.
 

JessJohnson87

New member
I heard back from Shane and this is his advice on handling. It's a bit long.

"This following has been the information I have gathered from taming a number of different Geckos with wildly varied personalities and tolerances of human contact, this is by no means the
only way to do things.

The first thing to remember when trying to tame any Gecko is that they all have distinct personalities, anything you have read about a particular keeper's experience may or may not apply to you.

None of the taming process is scripted and it is wise for us to be respectful and try to go at a pace comfortable for the individual at hand. Forcing things unnecessarily quickly is likely to have a negative mental impact on the Gecko and believe it or not, they do remember these (sometimes forever).

With that said there are some rules which you can / should always follow before following certain steps towards taming your pet.
When close to your reptile never make sudden / jerky movements for any reason, this instantly triggers a flight response in all Geckos, I find to be irrespective of their personality.
In other words - They all hate it.
When close to your reptile try to speak at a reasonable volume, shouting or other loud noises tends to startle and / or stress them out, making them less receptive to handling or anything but hiding for that matter. Getting them used to your voice is very useful long term.
When attempting to tame any Gecko try to do so at a time they are normally comfortable being awake and outside of their favorite hide spots. For example a Leopard Gecko or African Fat Tail will likely not wish to come to your hand for any reason including food bribes during daylight hours as this is a time they normally stay hidden, compounding the stress of your presence further.
When attempting to introduce your hand to the Gecko and assuming you're not fortunate enough to have a Terrarium with front opening doors then then try to allow he/she to see the hand coming from as far away as possible, In other words, don't just reach in from the air above the gecko as this is seen by them as predatory behavior and instantly makes them wary.


Making sure to follow these rules you can begin the sometimes lengthy process of taming your Gecko, as I hinted at earlier this may take a very short or a very long time (likely somewhere in between) depending on the Gecko's personality and how careful you are throughout the process.

I have one Leopard Gecko for example who is now almost 10 months old and will still instantly flee to her hide at the sound of even my voice despite hearing it every night and tolerating handling itself very well. Some of them are just nervous individuals and this in most cases can still be worked with, though there are rare exceptions.

In contrast to this another Leopard Gecko I have took no taming at all, and I mean none. She came and ate from my hand the first night I placed her in her terrarium and the next morning instantly crawled onto my hand, up my arm and out of her environment and I have yet to see a single sign of fear months later, no matter what happens even her breathing doesn't elevate.

The point being Geckos can be vastly different even with the exact same care from the owner, so don't worry if things do not go as quickly as you like, some, as with humans, take time.


My advice is follow and repeat the following steps one by one until you can tell your Gecko is totally OK with what each involves.

Step 1: After you have given the Gecko between a week and two weeks to settle in to their new environment and begin functioning normally you can begin to familiarize them with your sight and sound, sit by the tank when you know they can see you and talk to them, a little softly but not too far from what they are going to hear daily from now on. This will help your new pet to realize you are not there to hunt them. Do this at night as often and for as long as you have time. A friend of mine studies and reads books aloud next to his African Fat Tail Geckos terrarium.

Step 2: Now that your Gecko is used to your presence next up is getting used to your smell and your hand being very close to them. Begin by slowly placing your hand onm the floor of their terrarium and see if they will come to investigate, this may take a long time, if this isn't working or stopped working move the hand to the door of their hide and waiting for them to come and investigate. Position it so that if your Gecko wishes to leave its hide it must walk across the hand, I always begin palm down at first for this step. I have yet to see a gecko that without due patience who wont come and at least look at the hand and see what it is, they are naturally curious. It should be noted however that as always some may take significantly longer than others to show any interest and patience WILL be required. The point here is getting the Gecko to realize that your hand is absolutely zero threat to them. The reason for them developing a real trust with your hand is to enable further taming through the next stages. So if you can wait until the Gecko walks onto your hand itself before moving forward with the next steps that is highly advised but not prerequisite.

Step 3: Once your Gecko has no fear of walking onto your hand you can begin to slowly lift it off the ground as the gecko is walking over it, do this slowly and only lift it a couple of inches at first before slowly placing it back down, this allows the Gecko to get used to the sensation.

Step 4: The next step from here is some short hand walking, lift your hand once your gecko is on it and slowly place your second hand in front of your Gecko as it begins to try to walk off the lifted hand, you can judge your Geckos comfort level with this by the speed at which it walks, if it slowly ambles from hand to hand continue to do it for 30 seconds or so, otherwise as soon as it begins to try to run allow it back to the ground by lowering your hand and keeping it in place where you lower it to until the gecko is in a secure spot again. Repeat this until you can get the Gecko to calmly walk between the hands at least 10 times or so. You may note at first it isn't even that cool with walking once, but this will improve with time.

Step 5: Next up is getting the Gecko used to not just your hand but your touch, once your gecko has become comfortable with climbing on and over your hand you can start very slowly touching it, what I did was try to gently stroke its side with a finger because I knew this would be the place it would be lifted up from when it came to handling. Generally speaking once your gecko is used to your hand and see's your touch coming it wont react badly to very light contact. Repeat this until you can tell the Gecko is not frightened by touch, try different areas such as the back and top of the head but always be gentle and avoid the tail. Mistakes here can push taming backward and not forward so pay attention and be gentle.

Step 6: The next and final step is picking your Gecko up, note I did not say grabbing your gecko, this isn't and never will be something I suggest doing, no matter the situation.
Use as many fingers as the space between your Geckos legs allow and very gently push your fingers underneath his/her belly while doing the same with your thumb from the other side, try to ensure you do not catch his or her skin if you're doing this when they are laying down. Lift the Gecko by its sides this way and place it into an open hand as soon as you can do so because unless they are fully supported they feel uncomfortable and will quickly struggle.

So that covers the basics, once you have gone through all of these stages and allowed a sufficient amount of time within each for your gecko to become accustomed the the new experiences it becomes a matter of repetition in order to fully tame your Gecko.

As a final note I cant stress enough the importance of patience and of trying to look at things for their point of view, rushing things like this with reptiles only has negative effects on their long term tolerances to handling and people in general.

Try to be aware of when your Gecko is not happy or feeling scared, quick pulsing of the throat almost always indicates increased level of fear and extra care should be taken when your Gecko is feeling this way. Likewise when they move in sudden bursts and stay deathly still between those they are behaving defensively and shouldn't be stressed further. If you are somewhat informed as to how they normally move and act you can make more effective decisions on how you behave around them and minimize the negative experiences they associate you with.

Good Luck"
 

logan1234

New member
I think since I've had him a while I could start with step 2 since he is in the routine of me being around him to take care of him. I'll keep trying to put my hand right infront of him and see if he will climb into my hand, like stated in step 2.
 

JessJohnson87

New member
I would print that out and have it on hand so it does not get buried in this thread. Shane does have really great advice on handling, he's just been so busy. I saved it into a word document so I have it on hand for anyone else that is struggling with being able to handle their gecko. I will honestly use this to help with my crested gecko once I move him to his new home.
 
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