Info on leopard gecko set up

A

Ami234

New member
Hi!
So glad I found this site. This Internet has so many different opinions just wanting to hear some info from people who actually own leopard geckos.
I'm getting a gecko soon and trying to find out everything I can about looking after them and setting up their habitat. I have a roughly 4 foot glass tank. It's pretty long could probably fit a few in but just wanting to get one just now. So many different options regarding heat mats heat lamps ceramic heaters etc. what's the best set up for it regarding heat and lighting? Could someone maybe do a small checklist on everything I'll need in the tank for me? Everyone I look at online is always a bit varying. Just really looking for some personal experience advice. First time lizard buyer.
 
JessJohnson87

JessJohnson87

New member
For that big of a tank, I would get the heat cable to heat up the bottom. You would have to buy 2 heat mats just to heat up half of the tank. Regulate the heat cable with a thermostat, hydrofarm is a good thermostat at a reasonable price, to reduce the chance of burning the gecko.
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...-macularius-demo-video-4-jan-2013-update.html
I would read through that care sheet as well. Most of us use ceramic tile as the substrate and some use paper towels. Repti carpet is good to, they can get teeth and claws stuck in the carpet though, but some people have no issues with the carpet. I would also fill that big of a tank with plenty of hides and places to climb on, they usually only need 3 but more won't hurt. There is so much on how to set-up a tank for these guys and I could write a book. I suggest reading through that care sheet and ask any questions you may feel confused about :)

But continue questions in this thread so everyone that pops on and off can have some background.
 
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Hey Ami234 ~

Welcome aboard!

Jess "covered" most bases with her post. :D

I'll use a numbered response for ease in replying.
  1. 48 inches long x ? wide x ? high

  2. It's a good idea to cover 1/2 to 2/3 the base with under tank heating. This picture is of 39 feet of heat cable [MENTION=52816]kholtme[/MENTION]/Kyle snaked for his 36 inch long leo tank. Just tape it down with aluminum tape.
    20150831_223625.jpg

    Scroll to post 7 right here: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...eating/79270-repti-heat-cable.html#post450928

  3. As Jess mentions, control the heat cable with a thermostat. [MENTION=55860]Zux[/MENTION] is also from the UK. Maybe he has recs too. He purchased his leo stuff from Swell Reptiles.

  4. Consider using UVB from maybe tube fluorescents overhead instead of calcium with D3, because you have a nice long enclosure. :) I use Zoo Med's Reptisun 5.0 tubes for some day geckos. [MENTION=46009]JIMI[/MENTION] uses UVB for her leo and may have suggestions.

  5. Some GU leo keepers find that their leos are more active when the air is warmer. This depends upon ambient room temperatures. Sometimes/sometimes always it's necessary to use a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) overhead to keep temperatures up. For your tank, you may need several. It helps if you have a front opening tank. Maybe your overhead screen is in sections? Flukers make a 10 inch diameter dome that's perfect. Aluminum brooder domes work well too. Air should range around 26.7*C on the warm end, never higher than 29.4*C. A digital thermometer with a probe measures both air and ground temps.

  6. I use Zoo Med's D3 Repti Calcium and plain (no D3) Reptivite; Jess switched to Repashy's Calcium Plus; other UK keepers use VetArk's Nutrobal. Zux likes locusts, but feeds much variety. How much supplement depends upon the dry diet you feed the feeders. Most gecko nutrition should come from the diet the bugs and worms eat. Lightly dust prey with supplements.

  7. Scroll to posts 81 and 87 for shorter versions of my Leo Guidelines to get you started. Post 87 is more like a check list. :)
 
Last edited:
K

Keeboard

New member
For heat and lighting, use a heat pad. Geckos are not basking lizards and get their heat from their belly to help digest food. This should cover a third to half of the floor space. If a heat pad isn't enough during the colder seasons, have a Ceramic Heat Emitter.
Here is a list of the things that should be included in the setup:
1. Three hides: one warm on top of the heat pad, one cold, and one moist with paper towel or moss as a substrate that needs to be misted frequently. This is for shedding. The moist should probably be on the warm side. Make sure the hides are large enough for your gecko to sleep in them comfortably, even as it grows.

2. Substrate. There are several options here. I recommend tile. It is natural, your geckos toes and teeth cannot get caught on it (unlike reptile carpet), it is permanent unlike any other substrate, crickets cannot get under it (unlike reptile carpet and paper towel) and there is no impaction risk. If you use tile, make sure it is slate and isn't very smooth or your gecko will slide around on it. There should be either sand or eco earth in the cracks and underneath of the tile. Eco earth is probably best because one person's gecko still managed to get some sand in his mouth even though the sand was only in the cracks. If you use eco earth, make sure it is dried out before using. Eco earth is a pain to dry out and when bought dry is expensive, though. Your choice.

3. Calcium dish. put a small dish of PURE calcium (no d3) in the tank.

4. Water dish. The dish should be shallow enough for there to be no danger of drowning. Fill this with spring water whenever it is low or dirty.

5. Thermometer. The most accurate one to get is a digital thermometer with a probe. If you choose to get this one, the probe should be placed over the warm side.

6. Something to climb on. This may not seem necessary, but it is. You gecko will need something to keep it from getting bored like a log.

7. Mealworm dish (optional). If you decide to use mealworms as a staple diet instead of crickets, you wil need this.

8. Paper towel in corner (optional). This can be in the corner your gecko chooses to go to the washroom in to make cleaning up easier.

Hope I helped!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top