My Leopard Gecko is Not Eating

[LeopardGeckoNewGirl]

My leopard gecko isn't eating. He's new but I've had him for 11 days now and he still won't touch his food. I offer him food but he doesn't take it. I know since he is new that's normal but I wanted to know then how will he get his vitamins? Should I lay out a bowl of those too with my calcium (without D3)? Any tips on how to get him to eat? Or should I just leave him alone to relieve stess and offer food every other day? Thanks.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Welcome aboard!

Please share pictures of your leo and of his enclosure.

• What temps are the warm end and cool end of his enclosure?
• What type thermometer?
• What brand D3 calcium and multivitamins have you?

Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured by the probe of a digital thermometer

• 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
• no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
• no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the UTH on 24/7. Turn off overhead lighting/heating at night (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C) during the night.

 

[LeopardGeckoNewGirl]

Note I am planing to get a thermostat. I use 2 ZooMed Circular Thermometers which stay approximately 10" above the ground. The cool side one reads around 82 degrees Fahrenheit and the hot 92 degrees Fahrenheit. However, since the red light I am using is closer to the ZooMed thermometers it shows up on the heat reading on them higher than the aquarium thermometer I keep on the bottom of the tank, which reads 84 degrees fahrenheit. (Note all these temps are when I have a option turn on turn off daily red bulb) He seems to not be uncomfortable by the heat and stays in the middle behind a grape vine log thing. I use ZooMed Calcium without D3 and ZooMed Calciumd with D3 (For feeding) and offer an open dish of the calcium without D3 like most breeders recommend. The heat was 94 degrees Fahrenheit when I checked the hot hide with the red light. I will check all the temperatures without the red light and send them to you later as it will take time to ajust.

 

[LeopardGeckoNewGirl]

Sorry I also use ReptiVal ReptiVit Mulitvitamins. The heat without the red light on is 88 degrees Fahrenheit on the hot side. 85 degrees Fahrenheit on the cool side, 94 degrees Fahrenheit on ground, and 89 degrees in the hot hide. Suggestions on red light? (Note I have been keeping it on as a precaution as we have been turning on our air conditioner lately (Also note I have tried to close the AC vent as much as possible.))
*Last note, I turn the ZooMed UTH off for 10 hours at night as it is Summer. Obviously it is a little too hot, is that why my Leo isn't eating?

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Sorry I also use ReptiVal ReptiVit Mulitvitamins. The heat without the red light on is 88 degrees Fahrenheit on the hot side. 85 degrees Fahrenheit on the cool side, 94 degrees Fahrenheit on ground, and 89 degrees in the hot hide. Suggestions on red light? (Note I have been keeping it on as a precaution as we have been turning on our air conditioner lately (Also note I have tried to close the AC vent as much as possible.))
*Last note, I turn the ZooMed UTH off for 10 hours at night as it is Summer. Obviously it is a little too hot, is that why my Leo isn't eating?

I appreciate your photos.

Being too warm could be why your leo is not eating. You may also be overdosing D3 calcium, plain calcium, and multivitamins! All supplements are formulated differently!!!

• Don't use the red light! For now just use your Zoo Med UTH.
• Get a yellow Zoo Med digital thermometer with a probe instead. What you describe is a circle (analog) thermometer. Circle thermometers give ballpark temps at best!
• Hot side ground underneath the warm dry hide should range from 88-92*F.
• Cool side ground should range from 75--->68*F.
• Check out Hydrofarm's Jump Start MTPRTC thermostat. It's the only inexpensive thermostat I know of with a digital readout and a small metal probe. I like mine; many other GU leo keepers use it too.

How long is your leo from snout to tail tip? He may be approaching 1 yo. If so, that's nice.

Have you a 10 gallon? Perhaps you could return it. It's inadequate for your new pet. I recommend a 20 gallon LONG, unless your leo is a giant morph. That's: 30 x 12 x 12 inches high. Big box pet stores sometimes have $1-per-gallon sales. Then buy an 11 x 17 inch Fluker's or Ultratherm UTH.

Please remove the pure calcium dish from the enclosure. It's not suggested at all on a regular basis. In fact, here's what GU's admin Hilde writes in her post 22 (left side caresheet numbers):
"CALCIUM - excess:
Excess calcium in the digestive tract can hinder absorption of Vitamin A and D (we won't worry about E & K here). MBD is often considered to be caused by a shortage of calcium, but can happen even though there is ample calcium available. If there's not enough Vit D available, either stored in the liver or absorbed via food/supplements, then there won't be enough calcium absorbed. If you suspect a calcium shortage, it's easy to increase the amount available by dusting more often, even to the point of 'icing' the bugs with calcium, all of which just puts more calcium into the intestines but allowing less and less Vitamin A & D to be absorbed.... a vicious circle. The result is a gecko with possible MBD (even if it gets a calcium supplement), and a severe shortage of Vitamin A & D.

And so it continues.... more calcium, less vitamin A & D.

The next big worry is the next generation. Vitamin A and/or D imbalance can affect the young - offspring might hatch tiny, maybe shorter than normal tails, missing or deformed eyelids, a pouch-like flap of skin under the chin (looks like a tiny dewlap), weak, poor vision or even blind, weak or even deformed bones, including skull. It gets shrugged off as one of those things, after all, even in the wild they don't all hatch perfect.

Who would have thought that it could be traced to excess calcium?"

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

:scratchhead: I have not heard of ReptiVal ReptiVit Mulitvitamins.

Please click on the leo caresheet that is linked below in my signature. Scroll to posts 124 and 126.

Depending upon the age of your leo, there's a suggested Feeding & Supplement Schedule for him.

 

[LeopardGeckoNewGirl]

Sorry ReptiCal

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Sorry ReptiCal

Do you mean Rep-Cal's Herptivite with a blue label?

Click: https://www.amazon.com/Rep-Cal-SRP00300-Herptivite-Multivitamin-Supplement/dp/B00BS96HRM

Please reply to post 5 on this thread. There are many things that need tweaking.

 

[LeopardGeckoNewGirl]

Okay, thank you. I have a 20 gallon tank for my one Leo. Thank you for the advice, I have removed the calcium dish. The reason why I had if was because I heard other people had one in their tank 24/7, I guess I shouldn't trust everything I hear. I plan to purchase that thermostat and the thermometer you recommended (I was already looking at that thermostat ) I was unaware of the health problems that could come up with the calcium, and plan to only feed the D3 calcium with mealworms (he hadn't eaten therefore he hasn't gotton the D3). Everywhere I read though it said to have a dish full of calcium at all times and if they need it they will lap it up, with non of the health warnings. He isn't getting vitamins still however so should I leave out a bowl of those? What should I do with the plain Calcium, on what timely basis should I offer it, or can I offer it on the daily basis when he is getting his vitamins? Also, when I get the digital ZooMed thermometer, will need two, one for the hot side and one for the cool side, or can I check both by alternating? The probe can be used in the substrate right? Is there an adhesive to stick the thermometer on the glass for viewing? Last few questions about these products, can I use one thermostat for both temperature side of my terrarium? What heat setting is recommended to keep both sides a good heat? Thank you, and sorry for all the questions!

 

[LeopardGeckoNewGirl]

Please look at my further replies. Sorry for not seeing your other replies I was busy replying to your first comment and did not reload. I did mean Repti-Cal as you said before and plan to buy both thermostat and thermometer. I asked questions above. I have removed the calcium dish as I said in the previous comment. I will buy some Repti-Cal Calcium to replace the ZooMed so I can get the right measurements, as they want a 1:1 ratio of it. My Leo is about 8" from head to tail. He is an adult, at least that is what I was told. I have been holding him to every other day eating schedule. It is changeable though. Thank you and sorry for this, I thought that I had it down when I really don't. I know how frustrating this must be for you being a professional and am dearly sorry. I will try to fix all of this to the best of my abilities. But it's only the beginning, so I still have a chance to make things right.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Please look at my further replies. Sorry for not seeing your other replies I was busy replying to your first comment and did not reload. I did mean Repti-Cal as you said before and plan to buy both thermostat and thermometer. I asked questions above. I have removed the calcium dish as I said in the previous comment. I will buy some Repti-Cal Calcium to replace the ZooMed so I can get the right measurements, as they want a 1:1 ratio of it. My Leo is about 8" from head to tail. He is an adult, at least that is what I was told. I have been holding him to every other day eating schedule. It is changeable though. Thank you and sorry for this, I thought that I had it down when I really don't. I know how frustrating this must be for you being a professional and am dearly sorry. I will try to fix all of this to the best of my abilities. But it's only the beginning, so I still have a chance to make things right.

No worries. You seem eager to learn, so that's all good.

1. Do you mean Rep-Cal products? The names are almost spelled the same. Please link the exact multivitamins you are have.
2. Instead buy both Zoo Med products. They have a great reputation!
   Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3
   Zoo Med plain (no D3) Reptivite multivitamins
3. Your 8 inch leo is probably a sub-adult. Steve should know how old he is.
4. Thanks for removing the calcium dish.
5. Feed him 3x weekly.
   

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Okay, thank you. I have a 20 gallon tank for my one Leo. Thank you for the advice, I have removed the calcium dish. The reason why I had if was because I heard other people had one in their tank 24/7, I guess I shouldn't trust everything I hear. I plan to purchase that thermostat and the thermometer you recommended (I was already looking at that thermostat ) I was unaware of the health problems that could come up with the calcium, and plan to only feed the D3 calcium with mealworms (he hadn't eaten therefore he hasn't gotton the D3). Everywhere I read though it said to have a dish full of calcium at all times and if they need it they will lap it up, with non of the health warnings. He isn't getting vitamins still however so should I leave out a bowl of those? What should I do with the plain Calcium, on what timely basis should I offer it, or can I offer it on the daily basis when he is getting his vitamins? Also, when I get the digital ZooMed thermometer, will need two, one for the hot side and one for the cool side, or can I check both by alternating? The probe can be used in the substrate right? Is there an adhesive to stick the thermometer on the glass for viewing? Last few questions about these products, can I use one thermostat for both temperature side of my terrarium? What heat setting is recommended to keep both sides a good heat? Thank you, and sorry for all the questions!

You're welcome. Many keepers give different advice for leos, so it can be a nightmare when you are new to the hobby!

1. Don't keep a bowl or small lid of any supplement in his vivarium, even vitamins. Hilde really knows her leos, vitamins, and just about everything leo!
2. Please confirm that you'll keep the Zoo Med D3 Repti Calcium and buy some Zoo Med plain (no D3) Reptivite multivamins. Then I'll post the schedule.
3. Reptile carpet retains bacteria from the urine and the feces. I suggest paper towels or textured ceramic tiles at least until you get comfortable with your leo.
4. Mealworms and crickets (or Blaptica dubia) will give your leo some variety.
5. Buy one thermostat. Set it at 91*F. The thermostat monitors the hot side temps.
6. Buy one Zoo Med thermometer with a probe. Tape the probe to the thermostat's probe. The cool end will be room temperature.
7. Place both probes on top of the substrate underneath the warm dry hide. These probes measure the same substrate temperature your leo feels when he lies there.
8. Does your leo have 3 hides: warm dry, warm moist, and cool dry?

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Also, do you think an Exo Terra Night Glo bulb would work? It's a blue-ish purple light and people say it's visible but a little dimmer, and it imitates the moon. The reason why I would want a bulb like this is because I want a night-light-ish type thing for my Leo. Not exactly for viewing, but because I will need some light that won't affect my Leo too much at night, as my sister is a pain and needs a light so she can go to the bathroom (His tank is in our bathroom, it's actually fairly quiet and nice in there). I personally can find my way through the dark but I'm afraid she will turn on the normal light at night like she's done 2 times before (Luckily it was around day time so he wasn't that disturbed). Still, yikes! I don't want my Leo to be scared in the night due to a normal bulb being turned on! Anyways, do you think a 25 watt Exo Terra Night Glo bulb would work and not disturb my Leo? I have a 12" x 12" x 30" 20 gallon tank. I am not sure if you would know but I thought I'd ask. Thank you for everything!

I know about the Exo Terra Night Glo bulbs. As long as your sister turns off the light after she uses the bathroom, it will not be a problem.

Thanks for the dimensions of your 20 LONG tank.

 

[Zux]

I know about the Exo Terra Night Glo bulbs. As long as your sister turns off the light after she uses the bathroom, it will not be a problem.

To add to the above and state the obvious, the Gecko needs a period of absolute darkness so the light cannot be on for more than 15 minutes or so (preferably much less) at night.

This period of dark every night is extremely important for their well-being and while these lights may appear dim to our vision, they are glaringly obvious to the Gecko who has sight so powerful they exhibit color vision even in the dark.

The reason I mention this is I read what you said about your sister needing a light at night, the Geckos enclosure absolutely cannot be that light.

 

[LeopardGeckoNewGirl]

Okay, thank for clearing it up. He does have 3 hides, moist, cool, and hot. I will switch my plans to getting the ZooMed Vitamins and keep the calcium with D3 and the calcium without D3. I will not use the Rep-Cal stuff with the blue label.. I will also try to get a Exo Terra Night Glo bulb soon. I also plan to email Steve to confirm with him the exact age of my leo. I did plan to possibly use crickets later every once and a while, maybe when I'm a little more experience. I'm not sure if my gecko will even like them and they seem like a hassle right now. Also, then what should I do with my plain calcium, I know I should use the D3 one with the food but what about the plain? Thanks!I will get a Exo terra Night Glo bulb but my leo doesn't actually seem to mind the red.
**YAY!! He ate one mealworm last night!!**
~Update~
I am looking at all the different substrate selections right now. I have pretty much ruled out sand, just because I don't want impaction to happen (even if some people say the play sand is safe I won't be taking chances). I might use the Repti Carpet because I have it but have now been considering slate or tiles of some kind. Recommendations? I don't want to use paper towels however, as it looks bad and it might lead to burns from the UTH. However, where would I put the thermostat the heat of the tile? I'm not sure if it's heat conducting and with the UTH it might be too hot. Right now I have a piece of Repti Carpet that is covered by sand so it makes a naturalistic kind of strip that's even with the other half of sand that covers the whole thing, if you know what I mean. Basically, half of the terrarium is covered by sand (Hot side), and the other is sand with a pice of Repti Carpet on top (Food and water is on this side, it is the cool side and has the humid hide). Would changing to tile be too big of a stressful change for my leo? Why I was looking into the play sand is because it wouldn't be tto much money and wouldn't be a big change from the Calci Sand and the play sand he was probably raised on (Not as a baby I think Steve uses paper towels for babies and juveniles, but mine is a sub-adult so he was probably put on sand). I will update you later on his exact age after email Steve.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

So I need a night light for my leopard gecko. I would probably only want it for the light, not the heat. I wanted to ask you guys just in case any of you use these products to check. If I just want the light, which one should I use? I have read the reviews and the ZooMed seems to be dimmer and transfer less heat. What wattage and product should I use for a 12" x 12" x 30" tank (20 Gallon)? Thanks,

Please continue right here.

Your leo does not need any light at night. As Zux (Shane) posted, total darkness is best.

For the dim light your sister needs to get around in the bathroom at night consider a small shielded 7 watt night light that plugs into one of your bathroom outlets.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

BTW, what are the dimensions of your Zoo Med UTH? The UTH should be large enough (up to half the bottom of your 30 x 12 x 12 inch tank) so that both the warm dry and warm moist hides can sit right on it.

Which schedule I post depends upon the age of your leo.

To be continued......

 

[LeopardGeckoNewGirl]

Okay, well I saw this for the ZooMed products; I got this UTH; https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTherm®-Heater-Medium/dp/B0002AQCL4 and will get a 7 watt instead, which would be good as it is cheaper (I was just looking for something my Leo wouldn't mind too much). I will update you on the exact age of my Leo and continue with the feeding schedule I have set up for the time being;

Saturday - Calcium (with D3) w/mealworms
Monday - Calcium (with D3) and Rep-Cal Herptivite Multivitamins w/mealworms
Thursday - Calcium (with D3) w/mealworms

Any problems with this schedule? It's not permanent it's just until I get the ZooMed vitamins. As for the substrate, what type of tile do you recommend and can I use my Calci sand as a base (So it stays in place)? I don't need 50lbs of play sand just so I can use it as a base!

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Okay, well I saw this for the ZooMed products; View attachment 39614 I got this UTH; https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTherm®-Heater-Medium/dp/B0002AQCL4 and will get a 7 watt instead, which would be good as it is cheaper (I was just looking for something my Leo wouldn't mind too much). I will update you on the exact age of my Leo and continue with the feeding schedule I have set up for the time being;

Saturday - Calcium (with D3) w/mealworms
Monday - Calcium (with D3) and Rep-Cal Herptivite Multivitamins w/mealworms
Thursday - Calcium (with D3) w/mealworms

Any problems with this schedule? It's not permanent it's just until I get the ZooMed vitamins. As for the substrate, what type of tile do you recommend and can I use my Calci sand as a base (So it stays in place)? I don't need 50lbs of play sand just so I can use it as a base!

(I know this is not post 15.)

A Zoo Med medium UTH (8" x 12") UTH is too small for your tank. The Fluker's or Ultratherm 11 x 17 inch mat is much better. That way you'll be able to place both the warm dry and warm moist hides on top of it like you should.

Another point is that the Zoo Med UTHs are not reusable. The wires may become damaged if it's moved.

There are a several problems with that schedule.

• Mealworms are much more fatty than crickets. That's why they are not a good full-time diet.
  Click: http://www.geckotime.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/table-large.png
  
• D3 calcium 3x per week is way too much.
  
• It's important to get Zoo Med plain (no D3) ReptiVite multivitamins now. Vitamin A acetate (retinol) is missing from Herptivite.

Both Zoo Med products (D3 Repti Calcium & plain ReptiVite multivitamins) already contain good amounts of calcium. That's why, depending upon the age of your leo, he might not need any plain calcium with the schedule I will post. It's very comprehensive.

The calci-sand will be alright only for a thin layer beneath the tiles to even out the grooves. Porcelain and ceramic tiles have groves underneath where the grout usually goes. Those groves create hot spots when the UTH is on. I recommend textured ceramic tiles. Shiny smooth tiles are too slippery.

 

[LeopardGeckoNewGirl]

Thank you, but the UTH is almost half the tank when it is laid diagonally. I do have the moist hide in the cool side because it makes the tank too humid, and where it is i's around 80 degrees so it still stays humid enough. What do you recommend for the supplements? Two times D3? That's what I had before I saw the list thing I showed you in post #18. I can't get the crickets into the diet yet I am sorry I just don't feel comfortable with them and it would take getting used to for my Leo. I might just purchase some crickets every two weeks and feed them to him with the calcium or something. I don't have anywhere to keep the crickets (I have a really small cricket keeper...) don't know anything about them, and don't have the proper guy load for them, plus, getting them right now would mean them being on the Calci sand. Sorry for not taking your advice I just can't do that right now.