Mating female leo, bruised vent

[CThompson]

My female leopard gecko has a bruised looking vent, its purple and blue. I think it is cause from my male leopard gecko possibly breeding with her, im not sure because i didnt see. is there anything I should do to help her? She is 2 1/2 years old, weight is around 60 grams, and shes housed in a 30 gallon tank with my male leopard gecko. theyve been together for about 6 months and get along great.

 

[Aimless]

can you post a photo?

 

[CThompson]

No im sorry i dont have an sort of camera, to take a picture with but ill describe it the best I can. Her vent isnt swollen, and she passed a normal sized normal looking stool last night. she just seems a little bruised. its not dark but its light purple with a little bit of blue right on the opening of her vent. Shes acting normal and is eating well.

 

[CThompson]

This is also her first time being bred.

 

[PoppyDear]

Newbie here, but I may have some advice;

I am assuming all of your husbandry is correct, could you possibly fill out this; http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...ko-revised-feb-2015-health-questionnaire.html

Are you purposely breeding them? If not, I would seperate both of them to prevent health issues and preserve their health if this is in fact due to the male. Completely your decision though, just do your research and make a negative and positive list (It may help ).

Next, I would call a vet and take her in, just in case, watch for any discharge, unusual stool, lethargic behavior, less appite or change in any behavior that isn't "normal".

It doesn't sound like this, but does this picture look anything like what your gecko has;


This is what a normal vent should look like;


NOTE: These are not my photos, they are simply found on the internet. Maybe if you do a search you will find a picture that resembles your gecko's vent.

I hope she'll be okay,


Mara

 

[CThompson]

Yes I am breeding them on purpose and thank you so much for the help. Her vent is normal looking like the 2nd photo she just has slight bruising.
Species of lizard: Leopard Gecko
Gecko's name: Zilla
Morph: Normal
Gender: Female
Age: 16 months
Weight: 60 grams
Enclosure dimensions: 36"L x 18"W x 18"H
Substrate provided: Paper towels, and nesting box of Eco Earth
brand of thermometer: Zilla analog
temperature on the warm end: 85'
temperature on the cool end: 75'
used to maintain the temperature: Heating lamp (planning to switch to under tank heater soon)
Insects and worms: meal worms, crickets, occasionally a freeze dried cricket or silkworm as a treat
Regular diet fed to the insects: fresh fruits, going to buy feeder cubes soon.
How often do you feed: Every 3 days
supplements: powder calcium, Flukers brand.
She is Captive bred, has 5 hides (including a moist shedding hide and a nesting hide) She prefers the warmer side of the tank but at night shes usually wandering the cool side. Temp doesnt decrease much at night. The calcium in her tank has D3, her diet has been the same. I dont know her exact length when i got her but I adopted her the day after she was born if that helps. She has normal activity, bright eyes, no discharge, her weight has been the same, shes eating normally, no weakness or regurgitation, normal stool. Healthy plump tail. Shes never had any health issues. Her only tank mate is the male I want to breed her with, Quasimodo, who will be removed once I know she pregnant.
Hope this helps! i will try to borrow someones phone so i can post pictures.

 

[CThompson]

 

[CThompson]

The more yellow gecko is the female, this is an older pic, her tails more plumb now. And the darker gecko is the male.

 

[CThompson]

 

[PoppyDear]

Yes I am breeding them on purpose and thank you so much for the help. Her vent is normal looking like the 2nd photo she just has slight bruising.
Species of lizard: Leopard Gecko
Gecko's name: Zilla
Morph: Normal
Gender: Female
Age: 16 months
Weight: 60 grams
Enclosure dimensions: 36"L x 18"W x 18"H
Substrate provided: Paper towels, and nesting box of Eco Earth
brand of thermometer: Zilla analog
temperature on the warm end: 85'
temperature on the cool end: 75'
used to maintain the temperature: Heating lamp (planning to switch to under tank heater soon)
Insects and worms: meal worms, crickets, occasionally a freeze dried cricket or silkworm as a treat
Regular diet fed to the insects: fresh fruits, going to buy feeder cubes soon.
How often do you feed: Every 3 days
supplements: powder calcium, Flukers brand.
She is Captive bred, has 5 hides (including a moist shedding hide and a nesting hide) She prefers the warmer side of the tank but at night shes usually wandering the cool side. Temp doesnt decrease much at night. The calcium in her tank has D3, her diet has been the same. I dont know her exact length when i got her but I adopted her the day after she was born if that helps. She has normal activity, bright eyes, no discharge, her weight has been the same, shes eating normally, no weakness or regurgitation, normal stool. Healthy plump tail. Shes never had any health issues. Her only tank mate is the male I want to breed her with, Quasimodo, who will be removed once I know she pregnant.
Hope this helps! i will try to borrow someones phone so i can post pictures.

They look pretty healthy! I do think it is good that you are switching to an UTH mat. Make sure to use a thermostat with a probe. You can combine the heat mat with a light as well, to get proper air temperatures, just make sure to turn it off at night. It isn't UVB right? If it is, be careful when supplimenting with D3 and provide many hides for them to escape it.

Speaking of suppliments, can you link the kind you use? How much and how often do you give? I suppliment with Repashy Calcium Plus, check out this thread; http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...hy-leopard-gecko-calcium-plus-supplement.html
You can suppliment with something like that or use multiple calciums, with and without D3, Repashy Calcium Plus has a balance so you don't have to worry about that. There is also this feeding schedule:
Feed an adult leopard gecko crickets or dubia 2x per week and mealworms 1x per week:
Crickets or dubia>Monday
Crickets or dubia>Thursday
Mealworms>Saturday

Use Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3 1x per week. Lightly dust it on half the crickets or dubia, not every insect at that feeding.
Use Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins without D3 lightly dusted on crickets or dubia every other week or 2x per month. Maybe only lightly dust half of the insects at that feeding.
Use some plain precipitated calcium carbonate (purer than oyster shell calcium). The NOW brand sold in health foods stores is ideal.


Nutritional Comparisons of Insects & Worms
Click: Page Not Found - Gecko Time - Gecko Time


Monthly Schedule for Leos 18 months old +

Week 1:
Crickets or dubia>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets or dubia>Thursday- no dusting
Mealworms>Saturday- no dusting

Week 2:
Crickets or dubia>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets or dubia>Thursday- plain (no D3) ReptiVite multivitamins
Mealworms>Saturday- no dusting

Week 3:
Crickets or dubia>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets or dubia>Thursday- no dusting
Mealworms>Saturday- no dusting

Week 4:
Crickets or dubia>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets or dubia>Thursday- plain (no D3) ReptiVite multivitamins
Mealworms>Saturday- no dusting

Week 5:
Continue this every other week schedule.


The cool end temperatures are great! I am just wondering if those temperatures are air or ground? If those are indeed the air temps on the warm side, it is too hot. Belly heat is vital as well, I had mine have digestive issues (Didn't poop for 2 weeks) when my UTH's temperatures weren't correct. Thermostats do wonders! Here is an excerpt from the caresheet that may aid you when you purchase a heat mat;

Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured by the probe of a digital thermometer
88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end


I think that you should just watch your gecko and see if something isn't normal. Keep an eye on the bruising and see if it slowly starts to disappear. Does it look any better from the last time you saw it? Some vets (Look for a reptile specialist if you decide to do this) can give you advice just by a simple call. There are also websites you can go to and for a small fee, talk to a vet.

To be safe, head to a vet, but I think they will be alright if you just watch them. Good luck,



Mara

 

[CThompson]

They look pretty healthy! I do think it is good that you are switching to an UTH mat. Make sure to use a thermostat with a probe. You can combine the heat mat with a light as well, to get proper air temperatures, just make sure to turn it off at night. It isn't UVB right? If it is, be careful when supplimenting with D3 and provide many hides for them to escape it.

Speaking of suppliments, can you link the kind you use? How much and how often do you give? I suppliment with Repashy Calcium Plus, check out this thread; http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...hy-leopard-gecko-calcium-plus-supplement.html
You can suppliment with something like that or use multiple calciums, with and without D3, Repashy Calcium Plus has a balance so you don't have to worry about that. There is also this feeding schedule:
Feed an adult leopard gecko crickets or dubia 2x per week and mealworms 1x per week:
Crickets or dubia>Monday
Crickets or dubia>Thursday
Mealworms>Saturday

Use Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3 1x per week. Lightly dust it on half the crickets or dubia, not every insect at that feeding.
Use Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins without D3 lightly dusted on crickets or dubia every other week or 2x per month. Maybe only lightly dust half of the insects at that feeding.
Use some plain precipitated calcium carbonate (purer than oyster shell calcium). The NOW brand sold in health foods stores is ideal.


Nutritional Comparisons of Insects & Worms
Click: Page Not Found - Gecko Time - Gecko Time


Monthly Schedule for Leos 18 months old +

Week 1:
Crickets or dubia>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets or dubia>Thursday- no dusting
Mealworms>Saturday- no dusting

Week 2:
Crickets or dubia>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets or dubia>Thursday- plain (no D3) ReptiVite multivitamins
Mealworms>Saturday- no dusting

Week 3:
Crickets or dubia>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets or dubia>Thursday- no dusting
Mealworms>Saturday- no dusting

Week 4:
Crickets or dubia>Monday- D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets or dubia>Thursday- plain (no D3) ReptiVite multivitamins
Mealworms>Saturday- no dusting

Week 5:
Continue this every other week schedule.


The cool end temperatures are great! I am just wondering if those temperatures are air or ground? If those are indeed the air temps on the warm side, it is too hot. Belly heat is vital as well, I had mine have digestive issues (Didn't poop for 2 weeks) when my UTH's temperatures weren't correct. Thermostats do wonders! Here is an excerpt from the caresheet that may aid you when you purchase a heat mat;

Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured by the probe of a digital thermometer
88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end


I think that you should just watch your gecko and see if something isn't normal. Keep an eye on the bruising and see if it slowly starts to disappear. Does it look any better from the last time you saw it? Some vets (Look for a reptile specialist if you decide to do this) can give you advice just by a simple call. There are also websites you can go to and for a small fee, talk to a vet.

To be safe, head to a vet, but I think they will be alright if you just watch them. Good luck,

Mara

Fluker's this is the calcium I use. And im getting a mat for Christmas, Ill add a thermostat to the list Right now im having issues finding a exotic vet but when I do i have plans to take all my geckos to the vet. and Yes the bruise is already fading away. Ill make a call soon but thank you for all of the good advice.

 

[CThompson]

i saved the feeding schedule. Unfortunately there is no place near where i can buy dubia roaches, so right now Im looking for a good place to order them from. And stupid question, but if i put the thermometer down on the ground would it get the ground temp?

 

[PoppyDear]

i saved the feeding schedule. Unfortunately there is no place near where i can buy dubia roaches, so right now Im looking for a good place to order them from. And stupid question, but if i put the thermometer down on the ground would it get the ground temp?

You said you feed crickets, so you don't need to feed dubias if you don't want to, especially of they are harder to find. Crickets are great too! Notice the "or" on the feeding schedule . It is great that you have saved it!

Next, I just looked back on the gecko information sheet you filled out and I noticed the type of thermometer you have. The circular ones, correct? Those are quite inaccurate and will not get you correct air temps or ground temps. To get the ground temperature you will need a thermometer with a probe (Also great to measure the temperature of the heat mat). I have a reccomendation here;

•https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digi...458776117&ref_=sr_1_1&s=merchant-items&sr=1-1

All you do is place the probe onto the substrate on the warm side and you will get the ground temperature. The circular stick on will give you a very rough estimate, nor will it give you ground temperature very well, I do not reccomend them. When you get the heat mat, you simply place it atop the substrate above the heat mat as well.

•https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S

This is a good thermostat for the heat mat as well.

I am glad the bruising is beginning to fade, I wonder if any breeders have experience with this. I am glad she is doing better!



Mara

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

i saved the feeding schedule. Unfortunately there is no place near where i can buy dubia roaches, so right now Im looking for a good place to order them from. And stupid question, but if i put the thermometer down on the ground would it get the ground temp?

Hi ~

A warm welcome to Geckos Unlimited! Mara has you well-covered. I'll add a couple things.

I'm a little confused about Zilla's age. In your first post you mentioned that she is 2.5 yo. In the Health Questionnaire you say 16 months. Be sure to keep an eye on her irregardless. The recommended age to begin breeding is about 18 mo for a female. Hopefully the male is not being too aggressive.

It's not a good idea to keep calcium with D3 in the enclosure for free access. There's always some chance a leo might overdose.

For your 36 x 18 x 18 inch enclosure I recommend 39 feet of heat cables instead of a heat mat. You'll easily be able to cover half the bottom that way. Aliza (acpart) has mentioned that the first 6 feet of the heat cables are not heated. Here's an example covering 1/2 + a little of a 40 gallon breeder tank measuring 36 x 18 x 17.



Breeding Blaptica dubia roaches is easy! All you need are several adult females and several males to get started. Then the following:

• 10 gallon vivarium with a screen top
• 8.5 inch or 10 inch diameter Fluker's clamp lamp
• 40 watt bulb in a 70ish* room; 25 watts in summer maybe
• 5 egg flats trimmed a bit so they fit standing up. Position the egg flats front-to-front, then back-to-back, and so on.
  • Get free egg flats from restaurants and bakeries
• Paper towel laid on top of the egg flats. Spray the paper towel daily for moisture.
• Medium size dish of finely ground Zoo Med's Natural Adult Bearded Dragon Food or Pro Gutload in a dish to the side.
  • Click: 1 lb Pro Gutload - Professional Reptiles
  • Click: Food & Water :: Insect Food
• Chopped high calcium, low phosphorus veggies in a dish off to the side like collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, pesticide-free dandelion greens and flowers.

 

[CThompson]

Thanks! I got some extra cash so today I'm actually heading out to get a tank heater and a good thermometer

 

[CThompson]

Yes the whole age thing was my bad. She really is 16 months, and my male isn't aggressive he's actually pretty sweet! There's been a few times where I saw him trying to mount her and as soon as she decided she didn't want to and turn around quickley he would back out and leave her alone. Thank you for the tank mat sizes that really helps. I'm going out today to buy one. I'll also pick up some good calcium with no D3 while I'm out. And I'll certainly consider breeding Dubia roaches quick question though, what do you think of feeding them hornworms as occasional treats? I've seen them in the stores and I've seen videos of people feeding them to leopard geckos, thanks!

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

How often do you feed: Every 3 days
supplements: powder calcium, Flukers brand.
She is Captive bred, has 5 hides (including a moist shedding hide and a nesting hide) She prefers the warmer side of the tank but at night shes usually wandering the cool side. Temp doesnt decrease much at night. The calcium in her tank has D3, her diet has been the same. I dont know her exact length when i got her but I adopted her the day after she was born if that helps. She has normal activity, bright eyes, no discharge, her weight has been the same, shes eating normally, no weakness or regurgitation, normal stool. Healthy plump tail. Shes never had any health issues. Her only tank mate is the male I want to breed her with, Quasimodo, who will be removed once I know she pregnant.

Yes the whole age thing was my bad. She really is 16 months, and my male isn't aggressive he's actually pretty sweet! There's been a few times where I saw him trying to mount her and as soon as she decided she didn't want to and turn around quickley he would back out and leave her alone. Thank you for the tank mat sizes that really helps. I'm going out today to buy one. I'll also pick up some good calcium with no D3 while I'm out. And I'll certainly consider breeding Dubia roaches quick question though, what do you think of feeding them hornworms as occasional treats? I've seen them in the stores and I've seen videos of people feeding them to leopard geckos, thanks!

You're welcome.

Have you removed any calcium with D3 from your leo's enclosure? There's a chance of overdosing that way.

Using heat cables will give you better coverage for your 36 x 18 than any heat pad I know about. Use aluminum tape from a hardware store to tape the heat cables underneath the tank in a "snake" pattern like I mentioned.

Precipitated calcium carbonate is purer than limestone calcium. I'd either get NOW plain calcium carbonate from a health foods store or Zoo Med's plain Repti Calcium.

Be sure to pick up some Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins without D3 for both your pair.

Hornworms are an excellent! Most leos love them! Can you buy a few at a time? If not,

Click: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...eeding-issues-/68585-hornworm-guidelines.html

 

[CThompson]

Today I got Zoo meds repti calcium n it is plain I got rid of the old. And yes I can get more then one horn worm I plan on getting three or four tomorrow actually. All of my geckos eat crickets and meal worms except my male who won't even turn his head for mealworms. He bit one once and spit it out lol

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Today I got Zoo meds repti calcium n it is plain I got rid of the old. And yes I can get more then one horn worm I plan on getting three or four tomorrow actually. All of my geckos eat crickets and meal worms except my male who won't even turn his head for mealworms. He bit one once and spit it out lol

I'm confused. You need 3 supplements:

• Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3
• Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins without D3
• (+ Zoo Med's plain Repti Calcium)

 

[CThompson]

I'm sorry now I'm confused. Do I combine them? Do I keep them in separate dishes? I have calcium wit and without.