Juvenile Leopard Gecko Won't Eat

[Levi_Wenrich]

I got a my first Leopard Gecko a little over a week ago, the first night I had him, he ate well for being new, 3-4 Crickets. But over the days he's only eaten maybe 2, I tried keeping crickets in his enclosure over night, and tried leaving him alone completely for 2 days (not including me giving him fresh water) But he hasn't wanted to eat, and its been 4-5 days, he pooped the first 2-3 days but now he's not pooping, and I'm a bit worried because I've tried giving him crickets, and meal worms, but he seems intrested in none, he seems rather scared of the crickets, but the shop i got him from claimed they fed him crickets every day, and that he ate 5-7. And now he's eaten only 2 within the span of 4-5 days. Also Ive held him and he's calm, he's still a bit skittish but he doesn't seem to be scared, so I don't know what to do, does anyone know what might be happening, I don't think he's about to shed either, because he isn't changing colors of any sort

 

[ReptiFiles]

It's normal for a new leopard gecko not to eat regularly at first. Leopard geckos are stressed out easily be new surroundings, and it can take 1-2 weeks or so to adjust. One thing you can do is stop handling him. I know it's SO tempting because he's adorable, but you must resist. Handling is very stressful for reptiles (they're not like dogs or humans), and it's best not to touch them until they're eating regularly.

As for other sources for your problem, what are your temps like (warm side, cool side)?

 

[Levi_Wenrich]

His hot side goes from around 81-85 and his cold sides goes from about 79-81

 

[ReptiFiles]

Those temps are pretty cool. Bump up your hot side to 85 at very lowest and 90-91 at highest. Higher tends to be better than lower when it comes to boosting appetite. Here's the temperature gradient recommended by ReptiFiles.com:
- Cool end: no lower than 70°F (21°C)
- Warm end: 85-90°F (30-33°C)
- Ambient: 75-80°F (23-27°C)

You can read through their info on heating for leopard geckos here: https://www.reptifiles.com/leopard-gecko-care/leopard-gecko-temperatures-humidity/

 

[Levi_Wenrich]

Ok, I boosted his Temp and ill give an update tomorrow on how he is doing, and i offered him a cricket earlier and he seemed scared of it, but the shop I got him from said they only fed him crickets, and they arent too big, I know that

 

[ReptiFiles]

I hope he improves! If he continues to avoid crickets, you can also try mealworms. Many leopard gecko keepers have success with them.

 

[Levi_Wenrich]

He was raised without them, but I bought them before knowing that he had never had them, anyways he just ignores them, pretends they aren't there

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

His hot side goes from around 81-85 and his cold sides goes from about 79-81

Welcome aboard, Levi!

Are these air or ground temps? What type thermometer do you use?

A leo really needs ground temps between 88-92 F underneath his warm dry hide in order to digest his prey.

Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C):

• 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
• no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
• no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the UTH on 24/7. At night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C).

 

[Levi_Wenrich]

Thats the Air temp, I got a thermometer with a probe, and his warm side is 86-95 and cool side 80-83

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Thats the Air temp, I got a thermometer with a probe, and his warm side is 86-95 and cool side 80-83

95*F ground temp is too warm.

Adjust your warm end ground temps inside the warm dry hide to be from 88-92*F. That's where my recommendations are based and what your leo feels when he lies there.

A thermostat will do that. I have Hydrofarm's Jump Start MTPRTC thermostat from Amazon for my leo. Last I saw they are $20. Apollo thermostats are alright -- same price. A thermostat is really necessary. A thermostat turns off the heat mat when the temps get above a set temperature -- say 91*F.

A 10 gallon has NO wiggle room.

Something else that reduces stress is to cover both sides and the back with brown paper or paper towels. If the enclosure is already in a corner, that just leaves 1 side to cover.

 

[Levi_Wenrich]

Thanks, Ill try the paper bag trick and I'm loading money onto a card tomorrow to order the thermostat, but later I'm going to try to assist feed him. Assist feed not force! Im just going to cut the head off a cricket and see if he'll respond to it.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Thanks, Ill try the paper bag trick and I'm loading money onto a card tomorrow to order the thermostat, but later I'm going to try to assist feed him. Assist feed not force! Im just going to cut the head off a cricket and see if he'll respond to it.

You're most welcome!

Another tip:
Cut off the crickets' back legs right below their "knees". That slows them down, but they can still walk around.

What powdered supplements have you? Please include brand names and the frequency you use them.

 

[Levi_Wenrich]

Ok so I tryed assist feeding, and he denied the cricket, but when I tryed with a meal worm he ate it, I’m currently feeding him, but he’s being stubborn and is making me feed him with tongs, he didn’t want to hunt it, anyways thank you very much for your help!

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Ok so I tryed assist feeding, and he denied the cricket, but when I tryed with a meal worm he ate it, I’m currently feeding him, but he’s being stubborn and is making me feed him with tongs, he didn’t want to hunt it, anyways thank you very much for your help!

Tong feeding is better than no mealworms at all!

Let us help you with supplements.

What powdered supplements have you? Please include brand names and the frequency you use them.

 

[Levi_Wenrich]

I use zoo med repti calcium with D3

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

I use zoo med repti calcium with D3

That's excellent! Thanks.

How about adding Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins without D3 and NOW brand pure calcium for humans? Amazon carries both.

Weekly Schedule 124 for Leopard Geckos 12 months old & under​

Crickets or dubia >> Monday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3
Mealworms >> Tuesday
Crickets or dubia >> Wednesday - lightly dusted with pure precipitated calcium carbonate (Zoo Med's Repti Calcium or NOW human brand calcium) without D3
Crickets or dubia >> Thursday
Crickets or dubia >> Friday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins without D3
Mealworms >> Saturday
No food or free choice >> Sunday

Future weeks:
Continue on since all weeks are identical. . . . . .