UTH Placement

[DrGreatScott]

Temp Regulator

So for Starters, I'd like to introduce myself.

I'm currently a Biology major with a background in Herp care (having both interned at a Zoo, as well as personal pets)

I've used UTHs rather successfully in the past, but I'm re-rigging my Large Wide exo-terra by adding a divider in the middle. I'll be using an acrylic plastic that will be wedged down the middle, just left of the width cross-section.

This will allow me to house my two Geckos of similar size (one is presumably male) without harming the other or over-breeding during the mating season.

Now the issue I usually have with UTHs is where to properly place it. both sides of the tank will contain a minimum of 3 hides, where I will have 2 moist hides (one hot/one cool) and a regular hide.

My current plan involves placing the UTHs (2 total on opposite sides on the enclosure, medium sized for 10-20 gal). As such, I'd like to ensure half of each is covered by their warm moist hides while the remainder portion provides necessary ambient heat.

Now this leaves the the cool hides on the opposite sides of the tank, but I'm still debating how close to move the regular hide to the UTH.

I also have a temp regulator for the pads so they do not overheat. I have sheets of plastic to cover the top if need be for heat loss, but only if it doesn't increase humidity in the process. Usually misting the interior of the hides doesn't change it drastically, but I'm going to keep tabs regardless.

I hope I gave enough info for you to chew on. Have a good one!

***UPDATE***

I have place the UTHs in at opposite ends of the tank, with their length stretching 2-3's of the tank's width, starting at the middle.

Now my only question is where to place the sensor.

Currently, I have it underneath my reptile carpet on top of one of the UTHs. I'm using a temp gun to measure the temps and they look good so far. If I need to move it or shift it slightly, I'm all ears.

I also have the regulator set to fluctuate by 3 degrees on either side of the scale for variation (Central temp set to 87, so it can range from 84-90 at min-max). On that note, I also have a "nighttime mode" so the temp will set itself to 77 with a 3 degree range (74-80 around the hotspots)

 

[acpart]

I would put your probe on top of the reptile carpet since that's where you want the proper heat to be. Otherwise it sounds good. Other options would have been to put a large UTH in the middle of the enclosure so it straddles the divider (making the hot sides adjacent to each other) or using heat cable and configuring it where you want it to be.

Aliza

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Now my only question is where to place the sensor.

Currently, I have it underneath my reptile carpet on top of one of the UTHs. I'm using a temp gun to measure the temps and they look good so far. If I need to move it or shift it slightly, I'm all ears.

I also have the regulator set to fluctuate by 3 degrees on either side of the scale for variation (Central temp set to 87, so it can range from 84-90 at min-max). On that note, I also have a "nighttime mode" so the temp will set itself to 77 with a 3 degree range (74-80 around the hotspots)

Welcome to Geckos Unlimited!

Like Aliza recommends, place the thermostat's sensor right on top of the carpet underneath your leo's warm dry hide.

I suggest setting your thermostat @ 91*F so it varies between 88*F to 94*F.

Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C):

• 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
• no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
• no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the heat mat/UTH on 24/7.

 

[DrGreatScott]

Thanks for such quick responses! I will definitely move the sensor. Now the moist hide the sensor is next to has a closed bottom, so will it still be fine to place it between? Also how do you feel about the nighttime temp settings? I will definitely increase daytime temps. UTH is running 24/7, with a change in temp every 12 hours.

Also, I’m going to need some strong tape for the UTH for when the adhesive wears. I was thinking electrical tape. Thoughts?

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Thanks for such quick responses! I will definitely move the sensor. Now the moist hide the sensor is next to has a closed bottom, so will it still be fine to place it between? Also how do you feel about the nighttime temp settings? I will definitely increase daytime temps. UTH is running 24/7, with a change in temp every 12 hours.

Also, I’m going to need some strong tape for the UTH for when the adhesive wears. I was thinking electrical tape. Thoughts?

You're welcome. Have you a 36 x 18 x 18 Exo Terra right now or some other dimension?

I recommend Nashua tape to keep your UTH flat against the base of the enclosure.

Setting the thermostat @ 91*F (with an approximate 3*F variation) will probably also work for daytime temps. Nighttime temps can dip to 70ish or so and be just fine. Experiment to see whether keeping the sensor between those hides will be sufficient for your needs.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

PS:

It's OK if the moist hide is not quite as warm as the warm dry hide.

 

[DrGreatScott]

I have the 36 x 18 x 18. Also I notice your tag line mentions no calcium dish inside the tank. Can you elaborate on that? I know the usual consensus is “calcium w/o D3”.

Also one of my Leo’s is closer to juvenile while the other is subadult. What’s your typical preference on age ratio for dusting with and w/o D3

On a separate note: I’ve been thinking about a black light fluorescent for nighttime viewing (no heat). Any thoughts/recommendations on a brand that fits the exo-terra

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

I have the 36 x 18 x 18. Also I notice your tag line mentions no calcium dish inside the tank. Can you elaborate on that? I know the usual consensus is “calcium w/o D3”.

Also one of my Leo’s is closer to juvenile while the other is subadult. What’s your typical preference on age ratio for dusting with and w/o D3

On a separate note: I’ve been thinking about a black light fluorescent for nighttime viewing (no heat). Any thoughts/recommendations on a brand that fits the exo-terra

About how old is each gecko? My supplement schedules vary. Check out links 124, 125, and 126 in the Table of Contents in my signature.

Zoo Med's supplements supply all the calcium leos need without leaving any dish out for free access. That's one advantage of using Zoo Med's products. Some keepers believe that leos can self-regulate their supplements. I'd rather lightly dust the prey according to specific schedules. Excessive calcium can coat the digestive tract and impair absorption of other key nutrients.

• For 132 click: Why I use and highly recommend Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 & Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins without D3?

Exo Terra's moonlight incandescent bulbs are good for night viewing. They come in a wide range of wattages. Leos can see moonlight bulbs. I suggest leaving one on only while you're watching them. Slimline fixtures work for 18 inch fluorescent T8s.

You may discover that your leos need some additional overhead heating via Ceramic Heat Emitters during the winter. Inkbird makes a thermostat that can control 2 lights/UTHs each set at the same temperature. If you're interested, I'll copy that part of my care sheet on this thread.

 

[DrGreatScott]

I think I actually have the model you speak of: Inkbird ITC-306 T. (I misspoke about the 3 degree overage, but it usually clocks one degree over set max after it clicks off the UTHs). I’m loving it so far.

Given the 18 in height, what wattage would you recommend for the ceramic? I haven’t used on since I had a beardy years ago in a much shorter cage. And I currently use the ZooMed brand for both Calcium and Reptivite (though I currently have multi-v with d3 and calcium w/o, which I need to change after having read your article).

 

[Sg612]

When we had our leopard gecko, interestingly enough he was more active with the moonlight bulb then when he was in total darkness. It was as if he felt more secure with some light verses none. Just my assumption of course. We would sit very still in total silence and just watch him.:biggrin: I hope more scientific studies (species specific)will be done in the near future. I would like to know if anyone’s Leo did the same?

This is a random video on you tube I found that reminded me of our Leo.

https://youtu.be/oOWaXyWwnt4

DrGreatscott- if you decide to use the moonlight even for a short time please come back and share your observation.

 

[DrGreatScott]

You know, I had 2 Leos prior that did the same thing when moonbulbs were used. I wonder if they’d use the moonlight to hunt in the wild. Kind of like a moth migration during moon cycles. Certainly would help in the lookout for predators with even keener eyesight.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

I think I actually have the model you speak of: Inkbird ITC-306 T. (I misspoke about the 3 degree overage, but it usually clocks one degree over set max after it clicks off the UTHs). I’m loving it so far.

Given the 18 in height, what wattage would you recommend for the ceramic? I haven’t used on since I had a beardy years ago in a much shorter cage. And I currently use the ZooMed brand for both Calcium and Reptivite (though I currently have multi-v with d3 and calcium w/o, which I need to change after having read your article).

Good for you! You may need a 2nd Inkbird if you decide to add CHEs.

It's difficult to recommend a specific CHE wattage. It depends upon ambient room temps as well as distance from leo activity. Start with a 100 watt on a separate thermostat. Exo Terra CHEs aren't reliable. I settled for an All Living Things CHE (Petsmart brand).

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

I have the 36 x 18 x 18. Also I notice your tag line mentions no calcium dish inside the tank. Can you elaborate on that? I know the usual consensus is “calcium w/o D3”.

Also one of my Leo’s is closer to juvenile while the other is subadult. What’s your typical preference on age ratio for dusting with and w/o D3

On a separate note: I’ve been thinking about a black light fluorescent for nighttime viewing (no heat). Any thoughts/recommendations on a brand that fits the exo-terra

Have you seen this link?

Hilde comments: "Excess calcium in the digestive tract can hinder absorption of vitamins A and D".

For 22 click: GU’s Admin Hilde on Calcium, Vitamin A, & D3 Interactions, et cetera: posts 22, 48, 85, ***96: vits + CaCO3***​

 

[DrGreatScott]

I had not seen that one yet. I'm gonna go ahead and remove the excess.

Now I've been doing a lot of research on UVB/UVA and have been considering obtaining one to use for a 10-12 hour cycle during the day. I know they aren't daytime baskers, but I have heard most will simply stick their tails out to absorb the necessary amount and retreat to a dark place, which they have many of.

That being, said, should I stop using the Ca w/ D3 powder in the feedings once a week when I do obtain ?

I know the UVB need/not need debate is ongoing for geckos, but I want to give as much supplementation as naturally as possible so I do not overstimulate.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Have you checked out Arcadia's ShadeDweller lighting? It's available in the USA from Light Your Reptiles. I've not read any reviews.

Light Your Reptiles in USA for Arcadia's lighting including ShadeDweller lighting: 207-588-7210 LightYourReptiles.com​

Fran Baines, DVM (lighting guru too) recommends a backup dose of D3 calcium @ 1 feeding per month when using UVB.

 

[DrGreatScott]

Thanks as always! I found that thread from last year discussing sizes, ranges needed. And since I have a large exo terra with an 18" roof, it would seem my best option is the 36" ZooMed, if I'm not mistaken. Luckily, it looks like they're on sale!

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Thanks as always! I found that thread from last year discussing sizes, ranges needed. And since I have a large exo terra with an 18" roof, it would seem my best option is the 36" ZooMed, if I'm not mistaken. Luckily, it looks like they're on sale!

:banana:

I don't know whether it's best to keep UVB "confined" to the warm end, just in case a gecko wants to avoid UVB at times.

 

[DrGreatScott]

From my understanding, it's more about the distance from the light than it is the area it distributes. So long as there are ample hides and your distance/intensity ratio is on point. I could be wrong though.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Thanks as always! I found that thread from last year discussing sizes, ranges needed. And since I have a large exo terra with an 18" roof, it would seem my best option is the 36" ZooMed, if I'm not mistaken. Luckily, it looks like they're on sale!

From my understanding, it's more about the distance from the light than it is the area it distributes. So long as there are ample hides and your distance/intensity ratio is on point. I could be wrong though.

With most Phelsuma (day geckos), a 36 inch fixture on a 36 inch long enclosure would be ideal with UVB strength dependent upon enclosure height and mesh top.

With crepuscular geckos like leos, the gecko needs to cooperate. Number of hides and ambient temperatures are important. If it's too bright "outside" his hides, a leo may stay hidden.

http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...l-history-biology-eublepharis-macularius.html

 

[DrGreatScott]

As it turns out, ZooMed has a neat little chart that helps with height and type needed per basking type reptile. It would appear the 36" fixture with a 'ReptiSun 5.0 T5 Linear FS5-24' will fit my needs perfectly as I have plenty of hides and an 18" ceiling. It should be noted that it will still remain on a fixated side and not the dead middle of the terrarium roof.

https://zoomed.com/wp-content/uploads/Choosing-Correct-UVB-Lamp-2018-07.pdf