Are my Leopard Geckos overweight?

Rose23

Rose23

New member
Elizabeth Freer said:
Hi Rose ~

When using UVB I think leos need 36 x 18 x 12 inch long enclosures minimum and plenty of hides to dodge UVB rays if necessary. Even when using UVB, veterinarian Fran Baines (lighting guru, too) recommends 1 backup dose of D3 calcium per month.

Which brand UVB bulb are you using now? Are your leos taking advantage of the UVB rays?

Your 2nd leo will be fine without UVB. She will enjoy a 20 long by herself.

May I ask which supplements you use: brand, name, & frequency? They are all different. Your leos may benefit from a slightly different schedule.
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I’m not sure what brand of bulb I am using. I use herptivite by rep-cal as their vitamin and I use repti-calcium with and without D3. I feed them every 3/4 days alternating each supplement between the 3. Ex: Monday- d3 calcium Thursday- calcium Sunday- Vitamin etc. I never really see them out basking in the UVB they typically just walk around to their water dish, and go in their hides.
 
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Rose23 said:
I’m not sure what brand of bulb I am using. I use herptivite by rep-cal as their vitamin and I use repti-calcium with and without D3. I feed them every 3/4 days alternating each supplement between the 3. Ex: Monday- d3 calcium Thursday- calcium Sunday- Vitamin etc. I never really see them out basking in the UVB they typically just walk around to their water dish, and go in their hides.
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How long have you been providing them with UVB? If they don't at least stick some body part out of their hides, they probably aren't getting any benefit from the UVB.

A compact fluorescent bulb? Exo Terra's CF bulbs put out very low UVB from ratings I've seen. :( Zoo Med's Reptisun 5.0 UVB compact fluorescent bulbs put out reliable rays.

Leos really need a wee bit of pre-formed vitamin A acetate (retinol) so they can begin absorbing pro-formed vitamin A (beta carotene). Herptivite only contains beta carotene.

Consider getting Zoo Med's Reptivite without D3 instead of Herptivite right now. Alternate that with Rep-Cal's D3 Calcium. However, both leos would benefit if you also switched to Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3. Rep-Cal's D3 Calcium has 17x more D3 than does Zoo Med's D3 calcium! That's overkill.

Weekly Schedule 126 for Leopard Geckos 18 months old +​
(without UVB)​

  • Crickets or dubia >> Monday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3
  • Crickets or dubia >> Thursday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins without D3
  • Mealworms >> Saturday - no dusting
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As long as Olive and Ren are walking upright (no bellies dragging along the ground) and have no bowed limbs (MBD symptoms), Zoo Med's products will supply ample calcium carbonate when used according to Schedule 126.

I suggest removing the calcium dish too. Hilde says: "Excess calcium in the digestive tract can hinder absorption of vitamins A and D".
 
Rose23

Rose23

New member
Elizabeth Freer said:
How long have you been providing them with UVB? If they don't at least stick some body part out of their hides, they probably aren't getting any benefit from the UVB.

A compact fluorescent bulb? Exo Terra's CF bulbs put out very low UVB from ratings I've seen. :( Zoo Med's Reptisun 5.0 UVB compact fluorescent bulbs put out reliable rays.

Leos really need a wee bit of pre-formed vitamin A acetate (retinol) so they can begin absorbing pro-formed vitamin A (beta carotene). Herptivite only contains beta carotene.

Consider getting Zoo Med's Reptivite without D3 instead of Herptivite right now. Alternate that with Rep-Cal's D3 Calcium. However, both leos would benefit if you also switched to Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3. Rep-Cal's D3 Calcium has 17x more D3 than does Zoo Med's D3 calcium! That's overkill.



As long as Olive and Ren are walking upright (no bellies dragging along the ground) and have no bowed limbs (MBD symptoms), Zoo Med's products will supply ample calcium carbonate when used according to Schedule 126.

I suggest removing the calcium dish too. Hilde says: "Excess calcium in the digestive tract can hinder absorption of vitamins A and D".
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Okay, so I should just remove the UVB? They only rarely stick their tails out of their hides. I will get that vitamin you suggested. So I won’t need to use the plain calcium with the new feeding schedule you suggested? Just the one with d3 and the new vitamin? I’ll remove the dish of extra calcium. Also my Geckos won’t go after mealworms, they used to but I think they lost interest. What would I feed them on Saturdays instead? Thanks!
 
Seth9999

Seth9999

New member
Hello, lots stuff more nutritious than mealy worms. Crickets or go to. Especially if you gut load them, with fruit and vegetables. I feed them grounded up adult bearded dragon food , collard greens and fruit. Around clock.
Dubi roches or full of good stuff . Also soft and juicy.
Theirs horn worms, witch order them small, they grow fast. Phoenix worms or full calcium used along side staple diet of roches and crickets.
Theirs imported butter worms as treats, silk worms when available. Then you got super worms, witch I feed when their multing or baby worms.
If you catch mealy worms starting to transform into beetles. Right at beginning their white as white and really soft. Might be fating tho. Knot sure on that.
 
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Rose23 said:
Okay, so I should just remove the UVB? They only rarely stick their tails out of their hides. I will get that vitamin you suggested. So I won’t need to use the plain calcium with the new feeding schedule you suggested? Just the one with d3 and the new vitamin? I’ll remove the dish of extra calcium. Also my Geckos won’t go after mealworms, they used to but I think they lost interest. What would I feed them on Saturdays instead? Thanks!
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I'd remove the UVB and depend upon powdered supplements as Schedule 126 shows.

Since Olive and Ren are older and healthy, they really don't need more calcium carbonate than is in Zoo Med's supplements, especially in Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3.

Just use the one with d3 and the new vitamin. If you want to max out shipping, also order Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 (instead of Rep-Cal's calcium with D3) + Zoo Med's Adult Beardie Food to feed the insects and worms 24/7.
91IdS7rL7tL._SL1500_.jpg​

I order all three from:

On Saturdays try some other feeder like Seth suggests.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Here's a good chart for additional foods to offer bugs and worms.

"A commercial gutloading food like Bug Burger or Superload (both by Repashy), Cricket Crack, Dinofuel, etc. is going to make your life easier AND provide a nutritious diet to your crickets at the same time. Avoid Fluker's gutloads, as they are super feeble in their formulas."

"If you opt for making your own gutload at home, here is a list of great ingredients to use:
Best: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion flowers & leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress, and alfalfa.
Good: sweet potato, carrots, oranges, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy, and green beans.
Dry food: bee pollen, organic non-salted sunflower seeds, spirulina, dried seaweed, flax seed, and organic non-salted almonds.
Avoid as much as possible: potatoes, cabbage, iceberg lettuce, romaine lettuce, spinach, broccoli, tomatoes, corn, grains, beans, oats, bread, cereal, meat, eggs, dog food, cat food, fish food, canned or dead insects, vertebrates."
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Rose23

Rose23

New member
Elizabeth Freer said:
I'd remove the UVB and depend upon powdered supplements as Schedule 126 shows.

Since Olive and Ren are older and healthy, they really don't need more calcium carbonate than is in Zoo Med's supplements, especially in Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3.

Just use the one with d3 and the new vitamin. If you want to max out shipping, also order Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 (instead of Rep-Cal's calcium with D3) + Zoo Med's Adult Beardie Food to feed the insects and worms 24/7.

I order all three from:


On Saturdays try some other feeder like Seth suggests.
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Thank you so much for all the help! I’ve ordered the vitamin and everything else I need for my new set up for Olive. I should hopefully have her in her new setup tank by next Saturday!
 
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Rose23 said:
Thank you so much for all the help! I’ve ordered the vitamin and everything else I need for my new set up for Olive. I should hopefully have her in her new setup tank by next Saturday!
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You're welcome, Rose. I hope Olive and Ren live long, healthy, lives.

In Europe there's a retired breeder female leopard gecko who's in her mid-30s right now!
 
Rose23

Rose23

New member
Elizabeth Freer said:
You're welcome, Rose. I hope Olive and Ren live long, healthy, lives.

In Europe there's a retired breeder female leopard gecko who's in her mid-30s right now!
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Thank you so much! That’s amazing! I’m about to sanitize my extra 20 gallon long tank which held a hamster a few months ago. Spraying down with hydrogen peroxide, letting it sit of an hour, and then rinsing well followed by wiping down with Wipe Out. Is this a safe choice to remove any remaining reminants from the rodent cage cleaner? This is my last question, I just wanna make sure I can do everything I can to ensure Olive and Ren’s safety. Thank you so much!
 
S

Sg612

Member
Rose23 said:
Thank you so much! That’s amazing! I’m about to sanitize my extra 20 gallon long tank which held a hamster a few months ago. Spraying down with hydrogen peroxide, letting it sit of an hour, and then rinsing well followed by wiping down with Wipe Out. Is this a safe choice to remove any remaining reminants from the rodent cage cleaner? This is my last question, I just wanna make sure I can do everything I can to ensure Olive and Ren’s safety. Thank you so much!
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There’s no need for the Wipe out. First make sure all debris is removed by scrubbing with a brush and mild soap. Let it dry, then spray the tank completely with the hydrogen peroxide. Let it sit for an hour or even better 24 hours. then rinse thoroughly and allow to dry.

https://www.education.nh.gov/instruction/school_health/documents/disinfectants.pdf

https://www.cdc.gov/infectioncontrol/guidelines/disinfection/disinfection-methods/chemical.html
 
S

Sg612

Member
Sg612 said:
There’s no need for the Wipe out. First make sure all debris is removed by scrubbing with a brush and mild soap. Let it dry, then spray the tank completely with the hydrogen peroxide. Let it sit for an hour or even better 24 hours. then rinse thoroughly and allow to dry.

https://www.education.nh.gov/instruction/school_health/documents/disinfectants.pdf

https://www.cdc.gov/infectioncontrol/guidelines/disinfection/disinfection-methods/chemical.html
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I like to leave it longer, that’s just me :)

https://juniperpublishers.com/jdvs/pdf/JDVS.MS.ID.555718.pdf

Hydrogen peroxide is a less toxic alternative to ammonia. The concentration of hydrogen peroxide,however, needs to be at least 6% to effectively inactivate cryptosporidium oocyst.
 
Rose23

Rose23

New member
Sg612 said:
I like to leave it longer, that’s just me :)

https://juniperpublishers.com/jdvs/pdf/JDVS.MS.ID.555718.pdf

Hydrogen peroxide is a less toxic alternative to ammonia. The concentration of hydrogen peroxide,however, needs to be at least 6% to effectively inactivate cryptosporidium oocyst.
Click to expand...
Okay thanks for the help! I’m struggling to find an affordable 6% hydrogen peroxide online. Does this work:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047W7MIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WofACbHYRCPCC
I’m not sure what the “20 Vols” means.
 
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