Preparing for first leo

[Vox]

Hello everyone! I've spent a few weeks researching and getting ready for my upcoming gecko, and I want to make sure I have everything right. I am a little worried about temps. I have a glass Exo-Terra tank, 25"x18"x12". My heat mat is an 8"x12" iPower with included thermostat. Ground temperature in the hot hide is 92F, humid hide is 72, and cool hide is 70. The humidity in the tank is 38-44% as measured by an Acu-Rite thermometer/hygrometer combo that stands in the tank. Ambient air temperature on the cool side is about 69.

I have a fake plant, a fake cactus, an extra cork bark hide, and I'm ordering a background for the terrarium to reduce stress and minimize my new friend seeing their reflection. I also have vitamins and calcium supplements. But I'm afraid my temperatures on the cool side are too low.

Could I be having issues because my tank is only 25" long instead of the usual 30"? I want to make sure my husbandry is correct before I order my new friend. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Edited to add I am using ceramic tile as a substrate with a nice rough texture.

 

[Geecko123]

70 is perfect!!! you should put your humid hide more to the warm side so it's about 87-88, tile is amazing to!! your tank sounds PERFECT!!! your leopard gecko will be VERY lucky.:biggrin:

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Hello everyone! I've spent a few weeks researching and getting ready for my upcoming gecko, and I want to make sure I have everything right. I am a little worried about temps. I have a glass Exo-Terra tank, 25"x18"x12". My heat mat is an 8"x12" iPower with included thermostat. Ground temperature in the hot hide is 92F, humid hide is 72, and cool hide is 70. The humidity in the tank is 38-44% as measured by an Acu-Rite thermometer/hygrometer combo that stands in the tank. Ambient air temperature on the cool side is about 69.

I have a fake plant, a fake cactus, an extra cork bark hide, and I'm ordering a background for the terrarium to reduce stress and minimize my new friend seeing their reflection. I also have vitamins and calcium supplements. But I'm afraid my temperatures on the cool side are too low.

Could I be having issues because my tank is only 25" long instead of the usual 30"? I want to make sure my husbandry is correct before I order my new friend. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Edited to add I am using ceramic tile as a substrate with a nice rough texture.

Welcome to Geckos Unlimited!

You're almost ready! Is your new background something like a cling-on vinyl photo? If it's 3-D, it will compete with important space in your Exo Terra.

The humid hide also goes on the warm side just like Geecko123 mentions. That's so a leo does not catch a respiratory tract infection.

Your 8 x 12 heat mat is the problem. It's too small. I highly recommend an 11 x 17 inch Ultratherm instead. That will give ample space to put a dry hide and a humid hide right on top of it.

Place the 17 inch length along the 18 inch Exo Terra width. Measure the Exo Terra first to see how close to 18 inches you have. The heat mat edges can be slid a little under the plastic frame.

A larger heat mat could also increase the humidity some. That's beneficial.

Which supplements do you have: brand and name? They are all different.

Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C):

• 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
• no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
• no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the heat mat/UTH on 24/7. At night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C).

 

[Vox]

70 is perfect!!! you should put your humid hide more to the warm side so it's about 87-88, tile is amazing to!! your tank sounds PERFECT!!! your leopard gecko will be VERY lucky.:biggrin:

Thank you for your reassurance! I'm excited to get my first pet reptile but I want to make sure it's happy and healthy. I will definitely move over the humid hide.

 

[Vox]

Thank you for the warm welcome, Elizabeth! Luckily my new background is a cling for the outside of the tank. The terrarium did come with a 3-D background that was pretty nifty, but I took it out right away because as you said, it takes up valuable real estate.

Thank you for the info on the heat mat. I did a quick search for the Ultratherm you mentioned, and it sounds like a great product, but I'm not seeing any sellers that have it in stock. Do you have another recommended brand you trust with the same 11"x17" dimensions?

As for the supplements, I have NOW brand calcium without D3, Rep-Cal Herptivite Multivitamins, and Fluker's Repta Calcium with D3. I think I remember reading about other supplements you can mix together and use with every feeding, but I thought rotating the three different ones might be simpler for a novice like myself.

Also, while I think about it, I notice in your profile it says no supplements inside the vivarium. Is that to prevent overdosing? I've read a lot of different care sheets and some recommend putting calcium without D3 in the tank at all times. Thank you for all the help!

 

[Sg612]

Hello everyone! I've spent a few weeks researching and getting ready for my upcoming gecko, and I want to make sure I have everything right. I am a little worried about temps. I have a glass Exo-Terra tank, 25"x18"x12". My heat mat is an 8"x12" iPower with included thermostat. Ground temperature in the hot hide is 92F, humid hide is 72, and cool hide is 70. The humidity in the tank is 38-44% as measured by an Acu-Rite thermometer/hygrometer combo that stands in the tank. Ambient air temperature on the cool side is about 69.

I have a fake plant, a fake cactus, an extra cork bark hide, and I'm ordering a background for the terrarium to reduce stress and minimize my new friend seeing their reflection. I also have vitamins and calcium supplements. But I'm afraid my temperatures on the cool side are too low.

Could I be having issues because my tank is only 25" long instead of the usual 30"? I want to make sure my husbandry is correct before I order my new friend. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Edited to add I am using ceramic tile as a substrate with a nice rough texture.

Did you just purchase the Exo-Terra tank, 25"x18"x12"? If so your Leo would be much better off if you exchange it for the 36x18x18. Trust me, you will thank me in the long run;-). The temps won’t be a problem as it is likely to be in only 25 inches wide.

 

[Sg612]

What is the ambient temp on the warm end? Test about 2 inches about the warm hide. If it’s too cool your Leo will be inactive and will be more prone to obesity. Daytime cool end should be more like 75f.

 

[Vox]

Did you just purchase the Exo-Terra tank, 25"x18"x12"? If so your Leo would be much better off if you exchange it for the 36x18x18. Trust me, you will thank me in the long run;-). The temps won’t be a problem as it is likely to be in only 25 inches wide.

Yeah, I was a bit worried about the temperature gradient in the tank, but I bought it on somewhat of an impulse because I found a great deal on it. I heard most people prefer a 30" or 36" inch long tank for leos, but unfortunately with my room the 25" long is about the best I can do right now. My hamster is in a 40 gallon long, so perhaps when he goes to the big hamster house in the sky, I could set my leo up with a longer tank on the hamster's table.

The ambient temp on the warm end is 77. Elizabeth up above recommended a larger heat mat, maybe I will try that to get things just right. Thank you for your help!

 

[Sg612]

Yeah, I was a bit worried about the temperature gradient in the tank, but I bought it on somewhat of an impulse because I found a great deal on it. I heard most people prefer a 30" or 36" inch long tank for leos, but unfortunately with my room the 25" long is about the best I can do right now. My hamster is in a 40 gallon long, so perhaps when he goes to the big hamster house in the sky, I could set my leo up with a longer tank on the hamster's table.

The ambient temp on the warm end is 77. Elizabeth up above recommended a larger heat mat, maybe I will try that to get things just right. Thank you for your help!

You’re welcome. You can always make upgrades later

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Thank you for the warm welcome, Elizabeth! Luckily my new background is a cling for the outside of the tank. The terrarium did come with a 3-D background that was pretty nifty, but I took it out right away because as you said, it takes up valuable real estate.

Thank you for the info on the heat mat. I did a quick search for the Ultratherm you mentioned, and it sounds like a great product, but I'm not seeing any sellers that have it in stock. Do you have another recommended brand you trust with the same 11"x17" dimensions?

As for the supplements, I have NOW brand calcium without D3, Rep-Cal Herptivite Multivitamins, and Fluker's Repta Calcium with D3. I think I remember reading about other supplements you can mix together and use with every feeding, but I thought rotating the three different ones might be simpler for a novice like myself.

Also, while I think about it, I notice in your profile it says no supplements inside the vivarium. Is that to prevent overdosing? I've read a lot of different care sheets and some recommend putting calcium without D3 in the tank at all times. Thank you for all the help!

You are welcome!

I found an 11 x 17 Ultratherm heat mat for you. BeanFarm.com @ 877-708-5882 has them in stock for $26. Open Mon - Fri 9-5 Pacific time. Let them know your plan to place it underneath your 24 x 18 x 12 Exo Terra. Snugly attach it with Nashua tape rolls and strips. Have exact measurements when you phone. Ask whether it's OK to trim the edges a little (if necessary) and what their return policy is. You could also use heat cables to cover the same area.

For 73 click: How to configure heat cables?......kholtme -- Aug 2015 with link​

Fluker's also makes an 11 x 17, but Ultratherm comes with high recommendations from a fellow geckophile. She has never had an Ultratherm fail. She uses Ultratherms all the time. Ultratherms (and Fluker's) are reusable.

About no calcium dish in the enclosure. Yes, it's to prevent overdosing. Hilde says that: "Excess calcium in the digestive tract can hinder absorption of vitamins A and D".

For 22 click: GU’s Admin Hilde on Calcium, Vitamin A, & D3 Interactions, et cetera: posts 22, 48, 85, ***96: vits + CaCO3***​

Here are some links about calcium with D3 and multivitamins. Please note the differences in ingredients. I use and highly recommend:

• Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3
• Zoo Med's Reptivite without D3
• NOW brand pure calcium carbonate

• For 24 click: Calcium powders with D3: Zoo Med, Rep-Cal, Fluker, Exo Terra, + others
• For 77 click: Gecko Multivitamins

 

[Vox]

I've ordered the Ultratherm but I am still waiting for it to arrive. Than you for the suggestion, and the information about supplements.

If I can keep adding to this conversation, I wanted to get your input on something else. While I am still getting everything set up, I saw a baby albino leopard gecko in a local pet store. I feel so bad for the little guy because he only has one hide, a bright light for heat, crickets running free in the cage .. clearly, not an ideal situation. So my question is, do you think I'd be okay rescuing this little one, seeing as it would be my first reptile? I really feel for him, but I'm worried he might be a challenge if he's been in a bad situation for a while. Thanks for any input.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

I've ordered the Ultratherm but I am still waiting for it to arrive. Than you for the suggestion, and the information about supplements.

If I can keep adding to this conversation, I wanted to get your input on something else. While I am still getting everything set up, I saw a baby albino leopard gecko in a local pet store. I feel so bad for the little guy because he only has one hide, a bright light for heat, crickets running free in the cage .. clearly, not an ideal situation. So my question is, do you think I'd be okay rescuing this little one, seeing as it would be my first reptile? I really feel for him, but I'm worried he might be a challenge if he's been in a bad situation for a while. Thanks for any input.

You're welcome.

Please snap a picture of the albino leo so we can sorta judge his condition. As tempting as it may be, we can't save them all. If you know the clerks/manager, you might tactfully suggest better care for that albino. Tread carefully.

I recommend keeping a healthy leo as your first reptile.

 

[Geecko123]

My first and only gecko was also in a small cage with pretty much the same things except there were not crickets. He is now 8 1/2 inches and still growing. unfortunatly most petstores put them in small terrarium so that people can see them better. Look for bright eyes and clear sinuses. Ask to hold him/her, you want to see an active aware gecko, not one thats hardly moving or has trouble moving. Last, look for hard firm bones. If they feel spongy then it could mean it has calcium deficiency. which could lead to MBD ( metabolic bone disease ) . As Elizabeth said a pic would help.

 

[Vox]

You're welcome.

Please snap a picture of the albino leo so we can sorta judge his condition. As tempting as it may be, we can't save them all. If you know the clerks/manager, you might tactfully suggest better care for that albino. Tread carefully.

I recommend keeping a healthy leo as your first reptile.

I'm not sure if the image worked or not, and it's a bit of a poor quality photo. As you can see, one of the geckos lost part of its tail, and it seemed to be a somewhat fresh wound. The employees didn't know the age of the geckos, but said they've had them for three weeks, and their "supplier" works with several different breeders. They said that the geckos are eating well. They did seem somewhat active; when the worker removed their hide, they seemed like they were expecting a meal, so at least they have that going for them. When the worker put back the hide, one of them nipped at the other, maybe trying to compete for the hiding space? Their eyes seemed fairly alert and they seem to have most of their toes, if not all.

Edited to add that they are maybe three inches long or so, maybe less, it's hard to say. And the employee said they've grown already since they've had them.

 

[Vox]

My first and only gecko was also in a small cage with pretty much the same things except there were not crickets. He is now 8 1/2 inches and still growing. unfortunatly most petstores put them in small terrarium so that people can see them better. Look for bright eyes and clear sinuses. Ask to hold him/her, you want to see an active aware gecko, not one thats hardly moving or has trouble moving. Last, look for hard firm bones. If they feel spongy then it could mean it has calcium deficiency. which could lead to MBD ( metabolic bone disease ) . As Elizabeth said a pic would help.

I posted a picture of the geckos; funnily enough I didn't even know there was a second one in the tank the other day because it was hiding. I will have to go back to the shop at some point and try holding them, that's a good idea. I'm glad to hear your gecko is doing so well! It does make me sad seeing them in poor conditions, but it's also heartening to know how resilient they are. Hopefully with yours and Elizabeth's help I can decide if I should rescue one of them or order from a reputable online breeder. Thanks for the input!

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

View attachment 46968

I'm not sure if the image worked or not, and it's a bit of a poor quality photo. As you can see, one of the geckos lost part of its tail, and it seemed to be a somewhat fresh wound. The employees didn't know the age of the geckos, but said they've had them for three weeks, and their "supplier" works with several different breeders. They said that the geckos are eating well. They did seem somewhat active; when the worker removed their hide, they seemed like they were expecting a meal, so at least they have that going for them. When the worker put back the hide, one of them nipped at the other, maybe trying to compete for the hiding space? Their eyes seemed fairly alert and they seem to have most of their toes, if not all.

Edited to add that they are maybe three inches long or so, maybe less, it's hard to say. And the employee said they've grown already since they've had them.

I see 2 leos! One is missing part of it's tail.

As you mention they could be competing for their hide. :idea:: If they both are males they'll know their sex before we do. Even if both are females, there could be aggression between them.

Have you done any research on caring for albinos? They are sensitive to bright lights.

 

[Vox]

I see 2 leos! One is missing part of it's tail.

As you mention they could be competing for their hide. :idea:: If they both are males they'll know their sex before we do. Even if both are females, there could be aggression between them.

Have you done any research on caring for albinos? They are sensitive to bright lights.

I have read some information on caring for albinos. I have heard that they don't like bright lights and coming out to eat during the day because of their sensitivity. I do leave my blinds open during the day to have a natural photoperiod for my hamster and arachnids, since they are also nocturnal/crepuscular and need that noticeable demarcation between night and day.

I am thinking maybe I got a bit too anxious and overly excited about saving that baby albino. Perhaps a more bold and older non-albino specimen from Geckoboa would be a better choice. There's a lot to consider, and I don't want to be too hasty. Though I am eager to start caring for one of these adorable little guys and gals.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

I have read some information on caring for albinos. I have heard that they don't like bright lights and coming out to eat during the day because of their sensitivity. I do leave my blinds open during the day to have a natural photoperiod for my hamster and arachnids, since they are also nocturnal/crepuscular and need that noticeable demarcation between night and day.

I am thinking maybe I got a bit too anxious and overly excited about saving that baby albino. Perhaps a more bold and older non-albino specimen from Geckoboa would be a better choice. There's a lot to consider, and I don't want to be too hasty. Though I am eager to start caring for one of these adorable little guys and gals.

I agree that a bolder, non-albino, leo will be a better choice. Well-kept leos can reach their 20s. There's even a retired breeder female in Europe who's now in her mid-30s!

There are many details at first. Once your leo is happy, you'll be good to go. Get the largest enclosure you can afford right from the geck-go. A minimum 20 long: 30 x 12 x 12 inches tall with an 11 x 17 inch Ultratherm heat mat is what I recommend. Have it all set up with good heating. Then bring your leo home.

Reptile shows are good places to see potential leos and speak directly with the breeders.

 

[Geopard Lecko]

I have read some information on caring for albinos. I have heard that they don't like bright lights and coming out to eat during the day because of their sensitivity. I do leave my blinds open during the day to have a natural photoperiod for my hamster and arachnids, since they are also nocturnal/crepuscular and need that noticeable demarcation between night and day.

I am thinking maybe I got a bit too anxious and overly excited about saving that baby albino. Perhaps a more bold and older non-albino specimen from Geckoboa would be a better choice. There's a lot to consider, and I don't want to be too hasty. Though I am eager to start caring for one of these adorable little guys and gals.

geckoboa has some SWEET geckos lemme tell ya.. oh and theres a pet only/adoption page too, not very many and some have defects but they are still gorgeous and deserve a good home. oh and very affordable!

 

[adewey]

The cool side in my leopard geckos enclosure is around 74 degrees. The warm side is around 87ish. Its important for your gecko to be able to alternate between a cool and warm side so that they can maintain a healthy body temperature. If your gecko tends to stay on the cooler side, then the warmer side may be to warm. Vice-versa.