Newbie with ALL the questions

desert_rat

New member
Elizabeth, that makes a lot of sense and is very helpful! Air temp 4 inches above warm side as per analog is right about 83 with just the heat pad. I only have one analog right now so I'll get another one and keep track of both ends of the tank.

I kept saying rheostat but I'm a moron and I DID order a thermostat with probe. It'll be here tomorrow thankfully so hopefully then I will get a much more accurate reading of the warm hide temp. When I turned off the CHE, I think the moist hide cooled off too much for his liking and he went back to his dry warm hide. I keep putting out fresh meal worms hoping he'll go to them.
 

desert_rat

New member
Exactly, he would be avoiding the warm spot. He would not sit there to roast. You need a reliable thermometer. The analog reading may be off.


I ordered one with a probe and it will be here tomorrow! This little guy really has me so confused.
 

Sg612

Member
I ordered one with a probe and it will be here tomorrow! This little guy really has me so confused.
Some Leos like it hotter than others. And if he’s not well for some reason, he may seek even higher temps than normal. This is another reason why a larger enclosure is best. It will allow you to provide more options. They do not all thrive under the same temp.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Elizabeth, that makes a lot of sense and is very helpful! Air temp 4 inches above warm side as per analog is right about 83 with just the heat pad. I only have one analog right now so I'll get another one and keep track of both ends of the tank.

I kept saying rheostat but I'm a moron and I DID order a thermostat with probe. It'll be here tomorrow thankfully so hopefully then I will get a much more accurate reading of the warm hide temp. When I turned off the CHE, I think the moist hide cooled off too much for his liking and he went back to his dry warm hide. I keep putting out fresh meal worms hoping he'll go to them.
Thermoregulating is a GOOD thing. :cheer: for your little leo!

With everything on again, off again, at who knows what temps your leo won't have a stable environment. It takes stability for a leo to feel comfortable and eat. It takes warm temps for a leo to digest his prey.

Don't buy another analog. Get an accurate digital thermometer with a probe like I mentioned in the last post. Tape both probes together to verify each reading.
 
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desert_rat

New member
Thermoregulating is a GOOD thing. :cheer: for your little leo!

With everything on again, off again, at who knows what temps your leo won't have a stable environment. It takes stability for a leo to feel comfortable and eat. It takes warm temps for a leo to digest his prey.

Don't buy another analog. Get an accurate digital thermometer with a probe like I mentioned in the last post. Tape both probes together to verify each reading.


I ordered it. :)

I know, I feel bad for bouncing him around so much. I just am so confused lol. I want him to be okay.
 

desert_rat

New member
Have you been turning off the CHE at night? Where was he hanging out at night?

Yes, CHE on during the day and off at night. Ambient temperature hovers around 74 at night, 85 during the day. Should I keep doing that you think? He has the option of the cool hide that he doesn't ever use for any length of time.

And no idea.... He really doesn't come out for the first couple hours the light is off it seems, and I go to bed. I really have only seen him out first thing in the morning after the light has been on for about 30 minutes. Everytime I've checked he's been in the warm hide. Except for when I had the UVB, which I'm putting back out tomorrow. He never lingers anywhere but the warm hide otherwise though. Just makes a round and then goes back in.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
I'm removing the CHE altogether until I get a thermostat set up. The air temps of ~70 seemed too cool but evidently I'm highly underestimating the heat of the UTH. You'd think if it was too hot in there, that he would have went to the cooler hide?

Have you been turning off the CHE at night? Where was he hanging out at night?

Yes, CHE on during the day and off at night. Ambient temperature hovers around 74 at night, 85 during the day. Should I keep doing that you think? He has the option of the cool hide that he doesn't ever use for any length of time.

And no idea.... He really doesn't come out for the first couple hours the light is off it seems, and I go to bed. I really have only seen him out first thing in the morning after the light has been on for about 30 minutes. Everytime I've checked he's been in the warm hide. Except for when I had the UVB, which I'm putting back out tomorrow. He never lingers anywhere but the warm hide otherwise though. Just makes a round and then goes back in.

in a 10 gallon terrarium currently

My head is spinning regarding the CHE! (And soon Zoo Med's 5.0 UVB.) Please update all temps after your thermostat and digital thermometer are set up. Wait for several hours till the readings have stabilized. :)

How do you think your leo feels? It's no wonder he's not eating!

IMO a 10 gallon doesn't provide near enough wiggle room to use any strength UVB at all.

Did you order the mini compact UVB?

All this would be so much easier if you can upgrade to a 20 long (30 x 12 x 12 inches) right away.
  1. Let's stabilize the heat
  2. Upgrade to a 20 long
  3. Upgrade to a 11 x 17 inch Ultratherm heat mat. That will NOT be overkill. A couple days ago the Bean Farm had Ultratherms in stock.
  4. Restabilize the heat
  5. Then add Zoo Med's Reptisun mini compact 5.0 UVB inside a Fluker's 10 inch diameter dome over the warm end
 
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desert_rat

New member
My head is spinning regarding the CHE! (And soon Zoo Med's 5.0 UVB.) Please update all temps after your thermostat and digital thermometer are set up. Wait for several hours till the readings have stabilized. :)

How do you think your leo feels? It's no wonder he's not eating!

IMO a 10 gallon doesn't provide near enough wiggle room to use any strength UVB at all.

Did you order the mini compact UVB?

All this would be so much easier if you can upgrade to a 20 long (30 x 12 x 12 inches) right away.
  1. Let's stabilize the heat
  2. Upgrade to a 20 long
  3. Upgrade to a 11 x 17 inch Ultratherm heat mat. That will NOT be overkill. A couple days ago the Bean Farm had Ultratherms in stock.
  4. Restabilize the heat
  5. Then add Zoo Med's Reptisun mini compact 5.0 UVB inside a Fluker's 10 inch diameter dome over the warm end


With all due respect, I've already spent a good penny getting this set up and I've bought everything recommended already. I really can't keep throwing dollars around everytime someone makes a different recommendation lol. But I do understand what you're saying.

I really still do not understand the UVB issue if there are plenty of hides that he spends his time in anyway. Completely dark hides. I DID order the mini compac one. To me, the fact that he was basking within one hour of having the UVB tells me he NEEDS it. And since he isn't eating, that's the only way for him to get it. .

And I don't feel the heat had been jumping THAT much? I had the CHE on during the day and not at night. Everything I read said to do that, mimics nighttime temps? Once I realized how hot it was in the hide , I am not using the CHE until I get the thermostat in. That's really all that's changed.

I'll upgrade to a bigger tank and mat in the future but to be frank, I cannot do so a week after investing in the set up I already have. And I can't imagine that it would make that big of a difference in him eating or not because I understand a lot of people start baby geckos in 10 gallons? It may not be IDEAL but again, I can't imagine he wouldn't eat because of it.

I'm only putting about 6 meal worms in the dish at once. Does he know they're there you think?

I'm sorry if I snapped a little bit, I really do value all of your help, I'm just frustrated because I feel like I keep being told to buy this and that, and I've literally bought five new things as per your recommendations, but now there's more. And maybe he just isn't well? I don't think it's an UNSUITABLE habitat, and there IS plenty of difference from one side of the tank in other in temp.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
With all due respect, I've already spent a good penny getting this set up and I've bought everything recommended already. I really can't keep throwing dollars around everytime someone makes a different recommendation lol. But I do understand what you're saying.

I understand, really. Leos are affected by daytime brightness, because they are crepuscular by nature. Leos are also sensitive to heat and do best when they can depend primarily upon belly heat. Some keepers feel that overhead heat can dry out the air too much and cause health problems. Many leos go their entire lives having only belly heat. I think some overhead heat increases leo activity. If overhead heat is controlled by a separate thermostat, it provides a toasty environment. :) That means 2 separate thermostats, because each thermostat would be set at different temperatures.

I really still do not understand the UVB issue if there are plenty of hides that he spends his time in anyway. Completely dark hides. I DID order the mini compac one. To me, the fact that he was basking within one hour of having the UVB tells me he NEEDS it. And since he isn't eating, that's the only way for him to get it.

In post 5 (and subsequent posts) I suggested that you wait for UVB until you upgrade. Part of this has to do with Ferguson Zones (distance from and strength of) UVB. It's kinda difficult to do all you're attempting within a 10 gallon.

Click: https://zoomed.com/wp-content/uploads/Choosing-Correct-UVB-Lamp-2018-07.pdf

Please remove the 10.0 UVB.
I literally returned it over lunch. Your explanation about size of the habitat makes sense! I'll go to a 2.0 or 5.0 UVB when I am able to give him a bigger home.

And I don't feel the heat had been jumping THAT much? I had the CHE on during the day and not at night. Everything I read said to do that, mimics nighttime temps? Once I realized how hot it was in the hide , I am not using the CHE until I get the thermostat in. That's really all that's changed.

Temperature in the warm dry hide is 96. Much too warm huh?
My thought was since 96 is too warm, just maybe he was basking on the log under the 10.0 UVB to get some belly heat. I could be totally wrong.​

I'll upgrade to a bigger tank and mat in the future but to be frank, I cannot do so a week after investing in the set up I already have. And I can't imagine that it would make that big of a difference in him eating or not because I understand a lot of people start baby geckos in 10 gallons? It may not be IDEAL but again, I can't imagine he wouldn't eat because of it.

I'm only putting about 6 meal worms in the dish at once. Does he know they're there you think?

I don't know.​

I'm sorry if I snapped a little bit, I really do value all of your help, I'm just frustrated because I feel like I keep being told to buy this and that, and I've literally bought five new things as per your recommendations, but now there's more. And maybe he just isn't well? I don't think it's an UNSUITABLE habitat, and there IS plenty of difference from one side of the tank in other in temp.

I'm very sorry issues have become complicated. We've been offering suggestions to help your leo feel like eating. However, we've been going about that differently. Leos are quite sensitive to changing environments. That's why a leo in changed surroundings usually explores everything every time something changes. Then a leo hides and may only come out to eat.

I understand that your leo was basking under the 10.0 UVB and that it's the only way he could get vitamin D3 without eating. My thought has been that maybe belly temp measurements might be off, because many analog thermometers have reputations that way. Again, I might be totally wrong.​

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

About eating ~ Some pet stores carry Repashy's Grub Pie. That's a powdered all-in-one food that's mixed with water. Maybe he'd accept some of that if you're worried he's not feeling well.

My thought is to go back to basics first. When more than one thing changes, it's difficult to tell what works and what doesn't.
10 gallon + bellly heat from your 6 x 8 inch heat mat alone first​
 
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Sg612

Member
Since I posted this yesterday, I had to go to PetCo for chews for my dogs and I went ahead and picked up a ReptiSun 10.0 UVB light. And actually I've seen him bathing in it twice already, once this morning, which I've heard some are wont to do. He's actually active first thing in the morning after I turn his light on.


Is the UVB in the dome located in the center?
 

Geopard Lecko

New member
i've read thru and i could be blind but i didnt see you mention trying crickets? one of my leos just doesnt like mealworms unless you get it really wiggling on the tons an stick it right in front of him. crickets on the other hand he demolishes.
 

Sg612

Member
i've read thru and i could be blind but i didnt see you mention trying crickets? one of my leos just doesnt like mealworms unless you get it really wiggling on the tons an stick it right in front of him. crickets on the other hand he demolishes.

Post#1, Paragraph 9

I AM using Reptivite with D3 on food (crickets and mealworms, though he hasn't shown any interest in the crickets yet)


It’s okay(it’s not that your blind), I think most of us have to read through the post several times:)
 

Geopard Lecko

New member
Doh, there it is! yeah sometimes i just dont see stuff even if i'm lookin for it. it took my male a week to start eating when i got him, tho my female we got at the same time ate that nite.
 

desert_rat

New member
I'm very sorry issues have become complicated. We've been offering suggestions to help your leo feel like eating. However, we've been going about that differently. Leos are quite sensitive to changing environments. That's why a leo in changed surroundings usually explores everything every time something changes. Then a leo hides and may only come out to eat.

I understand that your leo was basking under the 10.0 UVB and that it's the only way he could get vitamin D3 without eating. My thought has been that maybe belly temp measurements might be off, because many analog thermometers have reputations that way. Again, I might be totally wrong. [/INDENT]

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

About eating ~ Some pet stores carry Repashy's Grub Pie. That's a powdered all-in-one food that's mixed with water. Maybe he'd accept some of that if you're worried he's not feeling well.

My thought is to go back to basics first. When more than one thing changes, it's difficult to tell what works and what doesn't.
10 gallon + bellly heat from your 6 x 8 inch heat mat alone first​


You also may be totally right! He has been out when I use the UVB and not when I use a regular light but that could be totally coincidental.

My thermostat and thermometer get here tomorrow so hopefully we can put an end to the temperature confusion soon.

I did go back to Petco and the one girl is really knowledgeable and kind. She recommended Reptiboost, which you wet with water and can syringe feed him, they use it on ill reptiles to give them an energy boost and get something in their system. They didn't have any in stock but she had some in the back and put it in a baggie for me and gave me a tiny syringe also. I think I may try that tonight since it's been over a week since he's had food. She said if he doesn't improve, I can take him in to them and they'll take him to the vet. I just hate to put him through all of that.
 

desert_rat

New member
Since I posted this yesterday, I had to go to PetCo for chews for my dogs and I went ahead and picked up a ReptiSun 10.0 UVB light. And actually I've seen him bathing in it twice already, once this morning, which I've heard some are wont to do. He's actually active first thing in the morning after I turn his light on.


Is the UVB in the dome located in the center?


No I have it off to one side of the tank.
 

Sg612

Member
Since I posted this yesterday, I had to go to PetCo for chews for my dogs and I went ahead and picked up a ReptiSun 10.0 UVB light. And actually I've seen him bathing in it twice already, once this morning, which I've heard some are wont to do. He's actually active first thing in the morning after I turn his light on.


Is the UVB in the dome located in the center?

Try dangling a undusted cricket in front of the hide he is in to see if he reacts. Just to rule out the problem isn’t the taste of the supplement. I have had problems in the past with geckos not liking the Reptivite.
 
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