yellow urate?

[clavicusvile]

I have an ~6 month old female leo. i was checking up on her when i saw one very normal poop, and another with a half white/half yellow urate. i see lots of different explanations on the internet but i need to know if i should be worried or if i need to take her into a vet. she eats 5-7 crickets every other day (m, w, f, and a small meal sat) i dust monday and wed with zoomed reptical and friday w zoomed reptivite, sat i dont dust. yesterday i gave her a few superworms for the first time and she took them well. she also shed last night. she always has enough clean dechlorinated water and her enclosure is heated properly. she has never had this happen before im attatching some photos below of her normal poop vs her yellow urate poop

 

[Sl7therin]

It could possibly be because the gecko didn’t drink a lot of water. If this continues, I would begin to question taking the gecko to the vet. If this is a one-time thing and doesn’t happen again, it could have been merely a lack of water before the poop.

 

[clavicusvile]

that's what i'm hoping! thank you

 

[lukef]

My girl ALWAYS has slightly discolored urate after eating her shed, like clockwork! I wouldn't worry unless it continues.

 

[clavicusvile]

I was thinking it might have had to do with her shed! thank you!

 

[adewey]

Has it just been once, or is it all the time now? An occassional yellow-ish urate is nothing to be alarmed about, but if it is constant and really yellow a vet trip and fecal would be in order.

 

[clavicusvile]

this is the only time she's had a urate like this

 

[JocelynC26]

My leopard gecko pooped and passed some uric acid like 2 hours ago and her poop had some muscous on it and she seems to have two different urates one more yellow and longer (seems to be old?) and one that has more white on it. She just shed on the 31st and fully finished taking off the remnants on the 1st. I'm thinking she might just be dehydrated as her crickets have not been getting much water and therfore might be affecting her. Let me know your opinions please.

Thanks

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

View attachment 48373View attachment 48374
My leopard gecko pooped and passed some uric acid like 2 hours ago and her poop had some muscous on it and she seems to have two different urates one more yellow and longer (seems to be old?) and one that has more white on it. She just shed on the 31st and fully finished taking off the remnants on the 1st. I'm thinking she might just be dehydrated as her crickets have not been getting much water and therfore might be affecting her. Let me know your opinions please.

Thanks

Your photos may show an abnormal feces. I see a white urate and a feces with mucus. I don't know what that yellowish part is.

How long have you had this leo?

What are you feeding your leo? What exact brand, type, and frequency do you use powdered supplements? What do you feed the bugs and worms?

Please share your warm end ground temps inside the warm dry hide, inside the warm moist hide, and the cool end ground. Are you meeting these temps as measured by the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun?

Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C):

• Warm end ground temperature: 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) inside a leo's warm dry hide and his moist hide too!
• Cool end ground temperature: 70ish-75 F (21.1-23.9 C) Usually the cool end ground temperature matches the room temperature where the enclosure sits.
• no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches (10 cm) above ground on the warm end
• no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches (10 cm) above ground on the cool end

Leave the heat mat/UTH on 24/7. If you wish, during the night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C).

 

[JocelynC26]

I've had her for about 6 months now, she was gifted to me by my professor so I'm not sure how old she is but only know that shes an adult female. I currently feed her large crickets and dust them with calcium (zoo med calcium w/o D3) 3 feeds and 1 feed vitamins (rep-cal srp00300 herptivite multivitamin and mineral powder. I feed her every 2-3 days about 10 crickets depending on how many she will take from me. I feed the crickets the fluckers orange complete diet cubes and the fluckers cricket quencher. I used to give her meal worms but noticed that it was harder for her to digest them because of their hard exoskeleton in comparison to the crickets.
My warm ground temp is btwn 86-90 F. Her moist hide im not sure what temp it is. I simply have a coconut filled with moss that i spritz water with. She usually goes in there when shes about to shed and when shes done shedding she will spend the day there.
cool end hide temp is a little higher than 75. It could be higher due to us amping up the heater in our house. I tend to turn off the heating mat at night just to imitate outside temperatures, it will usually drop the lowest to 68 F. I have a digital thermostat controller measuring the temps of the tank.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

I've had her for about 6 months now, she was gifted to me by my professor so I'm not sure how old she is but only know that shes an adult female. I currently feed her large crickets and dust them with calcium (zoo med calcium w/o D3) 3 feeds and 1 feed vitamins (rep-cal srp00300 herptivite multivitamin and mineral powder. I feed her every 2-3 days about 10 crickets depending on how many she will take from me. I feed the crickets the fluckers orange complete diet cubes and the fluckers cricket quencher. I used to give her meal worms but noticed that it was harder for her to digest them because of their hard exoskeleton in comparison to the crickets.
My warm ground temp is btwn 86-90 F. Her moist hide im not sure what temp it is. I simply have a coconut filled with moss that i spritz water with. She usually goes in there when shes about to shed and when shes done shedding she will spend the day there.
cool end hide temp is a little higher than 75. It could be higher due to us amping up the heater in our house. I tend to turn off the heating mat at night just to imitate outside temperatures, it will usually drop the lowest to 68 F. I have a digital thermostat controller measuring the temps of the tank.

Please share a photo and her total length. If you have a weight, please share that too.

I highly recommend raising the warm end temp to 88-92*F during the day. Keeping her warm moist hide on the warm end helps too.

Is your "digital thermostat controller" actually a thermostat or a rheostat? Does it shut off the heat mat when temps exceed a certain pre-set temp? If so, it can automatically be timed to turn off at night. An inexpensive analog timer will do the trick.

You mention Zoo Med's Repti Calcium (plain - no D3) and Rep-Cal's Herptivite. Are you dusting with any vitamin D3 source?

Fluker's Orange Cubes contain very little protein, et cetera. Crickets need some dry diet with a better mix of ingredients. Geckos, too, are what they eat. I use finely ground Zoo Med's Natural ADULT Bearded Dragon Food for my crickets. The crickets just about lick their plates. Professional Reptiles' Pro Gutload mix is good and inexpensivel

Adult leos can easily be kept healthy on 2 feedings per week. Schedule 126 is a good one to follow.

Weekly Schedule 126 for Leopard Geckos 18 months old +​

(withOUT UVB)​

Early stage metabolic bone disease (MBD) problems include uneven (lopsided) gait, bowed limbs, belly dragging, and an underbite.

• Crickets or dubia >> Monday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3
• Crickets or dubia >> Thursday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins withOUT D3
• Optional: Mealworms or Black Soldier Fly Larvae (Phoenix worms) >> Saturday - no dusting