Providing uvb - how to supplement??

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
What temperature should I set the deep heat projector at? It’s getting around 68 - 70 degrees at night currently.

thank you so much you have helped me a lot and i didnt even notice it said kg thats my mistake, im very confident giving d3 with uvb now specifcally zoomeds i just had read the label wrong, and yeah i meant for when hes using uvb,

so should i just keep dhp on 78 at night and day?
i also have zoo meds digital hygrometer and i have a temp gun

You are very welcome. Little by little Frankie's needs should become less complicated. :) Did you buy a 50 watt or an 80 watt DHP?

Nope. Frankie will benefit from a diurnal variation: somewhat warmer temps during his days. 68*F is good for the night temperature.

Keep Frankie's DHP ON for 10 hours; OFF for 14 hours.

Spray his enclosure at night. Let his enclosure "dry" out during the day.
 
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Frankiesmoma

New member
You are very welcome. Little by little Frankie's needs should become less complicated. :) Did you buy a 50 watt or an 80 watt DHP?

Nope. Frankie will benefit from a diurnal variation: somewhat warmer temps during his days. 68*F is good for the night temperature.

Keep Frankie's DHP ON for 10 hours; OFF for 14 hours.

Spray his enclosure at night. Let his enclosure "dry" out during the day.

It’s the 50w! Thank you again,

Sorry to bother with more stuff but I’ve been overthinking about the repashy calcium plus usage

My vet had told me to sprinkle calcium d3 powder on his food 3x a week so I did with his Pangea and with his insects, I had specifically asked her before I didnt anything if repashy calcium plus was okay because it also has vitamins in it, and she said yes, now he got that 3x a week this past 3 weeks, and now I called her and she tells me I shouldn’t use that I should use zoomeds calcium with just d3, so now I m just paranoid because I’m thinking although I didn’t give a very large amount just a sprinkle in the food and light dusting on bugs, I’m paranoid about the vit a content and all that is that too much, as well as the vit d.. should I hold off on using reptivite for a little?
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
It’s the 50w! Thank you again,

Sorry to bother with more stuff but I’ve been overthinking about the repashy calcium plus usage

My vet had told me to sprinkle calcium d3 powder on his food 3x a week so I did with his Pangea and with his insects, I had specifically asked her before I didnt anything if repashy calcium plus was okay because it also has vitamins in it, and she said yes, now he got that 3x a week this past 3 weeks, and now I called her and she tells me I shouldn’t use that I should use zoomeds calcium with just d3, so now I m just paranoid because I’m thinking although I didn’t give a very large amount just a sprinkle in the food and light dusting on bugs, I’m paranoid about the vit a content and all that is that too much, as well as the vit d.. should I hold off on using reptivite for a little?

Unless Frankie's behavior changed recently he scarcely ate much Pangea at all. So that was mainly a light dusting of Pangea on his bugs @ 1 feeding per week for the past 3 weeks! That's the currently recommended schedule. Just withhold Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins withOUT D3 for 1 week or 2 weeks at most.

That "extra" D3 is nothing to worry about.

Don't withhold Repti Calcium with D3 or Repti Calcium withOUT D3. Frankie needs BOTH those to recover his stick 100%.

What does your Zoo Med's digital hygrometer read at noon & after apraying at night?
 
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Frankiesmoma

New member
Unless Frankie's behavior changed recently he scarcely ate much Pangea at all. So that was mainly a light dusting of Pangea on his bugs @ 1 feeding per week for the past 3 weeks! That's the currently recommended schedule. Just withhold Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins withOUT D3 for 1 week or 2 weeks at most.

That "extra" D3 is nothing to worry about.

Don't withhold Repti Calcium with D3 or Repti Calcium withOUT D3. Frankie needs BOTH those to recover his stick 100%.

What does your Zoo Med's digital hygrometer read at noon & after apraying at night?

Ok thank you so much:)

The hygrometer reads 71 during day this past week it’s usually like 74 buts it’s been so much colder this week and the humidity goes to 50 - 60 % , then at night right after I spray the humidity thing says 99% but then goes down within like 30 minutes to about 80% - 85% and the temp is 68, I’m having a hard time holding humidity in the tank.
The thermostat for the DHP just shipped out it’s far too cold so he definitely needs it.

What’s the different between 50 watt and 80 watt? Since the enclosure is decently large 24 x 18 x 24 I planned on putting the DHP on one corner of the cage and then the uvb right next to it on the other corner, and then the jungle dawn will go in the middle, still debating if the DHP and uvb should go front or back but I’ll see after it’s planted and built, everything is still on its way for the enclosure, I feel really satisfied with all the plants and wood I picked out and excited for the build.

Since the DHP is such a smaller corner of the cage do you think it would be okay to leave it on all the time though just so he can get warm if he wants? Since it’s a dimming thermostat I got I don’t think it will overload the DHP so it would be fine to leave it on most of the time in winter maybe? During summer I probably won’t use it since it gets so hot, the thermostat has safety settings too it will go off if it gets too hot or believe

Yeah I plan on taking a break from vitamins for like 2 weeks, I’m no longer worried abt the d3 he got but still feel unsettled about the vitamin a but, I hope I did no harm, I only sprinkled like such a tiny tiny amount in the Pangea and I actually did force feed him , by that I mean tricking him into thinking the Pangea was an insect so he would eat it, I just waved it around on a little stick, but he’s officially stopped falling for my games, won’t eat any Pangea, also he lost his appetite this week cause of the cold, I’m gonna have to get a heater for my room I think.

Thing is, his last shed was a week ago, he has consistently for months shed every 2-3 weeks, so this morning I checked on him everything was fine, then I came back after I slept for what I believe was another hour or two and he was still in the same sleeping position I left him so I’m so very highly doubtful he had just shed then, especially since he never sheds 1 week apart from his last. Anyway, I had noticed he had what looks exactly like stuck shed on one of his crest on his lower back and I noticed all of the crest all along the bottom near the base of tail all have flaky skin on them, like a thin layer you can tell wants to come off, and if I rub them with a wet qtip with some effort, it’s like pretty stuck, skin will come off the crest but it’s not like normal stuck shed or anything and I’m certain he did not do a full body shed last night so I’m very confused at what that is?
Could it be because of the cold? Or it’s too humid in his enclosure? Not humid enough? Too many vitamins? I feel concerned, I know I should just worry about the bones right now but that confused me and I can’t find anything on that like why would a gecko have skin shedding off like that?
 
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Frankiesmoma

New member
Unless Frankie's behavior changed recently he scarcely ate much Pangea at all. So that was mainly a light dusting of Pangea on his bugs @ 1 feeding per week for the past 3 weeks! That's the currently recommended schedule. Just withhold Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins withOUT D3 for 1 week or 2 weeks at most.

That "extra" D3 is nothing to worry about.

Don't withhold Repti Calcium with D3 or Repti Calcium withOUT D3. Frankie needs BOTH those to recover his stick 100%.

What does your Zoo Med's digital hygrometer read at noon & after apraying at night?

Update yeah I’m not exactly sure what was wrong with the crest but I know repashy calcium plus uses beta carotene which excess of that is excreted so I think we are good, sorry about that, also good news I saw him sticking just now, he was only slightly sliding but it wasn’t as bad as before, can’t wait for the reptivite and calcium without d3 to come in it just shipped


Also I bought the 5’5 Arcadia clamp lamp dome for the DHP so that means it will cover an even smaller area im gonna put a branch near the heat he can get on to
 
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Frankiesmoma

New member
Update yeah I’m not exactly sure what was wrong with the crest but I know repashy calcium plus uses beta carotene which excess of that is excreted so I think we are good, sorry about that, also good news I saw him sticking just now, he was only slightly sliding but it wasn’t as bad as before, can’t wait for the reptivite and calcium without d3 to come in it just shipped


Also I bought the 5’5 Arcadia clamp lamp dome for the DHP so that means it will cover an even smaller area im gonna put a branch near the heat he can get on to

Ok update he was sticking all over his enclosure! His grip could maybe be slightly tighter but he’s doing great! First time in 2 months he stuck like that, also
His crests are for whatever reason shedding (his pinning ) not really sure why it could be possible he never shed there last shed? I have no clue, maybe he’s gonna shed soon and they are like prematurely shedding on the crest for whatever odd reason Idk, he’s doing really good tonight though! Or uh maybe he actually did shed this morning? And he just has stuck shed there, it’s weird and I never saw that before but, it’s possible since he’s sticking super well right now, not just that but even his past sheds recently he wasn’t even able to stick like he is right now



Side note- since his last shed a week ago it seems like he has a scratch or stuck shed on his very outer eyelid on his right eye, I can only see it in a bright lighting and specific angle but I noticed do you think that will heal? Maybe he scratch his eye a little on something or shed is stuck on the eyelid, do they shed eyelids..?
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Ok update he was sticking all over his enclosure! His grip could maybe be slightly tighter but he’s doing great! First time in 2 months he stuck like that, also
His crests are for whatever reason shedding (his pinning ) not really sure why it could be possible he never shed there last shed? I have no clue, maybe he’s gonna shed soon and they are like prematurely shedding on the crest for whatever odd reason Idk, he’s doing really good tonight though! Or uh maybe he actually did shed this morning? And he just has stuck shed there, it’s weird and I never saw that before but, it’s possible since he’s sticking super well right now, not just that but even his past sheds recently he wasn’t even able to stick like he is right now



Side note- since his last shed a week ago it seems like he has a scratch or stuck shed on his very outer eyelid on his right eye, I can only see it in a bright lighting and specific angle but I noticed do you think that will heal? Maybe he scratch his eye a little on something or shed is stuck on the eyelid, do they shed eyelids..?
Hurrah for Frankie! Congratulations! You, Frankie, and his vet have successfully recovered maybe 99% of his stick. Do you think he almost has 100% stick?

Regarding Frankie's right eye.
Crested geckos do not have eyelids. Instead, a transparent scale, or spectacle, keeps each eye moist, and the geckos use their tongues to clear away debris.

If Frankie ever leaves behind a head shed, you'll be able to see his clear spectacles.

Here's a remedy for eyeball scratches.
  1. Make or buy normal saline OR use contact lens Wetting Solution (NOT contact lens Cleaning Solution). Just Google for the recipe.
  2. Fill a small squeeze bottle with normal saline.
  3. Gently flush Frankie's right eye with normal saline solution several times each day.

The only difference between 50 watt & 80 watt DHPs = 30 watts.

I'm wondering why -- with a 24 x 18 x 24 inch enclosure, you got a tiny 5.5 inch Arcadia clamp lamp for the DHP. I agree to keep Frankie's heat to one side. What about an 8.5 inch dome fixture instead of the 5.5 inch fixture?
 
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Frankiesmoma

New member
Hurrah for Frankie! Congratulations! You, Frankie, and his vet have successfully recovered maybe 99% of his stick. Do you think he almost has 100% stick?

Regarding Frankie's right eye.


If Frankie ever leaves behind a head shed, you'll be able to see his clear spectacles.



The only difference between 50 watt & 80 watt DHPs = 30 watts.

I'm wondering why -- with a 24 x 18 x 24 inch enclosure, you got a tiny 5.5 inch Arcadia clamp lamp for the DHP. I agree to keep Frankie's heat to one side. What about an 8.5 inch dome fixture instead of the 5.5 inch fixture?



A YouTube I watch used a 5.5 for the same enclosure side just in one corner and it was cheaper but I can return it and get an 8.5 petsmart had many -

His stick is like 90% recovered he still can’t stick to some surfaces though but maybe no gecko can like I tested to see if he can stick on my wood bed frame and he couldn’t and my wall but like, maybe the material is just too slippery in general, should I continue with the bugs 3x a week? Well, when should I ever reintroduce cgd and how should I do it, I’m gonna try different brands and see what he likes
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Are you currently using a feeding dish for Frankie's bugs & worms? I use sturdy 10 ounce bar glasses for many of my geckos' bugs. I don't know whether Frankie would prefer a wider glass or plastic bug container.

Because it seems like Frankie will have adequate cooler areas within his 24 x 18 x 24 inch high enclosure, I suggest buying an 8.5 inch Fluker's dome instead of the 5.5 inch dome. These days many domes are coated inside with aluminum-like paint. That's what you want. Older style Fluker's domes were coated with white paint.

flukerslampdimmable8.jpg


All Pangea diets are complete diets with ideal amounts of vitamin D3 and other vitamins. That means NO other supplements should be given. How are you reconciling this when Arcadia's 12 inch ShadeDweller UVB with fixture also provides ALL required D3? To me this sounds like a duplication of vitamin D3.

Have you found other crested gecko keepers who use Pangea complete diets + the 12 inch Shadedweller UVB?
 
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Frankiesmoma

New member
Are you currently using a feeding dish for Frankie's bugs & worms? I use sturdy 10 ounce bar glasses for many of my geckos' bugs. I don't know whether Frankie would prefer a wider glass or plastic bug container.

Because it seems like Frankie will have adequate cooler areas within his 24 x 18 x 24 inch high enclosure, I suggest buying an 8.5 inch Fluker's dome instead of the 5.5 inch dome. These days many domes are coated inside with aluminum-like paint. That's what you want. Older style Fluker's domes were coated with white paint.



All Pangea diets are complete diets with ideal amounts of vitamin D3 and other vitamins. That means NO other supplements should be given. How are you reconciling this when Arcadia's 12 inch ShadeDweller UVB with fixture also provides ALL required D3? To me this sounds like a duplication of vitamin D3.

Have you found other crested gecko keepers who use Pangea complete diets + the 12 inch Shadedweller UVB?


I’ve spoke people who use uvb and they still feed Pangea and repashy just fine because it’s a fixed amount of d3 is those things , it’s pretty low, and they just don’t dust bugs with d3 and if they do only like once a month,

The calcium without d3 and reptivite without d3 have arrived today so if I start feeding cgd again how exactly should I go about the multivitamin and all?


I’m getting kinda confused again haha, since his stick is returning I figured I don’t have to do strictly bug anymore ?


(Same shadedweller yes)

And you tuber I like @lepoard gecko has a chahouoa (idk how to spell) and they feed them Pangea and use the same shadedweller


So now should I even use the reptivite??


I usually put him a container with the bugs I give him or Tong feed
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
I planned on putting the DHP on one corner of the cage and then the uvb right next to it on the other corner, and then the jungle dawn will go in the middle, still debating if the DHP and uvb should go front or back but I’ll see after it’s planted and built, everything is still on its way for the enclosure, I feel really satisfied with all the plants and wood I picked out and excited for the build.

Here's the required order along the screen top either from left to right or from right to left:
  1. First Frankie's DHP
  2. Then Arcadia's UVB ShadeDweller
  3. Then the LED for plants
The DHP & the ShadeDweller should sit side-by-side!



I’ve spoke people who use uvb and they still feed Pangea and repashy just fine because it’s a fixed amount of d3 is those things , it’s pretty low, and they just don’t dust bugs with d3 and if they do only like once a month,
OK

The calcium without d3 and reptivite without d3 have arrived today so if I start feeding cgd again how exactly should I go about the multivitamin and all?

  1. For Frankie's well-being please continue being patient.
  2. Frankie's nowhere near ready for another cgd trial. Frankie's already given a pretty definite "No!" to cgd. It hasn't been long enough since he turned up his nose. :(
  3. I highly recommend NOT attempting cgd until Frankie has adjusted to his huge new home with all the trimmings. That means:
  4. Let Frankie totally recover his stick! Frankie will be unable to fully enjoy his huge enclosure until he can totally stick! [A couple minutes ago I gave my much older crestie a "stick" test. He has no trouble sticking & climbing my wooden closet doors. He has no trouble sticking & climbing my lightly textured bedroom walls.]
  5. Let Frankie complete ALL his liquid calcium glubionate.
  6. Let Frankie reach 110% and be comfortable in his new enclosure prior to experimenting with cgd again.
  7. Follow Frankie's total bug diet with all recommended supplements -- one of two schedules you screenshot on your phone. IF you can't find the schedule on your phone, please scroll back on this thread to my post.
  8. At this time Frankie still needs supplementing with all 3 Zoo Med's supplements you now have. :)
  9. Frankie might enjoy climbing brown textured Exo Terra Jungle Vines. Try twisting a thick vine with a thin vine.
    exo-terra-jungle-vines-p210-421_image.jpg
    (click to enlarge)

I’m getting kinda confused again haha, since his stick is returning I figured I don’t have to do strictly bug anymore ?
That isn't true.
Am I confusing you?



(Same shadedweller yes)

And you tuber I like @lepoard gecko has a chahouoa (idk how to spell) and they feed them Pangea and use the same shadedweller
Please copy & paste one of [MENTION=12507]leopard gecko[/MENTION]'s YouTube videos right here.


So now should I even use the reptivite??
Reptivite could be more beneficial to Frankie than Repashy's Calcium Plus according to Scott Stahl, DVM, on link 132. See above.


I usually put him a container with the bugs I give him or Tong feed.
Feeding containers let a gecko be more independent while eating.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
The hygrometer reads 71 during day this past week it’s usually like 74 buts it’s been so much colder this week and the humidity goes to 50 - 60 % , then at night right after I spray the humidity thing says 99% but then goes down within like 30 minutes to about 80% - 85% and the temp is 68, I’m having a hard time holding humidity in the tank.
The thermostat for the DHP just shipped out it’s far too cold so he definitely needs it.

IF maintaining a decent ambient humidity during days is difficult, consider adding 2-3 inches of hydroton clay culture balls/marbles for the "floor" of Frankie's 24 x 18 x 24 inch enclosure. Water these marbles occasionally when the humidity drops.
a17fdf95718bfb34dc3940d7da1edd8d--hydroponic-gardening-gardening-tools.jpg 51rAMtToonL._AC_.jpg bbliaperl1 (1).gif
(click to enlarge)​

Separate these marbles from your next substrate layer with fine netting or Easy Growers' Weedblock Cloth.
61wc7jB45NL._SL1500_.jpg pACE-955230dt.jpg

To increase ambient humidity, just add water. Don't add water IF the humidity is fine.
 
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