Rare sighting

jinete

New member
image.jpg... kind of. My new leopard gecko (had him for 2 weeks) has been hanging out in his hides pretty much not stop while he gets acclimated. I have barely seen him as he doesn't just wander around in the evenings or at night. He hasn't really eaten anything yet which has had me a little concerned. He is in the middle of a shed right now. Well this evening I noticed he was "out". That seems like a big deal for me. You can probably barely make him out hiding in the left of the screen behind the humid hide and up against the glass. Probably trying to work off that shed.
 

jinete

New member
Lol. My wife didn't see him either. I have isolated him. All you see is his head. There is a reflection of him in the glass. You can see his eye and the nose is facing down. You still may not see it. Lol. image.jpg
 

jinete

New member
OK. Here is Pongo in all his glory. Shedding is just about done except for the top of his head. Reminds me of Jim Carrey in Mask.

IMG_4010.jpg
 

jinete

New member
He still has the shed on top of his head. He hasn't really eaten anything in the 2 1/2 weeks since I've had him. That still has me a bit concerned.
 

hmarie186

New member
You may need to help him get it off. A qtip dipped in water and rubbed against the skin will help loosen it.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
How long has it been since you've made ANY cage adjustments?

For Pongo's stuck head shed try Methods 1 or 3...especially Method #3:

:)#4---Humidity Chamber Assists for Stuck Shed: Leopard Geckos & Crested Geckos
Be sure to monitor your gecko at all times during these procedures.

Place your gecko in a Humidity Chamber for an hour or so to loosen stuck shed on eyes, toes, and/or body.

If the eyes have retained shed, gently flush them with a normal saline solution. Fill a small squeeze bottle with a contact lens wetting solution such as Blink for Contacts NOT a contact lens CLEANER. Aim the flow towards the eyes. Alternatively, saturate a small sterile gauze pad with normal saline. Gently hold this against the eyes for several minutes.

If these methods are ineffective or if there is any sign of infection, prompt vet attention is necessary!

METHOD #1:
Temperatures no greater than 86*F/30*C, a leopard gecko's preferred body temperature.
Take a plastic container a little bigger than your gecko
Poke breathing holes in the lid so that your gecko can breathe
Place a dampened paper towel or washcloth on the bottom of this container
Add a rough rock or piece of cork bark
Spray the insides of this container
Add the gecko
Snap on the lid
Place this container near a lamp (or other low heat source) using a low wattage bulb (15 watt or 25 watt incandescent bulb or similar wattage compact fluorescent) to further increase humidity
Monitor the temperature frequently
Monitor your gecko at all times

After an hour or two, perhaps longer, remove the gecko and gently attempt to remove the stuck shed using a gentle rolling motion with a wet q-tip.

Some folks place this covered container containing the leopard gecko into shallow warm water to generate the desired humidity.

Depending upon the amount of retained shed, this procedure may need to be repeated on several successive days.


METHOD #2:
Use water at about 86*F/30*C, a leopard gecko's preferred body temperature.
Fill a shallow basin or the bathroom sink with lukewarm water to your gecko's belly depth.
Let your gecko soak for about 20 minutes.
Then take a wet q-tip, and with a gentle rolling motion, work on the toes. Use tweezers gently.
This should definitely loosen any shed remaining on the critter's toes.


METHOD #3:
Wrap the gecko in a wet washcloth with just the snout and eyes visible.
Firmly hold gecko in place for 15-20 minutes. Remove wrap.
Test the skin gently to see whether it has loosened up enough for removal.
If not, try wrapping again for another 15 minutes.
 
Last edited:

jinete

New member
How long has it been since you've made ANY cage adjustments?

For Pongo's stuck head shed try Methods 1 or 3...especially Method #3:

:)#4---Humidity Chamber Assists for Stuck Shed: Leopard Geckos & Crested Geckos
Be sure to monitor your gecko at all times during these procedures.

Place your gecko in a Humidity Chamber for an hour or so to loosen stuck shed on eyes, toes, and/or body.

If the eyes have retained shed, gently flush them with a normal saline solution. Fill a small squeeze bottle with a contact lens wetting solution such as Blink for Contacts NOT a contact lens CLEANER. Aim the flow towards the eyes. Alternatively, saturate a small sterile gauze pad with normal saline. Gently hold this against the eyes for several minutes.

If these methods are ineffective or if there is any sign of infection, prompt vet attention is necessary!

METHOD #1:
Temperatures no greater than 86*F/30*C, a leopard gecko's preferred body temperature.
Take a plastic container a little bigger than your gecko
Poke breathing holes in the lid so that your gecko can breathe
Place a dampened paper towel or washcloth on the bottom of this container
Add a rough rock or piece of cork bark
Spray the insides of this container
Add the gecko
Snap on the lid
Place this container near a lamp (or other low heat source) using a low wattage bulb (15 watt or 25 watt incandescent bulb or similar wattage compact fluorescent) to further increase humidity
Monitor the temperature frequently
Monitor your gecko at all times

After an hour or two, perhaps longer, remove the gecko and gently attempt to remove the stuck shed using a gentle rolling motion with a wet q-tip.

Some folks place this covered container containing the leopard gecko into shallow warm water to generate the desired humidity.

Depending upon the amount of retained shed, this procedure may need to be repeated on several successive days.


METHOD #2:
Use water at about 86*F/30*C, a leopard gecko's preferred body temperature.
Fill a shallow basin or the bathroom sink with lukewarm water to your gecko's belly depth.
Let your gecko soak for about 20 minutes.
Then take a wet q-tip, and with a gentle rolling motion, work on the toes. Use tweezers gently.
This should definitely loosen any shed remaining on the critter's toes.


METHOD #3:
Wrap the gecko in a wet washcloth with just the snout and eyes visible.
Firmly hold gecko in place for 15-20 minutes. Remove wrap.
Test the skin gently to see whether it has loosened up enough for removal.
If not, try wrapping again for another 15 minutes.

It has probably been a good week or so without making any adjustments to the cage layout itself. Maybe longer. The hides have been in the same exact spots. It's the temperatures that I have been dabbing with. Still trying to get those "right".

This is what's going on. The ambient temperature currently is about 72 degrees in the middle of the night. 75 degrees in the morning (right now at 10:30am) and then pushing 80 at the warmest part of the day. The ground temps just above the heating pad under the dry hide are high 80's at night (88-89) and during the day 90-92 degrees during the day. The heating pad will turn off at 92 degrees. Here's the issue. If I use the CHE to bring up the ambient temps, the CHE along with the heat pad brings up the substrate temp to 100+ (not so much in the hides but the area in between the hides). I appreciate all of your help.

With my diurnal lizards I can see them basking, eating, shedding, moving around, etc. I can keep their heat up with big bright spotlights and UVB and I can visually see that they are ok. With my leopard gecko it is a little more difficult when I can't see him, don't want to bother him, don't see him eating, am trying not to stress him out, have to worry about ground temps and keep bright lights down, etc. In the process I am stressing myself out (and probably my wife and kids lol).
 
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