I believe my gecko is dying..

[Elizabeth Freer]

Would I have to feed my wax worms fruits for now while I wait for the silkworms and hornworms to arrive?

Also, I couldn't get them an UTH, I didn't have another $40+ to spend.

The reason waxworms are very unhealthy is that they are pure fat! :-( Please don't give either of your leopard geckos any more waxworms! OK?

Be sure to read my Hornworm Guidelines or very soon they will grow too big for your leos.

We are trying to help you help your leos. Leos can live way beyond 10 years old if they have proper care.

Let us help you feed the crickets and mealworms healthier diets.

Did you buy a digital thermometer with a probe today?

 

[LostTogether]

Wax worms are all I can give them for now until the new worms arrive. My Juvenile even ignored the mealworms. I couldn't make myself buy them crickets. I wouldn't be able to get myself to break off their back legs. :\

As for Porkchop, how will I get him to open his mouth to eat, or at least increase his appetite?

And yes, I did buy one digital thermometer with a probe. I'm not buying another one until I go back there next. On the warm side, the thermometer is reading 94F. The wire to the thermometer will not burn, right?

Edit: I took him out to soak earlier. What I've been noticing that is when he's outside of the cage, he seems more active. He walks around and tries to climb the box-barrier I have around him. He must also not like me kissing his head because he almost flew out of my hands :shock:

I also have another question: Can I use one of my past gecko's shelter homes in Porkchop's tank for the humid hide? I rinsed it out in the tub and scrubbed it also.

 

[Yuk]

What about trying the crickets without breaking their legs off just for some nutrition while waiting on the worms? You can stick some shredded veggies in with them and let them eat for a day before feeding them to the gecko. They might be interested in the movement. Just a suggestion

 

[LostTogether]

I've tried crickets before. When Porkchop's vision was still good, he never chased after prey. He looks at it, and that's about it. I feel like he's going blind or something. He doesn't react when I put my finger in front of either of his eyes and he doesn't even notice/look at his prey anymore.

Oh! One more thing I forgot to mention: In my first post, I kept mentioning daily that his left eye was always closed and he barely would open his eye. Both eyes are shut now, but his right eye looks normal when he opens it once in a while. The left eye though that he barely has opened in the past month looks really cloudy to the point I can barely even see his pupil. I took a picture of his good eye and the bad eye. If anyone wants to check it out, let me know so I can upload it.

 

[Completeleopard]

Hello and a warm welcome to GU.

I would recommend you take this Leo to a reptile vet again, if you think the medication isn't working tell them that, there are other medications they can prescribe to try to help. The sinking of the eyes is usually dehydration, so her hydration levels need to be checked before trying to feed him anything, by feeding him whilst he's dehydrated, it will only make things worst. Tell your vet how he also has stopped eating.

 

[JIMI]

I'm sorry about your leos. It seems that you have had some real bad luck. It is sad that they are passing soquickly. Maybe we can help you keep this last leo from suffering the same fate.

Hopefully you can get that UTH soon. The UTH and the thermostat are really necessities not options. Without proper belly heat (it should be around 90 degrees) they will not be able to properly digest their food. Sometimes using a heat lamp to heat the floor will just cause the air temps to reach dangerous levels which will cause serious damage. It should not exceed 85 on the warm side. Is 94 the temperature of the floor? It is a little bit too high so when you get the thermostat set it to 90.

Read through this caresheet. It contains a lot of valuable information that will help you keep your leos healthy: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/gecko-care-sheets/55211-leopard-gecko-caresheet-eublepharis-macularius-demo-video-4-jan-2013-update.html

Which supplements do you have? What UVB bulb are you using? The fact that even your healthy leo is refusing meals is not a good sign.

That container will be fine, but make sure to really disinfect it. A regular tupperware box, ziploc container, yougert container, etc is fine as well.

Haha kissing your leo is not a very good idea. Since he is ill it is also best to leave him be and reduce the amount of stress in his environment. Only take him out when you really have to.

 

[LostTogether]

I have the probe two inches away from the bottom of the tank. Should I put it all the way onto the bottom of the tank? I kinda feel like this thermometer doesn't really work. I've had the heat lamp off with only my UBV lamp on for about 20+ minutes and the thermometer is still reading around 84F.

For the supplements, you mean like calcium powder, correct? Before I had Exo Terra Calcium + D3, but today while I was out, I bought normal Exo Terra Calcium powder.
The UVB light is a 26W ReptiGlo 2.0 UVB bulb (Exo Terra). UVB was recommended when my first leo died. The vet said while she had an egg inside her, she couldn't digest the calcium she was getting, so she stopped eating.
The healthy leo is eating his wax worms though, just not the mealworms. I believe he likes crickets though and will actually chase after them. Each feeding I give the Juvenile 3 wax worms and 2 meal worms.

I'll just find a plastic container then so I don't risk it.

When I take him out for about an hour each day is when I soak him for 10 minutes and give him his eye medicine and every other day his liquid vitamin. This is probably weird, but, I always kiss his nose because one of his black patches is shaped like a heart and I kiss it to give him good luck.

I have a question about the moss; I'm wondering if it's the right kind I can use for them. The petstore that I went to didn't have the Spaghnum(?) moss that you recommended. The one I got is called "All Living Things: Green Moss". Terrarium bedding provides comfort and shelter for frogs, snakes, and tropical lizards. Also helps maintain humidity levels. Is this a good kind to use for the Leos?

Another EDIT: How much moss should I put in the container?
And I'm a bit worried about if he tries and eats the moss. Well him or the female, Apple.

And since dehydration could cause his appetite to lessen, how do I hydrate him fully once again? Soaking him in warm water daily isn't doing the trick then.

 

[Yuk]

I think the All Living Things moss might be okay. I read some other leopard gecko owners using it, but to be honest I don't know what type of moss is in it. I tried to look on Petsmart's website but the picture was too small to see if there was an actual type of moss used in it.

I've read two inches somewhere, so I guess at least two inches. What I do is fill the moist hide up with just enough room for them to easily move around and move their head up without touching the top of the moist hide unless they want to climb out. Enough so that if they go in, they can easily stand up and get out.

 

[LostTogether]

It doesn't say about what kind of moss is used in it, but it looks like normal moss to me.

Should I not put a lid on the humid hide then? I was planning on cutting one of the sides out for them to climb inside (the longer side).

 

[Yuk]

You should put the lid on whether the lid is on the floor or on the top to help keep the moisture in. If you cut out a side for the gecko to crawl in, then you don't need to do anything special with the lid, just pop it on. Otherwise you can cut a hole in the lid and they will climb up and enter from the top. If the lid is on the floor it will keep the moisture in the container better than without a lid and just against slate or whatever substrate you are using. I can't at all because I use paper towel and it would soak it all up.

 

[LostTogether]

I made the humid hide. I just need to spray it and make room for it in the tank. Thank you!

 

[JIMI]

I'm not sure about that moss either. They sell sphagnum at most garden stores and garden centers of home improvement stores. I'd boil it before using it though. You can also just use eco earth coconut fiber. They come in compressed blocks. You could exchange the the moss for the eco earth and use paper towels in the meantime.

Put the probe directly on the floor. Was 94 the temperature of the air? Earlier I thought it was of the floor. Did you mean 84?

You meed a multivitamin with vitamin a acetate. What is the name and brand of your liquid vitamin? I'm uncomfortable with the use of that bulb 24/7 because they are constantly being exposed to the rays. It should only be an option. It is best to use a bulb that spends about a third of a longer enclosure with multiple hides so that they can escape the rays when they wish. Overexposure can cause eye issues as well. What did the vet say about his eyes? Yuk only uses a UVB bulb a few hours a day. Maybe you can use it that way instead.

You could be putting yourself at risk when you kiss your gecko so you may want to consider not doing that anymore!

I put the hole to my moist hide on the side of the container because my leo had trouble gripping the plastic to get to the entrance on top and would slip on occasion. Putting it on the side will probably giver your ill leo easier access. Edit: Oh no am I too late!? Oh well:roll:

Hornworms and silkworms have a lot of moisture. But dehydration usually requires medical assistance.

 

[Yuk]

You're welcome Good luck!


EDIT: JIMI is right on all accounts. Leopard geckos can carry salmonella, so kissing is not a great idea. Also, I think LostTogether did put it on the side from what I read, but I'm not sure. I was the one using it on the top.

About the UVB - I only have it on for 3 hours at the recommendation of reptile vet care sheets. My light covers the entire tank, so I can't have it on all the time. I have it turn on around 2pm and turn off at 5pm that way they get the morning and it is off by the time they wake up in the evening.

EDIT 2: Also, the reason I use UVB is because I do not supplement vitamin D3. It might not be a good idea to do both.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

I made the humid hide. I just need to spray it and make room for it in the tank. Thank you!

:banana:

Some people use sphagnum moss for the warm moist hide. Others use paper towels that are wet, but squeezed out completely.

How about making at least one warm DRY hide for the warm end?

Place the probe of the digital thermometer directly underneath the warm DRY hide right on the floor of the enclosure. 94*F is a little too hot for the probe temperature. You want 88-93 F. Get a Lutron dimmer/rheostat from Lowe's or Home Depot ($12) to tweak the temperature of your overhead bulb.

 

[JIMI]

You're welcome Good luck!


EDIT: JIMI is right on all accounts. Leopard geckos can carry salmonella, so kissing is not a great idea. Also, I think LostTogether did put it on the side from what I read, but I'm not sure. I was the one using it on the top.

Oh I see:lol:
About the UVB - I only have it on for 3 hours at the recommendation of reptile vet care sheets. My light covers the entire tank, so I can't have it on all the time. I have it turn on around 2pm and turn off at 5pm that way they get the morning and it is off by the time they wake up in the evening.

EDIT 2: Also, the reason I use UVB is because I do not supplement vitamin D3. It might not be a good idea to do both.

Yes, I'm a bit concerned that your leos may be getting too much D3. It's either use one or the other.

 

[LostTogether]

Well, I did say that I bought plain calcium for him that I'll be using from now on. The liquid vitamin that I'm giving him currently is Flukers.
Wait, I need to boil the moss that I just bought from the petstore?

The probe is 2 inches away from the bottom of the tank. It's currently reading 90F.

I have 3 hides for them now in the tank, so I think they should be fine. I don't trust the UVB light being off during the night, though, unless I'm awake :\ It makes me nervous.

I've been kissing my geckos ever since I first started keeping them. It's hard not to kiss a pet you love. Except I don't do that to my snake or turtle.

I'll stop using the Calcium with the D3 then and use the plain calcium. Would that be better?

Also, my current tank setup: The heat lamp is in between the log and the moss hide and the cool side, there is a rock with the water dish.

I feel so bad for Porkchop now. He has his head laid right on the water dish, sleeping. :\

 

[Yuk]

Yeah I think it would be better to continue using the plain calcium if you are using UVB. It's easy to overdose the vitamin supplement.

Check out this picture of a typical gecko enclosure (some may argue on the size, but what I am pointing out is the location of the hides) http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd247/jakemyster44/DSC_1021-1.jpg

Since I can't see you enclosure, I am letting you take a look at this to get an idea of whether what you've got setup now seems adequate to you. It's fine to have additional decor, but it is important that you include the hides. If you've got that, you are on the right track. I hope these changes help him feel better

 

[LostTogether]

I have the humid hide between the two other hides. Is that okay? I usually put the day heat lamp on the left side and the night lamp on the right side.

Is fixing the enclosure and changing his diet all that I can do for him?

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Well, I did say that I bought plain calcium for him that I'll be using from now on. The liquid vitamin that I'm giving him currently is Flukers.
Wait, I need to boil the moss that I just bought from the petstore?

The probe is 2 inches away from the bottom of the tank. It's currently reading 90F.

I have 3 hides for them now in the tank, so I think they should be fine. I don't trust the UVB light being off during the night, though, unless I'm awake :\ It makes me nervous.

I've been kissing my geckos ever since I first started keeping them. It's hard not to kiss a pet you love. Except I don't do that to my snake or turtle.

I'll stop using the Calcium with the D3 then and use the plain calcium. Would that be better?

Also, my current tank setup: The heat lamp is in between the log and the moss hide and the cool side, there is a rock with the water dish.

I feel so bad for Porkchop now. He has his head laid right on the water dish, sleeping. :\

Place the probe of the digital thermometer directly underneath the warm DRY hide right on the floor of the enclosure.

I don't trust the UVB light being off during the night, though, unless I'm awake

I don't understand your /\ statement about UVB.

Do you know how to care for hornworms and silkworms?

 

[LostTogether]

Okay, I moved the probe.

And it just makes me feel like something would happen to him over night if I didn't have the UVB light on. When I'm awake and I turn it off, I always have to keep a close eye on him to make sure he's alright.
I usually feed them at nighttime also, so I have to keep the UVB light on so they can digest the calcium.

And not really. I noticed you did give me a link to a thread about hornworms, but I didn't get around to checking it.