Geckos with shaky legs! PLease help!

xcbx2

New member
A few weeks ago I noticed my geckos (I have 5) were shaking their legs, almost in spasm. At first I didn't think much of it because of the fact all of them seemed to be doing it so I thought it was just some sort of behavioural trait. However as I watched more I realised that the extent it happened seemed to vary between them. A couple only seem to have a leg twitch every now and again whilst one of them seem to have whole body spasms quite regularly. At this point I got straight on here and had a look around.

What seemed to come up was it could be MBD arising from a calcium deficiency. I have the 5 geckos spread over 3 tanks and each tank has a shallow pot of calcium in it, as recommended on care sheets. Their food is also coated in calcium powder and also vitamin powder. I didn't really know how else I could introduce them to anymore calcium?

They're still all shaking so I would like some help please! As I've been watching them more I think I've noticed them becoming slower and I don't think their legs look that strong, they seem to be low to the tank quite a lot but I don't know if that's just me being paranoid now. They all seem to be continuing to eat, poo and shed well though and I would say they all look healthy.

Here is some information about them and their viv:

Leopard Geckos
Various morphs
2 males, 3 females
All born in September 2014

Spread over 3x 20 gallon vivariums

Substrate: Vinyl

Under tub heat mat used. Temp 88 on the warm side and about 74 on the cool side. I use no lighting.

They get a varied diets. Their staple items are crickets and mealworms but they have had calci worms when I've been able to get hold of them and also have waxworms and fruit grubs as treats. I feed them every other day, they often have about 5 of whatever I'm feeding them at a time.

Each of their vivarium's have 4 hides in, a moist and a dry, on each temperature gradient although I actually find they often sleep outside the hide. The viv also contains a shallow water dish and the previously mentioned calcium dish.

Any advice much appreciated!!!!
 

acpart

Well-known member
Here's a place to start:
It's probably best if the hot side floor temperature is in the low 90's but I don't think 88 is terrible.
Does your calcium or anything else you're giving them include vitamin D3? If not, they are not able to metabolize the calcium.
If they are getting vitamin D3, I guess it could be possible that they're getting too much calcium. I say that cautiously because there's a lot of talk about geckos getting too much calcium, but I haven't really seen anything definitive about symptoms of too much calcium.

Aliza
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Aliza ~

You may find post #96 in my Leo Caresheet, a lengthy quote from Hilde, a good read on the effects of too much calcium.

In part:
"It's a well known fact that too much Vit D3 and/or Ca can cause 'reverse' MBD. Dusting with D3 can cause problems, you might not realize you're giving too much, or too little. A young, growing, leo will show the signs a lot faster than an adult. Give too much D3, the Ca gets leached out of the bones. Don't give enough Ca, or D3, and again, the bones suffer. If letting them self-dose with Ca improves the situation, then obviously you're not doing something right. No gecko should have to lap up Ca to get enough. Something is off in the Ca : D3 ratio.

Even just a couple of licks of Ca can supply a heck of a big dose of it. Consider a tongue full of Ca for a hatchling, compare that to a human adult getting a lick of Ca the same 'size'. That would be like a tablespoon of Ca. Have you ever had that much Ca daily, or weekly, in one sitting? I bet not. That much would be the equivalent of several weeks' worth of Ca for you. Yet we don't think there's anything wrong when we let the geckos dose themselves with that much? The amount the gecko licks would coat the inside of the intestines and hinder absorption of other nutrients, like D3. If by any chance the gecko is getting too much D3, licking the Ca by the tongue full will actually prevent it from absorbing the excess D3, making it look like the gecko needed more Ca to fix the problem, when it actually used the Ca to stop the excess D3 from being absorbed."
 

xcbx2

New member
Thanks for the replies. They do get vitamin D3 so it could be that its too much calcium. I'm relieved as I suppose that's easier to regulate than too little! I'll continue to dust their food but I'll remove the calcium pot and monitor the situation.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Thanks for the replies. They do get vitamin D3 so it could be that its too much calcium. I'm relieved as I suppose that's easier to regulate than too little! I'll continue to dust their food but I'll remove the calcium pot and monitor the situation.

You are most welcome.
  • What brand of calcium with D3 are you using?
  • How often do you dust?
  • Did the calcium pot contain calcium with D3?
  • What do you feed the crickets and the mealworms?
 

LEOPARD1

New member
Remember Hilde's post is an OPINION only. D3 must be Combined (in some fashion) to absorb Calcium but top Breeders and Hobbyists alike keep a dish of Calcium and Vitamins (containing D3) inside the enclosure for their LG's showing no I'll effect for decades.

Unfortunately on this site you will see some hardcore "dusters" and well I am the only one so far who has vocally supported a dish of Vionate and Osteoform ratio 1:3.

Im sure there are other enthusiasts that dont "dust" but drama is drama and never fun.

We all know the old saying about Opinions;-)
 
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Hilde

Administrator
Staff member
Remember Hilde's post is an OPINION only.

It's not just my opinion. It's a known fact that too much, or too little Ca, Vit D3, and even Vit A, can cause problems. I did not say you can't use Ca, D3, or whatever else. I said too much can be a problem just as too little can be, and they're hard to tell apart just by looking. It needs diagnostic tests to determine which one you're dealing with. My info just gave a quick rundown of what can happen.

Unfortunately on this site you will see some hardcore "dusters" and well I am the only one so far who has vocally supported a dish of Vionate and Osteoform ratio 1:3.

Remember, that would be your OPINION, not everyone else's.



This is an article Dr. Lopez, D.V.M. posted in the Chameleon Journals forum in April 2006. He does refer to chameleons, because that's the species the forum was dealing with, but the general info applies to other animals, and even humans.

I copied the info,and tried to get to formatting to a decent readable form. The WayBackMachine loses some formatting, making it a bit awkward to read. I hope this is close enough to be understood. No changes to the info, just the paragraphs and spacing.


The Chameleon Journals

Vitamin D3 and Calcium:
by Kenneth Lopez, D.V.M.

Here are the players: 1. Calcium 2. Vitamin D 3. Parathyroid Hormone 4. Calcitonin

Calcium: Calcium is very poorly absorbed through the intestinal mucosa, as are most bivalent cations. When there is excess calcium in the diet much of it binds with phosphate and forms insoluble compounds which are excreted in the feces. Everyone should be aware of the need for calcium in bone formation and muscular contraction, reproduction, etc. (life in general). Too little Calcium causes, among other things, tremors, tetany, and death. **Too much Calcium causes muscles to become sluggish and weak. It has cardiac effects as well as causing obstipation and lack of appetite due to decreased contractility of the intestinal walls.

Vitamin D: Vit D has the job of increasing calcium absorption from the intestinal tract. It also affects both bone deposition AND bone reabsorption. Vitamin D3 is NOT the active substance for these effects. Vit D3 (Cholecalciferol) is formed in the skin by the ultraviolet rays from sunlight. Cholecalciferol is converted by the liver to 1,25 Hydroxycholecalciferol, which in turn is changed through reactions in the kidney to the ACTIVE form; 1, 25 Dihydroxycholecalciferol. **The creation of Hydroxycholecalciferol is limited by a feedback loop, which inhibits the transformation from D3 to Hydroxycholecalciferol. **Vitamin D3 is stored for a long time in the liver, while Hydroxyholecalciferol lasts only a short while. *Now the kidneys take effect and change Hydroxy to Dihydroxycholecalciferol. Remember this when we discuss renal damage. Without the kidneys there are NO active vitamin D effects that can occur. Dihydroxycholecalciferol has its effects upon intestinal epithelium and calcium absorption primarily through the creation of a calcium-binding protein. ** Calcium-binding protein remains in cells for several weeks after the 1,25 Dihyroxycholecalciferol has been eliminated from the body.

Parathyroid Hormone: This hormone causes rapid absorption of calcium salts from the bones in response to decreased calcium in the blood. It also causes phosphate to be lost in the kidneys. Parathyroid Hormone takes many hours to take effect and has a long-term effect.

Calcitonin: Calcitonin DECREASES blood calcium ion concentration. It works very quickly, within minutes. Consider it the opposite of Parathyroid Hormone. **Calcitonin has its greatest effect upon young, rapidly growing animals. **An increase in plasma calcium concentration of about 20% causes immediate two-to-three fold increase in the rate of secretion of Calcitonin.

Here is the Meat and Potatoes folks!
Back in the 70's and 80's it was very common to see reptiles come in with curved spines, multiple fractures, muscle tremors. Supplements were not commonly used and deaths were common and reproduction of many species was limited. This disease, Metabolic Bone Disease (secondary nutritional hyperparathyroidism) was one of the most common problems seen. Once MBD became a household word and supplements such as Miner-all and RepCal became available MBD, thankfully, became less common.

Now we are seeing another distressing trend. I commonly have chams brought in with obstipation, decreased appetites, wasting away, and severe dehydration despite vigilant misting or watering. A common finding in the husbandry goes as follows: " I take great care of her. I water her frequently. I dust her crickets every-other day with Calcium Powder with Vit D3 alternated on off days with a multivitamin powder. When she started becoming depressed I started giving her Neocalglucon and later my vet gave me Baytril". If you only knew how common this scenario is from my perspective it would frighten you.
My question is this: Are we over-supplementing our chams?

Here is my reasoning behind the question.
1. Excess calcium causes muscles to become sluggish and weak. It causes decreased appetite and causes obstipation (intractable constipation) due to decreased contractility of the intestinal walls.
2. Excess Vitamin D actually causes ABSORPTION of bone. It actually mimics hyperparathyroidism.
3. Vitamin D causes calcification of bone. Excess Vitamin D causes inappropriate mineralization of organs such as the kidney or soft tissue. Excess Vit D3 and Calcium has been implicated in mineralization of large blood vessels, causing cardiac disease.
4. If we fry the kidneys with excess Vitamin D we cannot get the active form, 1,25 Dihydroxycholecalciferol. Of course, there are many other problems that come along with fried kidneys.
5. The body will only allow so much Hydroxycholecaliferol before the conversion of Vit D3 in the liver is stopped. What happens to the excess Vitamin D3? It is stored in the liver doing no good but potentially causing problems in the future.
6. If the Calcium-binding proteins remain in the cells for weeks after the 1,25 Dihydroxycholecalciferol is gone, why are we redosing two or three times a week?
7. When we over supplement our baby chams with Vit D and Calcium, Calcitonin is secreted which has the job of DECREASING serum calcium. This effect is much more important in young animals. Their young, growing bones are more easily affected by subtle changes in nutritional balances.

SUMMARY: I get way too many consults and patients with signs I feel are suggestive of chronic over-supplementation.
It is another case of "A little is good, so a lot must be better" It is not known how much supplementation, if any, is needed for different species. In monkey medicine, for example, Old World monkeys do not need Vit D3 supplements at all while New World monkeys NEED Vit D3 added to their diets. Can we meet their needs better by better gut-loading of our insects and by using a variety of insects in conjunction with proper lighting? Then we can supplement with much less frequency.
Please see Susan's Cricket food recipe. I think is well balanced and I have a few of her babies which are remarkable in their health.

`````````````````````````````
In case you're curious, the cricket food recipe he mentioned can be found here: ChamownersWeb Gutload
I use it, as well as a similar one, rotating between the two of them.
 

LEOPARD1

New member
I've read the article.

Apples and Oranges.

If we go on one article by one DVM we enter dangerous territory.

You are correct about many things. I intensely read most of your posts and have learned a lot from you. I dropped everything went deep into keeping HOTS and never imagined I would own a Leopard Gecko. I appreciate all the info people like you, Elizabeth and Aliza provide....

It does boil down (for now) to opinions and preferences though. My opinion just differs from yours:)
 
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kholtme

New member
Steve, Hilde is not posting her opinions, she is posting facts. Facts go a lot farther than opinions. You are always bashing on other peoples "opinions" but most the time they have facts to back up why they do it that way. You never have any facts to back up what you say, besides the fact that Rom Tremper does it. And i bet that he leaves calcium in his racks because he has to many animals to dust every single insect, not because its the best for them. And if he writes anything saying its okay, i wont believe him because he is trying to sell a product.

Everyone can make their own decision on how they want to raise their animals, but it seems every time some RECOMMENDS something, you're the first person to step in and tell them that their way is wrong and yours is so much better, but you never have facts to back it up, when most others do.
 

LEOPARD1

New member
It really boils down to interpretation. Yes the article breaks down precisely what the vitamins do. The conclusion is still an opinion. It also had a shameless promotion of a friends cricket diet of sorts at the end.

I doubt Ron Tremper has time to do the specifics he probably has the money to validate scientifically why "dusting" is a waste of time and that keeping supplements in a cage is no less harmful, Hell, so do I but that would be a waste of time.

As for "Bashing" I will post what "Bashing" is in a Reptile Forum. You probably weren't around to be an avid customer of a operation in Florida that went down in flames for good reasons. The rhetoric used during its demise on Reptile Forums...That was "Bashing".
 

xcbx2

New member
•What brand of calcium with D3 are you using?

I use the Komodo dusting powder

•How often do you dust?

Every time I feed them which is every other day

•Did the calcium pot contain calcium with D3?

The calcium pot contains pure calcium. I did originally put D3 in there but read somewhere it should just be pure so I changed it

•What do you feed the crickets and the mealworms?

I feed them a mix of bug grub bought from the reptile shop and fresh fruit/ veg
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Maybe your total supplements are too high since you are using Komodo IDP as well as Bug Grub? If your insects and worms get Bug Grub with veggies all the time, try reducing the actual Komodo dusting.

Consider a good dry diet like Bug Grub as the primary source of vitamins and calcium. Then consider dusting as a secondary source.

This one: Komodo Premium Leopard Gecko Dip (Insect Dusting Powder) 75 g (Pack of 2): Amazon.co.uk: Pet Supplies?

I suggest comparing that to Repashy's Calcium Plus. I like and use Zoo Med's plain (no D3) Reptivite multivitamins and Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3. Posts #24 and 29 following my Leo Caresheet compare D3 and vitamin A levels in those.

At the current time, many leo keepers do not recommend keeping any powdered supplement in the cage. There is always chance of overdose, even with pure calcium carbonate. Did you see Hilde's comments above?

Click: http://www.pro-rep.co.uk/food-supplements/bug-grub? Some veggies are much better than others in helping achieve the recommended calcium and phosphorus ratios.

Click USDA foods link for calcium and phosphorus ratios: http://ndb.nal.usda.gov/ndb/search/list
 
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