my leo hasnt pooped in about a week and is lethargic...

[Zux]

That's a cool setup if i add one more cool hide how do you think my setup would be doing. Ive read that the red heat lamp isn't the best option for a heat light because the geckos see red. Is this true ?

It is true that they can see red and I personally feel any of those colored lights contribute to stress on some level. Heating must come from two places - below via UTH and if necessary to maintain warm enough air temps (will vary based on where you live) a CHE, this is a ceramic heat emitter which works just like the heat lamp but without any visible light, just warmth.

I would advise you keep a dry warm hide + moist warm hide and one dry cool hide at a minimum and you should be good to go.

Great work so far on making the changes suggested by others I promise you that your gecko will be much better of for it :yahoo:.


- Shane

 

[schaffier58]

So i was looking up ches and could you recommend me a good one to purchase? Im trying to make it the best i can in her tank because i dont want to lose her too.. and thank you im glad i found a forum site that has this many people willing to offer information on just about every question inhave and im extremely grateful.

 

[Yoshi'smom]

Glad to help!
Zoo Med makes quality CHE's and Clamp lamps. I'd recommend them.
Not sure what mine is. I've had it forever. They (nearly) never burn out and you don't have to worry about replacing them like those dumb red or blue bulbs. I used those for a few other reptiles in the past and they never seemed to last.

 

[Zux]

As Kelly correctly says Zoo-Med make good products, I think the key is to ensure the dome is large enough in diameter to ensure heat is distributed properly and you create a warm 'zone' as distinct from just one spot getting very hot.

A 10 inch diameter dome is a very good investment and its also worth nothing having a CHE will require you to grab a second thermostat to control it also, the expense now will serve you and your pet well for years and years to come.

You will find the wattage of the CHE more important than brand in many cases as they are all very similar in construction. For example in my 36x18x18 terrarium I use a 150 Watt for that size but if your setup is smaller in dimensions and/or its warmer where you live you may well find a 100 Watt or even smaller sufficient.


- Shane

 

[JessJohnson87]

Also make sure that the bulb housing on the dome is ceramic, a heat emitter will melt plastic faster than you can snap your fingers and the smell is terrible.

 

[schaffier58]

I have a 150watt bulb in my 55gal 38x18, putting a heat pad with a temp timer under her warm side tomorrow

 

[JessJohnson87]

You're set up looks good, just scrolled back to the picture. I had carpet on the cool side of my tank until he started using that side to poop on so I changed it to tile. I'm glad she's starting to become more active but I would still take her in to see a good reptile vet.

 

[schaffier58]

Cool and i do have an appointment set up for Monday afternoon. I'm thinking of making get cool moist hide out of a Tupperware container i was wondering how i should go about darkening the container so not much light pulls through it.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

As Kelly correctly says Zoo-Med make good products, I think the key is to ensure the dome is large enough in diameter to ensure heat is distributed properly and you create a warm 'zone' as distinct from just one spot getting very hot.

A 10 inch diameter dome is a very good investment and its also worth nothing having a CHE will require you to grab a second thermostat to control it also, the expense now will serve you and your pet well for years and years to come.

You will find the wattage of the CHE more important than brand in many cases as they are all very similar in construction. For example in my 36x18x18 terrarium I use a 150 Watt for that size but if your setup is smaller in dimensions and/or its warmer where you live you may well find a 100 Watt or even smaller sufficient.


- Shane

Another CHE detail: the actual length of your CHE. When my Pearlco 100 watt CHE burned out last Spring I had to go hunting for a new bulb. I discovered that some CHEs are too long for my Flukers 10 inch diameter dome, stuck out, and touched the screen top! During my test run, the new bulb actually melted some plastic off the wire screen. :yikes: (smoke) Glad that I was right there.

I decided upon PetSmart's All Living Things brand 150 watt CHE on a Hydrofarm. It is just the right length.

 

[JessJohnson87]

Um, you could use some Krylon spray paint that adheres to plastic, just give it about 48 hours or so to gas off. The original moist hide I made for Ziggy has rocks glued to it but he ended up not using it so I just changed it to a regular container, for some reason he likes having a clear moist hide and dark dry hides....weirdo. Or you could tape paper towels to it, that way if it gets wet it won't be a big deal.

 

[schaffier58]

So elizabeth i read on your signature that you say no calcium powder inside of the vivarium? are you stating not to put any bare powder inside of the tank with my leo? One of my breeder friends had told me it was a good idea to do because if they begin to lack calcium they would to lick it a couple times, but i want your input on it.

 

[schaffier58]

Ahbh good idea jess im really glad i found this site all of you have been so helpful.

 

[JessJohnson87]

I try and we all do :biggrin:

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

So elizabeth i read on your signature that you say no calcium powder inside of the vivarium? are you stating not to put any bare powder inside of the tank with my leo? One of my breeder friends had told me it was a good idea to do because if they begin to lack calcium they would to lick it a couple times, but i want your input on it.

Yep, no plain calcium carbonate inside the enclosure as well as no D3 calcium powder or multivitamins. Even plain calcium can be overdosed and begin "to muck around with stuff".

I'm too sleepy right now to give you the whole story. Please scroll to posts 22, 48, 85, and 96---mainly by Hilde for the rationale. These posts follow my Leo Guidelines linked below.

 

[schaffier58]

Update : so i got her heat pas underneath her tank at 94. Have her a moist warm hide and a warm dry hide. I gave her a bath and she sipped some water out of the syringe i used. But she still doesnt want to eat anything, i even cut a cricket in half to try and get her to taste it and she wouldnT. I do have some carnivore care from my other gecko, should i start trying to feed her this because of her slimming ?

 

[JessJohnson87]

I would just to get something in her and then see what the vet says on Monday. It's good that she drank a bit of water!

 

[schaffier58]

She still has yet to have a bowel movement since i posted this, but there doesnt look like any blockage when i look through her stomach and theres no hard spots. Hopefully shell poop tonight because of this heat pad

 

[JessJohnson87]

Let's hope so!

 

[schaffier58]

Update : so she began a full shed today and already has gotten it off, and she also ate a full syringe of canivore care without needing to be force fed. Im having much more hope now. Im just afriad it looks as if she broke her leg somehow..

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Update : so she began a full shed today and already has gotten it off, and she also ate a full syringe of canivore care without needing to be force fed. Im having much more hope now. Im just afriad it looks as if she broke her leg somehow..

A broken leg is serious and requires vet assistance pronto. I'm wondering whether she is calcium-deficient.

Here's a picture of leo "Tripod" who has a broken leg and is currently recovering. A vet intervened and set the fracture first.



Good on the shed and the Carnivore Care. She must have been very hungry.