Pretty sure this is crypto - please help!

JTB

New member
I'll start from the beginning. I got Cleo, my female wild type leopard gecko in mid April 2014. From this time, she has always been a very poor hunter and has had a lower jaw which does not sit flush with her upper. She has always been a fussy feeder, very lazy and pretty slow - very stereotypical for a 'boring' lizard, but she's always had funny little quirks that make her so very interesting and has never been in the slightest unintelligent.

Anyway, two years ago she went into brumation. For four months she refused to eat anything, but she lost only about 2g and was happy and healthy in appearance throughout.

Last winter she did not brumate and in June 2016 I upgraded her wooden vivarium to a medium low Exo terra. This meant a downgrade from ceramic heat emitter to hear may but she took the change well.

After a few months she developed the habit of NEVER, EVER leaving her moist hide. She went off her food (the moist hide was on the cool end) until I asked about it on this forum and got instructed to move any moist hides to the warm end. This advice payed off - she began eating again.

Later last year I swapped her Exo Terra sand mat for a sterilised top soil, sand and limestone grit mix after being convinced of its benefits by nature-replicating, modern ideas by members that promote this and Arcadia Reptile's book 'Bio Activity and the Theory of Wild Recreation'. She took this change relatively well.

At Christmas I got a crested gecko, a 1.5g cutie harlequin called Splat. Splat's been fantastic - eating Repashy every single night and insects once per week with gusto I have never seen in Cleo. This outlined just how bad of a hunter Cleo was.

About two weeks ago Cleo stopped eating. I was not too disturbed - a funny eating gecko with a history of fasts going on hunger strike in the middle of winter doesn't sound very surprising. However, me being me, I wanted to get her out of what I thought was just brumation, so I left her without food for a while and then changed her heating element back to a CHE on Wednesday last week. The CHE saw amazing change - she was active, basking and responding to food! Not eating it, but attracted to 'food sounds' (basically the cabinet below her being scratched, opened and the sound of insects being dusted). I also sprayed her enclosure with Splat's sprayer, lightly, each morning, so simulate coming Summer; Pakistan and India, their native range, have monsoons throughout Summer.

On Saturday I cleaned her out. Fresh substrate, moss and everything disinfected. That night she was very responsive to food but still refused it and was more active than I've seen her in YEARS! She even reared up on her hind legs and looked out of the front, revealing a pearly white belly.

On Monday she yawned and I thought her tongue looked slightly whiter than usual - probably just a result of basking under her UVB (7% compact by Arcadia through a mesh top, I have been in contact with the company themselves and they have said that this is perfect) I had thought.

Yesterday I thought her tail looked a tiny bit different, but she had been basking and so active I thought it was nothing.

Today it noticed she wasn't right. She was sat in her cold end, unresponsive to a meal worm and any food sounds and I thought her tail definitely looked thinner and her feet, nostrils and ears looked white, so I took her out. Further examination resulted in a lack of responsiveness and a suddenly navy-blue, bruised looking stomach, nothing like the pearly white scales shown off on Saturday night. I knew she was ill at this point so weighed her: 65g, a whole 4-5g lower than what she was a week ago.

I am certain with all of these symptoms that she has crypto. I have took out any unnecessary decorations, boiled all of her hides, disinfected everything, removed all loose substrate and moist hide moss and replaced these with kitchen towel. Now I am waiting for the next appointment I can get with my vet and I don't think that there's anything else I can do.

I do not know how she has got it. I am scrupulously clean with my animals and I do believe that I am correct in saying that crypto is spread through water and faeces, neither of which have been crossed between my crestie and leopard. Splat's gloriously healthy, too - I'm sure he'd be dead in hours if he had crypto, he's so tiny. Are there any special measures that I should take to stop him getting it? Also, I have a corn snake - he can't get it, can he?

Finally, other than what I have done, is there anything I can do? I'm trying to do everything right and not let my attachment to Cleo get in the way; I can't help her if I just flop down and give up. Thank you very much for reading. If you have any tips to help me then I would be incredibly grateful for them and if you see any holes as to where I've let the disease get in then I'd like to be notified of them so I can avoid them in the future.

Fingers are crossed she makes it
 

acpart

Well-known member
I find it hard to believe, based on what you describe, that she has crypto. There are sometimes issues with the gecko that can't be known that lead to eventual death when they become too much for them. Just to be sure, feed and/or handle her last of all your pets and wash your hands well afterwards.
I recently went through something like this. I got a new AFT and kept her in quarantine for over a month. She was fine. After the quarantine, I put her in with my 1.1 AFT's and about a month later, they all started losing weight and having diarrhea. By the time I could get them to the vet, the females were dead (one died the night before the vet visit) and the male was severely underweight. The male was good enough to provide us with a fecal sample on the way to the vet. I was sure it was crypto but he was negative for crypto. It's taken a long time and some medication to deal with abdominal upset, but he has been slowly gaining his weight back over the past 6 months.

Aliza
 

JTB

New member
Last night before I went to bed I'm pretty certain she was trying to regurgitate. It was horrible to see; she has nothing to throw up so was just straining. I really don't want her to die. Crypto or not I just really hope I've caught it early enough.
 

JTB

New member
Went downstairs right after my last post. She was dead. I'm devastated; it's all happened so fast. I don't know what more I could have done. I don't even know what killed her but I'm not getting a PM so I guess I never will.

Now I have to keep Splat safe. I've threw out everything I can that Cleo has touched, am not going to handle any other reptiles for a good while and I'm disinfecting everything that can't be thrown away. Splat won't live five minutes if he catches it; he's 35 times smaller than Cleo when she was at her peak condition. The plan is to be as clean as possible: no contact, no indirect contact and removal of anything that could harbour disease. I'll boil all of Cleo's hides every night this week. Splat is NOT getting sick!
 

JTB

New member
I've been researching crypto this afternoon. It does sound as though your AFTs had crypto, despite the negative test result. According to the Internet, you can't find the disease unless it is in a certain stage of its life cycle and then it's still difficult to identify it. This is why it's called cryptosporidium - 'crypto' means 'hidden' apparently. This means that many geckos get sent away as being crypto-free when in fact that's what they have.

I'm trying to kill any remnants of the disease. I've boiled all of her things twice now and am going to boil everything again, then I'll leave it all out to dry for at least two or three months until I touch any of it again. Desiccation is supposed to kill it as is high temperatures so I SHOULD eradicate it this way. Ammonia is meant to be the most effective killer of crypto, so when I get a chance I'll use it on whatever I can.
 

Aimless

Super Moderator
her gecko would have tested positive if he had crypto. the time when the test is always reliable is when the gecko is symptomatic and the crypto is at a higher level in the body, leading to shedding in the feces.
 

JTB

New member
Ah okay, understood. Do you think I've taken enough precaution to prevent the spread of it to my crestie? At the weekend I'm going to wipe everything down with ammonia, then boil it again and leave it all to dry. I'll probably retire it all to the garage for a few months but do you think it's safe to go near lizards ever again?

I think that the crypto was a secondary infection. She'd never been a normal gecko and I got her at nine months old from a place where they did not care for the geckos very well; I didn't realise this back then. She's always had her jaw deformity and apparent poor eyesight so I think she's been malnourished as a hatchling resulting in MBD that was somehow corrected before she came to me. I think she never got back to health and it's eventually caught up to her, weakening her immune system to a point where disease could get in and finish her off. That's the only thing that really makes sense and explains everything - Splat could not have brought it in because he's have been the one to die first. What do you think?
 

Aimless

Super Moderator
I think boiling is weak, but better than just hot water. strong ammonia, concentrated by putting in a plastic bag and sealing it off so it will fume, are the best. also, ANYTHING porous will not ever really be cleanable. glass is good. repticarpet, tile, wood, fake plants, just toss.
 

JTB

New member
Understood. Honestly, I was going to get rid of the fake plants anyway; if/when I get another Leo (it's hard being without one already...) I'll probably do a bioactive setup for it. I'll toss Clei's piece of wood too, which is a shame because she only had one piece and it was a really cool shape. Are resin hides porous?

Thank you very much for your help by the way :)
 

JTB

New member
I've bleached averything now and threw out the wood. I have yet to clean her enclosure but I will wipe it down with bleach and ammonia if possible. As for the dome fittings, I'll wipe them with antibacterial wipes and put a CHE in each of them in turn; prolonged temperature above 65*C supposedly kills crypto and the domes got too hot to touch for long even when statted. I'm pretty sure I'm on the way to cleanliness now.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
I've bleached averything now and threw out the wood. I have yet to clean her enclosure but I will wipe it down with bleach and ammonia if possible. As for the dome fittings, I'll wipe them with antibacterial wipes and put a CHE in each of them in turn; prolonged temperature above 65*C supposedly kills crypto and the domes got too hot to touch for long even when statted. I'm pretty sure I'm on the way to cleanliness now.
I'm not sure how you are doing this.

Never mix bleach and ammonia. Toxic fumes will result!

Even ammonia will not kill 100% of the oocysts.

Edit:
Use ammonia to sterilize a glass tank. Bleach does not kill crypto. Toss the cage furniture.

"I want to explain the reason why I think it is best to just throw everything out. I have read several of these and the results varied.

---Thanks to cricket4u
 
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Drago

New member
I've bleached averything now and threw out the wood. I have yet to clean her enclosure but I will wipe it down with bleach and ammonia if possible. As for the dome fittings, I'll wipe them with antibacterial wipes and put a CHE in each of them in turn; prolonged temperature above 65*C supposedly kills crypto and the domes got too hot to touch for long even when statted. I'm pretty sure I'm on the way to cleanliness now.

A quick note for your personal health and well being, DO NOT EVER mix ammonia and bleach as it causes a reaction which releases toxic fumes which can seriously harm, or even kill you! I don't want to sound rude, just want to make sure you stay safe while keeping things clean!

At this point, it honestly might be more worth it to throw away all her old items, including her tank, and just buy new. This eliminates all chances of catching something by 100% and it will save you loads of time and effort
 

JTB

New member
I was not mixing ammonia and bleach! I was planning to bleach her things and then use ammonia on them on a separate occasion and then not let any of her things go near a reptile for at least twelve months.

It sounds like I have to throw everything away... I will chuck the hides and bowls etc (after bleaching a lot of the paint came off and even though family members say they don't I think they look a bit naff) but must I really chuck the tank? It cost £70; quite a bit! Also do I have to chuck the domes, CHE and thermostat? The thermostat was £50 on its own so I'm kind of reluctant to get rid of it and one of her domes and CHE haven't even had a week's use out of them.

I'm not sure if I said this earlier; sorry if I have! I think Cleo was dying anyway in hind sight. In the past three months she only ever used one of her hides (her moist hide) and a lot of her feeding vigour had left. She never really had any feeding vigour to start with. This seemed to be typical of brumation and up until Monday I had not noticed any decidedly negative things; she was maintaining a constant 70g which I measured every three days or so and her colour was nice and bright. It was so sudden that she took ill - literally hours. I've always believed that she was mistreated as a hatchling (jaw never fitted straight, incredibly lazy even for a leopard gecko, insanely picky about food and rarely showed much interest in it) and I have came to think that she must have had some sort of deficiency or cancer that finally caught her and let in the secondary infection that finished her off. There was no diarrhoea and she never reached the emancipated state typical of crypto. I'm not sure what it was but this is how I think she came to die; what do you think?
 

JTB

New member
Just realised you said I can use ammonia to sterilise the tank; I'll do that tomorrow when I get chance.
 

Drago

New member
I was not mixing ammonia and bleach! I was planning to bleach her things and then use ammonia on them on a separate occasion and then not let any of her things go near a reptile for at least twelve months.

It sounds like I have to throw everything away... I will chuck the hides and bowls etc (after bleaching a lot of the paint came off and even though family members say they don't I think they look a bit naff) but must I really chuck the tank? It cost £70; quite a bit! Also do I have to chuck the domes, CHE and thermostat? The thermostat was £50 on its own so I'm kind of reluctant to get rid of it and one of her domes and CHE haven't even had a week's use out of them.

I'm not sure if I said this earlier; sorry if I have! I think Cleo was dying anyway in hind sight. In the past three months she only ever used one of her hides (her moist hide) and a lot of her feeding vigour had left. She never really had any feeding vigour to start with. This seemed to be typical of brumation and up until Monday I had not noticed any decidedly negative things; she was maintaining a constant 70g which I measured every three days or so and her colour was nice and bright. It was so sudden that she took ill - literally hours. I've always believed that she was mistreated as a hatchling (jaw never fitted straight, incredibly lazy even for a leopard gecko, insanely picky about food and rarely showed much interest in it) and I have came to think that she must have had some sort of deficiency or cancer that finally caught her and let in the secondary infection that finished her off. There was no diarrhoea and she never reached the emancipated state typical of crypto. I'm not sure what it was but this is how I think she came to die; what do you think?

If the tank costed that much, keep it, just make sure you disinfect it well AND leave it to sit for several weeks/months before using it again just as a general precaution. The domes and thermostat and anything you really want to keep can be kept, but it will take lots of work to ensure it's safe again. I'm really sorry for the loss of your little one :( you tried your best to care for her and she must have appreciated that you gave her a nice loving home rather than a neglectful one where she could spend her last days. I remember my first lizard, a brown anole who was sickly from day one as well. He died just a few months after keeping him. I never quite knew what was wrong with him and honestly the only fairly accurate way to know would be a biopsy via the veterinarian, but this could be costly and isn't really necessary since you could just disinfect and move on. May your little one Rest In Peace and may your current gecko remain happy and healthy
 

JTB

New member
Thank you for your kind words. I'm really devastated over Cleo's death and it means a lot to me. Thankfully all of my other reptiles are looking good still; I've only been going near my crestie to spray and feed him and have only been in my corn snake's enclosure once to remove a massive poo. They're both either eating or showing food responses so I'm hopeful I've contained any disease.

Today I'm going to put all of Cleo's hides etc into storage. I'm not using them but family members are reluctant to chuck them right away so there's no harm keeping them for a short while. The enclosure I'm cleaning with ammonia and same for the thermostat probe.

I do have a little bit better news: we're already planning getting another leopard gecko. This one won't have anything at all of Cleo's apart from the thermostat that's getting ammonia-blasted, probably twice, like I said just before. This time I'm going to iron out every mistake I made with Cleo (as my first reptile, there was obviosly a massive learning curve when I got her three terra ago). I'm not allowing this gecko to get into the habit of only eating when I tong-feed, I'm not going to keep it in a box for handling because I'm scared of it running off (I done this for about six months with Cleo as I had been terrified of losing her... Sounds funny now!) and I'm not going to be terrified of loose substrates. I'm not taking any risks with disease spread this time either because it's going to get a two or three month quarantine time away from my other reptiles.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Thank you for your kind words. I'm really devastated over Cleo's death and it means a lot to me. Thankfully all of my other reptiles are looking good still; I've only been going near my crestie to spray and feed him and have only been in my corn snake's enclosure once to remove a massive poo. They're both either eating or showing food responses so I'm hopeful I've contained any disease.

Today I'm going to put all of Cleo's hides etc into storage. I'm not using them but family members are reluctant to chuck them right away so there's no harm keeping them for a short while. The enclosure I'm cleaning with ammonia and same for the thermostat probe.

I do have a little bit better news: we're already planning getting another leopard gecko. This one won't have anything at all of Cleo's apart from the thermostat that's getting ammonia-blasted, probably twice, like I said just before. This time I'm going to iron out every mistake I made with Cleo (as my first reptile, there was obviosly a massive learning curve when I got her three terra ago). I'm not allowing this gecko to get into the habit of only eating when I tong-feed, I'm not going to keep it in a box for handling because I'm scared of it running off (I done this for about six months with Cleo as I had been terrified of losing her... Sounds funny now!) and I'm not going to be terrified of loose substrates. I'm not taking any risks with disease spread this time either because it's going to get a two or three month quarantine time away from my other reptiles.

Among the other things you've shared, I think it's important for geckos to eat when the urge strikes even if it's from a dish! I'm NOT a fan of tong feeding.

Click: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm.../80614-bio-active-leopard-gecko-vivarium.html

It was a really big deal (and tough love) to get my 13.5 yo flier (Ptychozoon kuhli) to eat on her own. I had been handfeeding her. Even now she'd rather not. I use an 8 ounce clear glass bowl with vertical sides. After I place the cricket(s) inside I have to tap the bowl with the measuring spoon to get her attention.

She'd still rather "bite the hand that feeds". :razz: (And it's been a couple years.)

I don't think it's a vision issue.
 

JTB

New member
Thanks for those links! That's an awesome post. I'm really keen on the idea of bioactive setups but at least for now that's a plan for the future. I actually had it in mind to do one for Cleo around Easter time but that obviously won't be happening. Right now I'm going to go back to basics i.e. dietary supplementation with a new gecko (I plan to get one in a week or so and house it in a smaller enclosure with new hides etc just to quarantine it and grow it up a bit). On that topic, this is the dusting schedule I have planned:
Mon-Fri: Arcadia Calcium-Pro Mg alternating with pure calcium
Sat: Exo Terra multivitamins
Sun: Calcium + D3
This plan is set up for a gecko under six months of age that will eat every day. I'll obviously reduce the amount of feeding if it's any older but will keep the ratio of dusting ls the same. Pure calcium will be available 24/7 also.

In other news I got out the ammonia today. The Exo Terra got wiped down with ammonia, covered with cling film and then had boiling water put into it. This let the ammonia to fume and get everywhere. This process I then repeated but with bleach and after this I used reptile safe disinfectant and finally blasted it with water from the hose pipe. It's well and truly clean now I should think! I also wiped down the thermostat with ammonia twice and intend to do this a couple more times before I use it again. Hides and decor etc are awaiting disposal and I've already ordered replacements. The feeder insect cages also got boiled, bleached and disinfected (which kind of ruined my cricket keeper:() so they are clean. Now there is just the domes awaiting ammonia treatment and that's everything sorted. It's taken hours!
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Mon-Fri: Arcadia Calcium-Pro Mg alternating with pure calcium
Sat: Exo Terra multivitamins
Sun: Calcium + D3
You're welcome.

Are you looking for some feedback? What brand of calcium with D3? Instead of Exo Terra multivitamins I'd buy Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins without D3.

There is no need to dust with a plain calcium supplement more than 1x per week. Excess calcium in the digestive tract can hinder absorption of vitamins A and D. In fact, that might be too much plain calcium for your young gecko. A good multivitamin + calcium with D3 will contain enough calcium. Both Zoo Med products have excellent amounts of calcium as well.

Here's the schedule I recommend.

#124--Monthly Feeding & Supplement Schedule for leopard geckos 1 year old and younger

  • Use Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3 at 1 feeding per week. Lightly dust it on half the crickets or dubia, not every one at that feeding.
  • Use Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins without D3 lightly dusted on crickets or dubia at 1 feeding every other week or 2x per month. Maybe only dust half of the insects at that feeding.
  • Use some plain precipitated calcium carbonate (purer than oyster shell calcium). The NOW brand sold in health foods stores is ideal.
Feed finely ground Zoo Med's Natural Adult Bearded Dragon Food (or an equivalent high quality dry diet) 24/7 to the insects and worms to cover the basics. Add high calcium, low phosphorus veggies like collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, and pesticide-free dandelion flowers/greens in a dish off to the side for extra calcium and for moisture! Vary your leopard gecko's diet. Crickets, Blaptica dubia, hornworms, Phoenix worms, and silkworms are all good.

Nutritional Comparisons of Insects & Worms

Monthly Schedule for Leopard Geckos 12 months old and under
Week 1:
Crickets or dubia>Monday- Zoo Med D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets or duba>Tuesday
Mealworms>Wednesday
Crickets or dubia>Thursday
Crickets or dubia>Friday- plain calcium carbonate
Mealworms>Saturday
No food or free choice>Sunday

Week 2:
Crickets or dubia>Monday- Zoo Med D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets or duba>Tuesday
Mealworms>Wednesday
Crickets or dubia>Thursday- Zoo Med plain (no D3) ReptiVite multivitamins
Crickets or dubia>Friday- plain calcium carbonate
Mealworms>Saturday
No food or free choice>Sunday

Week 3:
Crickets or dubia>Monday- Zoo Med D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets or duba>Tuesday
Mealworms>Wednesday
Crickets or dubia>Thursday
Crickets or dubia>Friday- plain calcium carbonate
Mealworms>Saturday
No food or free choice>Sunday

Week 4:
Crickets or dubia>Monday- Zoo Med D3 Repti Calcium
Crickets or duba>Tuesday
Mealworms>Wednesday
Crickets or dubia>Thursday- Zoo Med plain (no D3) ReptiVite multivitamins
Crickets or dubia>Friday- plain calcium carbonate
Mealworms>Saturday
No food or free choice>Sunday

Week 5
Start the cycle over with week 1
 
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