Mealworms in fridge or not? Gutfeeding?

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chuk23chuk

New member
Okay so I've had my leopard gecko, Gus (Who I later found out was a girl) for a few weeks now. I've been feeding her exclusively mealworms since I got her just because they're easier and I don't really wanna mess with crickets. She seems to like them okay but I didn't realize you had to gut-feed the mealworms as well.

I'm going to start keeping my mealworms in a bucket with oats and carrots and such.

So my question is:

1. Should mealworms be kept in the fridge? I have read different opinions. If they are kept in the fridge their metabolism will slow so they won't be able to eat the oats and carrots that I put them in. If they are kept out of the fridge they will turn to beetles unless I buy and go through a 100 ct. of them regularly.

2. If I only have 1 leopard gecko and don't plan on getting any more animals that would enjoy such a worm, is it worth breeding the mealworms? If so, can someone give me a dumbed down simple version of the best way to do it? I'd rather not do this because I'm actually really busy and that's just another few tubs I'd have to take care of but if it's worth it then cool.


3. I gave her some crickets today and she seemed to like them: What's the best way to gut-feed crickets? I have 'cricket food' that I got at the store but idk if that's the same stuff. Also how long will a cricket live? For example I almost ordered like 1000 of them on amazon but idk if they're gonna die before I could feed them all to my gecko or what.


THANKS!
 
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PoppyDear

New member
Hello!

I think you may be a bit confused on gutloading and nutrition in general, this really helped me in learning how to gutload and why, I hope this helps!
•http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...emo-video-4-jan-2013-update-2.html#post371302

Mealworms are not the best staple diet. They are often times the cause of impaction if used too much, bad husbandry will contribute to this as well. Keep in mind you have to do what is best for the animal and not always necessarily what is most convienant for you. I strongly suggest you try some Dubia Roaches or crickets. Dubias are usually harder to find but they are more nutritional and much easier to keep and breed than crickets.
Compare nutrition here:
•The Most Complete Feeder Insect Nutrition Chart | The Reptile Report

1. All food you feed should be gutloaded. I honestly don't reccomend the fridge. It is too cold for them and you will notice a significant increase in deaths. It is too cold for them to move and much less eat. Instead you probably want to keep them in a normal container with an edible substrate and food to hydrate and gutload them further. They can be kept at room temperature as well. They will probably pupate and transform into beatles if they are large enough.

2. They will grow much faster in room temperature, so breeding is an option, it will save you money. The only expenses will be their food and containers, you only have to buy more if you run out of feeders until you get your cycle started up or need to refresh the genes in your mealworms. I spend 10 minutes max every other day to transfer beatles that have pupated and refresh and remove food. But I think it is worth the money you save, and good use of your beatles that will inevitably be produced if your mealworms are not kept in the fridge. I will leave a link below illustrating mealworm care and some tips on breeding.
•http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...mo-video-4-jan-2013-update-11.html#post434916

3. 1000 will probably die very soon, faster than you can feed off. They are canabalistic and you need to account for a 20%-25% loss in a little over a week but it depends on the care you provide. I really reccomend you order some Dubias off Amazon and give those a go. Cricket food from stores is also a no no unless it is a good brand, if you are talking Flukers, it is not. Here are some good cricket guidelines;
•http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...mo-video-4-jan-2013-update-12.html#post448826​

I hope this answers your questions, contact us if you have any more!
 
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chuk23chuk

New member
Okay thank you this was very helpful. Also for the record I do want to point out that I knew it was called gutloading and not gut feeding my mind was just in another place lol.

Thanks!
 
C

chuk23chuk

New member
How many do you think would be a good amount to buy? I'd like to get enoug to last for a while seeing as they have to be shipped to me. Will they breed and how long do they live? Should they be kept in the fridge (guessing not)?
 
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PoppyDear

New member
It depends on the size of crickets that you get, adults are usually classed as "large" crickets. They are the ones with wings and chirp (Males). If they are adults they will probably breed or have already bred/been bred with. However they will not lay eggs if they are not provided with a lay box.

Crickets are a hassle to breed, I have done it once but I did not like it. If you want more information on breeding them I can provide it!

Their lifespan is around 3 months from pinhead (newly hatched crickets) to sexually mature adults. But many will never make it to that age due to sickness, cannibalism, etc. If you buy a large amount use big enclosures with plenty of ventilation, food and egg flats/paper towel rolls for hiding places. When I was using crickets I bought almost 50 adults to last me 2 weeks, which I used to breed and feed. I fed 20 per week for 2 females. This accounts for times my geckos didn't want to eat the amount I gave them and at least 10 dying due to sickness or cannibalism. It just depends on your gecko, shipping is also probably going to kill more, I would get 100 mediums if you can, so they have time to grow and don't die as part of their natural life cycle as large or adults do. They aren't really going to be a diet that will last long, you are probably looking at buying more every 1-2 months assuming you don't breed. In a normal adult, normally fed 3×'s a week, 2 out of 3 feedings will be the staple while 1 out of 3 is mealworms and/or more variety of insects.

I hope that made sense! It is a tad bit confusing!

Have you considered ordering Dubia roaches? They have life spans of over a year, breed easily and are very nutritious! If you can find them locally, you can buy a few and try them with your gecko to see if it likes them. Then you could consider ordering online if you'd like!
 
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chuk23chuk

New member
Yeah I was actually asking about the roaches. My gecko is still kinda small. maybe a few months. I think I will order some roaches. They seem easy enough to gut load (a few orange/fruit vegie slices) and easy to maintain (maybe just two buckets you swap them between every few days to clean up their bucket). How many is too many to buy at once and how big of them should i get? The ones i found on amazon seem small enough (maybe half a quarter size). Will they breed?
 
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
chuk23chuk said:
Yeah I was actually asking about the roaches. My gecko is still kinda small. maybe a few months. I think I will order some roaches. They seem easy enough to gut load (a few orange/fruit vegie slices) and easy to maintain (maybe just two buckets you swap them between every few days to clean up their bucket). How many is too many to buy at once and how big of them should i get? The ones i found on amazon seem small enough (maybe half a quarter size). Will they breed?
Click to expand...

Roaches, like most feeders, need more than veggie slices. They require a nutritious dry diet 24/7. You'll need about 7 mature females and 4-5 mature males to get started. They require some heat to breed. In "not too long" a time you could sell the excess or give it away.

I feed my Blaptica dubia finely ground Zoo Med's Natural Adult Bearded Dragon Food 24/7. They gobble it up!

ZM-76_Adult_Bearded_Dragon_Food.jpg

It also comes in 20 ounce containers.

Click here for pricing info: Reptile Supply Company - Sacramento, CA 800-750-9065 --"Wholesale Reptile Supplies & Feeders" Cricket Crack, Zoo Med Natural Adult Bearded Dragon Food, Superfoods ABCss: alfalfa meal, bee pollen, chlorella powder, spirulina powder, & strawberry powder

Check this out for the roach breeding setup I use.

Click: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...ckets-blaptica-dubia-hornworms-silkworms.html
 
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PoppyDear

New member
chuk23chuk said:
Yeah I was actually asking about the roaches. My gecko is still kinda small. maybe a few months. I think I will order some roaches. They seem easy enough to gut load (a few orange/fruit vegie slices) and easy to maintain (maybe just two buckets you swap them between every few days to clean up their bucket). How many is too many to buy at once and how big of them should i get? The ones i found on amazon seem small enough (maybe half a quarter size). Will they breed?
Click to expand...

Whoops, I appologize! Elizabeth is correct in regards to gutloading and breeding. You will need to purchase the mature ones for breeding such as those found here:
•https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D...=0Y22SSG0613QSV4B0TWT&dpPl=1&dpID=81R4ahI9iVL

The small ones will not breed until they are adults. Compare a quarter to your gecko's head and then decide if the roaches are appropriate. They should fit in the space between the gecko's eyes. The amount you order is dependant upon how many you think they will eat. I think this is a good deal;
•https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008...6_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6SVZF5H50BSNHWRES9QC

Keep in mind if you choose to breed it will take time for the babies to grow so you probably want to purchase feeders along with the breeders. Their enclosure doesn't need to be cleaned too often as they seldom die, the food is usually the only thing needing to be changed and refreshed. An UTH is a good source of heat since they dislike light.
 
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chuk23chuk

New member
Okay thank you! I will probably not breed them which is why I was being a little weird about the food and gutloading and such. I rent a house with 3 others and space is quite limited. Having the cage for Gus was even pushing it haha. Anyway I think I will buy the 200 Ct of the ones you suggested and then I'll put them in a bucket with some of that zoomed bearded dragon food as well as some fruits and veggies and just keep them like that and buy a new 200 ct when he's close to running out.
 
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chuk23chuk

New member
Okay I went and got a tote to hold the beetles. It is 16.26in W x 11.01 in D x 6.83in. H.


Is this going to be an okay size tote for them?
 
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
chuk23chuk said:
Okay I went and got a tote to hold the beetles. It is 16.26in W x 11.01 in D x 6.83in. H.


Is this going to be an okay size tote for them?
Click to expand...
With a container ONLY 7 inches high you'll need to use the lid, of course. Dubia need good ventilation. Carve out a large area from the lid. Silicon in fine mesh.

Place the egg flats vertically, back-to-back, then front-to front. Then their poop falls to the ground.

They hide in nooks and crannies of the egg flats. When I spray the paper towel, they come out of hiding. The overhead 15 watt bulb doesn't bother them while they're drinking.

I love the sliding screen tops! It's just me, I know. They can't muscle off that lid! :coverlaugh:
 
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Keith

New member
Elizabeth Freer said:
Roaches, like most feeders, need more than veggie slices. They require a nutritious dry diet 24/7. You'll need about 7 mature females and 4-5 mature males to get started. They require some heat to breed. In "not too long" a time you could sell the excess or give it away.

I feed my Blaptica dubia finely ground Zoo Med's Natural Adult Bearded Dragon Food 24/7. They gobble it up!

View attachment 42517

It also comes in 20 ounce containers.

Click here for pricing info: Reptile Supply Company - Sacramento, CA 800-750-9065 --"Wholesale Reptile Supplies & Feeders" Cricket Crack, Zoo Med Natural Adult Bearded Dragon Food, Superfoods ABCss: alfalfa meal, bee pollen, chlorella powder, spirulina powder, & strawberry powder

Check this out for the roach breeding setup I use.

Click: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...ckets-blaptica-dubia-hornworms-silkworms.html
Click to expand...

Sorry to dig up an old post, Elizabeth. I’m still trying to soak up info. I’m currently giving my Dubais repashy bug burger, super load and fluker’s cricket quencher. Do you think the adult bearded dragon food is better? Should I offer that as well to diversify their diet? I also started providing fresh food scraps that would normally have gone straight to the compost.

My girl is already soooo attached to her little lizard and now I’m even more afraid of doing something wrong!
 
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Keith said:
Sorry to dig up an old post, Elizabeth. I’m still trying to soak up info. I’m currently giving my Dubais repashy bug burger, super load and fluker’s cricket quencher. Do you think the adult bearded dragon food is better? Should I offer that as well to diversify their diet? I also started providing fresh food scraps that would normally have gone straight to the compost.

My girl is already soooo attached to her little lizard and now I’m even more afraid of doing something wrong!
Click to expand...
Relax. You've got this!

I've never tried Bug Burger or Superload (the gutload-only food). I moisten a double layer of paper towels for my dubia's moisture.

I used to use Albers All Purpose Poultry Feed as the dry diet for my crickets and dubia. Before that I used Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Diet. Fluker's HCCD is not very nutritious. Zoo Med's Natural Adult Bearded Dragon food is much better. I like the protein-to-fat ratio, the ingredients, and the fact that this beardie diet has a little vitamin A acetate (retinol).

Fresh food scraps are excellent. Keep Bell pepper and apple seeds out. That's a caution from Aliza.
 
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