This is going to be a long post so sit back and relax!
Heating
Firstly, no heat mats are ever set at a certain temperature. They will fluctuate in temperature, from the low 80s to the high 100s, neither of which are appropriate temperatures for your gecko. A thermometer is good! However it is essential that you have a
thermostat to control your temperatures. Here is the one I reccomend:
•Click:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=jumpstart+thermostat
A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health.
Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C):
•88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C)
ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
•no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C)
air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
•no greater than 75 F (23.9 C)
air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end
Water
Make sure that water fall is not increasing humidity beyond 50%ish. The water bowl is fine. Just make sure she can't hurt herself on the water fall by climbing on it and falling.
Diet
The diet is inadequate at the moment. A staple of mealworms is not the healthiest for her and might only add to her problems. I understand that if she is not eating crickets she has to eat something. However, I would still reccomend you try other, healthier insects often even if she won't eat them. Such as dubia roaches, crickets and supplimenting the diet with variety, hornworms, calci-worms, etc. Don't feed waxworms too often either, they are fattening and also unhealthy, she could use more healthy additions to her diet before adding in some waxworms.
Dubia roaches are much easier to care for and keep than crickets! I understand if you don't want them in your home, but they are not likely to escape at all, if that is what you are worried about. I commend you on working towards a more varied and healthy diet for your geckos, however!
Are you feeding dead food? Dry, dead crickets are lacking in nutrition and moisture on many points and often won't be eaten. Live food is much better! To solve your problem with free roaming insects that bite your gecko, leave them in for only 15 minutes and remove any uneaten. If they are too fast for her, pop them in the fridge for a minute or two to slow them. Use a better mealworm dish next time, Lee's mealworms dishes have worked well for me but there are also the round glazed ones at petshops that are sure to keep beatles from escaping if they ever do turn. (Keep in mind, if you see mealworm pupa, remove them to eradicate that problem, but you might remove uneaten so they don't die and you can keep gutloading them.)
Also, as a side note, please don't use neosporin next time your gecko has an injury, you are much better off using Silvadene cream.
Calcium
Would you mind sharing your suppliment schedule? What you dust with and when? I would reccomend removing the calcium dishes to avoid the chances of overdoses.
Wendy
She sounds like a very sweet gecko! I think the water bowl incident could have to do with hydration, impaction, shedding or the like. As long as all other husbandry is correct, which means some modifications to heating and diet as well as other things mentioned, and she exhibits no other symptoms I think she's fine.
However, those sounds she is making may be due to stress or the like. I still would reccomend limiting handling and contact from the other geckos in case something is truly wrong.
Winona
All the jumping sounds like she is scared and/or stressed, I can't judge not seeing it in person but falling and such can really injure her even if it is not jumping out of fear. Maybe handling on the ground or in the tank for awhile until she settles would be more appropriate?
Aso, please be careful of touching your face to your geckos, especially when she jumped in your mouth (Which I understand was not anticipated). Salmonella is found in roughly 70% of lizards, in their digestive systems which is normal for them and usually not harmful. However, as you probably know, salmonella is harmful to humans if contracted. So I stress washing your hands after you're done handling them and maybe limit the "nose kissing", which I have also done!
The biting is also aggression or stress-like behavior, maybe take a step back from taming to decrease this?
Waves
He is a gorgeous gecko! However tail waving doesn't sound that good, when does he exhibit this behavior? It is usually done when they are spooked, mating behavior or aggression. If it is done to your females, beware that he isn't trying to mate. Or since the genders are still iffy at this point (I will explain below) he may be aggressive towards another male if they are incorrectly sexed (I am not doubting you but it is a possibility, that is all!). If he is doing towards you, make sure he is not stressed or the like.
Baths are completely unecessary and stressful in my experience. I understand all geckos are different, but geckos are not suited to water whatsoever and the stress of swimming may be huge. Plus, water should not be simple bath water with all the chemicals and temperatures will have to be monitered throughout. I would only limit baths to when they have a bad shed or are constipated. If you feel they enjoy the baths over everything, heavily research appropriate water conditions and stress behavior of geckos so you can watch for it. Did you practice quarantine before handling together?
Quarantine Recommendations
Any new gecko should be quarantined
for a minimum of 90 days prior to introducing her/him to the other geckos in the same cage. That gives adequate time to check for parasites, cryptosporidia, and the beginnings of coccidia plus. 3-6 months of quarantine are recommended if your new gecko is imported or wild caught.
The quarantine area should be in a separate room apart from your established geckos. Stringent sanitation methods MUST be followed!
If you handle all the geckos together, be careful. The biting of one another isn't a good sign though it has stopped, their company might be damaging as well but I have seen people o it with no issue. I simply urge you to be careful. Make sure that all their habitats have the appropriate hides too, DRY cool hide, DRY warm hide, and MOIST warm hide.
They all need thermostats as well. Keep in mind, gender can only be identified if you know their age or incubation temperatures.
Sexing Leopard Geckos -- Leopard geckos become sexable at about 6 months old. Males can be distinguished from females by a distinct /\-shaped row of pores above the vent and by bulges below the vent. To see their vents and potential male pores and bulges
gently press their bodies up against the glass. They'll squirm if you try to turn them over.
•Click:
Sexing Leopard Geckos
A lot of their behaviors just sound very stressed to me, but again, I can only judge from what I have here. I hope I am not being too harsh either! Your family sounds as if they care for your geckos so much and I am so glad your wife got over her fear! I am only doing my best to help and sometimes I come off as abrasive, it is not at all what I mean! Your geckos sound very lovely as well as your family. ♡
Take a look at these helpful links!
•
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...emo-video-4-jan-2013-update-9.html#post425040
•
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...mo-video-4-jan-2013-update-13.html#post458330
anyway these are two of our babies and all of their haditats