DHP Instant Success

[SpottedDragon]

Nel's new cage got here over the weekend (finally!), and so far she hasn't laid anymore eggs and is starting to eat waxworms and hornworms.

Anyway, I set up the "hot" side of the cage with a 50w Arcadia deep heat projector over some dark slate rocks, and once it got up to temp she hasn't left! The thermostat controls it and keeps the air right at 88* but the surface of the rocks is right at 92* directly under it and dropping down to 88* towards the edges. She does seem to move to adjust where she wants to lay on a regular basis.
I don't know if this new heating is the reason she started eating again, but I was expecting such a big change to her environment would throw her off. She is now in a 48x24x18 animal plastics cage. I'll try and remember to get pictures soon.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/450442571596955653/885695368841547776/IMG_2905.JPG

 

[acpart]

She looks great!

Aliza

 

[MicheleVicchitto]

Nel's new cage got here over the weekend (finally!), and so far she hasn't laid anymore eggs and is starting to eat waxworms and hornworms.

Anyway, I set up the "hot" side of the cage with a 50w Arcadia deep heat projector over some dark slate rocks, and once it got up to temp she hasn't left! The thermostat controls it and keeps the air right at 88* but the surface of the rocks is right at 92* directly under it and dropping down to 88* towards the edges. She does seem to move to adjust where she wants to lay on a regular basis.
I don't know if this new heating is the reason she started eating again, but I was expecting such a big change to her environment would throw her off. She is now in a 48x24x18 animal plastics cage. I'll try and remember to get pictures soon.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/450442571596955653/885695368841547776/IMG_2905.JPG

Hi, if you don't mind, what type of thermostat are you using with the Arcadia DHP? I just got a DHP but don't want to use it until I have an appropriate thermostat.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Hi, if you don't mind, what type of thermostat are you using with the Arcadia DHP? I just got a DHP but don't want to use it until I have an appropriate thermostat.

I "think" a DHP could use a Herpstat dimming thermostat. Maybe an ON/OFF pulse thermostat would work just fine. Perhaps the only difference might be a shorter "DHP bulb" life with the pulse thermostat.

One key is having the DHP's wattage as close as possible to the heat level you need.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Nel's new cage got here over the weekend (finally!), and so far she hasn't laid anymore eggs and is starting to eat waxworms and hornworms.

Anyway, I set up the "hot" side of the cage with a 50w Arcadia deep heat projector over some dark slate rocks, and once it got up to temp she hasn't left! The thermostat controls it and keeps the air right at 88* but the surface of the rocks is right at 92* directly under it and dropping down to 88* towards the edges. She does seem to move to adjust where she wants to lay on a regular basis.
I don't know if this new heating is the reason she started eating again, but I was expecting such a big change to her environment would throw her off. She is now in a 48x24x18 animal plastics cage. I'll try and remember to get pictures soon.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/450442571596955653/885695368841547776/IMG_2905.JPG

Hi Spotted Dragon ~

We'd love to see leo Nel in her new environment -- a 48x24x18 animal plastics cage! Better now than never! :banana:

 

[SpottedDragon]

Hi, if you don't mind, what type of thermostat are you using with the Arcadia DHP? I just got a DHP but don't want to use it until I have an appropriate thermostat.

Sorry, it took so long, just saw this. I use the Herpstat EZ 2. It's the non-digital version. I use a temp gun to dial in the exact temperature. Just know that it takes a few hours for the thermostat to "learn" the new adjusted temperature when you change it - to the increase or decrease in heat won't be instant.''

Arcadia does recommend using a dimming proportional thermostat for these, as it takes a few min for the bulb to warm up and cool down, not as long as a CHE, but you would get more inconsistent temps with an on/off thermostat. The only issue with it that I have had is that the thermostat probe needs to be directly under the bulb for best regulation and very occasionally one of them will lay directly on the probe which makes the thermostat think its cooling. Luckily they don't sit there long and the EZ thermostats will alarm / error if the sensor is not receiving input (I think if it can't regulate temp with in a hour). Neither of mine has sat long enough on the probe to cause a spike in temps though.

 

[SpottedDragon]

Hi Spotted Dragon ~

We'd love to see leo Nel in her new environment -- a 48x24x12 animal plastics cage! Better now than never! :banana:

I also want to note that I put the wrong specs for her cage - its the T8 - 48x24x12, the snakes is the 18" high :/

This is the reptile wrack - Ball Python on the bottom, Nel in the middle, and Wyrm the male Leo on the top

https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/450442571596955653/988072455568498748/IMG_3484.JPG?width=505&height=673

Nel enjoying her DHP - she is out basking every few hours now, even during the day

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/450442571596955653/988072459330797638/IMG_3485.JPG

Just a description of set up for anyone that is looking at heat / light placement



Seeing how much Nel just loved it, I ended up getting my male one too. I have the same results with him, he's out more, basking more, and really seems to get a lot of use out of it. I may try one with the ball python eventually as well.

Right now she has an egg box with eco earth on the UTH since she's trying to lay eggs again. Otherwise this is just another hide (cool) as I don't keep the UTH on when she's not in egg-mode. The humid hide is from reptile basics and I love it ( https://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes/humidity-hut-medium-hide-box/ )
There is a damp rag on it right now because she's been sitting on top of the hide and basking and she was in shed last night, so just a bump up in humidity for her.

 

[MicheleVicchitto]

Sorry, it took so long, just saw this. I use the Herpstat EZ 2. It's the non-digital version. I use a temp gun to dial in the exact temperature. Just know that it takes a few hours for the thermostat to "learn" the new adjusted temperature when you change it - to the increase or decrease in heat won't be instant.''

Arcadia does recommend using a dimming proportional thermostat for these, as it takes a few min for the bulb to warm up and cool down, not as long as a CHE, but you would get more inconsistent temps with an on/off thermostat. The only issue with it that I have had is that the thermostat probe needs to be directly under the bulb for best regulation and very occasionally one of them will lay directly on the probe which makes the thermostat think its cooling. Luckily they don't sit there long and the EZ thermostats will alarm / error if the sensor is not receiving input (I think if it can't regulate temp with in a hour). Neither of mine has sat long enough on the probe to cause a spike in temps though.

Thank you for all the information.

I'm definitely pleased with the DHP. But currently I find that I need to keep both the DHP and the UTH on 24/7. I think I need to put something under the enclosure to prevent heat loss from below. And if I decide to switch to a more naturalistic enclosure, I'll probably need to either get a shorter enclosure (Donnie's is 18 inches high) and/or switch to the 80w DHP.

Donnie doesn't really come out to bask yet, but with the DHP, I am finding him to be more inquisitive.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Thank you for all the information.

I'm definitely pleased with the DHP. But currently I find that I need to keep both the DHP and the UTH on 24/7. I think I need to put something under the enclosure to prevent heat loss from below. And if I decide to switch to a more naturalistic enclosure, I'll probably need to either get a shorter enclosure (Donnie's is 18 inches high) and/or switch to the 80w DHP.

Donnie doesn't really come out to bask yet, but with the DHP, I am finding him to be more inquisitive.

Sorry if I already asked. How much substrate does Donnie have now? I'm not sure how fire-safe it is to use the Ultratherm heat mat underneath a substrate thicker than a slate cheese board (~1/4 inch thick).

A layer or two of corrugated cardboard underneath Donnie's 36 x 18 x 18 inch enclosure might insulate his enclosure JUST ENOUGH! IF not, you could also add that to the back glass. Styrofoam is also recommended. I don't know how they compare.

 

[MicheleVicchitto]

Sorry if I already asked. How much substrate does Donnie have now? I'm not sure how fire-safe it is to use the Ultratherm heat mat underneath a substrate thicker than a slate cheese board (~1/4 inch thick).

A layer or two of corrugated cardboard underneath Donnie's 36 x 18 x 18 inch enclosure might insulate his enclosure JUST ENOUGH! IF not, you could also add that to the back glass. Styrofoam is also recommended. I don't know how they compare.

Right now, Donnie is on slate cheeseboard and paper towels (since there were gaps with the cheeseboards). But since his enclosure is sitting on a wire shelf unit, I suspect we have heat loss from below. I have thin stick on floor tiles that I had picked up before I realized the glue could be a problem inside his enclosure, so they were never used. I thought perhaps I could put those on the shelf to stop some of the heat escaping. There would be about a half inch of space between the ultratherm and the tile being used on the shelf unit.

I'm hoping to get some new photos of Donnie tonight. He's definitely grown a bit since I got him and he has filled out. He has also gotten very inquisitive at night. He's fascinated by both cats and anything I'm doing.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

According to Google's "The Complete Guide to Cardboard Insulation"
Insulation properties of cardboard
Cardboard being a poor thermal conductor makes for a good insulator, which gives us the opportunity to put its insulation properties to good use. Corrugated cardboard boxes are used in packaging and shipping because of its low cost, which makes it even more desirable to insulate your windows or attic at a budget price. Moreover, cardboard boxes are abundantly available, so can be re-used for a few months, if not forever before dumping it out for recycling. You can also make do some corrugated cardboard structures to insulate your home or car.

Thermal properties of cardboard boxes
Thermal properties describe the rate at which the cardboard transfers heat. It turns out to be a good insulator because of the tunnel-like fluted structure of paper between two sheets of kraft paper. Cardboards are basically tightly packed fibers and its corrugated structure traps air in its little pockets. The R-value of the cardboard is somewhere between R-3 to R-4 per inch. It is typically because of the air pockets as air is not a good conductor of heat and takes time to acquire or release heat. So, in winter it can keep your room warm and in summer it will keep your room cool. We also have to have safe insulator which brings us to its igniting temperature; cardboards would ignite between 500 – 800 degrees Fahrenheit.

Cardboard has a low thermal conductivity which also makes it good at slowing down heat transfer. This makes cardboard a versatile thermal insulator which can be used in various applications.

I don't know whether your thin stick-on floor tiles provide any insulation.

Here's an image of 6 pieces of Flat, Stackable Slate that Etsy sells for $15.99. I found it on another leopard gecko group. If one stacks these pieces & tops them with larger flat slate to create a level basking surface, simultaneously one creates a warm cave directly underneath the basking area.

(click to enlarge)​

Recently a Reptile Lighting group pro made my day! He simplified one of his spreadsheets & created a more legible version listing only Arcadia's original 12 inch ShadeDweller with % mesh blockage at varying distances.

Original 12 inch ShadeDweller
7% Standard Output (or Normal Output)-T5
"Legible" version of Arcadia's 12 inch ShadeDweller (This looks much better on the internet with +/- enlarging capabilities.)



Original chart version
Includes Arboreal & Max higher-strength ShadeDwellers
(click to enlarge)​

 

[Blush50]

Nel's new cage got here over the weekend (finally!), and so far she hasn't laid anymore eggs and is starting to eat waxworms and hornworms.

Anyway, I set up the "hot" side of the cage with a 50w Arcadia deep heat projector over some dark slate rocks, and once it got up to temp she hasn't left! The thermostat controls it and keeps the air right at 88* but the surface of the rocks is right at 92* directly under it and dropping down to 88* towards the edges. She does seem to move to adjust where she wants to lay on a regular basis.
I don't know if this new heating is the reason she started eating again, but I was expecting such a big change to her environment would throw her off. She is now in a 48x24x18 animal plastics cage. I'll try and remember to get pictures soon.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/450442571596955653/885695368841547776/IMG_2905.JPG

She looks fit :biggrin: May I ask if you provide any heating at night? If not what is the average room temperature?

 

[MicheleVicchitto]

I don't know whether your thin stick-on floor tiles provide any insulation.

Here's an image of 6 pieces of Flat, Stackable Slate that Etsy sells for $15.99. I found it on another leopard gecko group. If one stacks these pieces & tops them with larger flat slate to create a level basking surface, simultaneously one creates a warm cave directly underneath the basking area.

View attachment 50488
(click to enlarge)​

Recently a Reptile Lighting group pro made my day! He simplified one of his spreadsheets & created a more legible version listing only Arcadia's original 12 inch ShadeDweller with % mesh blockage at varying distances.

View attachment 50487
Original 12 inch ShadeDweller
7% Standard Output (or Normal Output)-T5
"Legible" version of Arcadia's 12 inch ShadeDweller (This looks much better on the internet with +/- enlarging capabilities.)


View attachment 50486
Original chart version
Includes Arboreal & Max higher-strength ShadeDwellers
(click to enlarge)​

I've been looking at stable slate like that just for providing different levels for Donnie.

THe stickable tiles were going to just be under the entire enclosure to stop airflow (i.e., heat) from escaping through the wire shelf. But my UTH decided to die (not sure why it died so quickly - kinda sad). So, I got an 80w Arcadia DHP and am using that with the shadedweller and it seems to be working well.

Once my leg has fully healed from surgery so I can get around better, I'm probably going to see about setting up a more naturalistic environment for Donnie since I won't have to worry about heat getting through the UTH anymore.

I actually purchased a nice slate hide off of Etsy and he really seems to love it. He had a nice successful shed last night. I'll be double checking him to make sure he doesn't have any leftover shed stuck anywhere, but a quick look over seems to indicate he was completely successful.

I shared the attached pictures on Facebook, but just as a quick update on how he's doing:

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

I actually purchased a nice slate hide off of Etsy and he really seems to love it.

Look at how far Donnie's come. :yahoo: , Michele!

When you have a spare moment, please link /\ that slate hide you found on Etsy. I'd really appreciate it.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

She looks fit :biggrin: May I ask if you provide any heating at night? If not what is the average room temperature?

Hi Blush50 ~

For leopard geckos: As long as the ambient night room temperature = 65*F or higher, it's quite safe to turn off any enclosure heating during the night.

 

[MicheleVicchitto]

Look at how far Donnie's come. :yahoo: , Michele!

When you have a spare moment, please link /\ that slate hide you found on Etsy. I'd really appreciate it.

This is the one I got. Donnie really likes it. And because it is slate he was using it to help rub against during his recent shed (after "rearranging" his furniture on the cooler side while trying to rub against the simple black plastic hide).

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1178444676/slate-cave-hide-for-plecos-fish-shrimp?ref=yr_purchases

 

[Blush50]

Hi Blush50 ~

For leopard geckos: As long as the ambient night room temperature = 65*F or higher, it's quite safe to turn off any enclosure heating during the night.

I was just curious of how spotteddfagon personally kept them, but I appreciate your response. I noticed partially undigested food at times if no heat was provided at all at night. Perhaps because my house heater was set to 64f and I fed at night? Who knows right

 

[MicheleVicchitto]

I was just curious of how spotteddfagon personally kept them, but I appreciate your response. I noticed partially undigested food at times if no heat was provided at all at night. Perhaps because my house heater was set to 64f and I fed at night? Who knows right

I have a similar issue. We keep our house set very cool (63-64f) because of my husband's migraines.

What I've ended up doing is, during the day, I'm using the 80w DHP bulb and the Shadedweller light for Donnie's UVA/UVB needs, and then, at night, I switch over to just the 50w DHP. And, like you, we feed him at night after his Shadedweller is off for the evening. He's kind of funny about it because the minute the light goes off, he comes out and sits demandingly next to his food dish (and he's gotten very good at giving me the great big Puss In Boots eyes from the Shrek movies on nights when he's not supposed to be fed).

He's becoming a lot more active and adventurous now that I'm using the DHPs instead of the UTH.

Funny note: Now that we are settling into a pretty good routine, Miss MooMoo, my cat who has the gecko watching obsession, knows that, once the light goes out, Donnie comes out and sits by his food bowl and, on feeding nights, chows down. So right when it's time for the light to go off, she comes running into my bedroom, leaps onto the chair I have near his enclosure and settles in for "Donnie TV".

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Our time is precious!

 

[SpottedDragon]

I keep the DHP on 24/7, and right now with her gravid I keep the small UTH under the nest-box on. The DHP's are not necessarily designed to maintain temps in the whole cage, its more of a "beam", 92* directly under it and dropping to room temps at the furthest point away from it. I don't use much a/c so my house temp is 77*-80* depending on the heat outside, so I don't have much need for more heating.

But with the house set at 66* in the winter and just the DHP for heat and nothing additional, the cool end of the cage furthest away from the heat rarely drops below 70*. I have low wattage che's on hand for really cold periods when the house drops into the low 60's. I don't let their cages drop below 68*.

I will mention that the Animal Plastics cages are 1/4 pvc and extremely well insulated. I don't think the DHP would work in larger glass tank quite as well for a sole heat source in the winter in a cold house.