New leo owner, need help on how to raise my baby right please! Handling, feeding, etc

Kagisnad Malchure

New member
Update, 29.12.13:
I filled out a questionnaire:
http://pastebin.com/ih2zDxpA

Hello, I am new to the forum and to leopard geckos, and I want to make sure my baby leopard gecko Loki grows up well.
Right now he's about 3 months old I believe, but I don't know for sure. I got him over a week ago, and so far this is how I've been raising him him:

First day:
First day, my tank wasn't ready as the money for it didn't get transferred to my account soon enough, so I didn't have anywhere warm to put him, I only had a tiny glass aquarium. He was very restless in the aquarium, and his body was very cold, so I scooped him up in my hands. He didn't try to run away. He walked across my hands for a little, but then he just rested on my lap because it was warm. I kept him in my lap for almost and he fell asleep too. I've read that baby leos are very skittish naturally so this surprised me, though he probably just needed the warmth and rest from the journey to my house.

Tank:
I finally got the money that evening and got his tank, a Resun PT 400 as that was the only suitable one they had. Currently, his tank has paper towel flooring, a water bowl, a calcium bowl, a feeding bowl [which I might remove for reasons explained further down], a cracked coconut [with a small hole for him to go in], and a felt, long pencil case, unzipped halfway. I'd rather get creative with my hides, and I have to because I live in Romania, where reptiles aren't widespread pets so the pet stores don't have many reptile things, so no hides for sale. I got my leo from a local breeder. For heating, I have a heat pad on 1/4 of the tank, and a lamp heating 1/2 of the tank [heat mat is in that 1/2, as well as the pencil case]. His tank is placed on my desk, which is the only big and stable enough free surface in my room. He gets to see me all the time.
Update: I got a cut flower pot I put upside down as a moist hide. I use squeezed out paper towels as substrate for the pot.

Feeding:
As of now, I place several mealworms in a food dish and leave them there for him to hunt. I used to place them on the substrate, however they'd find ways to get under it.

Handling/bonding:
This is where I'd need the most help, or advice to know if what I've been doing is alright.
After I got him the tank, for two-three days he was very skittish indeed so I didn't try to handle him, instead I'd just put my hand in the tank. He'd stare at it for a bit then walk to a different part of the tank. However, after that I tried approaching my hand to him from underneath and scooping him up. He squirmed around of course but I could pick him up on my hand and take him out. After that, he'd only normally walk across my palms, sometimes stop, then walk again, but he didn't try running quickly, bolting or jumping. I'd also let him explore my desk, and he'd walk around. I try to be very gentle when handling him.
Now, during the past three days after he shed, I handled him like that [place my hand in the tank a little, then approach him and scoop him up] around the time I fed him too. He doesn't show signs of stress [he eats well, his colors aren't dull, he doesn't hide too much, only when he sleeps, and I don't think this would be a stress sign, that he walks and climbs around in his cage, onto the coconut and around him] as far as I know. His daily routine is to sleep almost all day [sometimes he'd get out to walk 'round a bit then go back to sleep, mostly in the coconut], then at night I reckon he walks about, but I can't know since I'm sleeping.
Can I continue to handle him like this and he'll turn out a calm adult, or am I missing something and in fact stressing him and not seeing it? Any other advice you have?

Some more info:
I also should mention that he never hissed at me, tried to bite me, or the like, when trying to pick him up. He only did that twice when I needed to get him out of his hide. Once because I needed to wash the pencil case, he first made a short sneezing noise, but I had to get him out because I hadn't washed the pencil case before he got in it, I just needed a quick hide, and it was used before, so I tried to push him again, then he screamed for a bit and I just left him alone until he got out by himself even if I was worried there might be something harmful in the case, even if it was emptied beforehand. Second time, I was cleaning his tank and I had to clean his coconut too because he shed some skin on it. I tried to gently push him out of the coconut when he did that short sneeze so I just left him in and plucked the skin away from the coconut inside the tank.
Oddly he doesn't mind being touched on the head. Even in his tank, if I gently pet his head, he doesn't run away.
If you want a more detailed explanation of the handling process I have:
First I place my hand in the tank for about 2-3 minutes. Then I gently approach him, when my fingers touch his belly he usually tries to squirm away, but if I follow him with my hand I can pick him up and take my hand out of the tank without him trying to jump off. Then he starts walking across my palms for a bit, then stops for several seconds, walks again [in a normal pace, not running], and I let him walk on my hands and sometimes on the desk too. Usually when he is on the desk and I put my hand in front of him to pick him up, if he stops in front of it he usually takes a different track to avoid it. So far he never tried bolting off my hand, but he also never really stopped and relaxed for longer than half a minute or less.

Sum up of my questions:
Can I continue to handle him like I described?
What other objects should I place in his tank?
What morph could he grow up to be, or just a normal? Here's pics I posted! http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...rd-gecko-photo-mini-contest-5.html#post406554
Anything else you spotted and I should be aware of?

Thank you, your advice is priceless for me, as I want my baby to grow up a healthy, calm leo. I read up on all the material I could find on the net but there's nothing better than a direct answer on my exact situation.
 
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Teach Izzy

New member
Hi! Im also a newbie. In my opinion the way you are handling your gecko is fine. I handle mine in much the same way. My gecko seems to enjoy being handled and often will walk toward my hand.

Try feeding more crickets or dubia roaches than mealworms, they don't have a great nutritional value. I'm not sure about the kind of worms you currently have.... sorry about that. Maybe contact the breeder and find out where they get their feeders :)
Melissa
 

Kagisnad Malchure

New member
I don't have any means of acquiring crickets or dubia roaches as feeders in my city. The breeder I got my leo from uses mealworms too.
I'm beginning to be more and more convinced those are common housefly larvae, maggots. From a fishing shop. Would they be safe to feed?

I read the care sheet, however, besides general care things, it didn't provide answers to my questions, which are subjective to my situation.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
I don't have any means of acquiring crickets or dubia roaches as feeders in my city. The breeder I got my leo from uses mealworms too.
I'm beginning to be more and more convinced those are common housefly larvae, maggots. From a fishing shop. Would they be safe to feed?

I read the care sheet, however, besides general care things, it didn't provide answers to my questions, which are subjective to my situation.

Hi ~

A warm welcome to Geckos Unlimited where geckophiles flourish.

Did you see this very leo care sheet: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...-macularius-demo-video-4-jan-2013-update.html?

It contains a huge amount of details, including supplements and all. Beyond the actual caresheet are about 70 posts regarding different aspects of leopard gecko care. It is frequently updated when I discover more information.

Don't know anything about the worms you picture.

I would suggest making a humid hide out of any opaque plastic container. Directions can be found right in the care sheet.

1) Can you share a picture and the dimensions of your tank?
2) What type calcium in the bowl in the cage?
3) Other calcium with D3 and multivitamins?
4) Temperature gradient in tank? Are you matching this:

Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the UTH on 24/7. Can turn off overhead heating at night.

There are certain standard recommendations for setting up and caring for leopard geckos. Within that care sheet you will find many proven methods.

Here's one of them:
Leopard Gecko Setup - YouTube
 

Kagisnad Malchure

New member
Thanks Elizabeth. I did read the caresheet this morning before making that post, I skimmed a few parts but I read the rest. I don't think I missed anything.
A humid hide is on its way, yes, however, judging that my leo had no trouble shedding at all, it shouldn't be an urgency, should it?

1) Resun PT 400, http://www.tommiland.eu/pic_zbozi/14190715.jpg the specific dimensions aren't anywhere.
2) Lactic calcium. There is no such thing as "reptile calcium" within a 200km radius. They were tablets that I grinded down to a very fine powder. I put it in a small bottlecap, just covering the bottom of it. He licks it but doesn't exaggerate, so I think he's fine.
3) D3 I still need to look for unless this natural liquid, sugar free one is safe to put a few drops in his water bowl.
4) Yes the temps are within those norms.

The caresheet said nothing about handling though.
 

Conched

New member
What city do you live in ? I would be happy to help you locate some suitable food items for your leo.

If we can't find anything local you may have to have some food items shipped to you.
 

Kagisnad Malchure

New member
I'm from Romania. I don't think shipping or pointers would be available. The breeder himself said he could ship some mealworms over and I'd breed from there on.
 

Conched

New member
I'm from Romania. I don't think shipping or pointers would be available. The breeder himself said he could ship some mealworms over and I'd breed from there on.

Here is a link that will help get you started raising mealworms. You can find other useful info on the Gecko Time blog as well.

How to Breed Mealworms | Gecko Time

Is you Leo currently eating the larvae you are feeding him now ?

I know you are interested in answers concerning handling your leo but that should be the least of your concerns, your husbandry practices are unclear and if you do not find suitable food items and supplements etc... you wont have anything to handle.
 
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Kagisnad Malchure

New member
Yes he is eating well, the mealworms I'm feeding him, 'round 5 every night. I don't worry about the "husbandry practices" because I know they are okay, and almost identical to the breeder's, whom I trust as he has been in the business for quite some time.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Thanks Elizabeth. I did read the caresheet this morning before making that post, I skimmed a few parts but I read the rest. I don't think I missed anything.
A humid hide is on its way, yes, however, judging that my leo had no trouble shedding at all, it shouldn't be an urgency, should it?

1) Resun PT 400, http://www.tommiland.eu/pic_zbozi/14190715.jpg the specific dimensions aren't anywhere.
2) Lactic calcium. There is no such thing as "reptile calcium" within a 200km radius. They were tablets that I grinded down to a very fine powder. I put it in a small bottlecap, just covering the bottom of it. He licks it but doesn't exaggerate, so I think he's fine.
3) D3 I still need to look for unless this natural liquid, sugar free one is safe to put a few drops in his water bowl.
4) Yes the temps are within those norms.

The caresheet said nothing about handling though.

Yes he is eating well, the mealworms I'm feeding him, 'round 5 every night. I don't worry about the "husbandry practices" because I know they are okay, and almost identical to the breeder's, whom I trust as he has been in the business for quite some time.

You are welcome. Thanks for replying so quickly :). Good that the temperatures are within the norms posted above and that your leo had no trouble shedding.

Having a humid hide 24/7 is important for hydration as well as to facilitate easy shedding. Wet paper towels that have been squeezed out is one substrate you can use for the humid hide.

Sorry that there is no handling information in that caresheet. Perhaps I should add some ;-). Let your leo get used to you gradually and let the leo be the judge about frequency and duration. Some leos do not mind handling, whereas others are forever skittish.

How does lactic calcium compare with calcium carbonate? What does your leo breeder use for calcium, calcium with D3, multivitamins?

In the USA we have a NOW brand plain calcium carbonate that is human grade. Fine for our geckos as well.

One popular brand in the USA is Zoo Med's Reptivite with or without D3. Zoo Med's Reptivite also contains vitamin A acetate important for eye and skin health. Zoo Med also makes Repti-Calcium with and without D3.

Is is possible for you to order those online via Amazon.com or some such source?

Is it possible for you to get a powdered calcium with D3 to lightly dust? To be safe I would only give him fresh water. I would not place any liquid or powder in his water bowl.
 
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Kagisnad Malchure

New member
Alright, I'll fashion him a moist hide as soon as I can.
"Let your leo get used to you gradually and let the leo be the judge about frequency and duration. Some leos do not mind handling, whereas others are forever skittish."
This where I'm not certain, the gradual part. As I've said in my original post, it doesn't bolt or keep trying to run away if I pick him up [which I can do with minimal squirming], so I can handle him daily, but even though he appears so okay with it, I'm just not sure if it might affect him in the long run.
I believe my breeder has access to reptile calcium with vitamin D3, but it's a local shop in his city, which is about 150km away, it wouldn't be too easy to get to that shop myself. I'm not sure how does lactic calcium differ, my breeder said it's okay and I just wanted to double-check here. The lactic calcium is human-grade, meant for babies I believe, like the D3.
I'm afraid ordering them might pose shipping difficulties and ridiculous prices. I'm not in the best financial state at the moment, I can't afford expenses that can be avoided. [This is a temporary state due to unexpected events, no need to give me the "don't get a gecko if you can't afford to keep it" talk] However I might be moving to the breeder's city and have access to more stores in the following year, so this calcium is temporary anyway.
I don't know if I could get calcium WITH vitamin D3. I'll have to look around better.
Alright, I won't drip the D3 in his water bowl. Would it be okay to drip it on the powdered calcium or is that a no-no too?
 

cricket4u

New member
For the sake of your leo, please follow the caresheet. Handling not only can cause stress, but cause digestion problems as well. It will be best to handle your leo as little as possible.

calcium lactate- 13% elemental calcium

calcium carbonate- 40% elemental calcium
 
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cricket4u

New member
Their digestive enzymes are mainly heat dependent, therefore they need to spend a good amount of time on that UTH. Regurgitation has occurred by handling the gecko right after meals. The room temperature is ideal for us, not them. Every time you take them out, you are forcing their body temperature out of range.
 

Teach Izzy

New member
UTH should be 88-94 right... Well average skin temperature for a human is 91 so that puts it right in the middle of the ideal temp range. And they don't eat 24/7. So even if it our bodies weren't 91 it would only be harmful just after eating... Not your policy of totally hands off.
 

cricket4u

New member
As an ectotherm, they must thermoregulate completely(whole body). They must be able to choose the temperatures as needed. They are also much slower metabolically. Perhaps it's beyond your comprehension. You can do as you please with your geckos.

Not your policy of totally hands off.

It will be best to handle your leo as little as possible. There's a difference.

The only policy I have is to treat your reptile like a reptile and give it the respect it deserves. I was speaking to the OP and you asked me a question.
 
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Teach Izzy

New member
You know I think that your condescending, know it all attitude should be banned from this forum. I don't like that you think you are the expert on all things reptile. I know a great deal
About reptiles and their need to thermoregulate. I kept an iguana to the ripe old age of 20 so I am not an idiot as you imply. 10-15 minutes of holding a gecko cannot possible kill them or vets, books and blogs would all say dont ever handle them. You happen to be the only person that I have ever heard that has this attitude.
You are quite a jerk with your high and mighty comments to people about buying air conditioners and chastising someone of they can't afford something right at the moment for their gecko. You don't know about peoples lives or about what emergencies come up. And when you become a herpetologist or reptile specialist with some credentials then you can tell people things are too advanced for them to understand.
 

cricket4u

New member
You know I think that your condescending, know it all attitude should be banned from this forum. I don't like that you think you are the expert on all things reptile. I know a great deal
About reptiles and their need to thermoregulate. I kept an iguana to the ripe old age of 20 so I am not an idiot as you imply. 10-15 minutes of holding a gecko cannot possible kill them or vets, books and blogs would all say dont ever handle them. You happen to be the only person that I have ever heard that has this attitude.
You are quite a jerk with your high and mighty comments to people about buying air conditioners and chastising someone of they can't afford something right at the moment for their gecko. You don't know about peoples lives or about what emergencies come up. And when you become a herpetologist or reptile specialist with some credentials then you can tell people things are too advanced for them to understand.



You know I think that your condescending. Thank you for stating I think. It makes all the difference. Reading text can be misleading.

You are the one who jumps in everyone's thread to ask me questions while I'm trying to provide advice. If it was your own thread, I would understand and respect your wishes.

And when you become a herpetologist or reptile specialist with some credentials then you can tell people things are too advanced for them to understand.


You have no idea who is behind the the usernames.

Your reply to me~ You as well do not know who is behind this user name.

You judged me, I did not judge you.

10-15 minutes of holding a gecko cannot possible kill them - Show me where I stated something against it?

You are quite a jerk with your high and mighty comments to people about buying air conditioners and chastising someone of they can't afford something right at the moment for their gecko

Proper temperatures are important for their well being. I'm sorry that you do not understand. If I can not afford to provide and house my reptiles properly, I would find them someone who will. From the beginning I made sure to save money on a separate account and have carecredit for emergencies. One should always be prepared ahead of time.

Please show respect to the OP and drop this conversation.
 
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